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PT81Jan last won the day on April 27

PT81Jan had the most liked content!


About PT81Jan

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 04/12/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Germany; Friedrichshafen
  • Interests
    Especially Bikes and Cars of the 30s and 40s with Flathead engines (others are also welcome!)
  • My Project Cars
    - 1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck<br />
    - (1942 HD-WLA)

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    born 1971, married, children, 1st occupation: patternmaker, 2nd occupation: engineering technician
  • Occupation
    Designer / Engine Development


  • Location
  • Interests
    Still love my PT81

Recent Profile Visitors

648 profile views
  1. PT81Jan

    230 Crankshaft source

    Hmm, could be done indeed. But we are not many guys here in Germany that know of each other (member map). So the best method for me is to swap questions and answers right HERE in that forum. Once I see a question from an German / European guy that requires a local info (and I am able to give an answer), I have the chance to step in. Unfortunately I do not have a spare crank, but eventually a really good engine rebuild workshop in our area. Just can`t remember the name, but I will ask a friend who is a professional classic motorcycle engine rebuilder. I am sure he knows the address. Will send a PM to the PO then, if of interest. Jan
  2. PT81Jan

    1937 Plymouth bad fuel sender

    Depending on the skills fairly everything can be repaired. I have fixed mine in reality and it works like a dream 😉, see http://p15-d24.com/topic/42339-plan-b-–-what-if-parts-are-not-or-difficult-to-get/ #23
  3. PT81Jan

    Cracked Manifold

    You are right, the kind of this crack is a slow growing one and maybe it still will hold for a while. But someday it will break. Mostly something like that happens when you are far away from home ... If it cracks through, think about that these are very hot gases which are entering the engine compartment ! You have a few weeks until it starts and wan`t to enjoy the trip without thinking does it hold or not ? At least maybe you could use the time to look for a solution ? You have to do it sooner or later anyway ... A replacement, if you get one in time -> Todd B ? Or as Mike36 suggested weld it. Give it to someone who can weld exhausts, if you do not have the equipment yourself. Hmm, where does it come from ? The appearance of the crack let assume me, that this not only a TM- / HC- / LC- Fatique (-> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material) I would also check, if the flange surfaces of the manifold are straight. Seems to me there was a tension due to a uneven flange face which is forced to the even block. This may explain, why the nuts became loose. Just my thoughts ... anyway wish you much fun on the trip !
  4. PT81Jan

    Well it happened! I'm done.

    So if you then will find out you feel uncomfortable on THREE wheels you always are able to use just TWO 😁 Yupp, completely other way of riding. Every guy I know who has ever ridden a sidecar motorcycle, had his moment ... including myself. The reason why I tried to ride on just 2 wheels until I was able to do safe ... not just by accident ... but theeennn it`s fun !!!! Hmm, lifting off the boat would probably not help that much ... just would hit the mailboxes in another height ... hahaha. btw: 750 ccm BMW engine To do a loop to the OP`s topic: Although I and my kids had a lot of fun to ride with the sidecar for many years, life situation changed. So I finally sold the bike, with a tear in one eye. So I completely understand, if someone decides to say goodbye although it hurts.
  5. PT81Jan

    Adjusting the fuel sender float

    If you have all the original equipment it most likely is not an electrical problem. Then the adjustment can be done with a rod correction. But before I would check if the float is leaky and therefore doesn`t float on the correct level ! If you have an universal sending unit it is likely its resistor does have another resistance. If you have another instrument it also is likely it doesn`t match to the resistant of the sending unit.
  6. PT81Jan

    Adjusting the fuel sender float

    I assume both your top / full reading is correct (A) ? If so, bending the rod might help to correct the low level reading but would also have effect on the top level reading (B). More important probably is the low level reading. If you can live with a solala top reading then bending can be a solution. To get a correct reading top and low level the length of the rod also has to be considered (C). I made a sketch with the influence of bending and rod length adjustment. I hope it is understandable. For the adjustment of my sending unit I took a wood board, painted a 1:1 side view of the fuel tank to it and laid the unit down to it in the position where it is mounted to the tank. Hooked then the instrument and a battery. So it easily was possible to simulate the fuel level by moving the rod and determine the correct rod length. Sorry no picture of this. Do it yourself rod, if of interest -> http://p15-d24.com/topic/42339-plan-b-–-what-if-parts-are-not-or-difficult-to-get/ #23
  7. Probably not the issue that you have, but just another thought: After lowering my truck a bit I had a similar metallic rattle noise coming (for sure !) from the gear box. Not all the time and just in second gear. And it got louder and more often. Also then in 3rd gear and mainly while accelerating. I think I pulled and opened the transmission 4 or 5 times, didn`t see anything abnormal to the trans itself, the clutch, flywheel starter and so on. Also checked the prop shaft`s axial clearance. Nothing ... But it turned out, it was the axial clearance ! I have checked this while sitting unloaded in the garage. But on the road, with me as driver (no, I am not that heavy !) and the load of the driving circumstances the propshaft length compensation was on its limit. I have fabricated a spacer flange which is mounted between the rear end flange and prop shaft flange and after that the noise was gone. In my case the source of the issue lead to a noise at a different place. I was sure it is coming from the transmission ...
  8. PT81Jan

