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JerseyHarold

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Everything posted by JerseyHarold

  1. The original engine number should begin with 'P23'. Before ordering any engine parts, I'd verify what engine is in the car. If it's from another year or model, I'd get parts to fit what's in the car now.
  2. If you get a bolt with the same thread and a little longer than the original lower bolt, you can make an alignment pin for removing/installing the starter. Remove the original lower bolt, cut the head off the longer bolt, and screw it in where the lower bolt goes. You can then remove the other starter bolts without having to support the starter at the same time.
  3. Good info. I've heard the hole is an ozone vent for ozone that is created by the ignition points sparking when they open.
  4. To clean up the existing rust, I'd use 'XXXX' grade steel wool (the softest grade) with some WD-40 as a lubricant. Then follow with a non-abrasive wax (like pure Carnuba) for protection. The only way to really get rid of the rust would be to do a chrome strip and replate...very pricey.
  5. It occurred to me that I haven't seen his posts for a while. His latest forum posting was last August. Has anyone communicated with him recently?
  6. There are 4 small bolts that hold the gas pedal pivot bar bracket to the floor. If the top of the pivot bar rusted out or pulled away from the bracket, you can cut small strips of metal to go over the top of the pivot bar, bend them to be snug, and secure them through the existing bracket holes.
  7. In my experience, when you turn on the parking lights the keyhole switch is illuminated also.
  8. I always thought the 'P'-series for Plymouth models was based on the number of years after 1928 (the Plymouth intro year). For example, P14 is model year 1942, which is 14 years after 1928. P23 started in 1951, which is 23 years since 1928. Just conjecture on my part...
  9. Welcome to the forum. P23's are my favorite car and I've had several of them. They did not come with a heater as standard equipment. There were a lot of dealer-installed heaters as well as the 'official' Mopar offerings. Yours looks like an aftermarket heater.
  10. Just a WAG.....Could the exhaust manifold heat control valve be flopping around and intermittently restricting air flow through the engine?
  11. I put the tires I've removed under the chassis to catch the car if it falls.
  12. Might be corona discharge as mentioned previously. Try misting water at the spark plug area of the engine in the dark and see if it has any affect.
  13. Try using a heat gun on the lock cylinder from the keyhole end. It might soften up some old hard grease that's gumming things up.
  14. Searching eBay and contacting Mopar vendors should get you a gas pedal assembly. I've read good reviews about French Lake Auto Parts, an auto parts salvage yard in Minnesota. Their website is: Auto Parts – Annandale, MN – French Lake Auto Parts The A, B, and C body naming system started in the early 1960's and denoted the body series. A=Valiant/Dart, B=Belvedere/Coronet, C=Fury/Polara. The system was not in use in 1953 and doesn't apply to your car. Hope this helps...
  15. Good looking car with a lot of potential. My uncle had its twin until the late 1970's. Bad Chad over on Youtube is currently working on one of these. He's building new quarter panels from scratch...pretty interesting.
  16. When a fusible link opens, the insulation stays intact and the wire within melts. You need to feel along the length of the fusible link and check for any internal gaps or weak areas.
  17. That's correct. IIRC, the fusible link wire size has to be 4 gauge numbers smaller than the wire it protects.
  18. I don't think this was mentioned, but I think I'd use a fusible link wire at the feed wires coming from the relay. They would protect the last few inches of wiring that would otherwise be unprotected. Mopar and others had this arrangement in the sixties and seventies.
  19. I once read that body mount brackets were repro'd for Jeeps and they were adaptable to Mopars. You might want to check with Jeep suppliers for more info.
  20. Sorry to hear of your incident. Ask at local dealerships to see if they know of any paintless dent removal services nearby. Those techs are more oriented towards metalworking without resorting to lots of bondo. A body shop could then tint or blend paint to finish off the repair.
  21. An inertia switch on the fuel pump feed wire is advisable so that the electric pump shuts off if the car is hit or jarred.
  22. Try removing the timing chain and then turning the crankshaft. That would rule out stuck valves as the reason for being stuck.
  23. FWIW, if the owner in Poland could make a tracing on paper of the window he needs, then send it to Rich, it could be used to verify if any USA-sourced part is a match.
  24. You have to remove the steering wheel and dismantle the column to get to the lock cylinder retaining pin. You don't need the key to depress the pin to remove the lock cylinder.
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