Jump to content

John H.

Members
  • Content count

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About John H.

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/07/1954

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    To piss everyone off before I'm dead!
  • Yahoo
    Yeah, I've been called that.
  • Jabber
    Only when I'm drinking.
  • Biography
    Life long pain in the side of brain dead liberals!
  • Occupation
    Retired Teamster / Disabled Vet

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ozarks, Missouri
  • Interests
    Old trucks, older Harleys, tack driving rifles, my old lady, my kids, my grand kids, and cold beer.
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge B3B pickup, 2001 Road King, 2002 Electra Glide, 1947 Knucklehead

Converted

  • Location
    Missouri Ozarks
  • Interests
    Getting all of my outstanding projects completed.

Recent Profile Visitors

322 profile views
  1. 12 volt conversion wiring diagram

    I appreciate the input and I am going to start laying out a materials list for what I need. Tom's Engine Barn appears to be a good choice to start and I found some other good info and sources of components, as well. As just an F.Y.I., I happened across Vintage Auto Garage and they carry a 6 to 12 volt conversion kit http://www.vintageautogarage.com/1947-55-Chrysler-6-to-12-Volt-Conversion-Kit-p/c4755k.htm. I would imagine the folks on this forum have the knowledge to put the parts together a bit cheaper but the info may still be usable? Their site also offers an e-mail advice link on doing the conversion http://www.vintageautogarage.com/v/vspfiles/files/Free 6v-12v-report-10.14.pdf?inf_contact_key=c526d0954042977fff5e9e1e06e82d5bce6c735d478817390861cbcdfae8632a I am going to stick with cloth covered wire for this project and will replicate the gauge of the wire I am replacing. As has been stated here in these posts I don't expect the rewire to be rocket science and, you all are right, it is the best way to lure the gremlins out of the beast. The roads here in the Ozarks are just awesome and I want to get my truck up and running so I can enjoy them while I finish turning out a couple of bike projects I've been neglecting. A plastic wiring harness on the truck would get me there, possibly a bit cheaper and quicker, but I am hoping that in another couple of years I'll have the desire to do a frame off resto on this truck. I have seen the work some of you guys turn out and can only wish I could be as talented. When I do turn my evil eye to my truck I'll feel better knowing that I have already done the wiring the right way. I appreciate the help, guys. John
  2. Wiring Harness

    Bobacuda, Was the $270.00 you spent for a complete kit, wires only, wires and connectors, or what? It sounds too good to be true as everything I see with cloth wiring comes in around the $800.00 mark. Thanks in advance for a reply. John
  3. 12 volt conversion wiring diagram

    I am still confused as to how to start diagnosing this issue? Mr. Coatney got me to thinking that pulling the ignition switch and checking terminals would be a start. I was working on the theory that flipping the battery ground may correct the problem but I don't want to blow any of the gauges by chasing a hunch. I have nothing good to say about the guy I bought the truck from and know for a fact that any work he did was just enough to get it running to get rid of it. No sweat, though, it will get straightened out.
  4. 12 volt conversion wiring diagram

    Ron, Thanks for the link. I am looking for the cloth covered wire and other components necessary to create a clean and safe 12 volt system. The only change I may be looking at would be an alternator, I believe? Don, Technically Sir, you are correct. Logically, I took the easy route and I am a cad.
  5. 12 volt conversion wiring diagram

    Hey Ron, By the way, nice truck! John H.
  6. 12 volt conversion wiring diagram

    Thanks for the reply, Ron. I kind of figured something was with the ground, but wasn't willing to just start taking chances with the wiring being what it is. I also appreciate the compliment regarding the bike and I have what I need to wire that. I am looking for the wiring components for the old trucks. Thanks again. John H. I've got a couple of questions if anyone is still following this post? The wiring on my 53, 3/4 ton is shot to the point of being a fire hazard. It is no surprise to me as it was something I noticed when I looked the truck over before I purchased it. What is kind of strange is that the truck was supposed to have been converted to a 12 volt system and had a 12 volt battery in it. Fortunately, there is a battery disconnect below the driver's seat, which I use in conjunction with disconnecting the battery after I occasionally start and run the vehicle. Brakes and some other issues have kept me from getting it out on the road since I brought it home over a year ago. Regarding the wiring. This truck has a positive ground system. Being as it is converted to 12 volts should it be a negative ground? When I first got it I noticed that the radio was in the "on" position but did not work. When I turned it "off" the tubes lit up and I got some static. The same with the ignition switch. Turning the switch off and hitting the floor starter starts the truck. Turn the switch on on the truck shuts down. I get it that the ignition switch may have been incorrectly wired but that doesn't explain the radio, at least not to me. Gauges? I don't know what to believe with them and would like to locate the gentleman here on the forum that rebuilds them for when I get my 4-wheeled buddy rewired. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I am looking at here? Rewiring, my last issue. Thanks to input I've garnered from folks on this forum I have my shop wood / coal furnace up and running. Thanks to all who added input. My immediate project is a rewire on my 47 Knucklehead project. It is a project I have to finish up here, and though the wiring is not as involved as a 53 pickup I have no qualms about tackling it. That said, the Knuck's wiring is a cloth covered kit which pales in comparison to the cost of that of a pickup. What are the best suppliers out there for sourcing the cloth covered wire, terminals,
  7. 12 volt conversion wiring diagram

