PT81Jan

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PT81Jan last won the day on January 31 2016

PT81Jan had the most liked content!

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About PT81Jan

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany; Friedrichshafen
  • Interests
    Especially Bikes and Cars of the 30s and 40s with Flathead engines (others are also welcome!)
  • My Project Cars
    - 1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck
    - (1942 HD-WLA)

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    born 1971, married, children, 1st occupation: patternmaker, 2nd occupation: engineering technician
  • Occupation
    Designer / Engine Development

Recent Profile Visitors

249 profile views
  1. Ah, and regarding your neat differential gasket - don 't let our suggestions stop you to install it. Test it and let us know your experience
  2. I am sorry if I have to disappoint you. I am afraid that you have to use a new gasket all the time, if you have to remove the pan. The cork is compressed due to the installation, so I doubt it would give a good sealing a second time anyway. I bought a big cork plate and cut out some gaskets more for that reason, so it is not too much effort and costs.
  3. I have made pretty good experience with copper gasket cement spray. (The spray is applied to the gasket itself plus to the sealing surfaces. It doesn`t replace the gasket) It gives a perfect sealing with the advantage that it is very easy to remove a gasket (cork, paper, metal) if necessary. I have used it for the oil pan cork gasket as well as for other gaskets like the gear case cover and cylinder head. Example: Some years ago I had trouble to get a durable sealing of a flathead`s cylinder head (aluminum head, iron block, copper gasket) although the surfaces where perfect in shape. Due to the different coefficient of thermal expansion there was a slight move between the parts which regularly led to leakage. After using the copper gasket spray I never had trouble again with it. http://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-copper-gasket-cement BTW: I agree to Merle. I also would use a silicon sealer or something like that for the rear end, since it normally seldom has to be replaced and it also gives a reliable sealing.
  4. Hey Jj1981, enclosed some pictures of the "battery under the hood relocation" on my PT81 truck. Probably you have a bit different installation conditions, but maybe it helps to develop a solution for your b2b.
  5. broken speedo cable Just had done a thoroughly maintenance on my truck, did a ride around the block and happy that everything works as it should … what the heck is that ??? The speedo pointer did not a twitch anymore … sh The speedometer cable was broken. Not that big problem if you have a shop with a spare part around. I do not have that and since I was impatient anyway, I checked if the cable can be repaired. Fortunately the inner diameter of the cable sheath is large enough that it is possible to fix the cable with a tube [1]. Installed the cable, did a test. Crack !! ?? Took out the cable, it was broken at the same place. Next attempt, same effect… next attempt, same result. (How many attempts does someone need until the light in the head is on …) Checked then the speedometer mechanism. The drive was completely blocked ! Removed the speedo, let the drive soak with WD40 for some minutes[2]. After that the drive did move already quite passable. Let drip a little precision mechanics oil into the drive (sleeve) and run the speedo with a drilling machine (counterclockwise !) for another 5 minutes [3]. Everything is working well again. Just a recommendation to also check the speedo drive to avoid duplicate (or triple...) effort, or even damage a new cable of which you were glad to get it !
  6. In my case it was not visible that the axle is bended and therefore the angles out of spec. Got aware after, when the tires started to show wear. This is my first car/truck that I have restored. Should have checked this but wasn't even thinking about that this could be not ok... The handling is not bad... But I do not have a comparison if it maybe could be much better ... "Experience is the sum of all failures that someone has done..."
  7. Thank you much TodFitch. To straighten it cold or hot was the info I needed. If it had to be done hot, I would be worried about to get back the correct strength by heat treatment.
  8. Thank you, seems that you are able to read thoughts beyond the continents … I was thinking about to write a post regarding that issue the next days, too. My last front tires also showed heavy uneven wear on the outside. The new ones already shows considerable wear (after about 3000 Miles). Toe-in is according to specification. Checked the camber. Should have 0° to 3/4° (1/4° preferred) according to my manual. My front axle has got 1° on the one side, about 1 1/2° on the other. It doesn’t show an obvious dent, but since the king pins itself and the king pin bores in the axle are in almost perfect condition, I think the axle must be dented. I was thinking about correcting the angle by drilling larger bores for the king pin bushings and making new bushings, but so far I have still hesitated. I first would have to figure out how many material I had to remove. I don`t want to weaken the ends of the axle more than necessary … Second is to bend the axle back to get the correct camber. So my question is: Has anyone here ever corrected a slightly bended axle by bending it back ? Aah and I agree, this really sucks ...
