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About jimy

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  • Location
    Owego, NY
  • My Project Cars
    1935 KC


  • Location
    Owego NY
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  1. Yes, my carb has that as well. Seems to be ok, but I will be extra careful to make sure the top holds it down snugly. Wish it was a bit more like spring steel, but it is likely fine. Almost no metal parts in the rebuild kit beyond the float valve and seat. Far cry from most 70's motorcycle carb kits which usually include all new jets...Jim
  2. Thanks for that - I did see the info sheet on Ebay - not sure I want to buy without seeing the whole page - but if I saw it I wouldn't need to buy it. I got the float specs from Mike's Carburetors web pages. Also just found a nice article that has a good picture confirming the method to adjust float height. https://www.allpar.com/fix/fuel/carter-BB.html I will check the flatness of the horn... Jim
  3. I got my truck (1935 Dodge KC) out of the garage for the first time this year last night. Started right up but it was running poorly/stalling so I pulled it up next to the garage. Heard a hissing sound, opened the hood and I saw gas dripping from the lower part of the carb. I ended up pulling the top off the carb and looked things over. A small amount of crud at the bottom. Cleaned most of that out and also cleaned the float valve. Put it back together and got it safe back in the garage. Today I ran it for a few minutes at idle, no leak noticed. Then held a higher rpm, no leak noticed. Then revved it up and down a bunch of times to get the accelerator pump going. At that point I did notice a little gas seeping around the top gasket. Big enough to be a problem, but small enough that I could have missed it earlier in my checks. Top gasket seems kinda stiff and dry. I don't want this happening again - if I had taken it out on the road there could have been a fire. The float level is supposed to be 5/64ths from the top. It is currently closer to 1/4" - way low. I assume this is measured while holding the float in place to close the needle and then measure (or just hold the carb upside down). If true, that is way off. But I'm not seeing how less gas in the bowl would cause a leak. I have a feeling the float valve is incorrect because it has a groove near the end - I have seen this on other carbs so it can slot into a groove on the float. I'm considering getting a kit, mostly for the new top gasket and new float valve and seat. The accelerator pump plunger on this is brass and not included in kits (perhaps not even available). It does shoot a nice stream of gas into the venturi. And of course I will adjust for the correct float height. I like this plan, but I don't want another leak. Is it possible there is another reason for the leak besides a bad float valve? Float does not have a hole but I can't be sure it is original and correct. An incorrect shape could change the measurement. I should have measured the fuel level when I took the cover off last night - it was maybe 1/4", maybe twice that or so... Carb model is CTD2 which is correct for a 35 KC. thanks, Jim
  4. I finally have it together and fired it up this afternoon. It runs pretty darn quiet now! I'm guessing that whatever minor noises I hear are normal or will go away when I put the tappet covers back on. Thanks for all the help. I'm going to enjoy the truck much more without that annoying tick... Jim
  5. I'm still slowly getting things together. Yesterday I made a new adjustment plate for the manual heat riser setup (pictured below). I'm ready to start reassembly, unless I decide to paint the manifolds so stay tuned. BTW should I put any sort of gasket sealer on any of the manifold gaskets? Jim
  6. I just started adjusting my valves and I have the same question about some of the valves being mentioned twice in the procedure included above (which is from this forums tech tips section, with some handwritten additions). After doing some forum searches, several people have said those instructions are incorrect and valve adjustment can't be done with just two crank positions. Does anyone have further thoughts on this? Jim
  7. It has been going a bit slow but I have been making progress. I finally took a look at the clearances today and see that a tappet for #1 cylinder had a loose lock nut and had about 1/8" of clearance. I have to believe that is my noise. Can someone tell me the order of intake/exhaust tappets/valves so I can set them properly? I'm assuming it has to line up with the manifold order, but I want to be sure. I separated the manifolds for what has to be the first time since 1935. Three of the long bolts broke. Oddly, with almost no pressure on the wrench. I really cranked on the 4th one and that one came out intact. So I am messing with that and also getting the heat riser working (it is manual for this year and was stuck in "winter"). I have also located a crankcase vent tube to install. thanks, Jim