    I've got a couple of questions if anyone is still following this post? The wiring on my 53, 3/4 ton is shot to the point of being a fire hazard. It is no surprise to me as it was something I noticed when I looked the truck over before I purchased it. The truck was supposed to have been converted to a 12 volt system and had a 12 volt battery in it. The quality of this conversion is questionable to me. Fortunately, there is a battery disconnect below the driver's seat, which I use in conjunction with disconnecting the battery after I occasionally start and run the vehicle. Brakes and some other issues have kept me from getting it out on the road since I brought it home over a year ago. Regarding the wiring. This truck has a positive ground system. Being as it is converted to 12 volts should it be a negative ground? When I first got it I noticed that the radio was in the "on" position but did not work. When I turned it "off" the tubes lit up and I got some static. The same with the ignition switch. Turning the switch in the off position and hitting the floor starter starts the truck. Turn the switch in the on position and the truck shuts down. I get it that the ignition switch may have been incorrectly wired but that doesn't explain the radio, at least not to me. Gauges? I don't know what to believe with them and would like to locate the gentleman here on the forum that rebuilds them for when I get my old blue buddy rewired. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I am looking at here? Rewiring, my last issue. Thanks to input I've garnered from folks on this forum I have my shop wood / coal furnace up and running. Thanks to all who added input. My immediate project is a rewire on my 47 Knucklehead project. It is a project I have to finish up here, and though the wiring is not as involved as a 53 pickup I have no qualms about tackling it. That said, the Knuck's wiring is a cloth covered kit which pales in comparison to the cost of that of a pickup. What are the best suppliers out there for sourcing the cloth covered wire, terminals, relays, and other components one needs to build their own harness? Thanks.
  8. I need parts washer thoughts?

    Thanks! I appreciate the responses. John
  9. Hey all, First off, my shop is of all steel construction and is 50 x 30' in diameter with 12' walls and a 16' roof ridge. I am in the process of installing my heat source which is a new US Stove wood and coal burning furnace. Ventilation wise I have 2, 10 x 10' overhead doors. One door at each end of the shop. I also installed 8, 4 x 4' slider windows when it was built. Now comes my question. I would like to add a parts washer to my equipment list. I'd like your thoughts on solvent versus aqueous washers? I have used solvent parts washers where I worked and am familiar with them, but with a wood stove in play I am trying to get opinions on the water soluble cleaners so I don't have to worry about flash points. Should a solvent based washer be a problem if it is located at the opposite end of my shop from the heat source, I use it with doors and/or windows cracked, and I close it up after use. TP Tools has the sink type unit mounted on top of a 30 gallon drum which I hope is compatible with both types of cleaners? I have just spent the last couple of hours on the internet and have only succeeded in getting a headache. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks, John
  10. So this is what being fired feels like

    Congratulations on the new journey, Mark. John
  11. Tire Info!

    Hey, this is why I come to you guys and why I like this forum so much. I am never too old to learn and I appreciate the advice. My last B-series truck was a pristine 1949 panel truck I purchased when I got out of the Army in 1974. I am always kicking myself for getting rid of that truck and, I guess, I am trying to make amends by making my current truck the best example I can. That said, I am open to suggestions on either 15 or 16" rims. I've not bought any tires just yet. I have a local guy who took the cab and bed from an old B-model Dodge truck and is mating them to a Ford F150 with a 460 mill. He is left with some parts I may get to purchase from him including a couple each of original 15 and 16" rims, frame, running engine, 4-speed trans, etc. I am not sure of where the 15's on my truck originated as they do not resemble the originals from his. To be able to get my truck to where I can get it out and enjoy it I have to add tires, go through the brakes that were supposedly just done before I purchased it, and happened to go out on the maiden voyage home, and a rear end seal. Replacing the seal is my push to replace the rear end gearing, as well. From past posts on this forum I am pretty comfortable with the idea of the 235's as it seems a few other guys were running and advocating them. They'll get me on the road and free up shop space as long as they are safe, and they are cheap at under $100.00 a pop. But, I am open to suggestions. I figure I'll drive it this way for a couple of years and as I learn more from this site I may do a complete resto.
  12. Tire Info!

    I erred in posting that the tires are a P-235 when they are actually A/T3-235/75R15. I apologize.
  13. Tires!

    I erred in posting that the tires are a P-235 when they are actually A/T3-235/75R15. I apologize.
  14. Tires!

    Thanks, Greg, I just did the switch.
×