Fastback50

Sounds great! I used to live in Howell and my better half is from Brighton! We will likely stop at a Coney Island because they don't have them out here, and that's just wrong lol.

I'm really hoping the Plymouth is in proper shape to drive across the state to do the Dream Cruise this year. I'll likely take Grand River all the way from beginning to end W to E with this original rear end lol. NOT risking modern highways with the way people drive...

Thanks Dan--that was an excellent explanation--I'll try the high build primer out for sure. I've been experimenting with self-etching primer, haven't tried putting color on it yet though. Early on when I knew nothing I had just used rattle can Rustoleum semi gloss for inner fenders and the battery tray. I want to build my knowledge base on paint/painting so that when it's time to do that, I can give the car a universally decent paint job.

Thanks--I'll try it!

Hey all---spring has (sort of) sprung here in MI, and I'm starting to dig back into the 50 Plymouth. I have a few questions and am looking for feedback. Has anyone figured out a modern heater core that will fit into the heater box in these years? My trusty radiator guy here said it would be $200 to fix mine! I am already having to get the regular rad patched and pressure tested, and am working on a budget here. Any modern heater core ideas would be great. Also, I have lots of rust on this car. In areas where the metal is salvageable (like inner/outer fenders or battery tray), I've wire wheeled and painted, but find that pitting is still evident. Is there some paint that will fill in the pitting, or do I sand the pitting out, or what is the best way to make the newly painted steel look "new" again? I'm getting ready to start chassis painting as go along as well, is roller the best or rattle can/sprayer? Thanks all

Thanks everyone--I'll have to get one of those impact drivers. I'm not sure how much luck I would have had with it as the metals did seem fused together....I think the head would have sheared before the screw turned out, because I soaked them multiples times in PB and that did nothing. I finally was able to get all of the head drilled off with "minimal" damage to the driver's side rubber sill. The passenger will need to be done at some point, and in the meantime I'll be purchasing some actual cutting oil (I was just cooling the bit with alcohol) and a few new cobalt bits (some snapped anyway). I found that the biggest challenge was to get the bit to bite deeper than the initial cutting depth of the tip....after that it sort of wants to spin freely in the crater it made and pressing down really hard doesn't seem to do much but create heat. I'm now going to get the grinder out and cut the remainder of the screw even with the steel and hopefully punch the rest through the hole. Pics to come.

Thanks Dodge, that's good advice, and I think I will try to save them. I'm sure they aren't easy to find and these ones didn't look out of place to me until I found out otherwise.

Thanks--I'm going to begin looking on here for photos of what the stock ones look like and in the meantime I don't need to worry about saving these. Someone on here recently put some excellent looking diamond plate on his Chrysler sills....maybe I'll go that route

Hi Matt, I just did the front disc conversion on my '50 with the Scarebird kit. I'm now getting the original rear in order and will then be putting in the residual valves for both front and rear. I may also need a proportioning valve, we will see. For the sake of future simplicity, I would say go for the conversion. I'm using the original MC with mine and it works just fine. The only thing I don'k like about it is that it's single reservoir so there's no backup if it fails. Then again, people drove on those for decades without issue. If I decide to go with a dual MC I will definitely take the time to add a booster. Good luck

The attached is what mine looks like. Perhaps it's not stock after all? If so I guess i can butcher them and then just break out the grinder with cutoff wheel. Thanks for all the input guys.

Yes we do My next attempt will be with some left hand drill bits....they aren’t cobalt but I’m skeptical anyway because I couldn’t get these screws to turn one bit even after multiple soaks in PB and cutting flathead grooves in the top of them. I just really don’t want to destroy the old rubber.