  8. I could believe the noise could be something like a wrist pin, but I did the spark plug wire removal thing and that had no effect. Oil on the distributor cam lube felt sounds interesting. I will look into that after I adjust the valves and see how it sounds. Are you saying that friction would pull on the mechanical advance? And then either hold it fully advanced or perhaps bounce the timing around? One other thought is the missing crankcase vent tube. Perhaps that in place would muffle more noise that I might expect. Jim
  9. I have included a picture of the hole, sounds like it is the crankcase road draft tube. I'm guessing it was taped up when the block was painted and then forgotten about. Not surprisingly, this is becoming a larger project. I will need to locate that tube and it is also a good time to get the heat riser working. Hope that comes apart without too much difficulty. I did get the tappet covers off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Next is checking the clearances. Jim
  10. I got the manifolds off this morning and I will dig in further tomorrow. I didn't see any evidence of an exhaust leak. I saw that hidden nut during my 30 minutes under the truck yesterday. What is the hole in the block just behind the exhaust manifold near the flywheel? It appears to be covered with paper or foil glued over it. Is there something better than that I can do? It has partially peeled of. Thanks again - it feels good to have an actual start on this rather than just worrying about it... Jim
  11. Well, I'm off to a slow start with checking the tappets. The tappet cover gaskets were installed with a generous amount of a hardening sealant. I managed to get the lower half of one cover loosened with a putty knife. No access to the top half with the manifolds in place. I tried to peel the cover off from below, but I feel like I could bend the cover if I pull any harder. Will likely take the manifolds off next. Jim
  12. Yes, I should have pushed the issue when I got the truck back. Too late now. I do think it has gotten louder since I received it. To further complicate things the restoration took around 10 years and the engine was rebuilt (by a machine shop) in the middle of that restoration. So any complaints would be years and several people away from me. I got a pretty good deal and a nice looking truck, but I was certainly left with bugs to work out. Yes, I had removed the fuel pump and ran it - no change in noise. I will pull the fan belt and see if that makes a difference (probably a long shot, but easy). If it is valve train related it seems to be just one cylinder to me. It is definitely a tick rather than a clatter. So, I do believe I will be checking the valves soon. Not sure why I have avoided it so long - I certainly check/adjust valve on my motorcycles from time to time. Has anyone had good success with a cold check of the valves? I have seen it mentioned (perhaps with slightly adjusted clearances). I just don't see myself doing a hot, running valve check while laying on the ground under the truck. I imagine a cold check would at least show one cylinder out of adjustment (or an actual mechanical problem on one). I appreciate the advice...Jim
  13. Oh - I can definitely access the valve tappet area. It just has to be from underneath or remove the manifolds and access from above. My understanding is that for later models the front wheel is removed and there is an access panel (part of the "inner fender") which can be removed for "easier" access. I just don't want to miss something fairly obvious that isn't the valve tappet adjustment before I do that. Also - I did snug the manifold bolts and that didn't help. thanks, Jim
  14. I've been lurking here for a while and am finally posting. My Dodge truck has a fairly loud tick that I'm hoping to diagnose/fix. It has had this ever since I got it back from the fellow who restored it 4 years ago. The engine was rebuilt as part of the restoration. Perhaps the tick has gotten worse, perhaps not. I have attached a sound file that hopefully some of you can listen to. It probably does sound worse with this phone recording than it does in person. I can't seem to pinpoint the sound with my ear/stethoscope/etc. I did remove the fuel pump and the sound remains. I also pulled each spark plug wire individually. Plugs also look fine (all the same). I know these engines can have some valve noise, but this seems like too much. Any ideas as to the source? FULL DISCLOSURE - this is a 1935 KC pickup which doesn't quite match the years covered by this forum but I do think this forum is the best source of info. Also, this year truck has no access panel for easily checking the valve clearances which is why I haven't done that yet. 35 Dodge.m4a
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