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Fastback50

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About Fastback50

  • Birthday 08/14/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Muskegon, MI
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, cars, DIY repairs, good weather.
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth Deluxe (P19) fastback.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Interested in most things old and rusty or automotive related
  • Occupation
    Government

Converted

  • Location
    Michigan
  • Interests
    Cars, motorcycles, good books, retiring early.

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1,961 profile views
  1. Sounds great! I used to live in Howell and my better half is from Brighton! We will likely stop at a Coney Island because they don't have them out here, and that's just wrong lol.
  2. I'm really hoping the Plymouth is in proper shape to drive across the state to do the Dream Cruise this year. I'll likely take Grand River all the way from beginning to end W to E with this original rear end lol. NOT risking modern highways with the way people drive...
  3. Thanks Dan--that was an excellent explanation--I'll try the high build primer out for sure. I've been experimenting with self-etching primer, haven't tried putting color on it yet though. Early on when I knew nothing I had just used rattle can Rustoleum semi gloss for inner fenders and the battery tray. I want to build my knowledge base on paint/painting so that when it's time to do that, I can give the car a universally decent paint job.
  4. Hey all---spring has (sort of) sprung here in MI, and I'm starting to dig back into the 50 Plymouth. I have a few questions and am looking for feedback. Has anyone figured out a modern heater core that will fit into the heater box in these years? My trusty radiator guy here said it would be $200 to fix mine! I am already having to get the regular rad patched and pressure tested, and am working on a budget here. Any modern heater core ideas would be great. Also, I have lots of rust on this car. In areas where the metal is salvageable (like inner/outer fenders or battery tray), I've wire wheeled and painted, but find that pitting is still evident. Is there some paint that will fill in the pitting, or do I sand the pitting out, or what is the best way to make the newly painted steel look "new" again? I'm getting ready to start chassis painting as go along as well, is roller the best or rattle can/sprayer? Thanks all
  5. Thanks everyone--I'll have to get one of those impact drivers. I'm not sure how much luck I would have had with it as the metals did seem fused together....I think the head would have sheared before the screw turned out, because I soaked them multiples times in PB and that did nothing. I finally was able to get all of the head drilled off with "minimal" damage to the driver's side rubber sill. The passenger will need to be done at some point, and in the meantime I'll be purchasing some actual cutting oil (I was just cooling the bit with alcohol) and a few new cobalt bits (some snapped anyway). I found that the biggest challenge was to get the bit to bite deeper than the initial cutting depth of the tip....after that it sort of wants to spin freely in the crater it made and pressing down really hard doesn't seem to do much but create heat. I'm now going to get the grinder out and cut the remainder of the screw even with the steel and hopefully punch the rest through the hole. Pics to come.
  6. Thanks Dodge, that's good advice, and I think I will try to save them. I'm sure they aren't easy to find and these ones didn't look out of place to me until I found out otherwise.
  7. Thanks--I'm going to begin looking on here for photos of what the stock ones look like and in the meantime I don't need to worry about saving these. Someone on here recently put some excellent looking diamond plate on his Chrysler sills....maybe I'll go that route
  8. Hi Matt, I just did the front disc conversion on my '50 with the Scarebird kit. I'm now getting the original rear in order and will then be putting in the residual valves for both front and rear. I may also need a proportioning valve, we will see. For the sake of future simplicity, I would say go for the conversion. I'm using the original MC with mine and it works just fine. The only thing I don'k like about it is that it's single reservoir so there's no backup if it fails. Then again, people drove on those for decades without issue. If I decide to go with a dual MC I will definitely take the time to add a booster. Good luck
  9. The attached is what mine looks like. Perhaps it's not stock after all? If so I guess i can butcher them and then just break out the grinder with cutoff wheel. Thanks for all the input guys.
  10. Yes we do My next attempt will be with some left hand drill bits....they aren’t cobalt but I’m skeptical anyway because I couldn’t get these screws to turn one bit even after multiple soaks in PB and cutting flathead grooves in the top of them. I just really don’t want to destroy the old rubber.
  11. Hey all...so what's the trick on drilling these stainless steel screws out in the rubber door sills? Mine has 8 on each one, and so far I've blown through two drill bits, one of which was cobalt. I used a cooling agent since I didn't have true cutting fluid on hand....I seem to only get so far and then either it stops grabbing material or it snaps if I put too much pressure on it. I'm using a slow speed as well. What am I doing wrong or what would be the "Thor's Hammer" tool that will blast these out without breaking a sweat (short of oxy-acetylene lol). Normally I wouldn't even save these, but I see the repro's are NOT cheap
  12. Here's some for a fair price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000II8GVY?tag=viglink20872-20 Or if you want to pay high dollar and have a can that matches the vintage of your car you can get this lol: https://www.etsy.com/listing/558151908/phillips-66-dripless-penetrating-oil-can?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-art_and_collectibles-collectibles-figurines&utm_custom1=f8ba7354-6ffa-421a-8322-346de162e41c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8oqo4Lm42QIVlTVpCh2ebggdEAYYAiABEgK9UfD_BwE Also chain lube like Matt167 said though...
  13. Ditto here in Michigan. We have about 2-3 feet of standing snow and windshields of -15, but the biggest deterrent is that SALT!
  14. Hello all, and wishing everyone a happy New Year! Thanks for everyone who has provided me with advice and info this last year. The advice and kindness I've received here the past two or so years is something I'm grateful for, and I couldn't have made progress without it. Thank you to ALL! A special thanks to Tim, Knuckle, and Greg. Take care, Joe
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