    Warm start issue

    I agree, if the heat riser is always in the closed position this should not cause that issue. Before rebuilding my engine it ran at about 180 -190. After I put in new bearings 160 -170 max also in summer at 95°F. 196 is pretty warm, so the issue might still be too much vaporization due to heat. So the main question is, where does the excessive heat come from ? I do not know the condition of your engine, does not have to be the worst cause. So first I would consider the the easier things to check. As the forums colleagues above suggested: > be sure the heat riser is really in the closed position. > ignition timing ! (No worry, this is no rocket science. Everything what you need is the specs, a bulb and two cables and a bit patience 😉 Ah, and a crank would make it easier to turn the crankshaft) > replacement coil available ? > valve adjustment ? > is your cooling system dirty / radiator o.k. ? > common, but more effort, the condition of the water distribution tube
  9. PT81Jan

    Warm start issue

    is the heat riser flap still there or maybe it is stuck open ? The flap was missing on my truck when I got it some years ago. Provided too much heat to the intake manifold which exactly caused the issue that you describe. The fuel is getting vaporized too much and thus too little fuel is entering the combustion chambers. Only way to start it again was to pump /completely press the accelerator down, which over-enriched the intake. But due to that it sometimes only started with a horrible explosion, two times at the gas station ... After installing a heat riser flap starting cold or hot is no longer an issue. edit: see also the heat riser topic in the tech tip section -> http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/heat_riser_adviser.html/
  10. PT81Jan

    Temp needle adjustment

    Maybe that is what you are looking for ...? http://p15-d24.com/topic/43975-temperature-behaviour-reading-cranbrook-218-engine/?page=2&amp;tab=comments#comment-497295 Good success ! Jan
  11. PT81Jan

    Timing cover oil seal

    If there is a difficulty to find a replacement seal, an alternative is to take one with the correct shaft diameter and (let) fabricate a sleeve that fits the outer diameter. That should improve the chance to get one without much trouble which fits . Most of time I even get one out of the metric shelf that fits to my US truck.
  12. PT81Jan

    Engine troubles

    Maybe nothing complicated ... I exactly had the same symptoms two times after a filling up my truck at the gas station. That the engine did not want to start then was caused by a pretty warm engine at a pretty warm summer day. But this finally had nothing to do with the main issue. Probably by filling in the gas some dirt particles stirred up a found their way pretty quick from the tank to the carburetor. Clogged the idle jet just enough to cause the issue that you described. Opened the cover of the carburetor, applied compressed air to the jets and 20 minutes later the engine purred again as it should. Btw, I do not have an extra filter to the fuel line, just the two glass bowls at the pump and just before the carburetor. If there is a bit dirt on the bowls ground, the chance is high that dirt in the jet is the cause. Just a thought and easy to check.
  13. Hey Desotodav, took several month to find and get a diff center/ pumpkin assembly that fits to the truck`s rear end. Every car diff center what I found had the 16 spline side gears. My PT81 truck also has got 10 spline axles. If your pumpkins are of the same type (10 or 11 bolt flange) a swap of parts shouldn`t be a problem. If they have got a different number of bolts, a swap most likely will not work. Two possibilities: > Take the 3.54 ring and pinion out of the car diff pumpkin and put it into the truck diff pumpkin. Watch out the pinion bearings, the taper is different between cars and trucks ! Just if you should think about to leave the roller bearing piece on the pinion shaft and the bearing shelf in the pumpkin. The ring gear has to be mounted a bit out of center due to the larger pinion diameter. Just works with a 3.73, maybe not with a 3.54. You could then remove a bit material off of the ring gear carrier on a lathe. Works, too. > Take the 10 spline side gears out of the truck`s diff pumpkin and put it into the car`s diff pumpkin. I didn`t check this out myself, but according to feedback of others this also should work. If you need more info, let me know. Good luck ! Jan
  14. PT81Jan

    Engine stalls and misfires

    Hey Kai, no worry ... ... if you open the carb really carefully it is possible to remove the gasket without damaging it. Lift off the cover just a bit in case a piece of the gasket sticks to the cover and another piece to the carb body. Then loosen the gasket carefully. Eventually use a sharp knife. Should work, have done this several times. And no trouble when I reused it. Should it nevertheless get damaged, you could cut a new one out of an universal gasket material. These are available at most automotive stores as a set. Roughly DIN A4 size. Elring Klinger for example. If you shouldn`t get one you could use a Tetra Pack cardboard (Milchverpackung, Orangensaftpackung oder sowas in der Art). Ideally those with aluminum coating. If the coat is of plastic, remove that. This is not compatible with fuel. I used that just to carburetors as an emergency repair. Lasted much longer than ever expected. Hope this helps 😉 Regards from the South, Jan
  15. I do not want make bad your idea, since I do not know what rims you have. My Plymouth rims don`t allow to look through it onto the brake drums. So if I had a reminder inscription on the drums, I would only see that warning when the wheel already is off and I just have teared off a lug ... I would have to put that note under the hub on the rim. Anyway, a reminder never hurts.

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