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About Fastback50

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 08/14/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Muskegon, MI
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, cars, DIY repairs, good weather.
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth Deluxe (P19) fastback.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Interested in most things old and rusty or automotive related
  • Occupation


  • Location
  • Interests
    Cars, motorcycles, good books, retiring early.

Recent Profile Visitors

492 profile views
  1. Sub Zero Challenge

    Ditto here in Michigan. We have about 2-3 feet of standing snow and windshields of -15, but the biggest deterrent is that SALT!
  2. Thanks Guys & Best Wishes for the New Year

    Hello all, and wishing everyone a happy New Year! Thanks for everyone who has provided me with advice and info this last year. The advice and kindness I've received here the past two or so years is something I'm grateful for, and I couldn't have made progress without it. Thank you to ALL! A special thanks to Tim, Knuckle, and Greg. Take care, Joe
  3. 49 and 50 Dodge/Plymouth parts compatibility

    Yes I think I'll pick up the bright trim and maybe even hood and outer fenders. Unfortunately the 230 appears to have seen better days....I think the hood was left open at some point and now the spark plugs have essentially become one with the head. The place is great fun to walk through, even though many of the cars aren't restorable. These kinds of "junk yards" seem to be disappearing quickly.
  4. 49 and 50 Dodge/Plymouth parts compatibility

    Yes, I'm bummed too because that grille is great looking....I may just have to grab them anyway lol. You never know, I might have a Dodge someday....and it's going to the crusher otherwise.
  5. 49 and 50 Dodge/Plymouth parts compatibility

    Thanks Dpollo but I'm a bit confused (happens to me easily)...you are saying the body parts I mentioned will or will not fit? Or that the dash instruments will tell the tale? Thanks.
  6. Not posting this to your thread because it is off-topic,but could you ask the yard owner if he has a 51 Ford in there that has the 6 cylinder engine and Fordomatic transmission? I need the bellhousing for a 51 coupe I am restoring,and bellhousings for 6 cylinders are hard to find,even though it was an option. Seems like people so cheap they went for base models were too cheap to pay extra for an automatic transmission.

    I will even take a Flathead V-8 FOM transmission if I have to. If I could get one of them it would be fairly easy to make an adapter.



    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. knuckleharley


      I have always been a big fan of the 49-51 Chev's,but I like the fastback 4drs best of all. It's falling off a log simple to put a 60's-70's 250 or 292 inline 6 in them,too. With the 292 you have the power of a V-8. Best of all,there is not much demand for them,and it's possible to pick up a nice original one fairly cheap.

      I really like the 53-54's,too. Don't much care for Chevy's after that,though.

    3. Fastback50


      Yeah this is my first venture into vintage GM....am originally a Ford guy but a good price on something vintage (not American Pickers or Gas Monkey garage prices) has eluded me so far.

    4. knuckleharley


      49-54 Chevies are pretty much unloved compared to Fords. Maybe even a little more unloved than 49-54 Mopars. This is especially true of the 49-51 Chevy 4dr fastbacks,which *I* think have the smoothest flowing lines going.  They were beautiful when they rolled off the showroom floor. Their only real weak point was the old splash-oiling underpowered 216 inline six. The good news is 60's to 80's inline 6's are also dirt cheap with the exception of the Chevy 292's and the GMC 302's.  Racers LOVE them because they put out stupid torque,and are pretty much bulletproof. The good news is they were used in a BUNCH of industrial equipment,and if you go nosing around you can buy them dirt cheap at surplus sales,farm yards,etc,etc,etc. My neighbors even have a John Deere combine that came from the factory with a Chevy 292 6 in it.

      Putting one with a turbo 350 or turbo 400 behind it in a 49-54 Chevy is only a little tougher than replacing the 216 with another 216,but once you do you will have NO trouble keeping up with traffic,running a AC,etc,etc,etc.

      The only downside to the inline GM's is that even though hi-po parts are plentiful and easy to find,they are usually a little pricey.

      I worked part time at a gas station in Fayetteville right before I got out of the army,and the owner had a Anglia 2dr with a 292 in it with a head made from cutting two 327 FI Chevy heads and welding them back together to create a hi-po inline 6 Chevy head,FI,a radical cam,etc,etc,etc. Purely drag race. He didn't even have ramps for his trailer. He would pull up to it,hit the hammer,and the damn thing would just hop up on the trailer. I was in awe of how he did this.