  9. Since the engine spins fast without the spark plugs installed let me assume that there is no abnormal mechanical resistance. You figured out that you have a good spark, checked the timing and there is fuel supply. Did you try to start the motor by pushing the car ? I had to do this before I had rebuilt my motor -> it sometimes was absolutely not possible to start it by the starter motor, but amazing easy by pushing. If that works, it would at least help to exclude the whole starter system as a failure source.
  10. Made my crank out of a steel rod that I got in a metal store (about 8$). With the help of a blowtorch it was easy to bend the 90° angles. Drilled a hole square through the end and pressed a smaller steel rod into the bore. Rounded the edge - ready. Have I ever tried to started the motor with the crank ? On my motor it is not easy to crank it over by hand, so every time I was thinking about it, I decided to do it the next time … But as TodFitch mentioned, it is also a valuable tool for me to set the TDC.
  11. Thx, if I had known the reason for the flat tire (simply a loose tire valve - fixed within a minute or so) , I wouldn't have picked the Harley and wouldn't have taken the pictures, hahaha
  12. Hey Geekay, sounds like an similar issue that I had two weeks ago. At first only a little bit lack of power. Some days later slightly stuttering when accelerating, slowly getting worse … The timing was not perfect but not bad. Slightly adjusted it according to spec., test light worked. But after that I also had no flashing test light when it should. Took also another one … I noticed then that the breaker certainly did move, but didn`t really break when the distributor cam was in the firing position. Lifted it with the finger nail and had a flashing test light … At the end it was a simple problem: The breaker was not set correctly. I think it had a minimum clearance before I corrected the timing and thus had a weak spark with the effect described above. After correcting the timing, the breaker had no clearance and thus no flashing test light and thus no spark. Properly adjusted, everthing works well ! Good luck, Jan
  13. 3 times FLAT – My Plymouth FLAThead with the Harley FLAThead the morning after bringing it home with a FLAT front tire …
  14. Simple but great idea to fasten it back together with small screws! I am curious how you did that in detail. I think if I head this in mind before, I would have made some small metall sheet angles (hope this is the right word) to attach the pot to the main plate. Advantage is that it is much easier to maintain the mechanism, if needed ! Simply open the screws, remove the pot, grease it for example and fasten it back. Thumbs up for your idea and complement!
  15. Window regulator repair While enjoying an early spring ride with my PT81 two days ago, the driver side window one third open, I wanted to move the window a bit down. Klonk, the crank lever blocked. Cranked it to the opposite direction, the window moved up easily. Down, klonk. Three attempts later the window was completely closed … It ended that I had to remove the regulator unit out of the door. For those who had not yet had the opportunity to work on a regulator: essentially that thing is a simple mechanical device. No need to get afraid of it. When inspecting the unit, I did not see anything that was unusual worn or any dirt that was sticking in the mechanics. First tried it with oiling, but it still moved only into one direction, not into the other one – klonk. That klonk let me assume that there must be something in that pot [1] where the crankshaft comes out. Unfortunately that pot is spot welded to the unit`s main plate [2]. What shall I say, at the risk to damage more, I had to open that pot in any case … I carefully drilled the spot welds off and detached the pot with a small steel wedge [3]. I really was surprised how many pieces were inside [4]! After cleaning the parts I became aware that that what first appeared to be a fine thread [5] was a spring [6]. I also found that tiny piece of wire [7] … that is the end piece of the spring. The repair was pretty simple: Bended a hook to the broken end of the spring [8], greased everything and put all pieces back into the pot [9]. The two ends have to be hooked into the mechanism. The picture shows one of the spring`s end unhooked [10]. The green arrow shows where it has to be, when ready installed (spring loaded). Instead of trying to weld the pan back onto the main plate (I feared to damage the pan since it has got a thin wall thickness) I first tried to solder it [11] and it worked. Two hours after removing the regulator unit out of the car I had a perfect working unit. Hope this post helps in case someone of you will have an issue with the window regulator, too. By the way: Althogh I was a little disappointed that the mechanism already has gone broken after 78 years - I am really again and again impressed what great solutions the guys developed, even at so minor things like a window regulator !