Hey all...so what's the trick on drilling these stainless steel screws out in the rubber door sills? Mine has 8 on each one, and so far I've blown through two drill bits, one of which was cobalt. I used a cooling agent since I didn't have true cutting fluid on hand....I seem to only get so far and then either it stops grabbing material or it snaps if I put too much pressure on it. I'm using a slow speed as well. What am I doing wrong or what would be the "Thor's Hammer" tool that will blast these out without breaking a sweat (short of oxy-acetylene lol). Normally I wouldn't even save these, but I see the repro's are NOT cheap

Here's some for a fair price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000II8GVY?tag=viglink20872-20 Or if you want to pay high dollar and have a can that matches the vintage of your car you can get this lol: https://www.etsy.com/listing/558151908/phillips-66-dripless-penetrating-oil-can?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-art_and_collectibles-collectibles-figurines&utm_custom1=f8ba7354-6ffa-421a-8322-346de162e41c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8oqo4Lm42QIVlTVpCh2ebggdEAYYAiABEgK9UfD_BwE Also chain lube like Matt167 said though...

Ditto here in Michigan. We have about 2-3 feet of standing snow and windshields of -15, but the biggest deterrent is that SALT!

Hello all, and wishing everyone a happy New Year! Thanks for everyone who has provided me with advice and info this last year. The advice and kindness I've received here the past two or so years is something I'm grateful for, and I couldn't have made progress without it. Thank you to ALL! A special thanks to Tim, Knuckle, and Greg. Take care, Joe

Yes I think I'll pick up the bright trim and maybe even hood and outer fenders. Unfortunately the 230 appears to have seen better days....I think the hood was left open at some point and now the spark plugs have essentially become one with the head. The place is great fun to walk through, even though many of the cars aren't restorable. These kinds of "junk yards" seem to be disappearing quickly.

Yes, I'm bummed too because that grille is great looking....I may just have to grab them anyway lol. You never know, I might have a Dodge someday....and it's going to the crusher otherwise.

Thanks Dpollo but I'm a bit confused (happens to me easily)...you are saying the body parts I mentioned will or will not fit? Or that the dash instruments will tell the tale? Thanks.

Hey all, Was at the yard today and found this '49 Coronet....I immediately started eyeballing possible donor parts options for my '50 P19. Wondering about the hood, grille swap, front outer fenders, and stone shield? I don't need any of these parts now, but one never knows and it will be headed to the crusher soon. Pretty sure the trunk lid is different since it's not a fastback, and door handles look different too. Please let me know if there's anything else you can think of that would be worth pulling out. 230 appears locked up, but next time I may bring some PB and trans fluid and see if I can get it soaking for further inspection later. Thanks.

Haha, that's true!!

Doesn’t it give me more braking strength or power though based on the vacuum assist from the booster? It seems like there is no way my right leg could ever produce enough force for a manual brake system to stop like my 2016 Fusion. I recently had the unfortunate experience of having to test the limits of modern braking due to a “texter” that pulled out in front of me and I have to say I was truly amazed. I don’t ever want or expect my Plymouth to “handle” that way, but the braking power I wouldn’t mind

Mack and Alan--thanks for your valuable insight. I've been experiencing the "can of worms" already just based on the MANY opinions and various experiences on what will really make a disc conversion operate properly or better yet, excellent. The further I open the can of worms (and my wallet), the closer I get to just adding a booster. Even with that though, I'm skeptical that the car will stop on a dime and I haven't heard from anyone that has added a booster. The under-the-floor option MC/Booster looks better because I don't think the firewall mount will work without modifying the firewall. Would love to see pics of guys boosted setups.

Why not buy one that can be rebuilt off of Ebay? I bought my rebuild kit from Mike's Carburetor. Mike's has videos online walking you through a complete re-assembly, and if it's not your exact carb in the video then it is a very similar one. If something goes wrong or you don't want to do it yourself, you can find a reputable mechanic in your area that will rebuild the used one with the kit you purchased. Most performance shops will have at least one guy that still knows carbs, and these carbs are basic, relatively speaking.

Ebay. There are a number of your carbs ranging from parts only, rebuild-ready, or for $595.00 you can have one that's ready to roll out of the box. They have the rebuild kits on there also.

Okay Tim, I will revisit it this week and reach out to a buddy if I get stumped. Thanks for the detailed response. Joe