      He was running a 4 speed tranny with a Pontiac rear end and gears in the high 4's (4:88?),but never got a full run in while I worked for him because he had drag slicks on the back of the car and a drag suspension that allowed him to really hook up,and he kept twisting the Pontiac axles.

      I love the inlines for the sounds they make,as well as the torque they put out. I purposely sought out a stock factory 51 Ford business coupe with the original inline 6 in it to semi-restore because of this. V-8's were pretty easy to find,but it took me years to find one that was completely mechanically,had a clear title,and worth fixing. I already have a 3 carb intake for it,and am looking for a finned aluminum high compression head and cast iron headers to go with the 3/4 cam I will be putting in it. Ahhh,but the sounds that thing will make!

      Same reason I am keeping a flat 6 Mopar engine in my 42 Dodge coupe.

      In the spirit of full-disclosure,I have to admit that I  have a 6 carb 330 DeSoto hemi and push-button 727 to go in my 33 Plymouth coupe,though.

  7. Hey all, Was at the yard today and found this '49 Coronet....I immediately started eyeballing possible donor parts options for my '50 P19. Wondering about the hood, grille swap, front outer fenders, and stone shield? I don't need any of these parts now, but one never knows and it will be headed to the crusher soon. Pretty sure the trunk lid is different since it's not a fastback, and door handles look different too. Please let me know if there's anything else you can think of that would be worth pulling out. 230 appears locked up, but next time I may bring some PB and trans fluid and see if I can get it soaking for further inspection later. Thanks.
  8. Residual valve removal issue

    Haha, that's true!!
  9. Residual valve removal issue

    Doesn’t it give me more braking strength or power though based on the vacuum assist from the booster? It seems like there is no way my right leg could ever produce enough force for a manual brake system to stop like my 2016 Fusion. I recently had the unfortunate experience of having to test the limits of modern braking due to a “texter” that pulled out in front of me and I have to say I was truly amazed. I don’t ever want or expect my Plymouth to “handle” that way, but the braking power I wouldn’t mind
  10. Residual valve removal issue

    Mack and Alan--thanks for your valuable insight. I've been experiencing the "can of worms" already just based on the MANY opinions and various experiences on what will really make a disc conversion operate properly or better yet, excellent. The further I open the can of worms (and my wallet), the closer I get to just adding a booster. Even with that though, I'm skeptical that the car will stop on a dime and I haven't heard from anyone that has added a booster. The under-the-floor option MC/Booster looks better because I don't think the firewall mount will work without modifying the firewall. Would love to see pics of guys boosted setups.
  11. D6G1 carb. needed

    Why not buy one that can be rebuilt off of Ebay? I bought my rebuild kit from Mike's Carburetor. Mike's has videos online walking you through a complete re-assembly, and if it's not your exact carb in the video then it is a very similar one. If something goes wrong or you don't want to do it yourself, you can find a reputable mechanic in your area that will rebuild the used one with the kit you purchased. Most performance shops will have at least one guy that still knows carbs, and these carbs are basic, relatively speaking.
  12. D6G1 carb. needed

    Ebay. There are a number of your carbs ranging from parts only, rebuild-ready, or for $595.00 you can have one that's ready to roll out of the box. They have the rebuild kits on there also.
  13. Residual valve removal issue

    Okay Tim, I will revisit it this week and reach out to a buddy if I get stumped. Thanks for the detailed response. Joe
  14. Residual valve removal issue

    So you think the MC's ability to generate any pressure at all is due to me not bleeding it before I cracked open a bleeder on the lines?
  15. Residual valve removal issue

    Thanks Tim. So I need a 2 lb. in line residual for the front, and 10 lb. for the rear as long as I stick with rear drum. Right now, I have the rear circuit of the MC plugged until I get the lines replaced , which I will hopefully get to in a week or two. Still wondering why all the fluid sat in the top of the MC? Judging by the diagram in the service manual, the MC should still push fluid even without the residual valve installed. I'll take it apart and see if something is not as it should be.