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PT81Jan

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PT81Jan last won the day on April 27

PT81Jan had the most liked content!

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About PT81Jan

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 04/12/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany; Friedrichshafen
  • Interests
    Especially Bikes and Cars of the 30s and 40s with Flathead engines (others are also welcome!)
  • My Project Cars
    - 1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck<br />
    - (1942 HD-WLA)

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    born 1971, married, children, 1st occupation: patternmaker, 2nd occupation: engineering technician
  • Occupation
    Designer / Engine Development

Converted

  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Still love my PT81

Recent Profile Visitors

587 profile views
  1. PT81Jan

    Engine stalls and misfires

    Hey Kai, no worry ... ... if you open the carb really carefully it is possible to remove the gasket without damaging it. Lift off the cover just a bit in case a piece of the gasket sticks to the cover and another piece to the carb body. Then loosen the gasket carefully. Eventually use a sharp knife. Should work, have done this several times. And no trouble when I reused it. Should it nevertheless get damaged, you could cut a new one out of an universal gasket material. These are available at most automotive stores as a set. Roughly DIN A4 size. Elring Klinger for example. If you shouldn`t get one you could use a Tetra Pack cardboard (Milchverpackung, Orangensaftpackung oder sowas in der Art). Ideally those with aluminum coating. If the coat is of plastic, remove that. This is not compatible with fuel. I used that just to carburetors as an emergency repair. Lasted much longer than ever expected. Hope this helps 😉 Regards from the South, Jan
  2. I do not want make bad your idea, since I do not know what rims you have. My Plymouth rims don`t allow to look through it onto the brake drums. So if I had a reminder inscription on the drums, I would only see that warning when the wheel already is off and I just have teared off a lug ... I would have to put that note under the hub on the rim. Anyway, a reminder never hurts.
  3. PT81Jan

    engine studs and gearbox gasket set

    I have ordered both, the bolt set and gaskets at Bernbaums -> https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts.aspx Some here in Europe recommend Rockauto due to moderate costs -> https://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/plymouth,1953,cranbrook,3.6l+218cid+l6,1349827 Here a previous post where I attached a picture that shows the bolt set and gaskets -> http://p15-d24.com/topic/46957-brass-manifold-nuts-and-washers/?tab=comments#comment-498478
  4. PT81Jan

    engine studs and gearbox gasket set

    Hey Franky, although I am much more familiar with metrics, I also would not think about put them into the engine, transmission, etc.. No problem to fix the floorboards with metric bolts. Just my opinion ... I ordered the manifold studs as a set in the US. Bolts, conical lock washers, nuts. Not horrible expensive items and not too much shipping and customs fees. Hmm, whatever inexpensive means ... but not worth the effort to bore and threading the holes in the block. And you would need the correct (metric )bolts in addition anyway. I also have tried to get manifold gaskets or at least the right gasket material for fabricating them here in Germany. Of course you can get them, but more expensive than order them yourself in the US. Sorry, if that should not be the right answer !? Good luck, Jan
  5. Kein Problem, im Oktober bin ich voraussichtlich zu Hause. Sei herzlich willkommen ! No problem, in October I am most likely at home. Be welcome !
  6. OK, I am located in Germany, so I think I meet International ?! Rule 1.: Working on MY 1939 PT81 - changed the rear end ratio from 4.11 to 3.73 Rule 2.: After month of search I finally got a 3.73 diff which fits to my truck. Unfortunately I was delivered by an old wrinkled man, not the nice post office girl 😥 Rule 3.: see below Rule 4.: I got my truck 4 1/2 years ago. Has been 15 years in a barn in Iowa until a friend found it. He needed something to fill the shipping container (he`s more a Ford guy, sorry). So this was my chance !!! He wasn`t really interested in, today he could cry (hahaha, he will not get it back) The only PT81 in Germany then (today probably 3). What inspires me: I felt in love with the nose 😍. The technique anyway ... Rule 5.: Took a lot of research what differential parts will fit into the truck pumpkin. A forum guy of Minnesota which also owns a PT had the same problem. We interchanged our research results and finally both got 3.73 gears which fits to the truck`s pumpkin. Plug and play. Will post the essence, soon. Rules fulfilled ?!
  7. PT81Jan

    Engine Number in the title?

    Hi Thomba, I assume that you plan to do a historical registration (H-Kennzeichen) ?! Usually those TÜV-agents who are doing that kind of registration are pretty familiar with the circumstances. Talking to them / explaining the situation in advance should be very helpful. My German titel document shows / describes the location of the VIN which is stamped into the nameplate. Located on the right door frame. They didn`t mention the frame`s VIN-No. (same as on the nameplate) in the registration papers. No engine No. in the title, just the engine data (displacement, hp at rev., kind of fuel). Way better if you should replace the engine someday. Good luck, Jan
  8. PT81Jan

    Tappet Adjustment Cold

    Maybe this will help you -> http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html/ If you don`t have the oilpan already installed and the engine eventually on a stand, you may watch the specific cam of the camshaft. The cam lobe should roughly be opposite the lifter on the valve you are adjusting. Just if you should be uncertain.
  9. PT81Jan

    glass lens gaskets ?

    I don`t have a clue what gaskets a `48 Chrysler uses. So just had a quick view on their homepage, maybe you find the answer there !? click -> https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-exterior-rubber.aspx
  10. PT81Jan

    engine Parts

    Hallo Mario, what does package mean ? The whole driveline, a complete engine or just the sharp parts for an engine ? Maybe this is what you are looking for: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/flathead-6-zylinder-hot-rod-motoren-edgy-zylinderkopf-vergaser/846008287-223-305 Have never seen parts like this for sale here. No price stated, for sure not cheap. But probably little delivery costs and no customs fee. Grüße, auch aus Deutschland Jan
  11. In comparison to the distance between your home and Germany I am practically next those towns. In relation to the size of Germany it is not directly in the neighborhood. I am located in the very South of Germany -> http://p15-d24.com/membermap/
  12. I for sure would offer my help, if someone was sticking in a problem like a missing spot light piece. But since the only CNC machine which I own is my hands, it takes a couple of hours to fabricate such single parts. And since I am located in Germany, it probably would be even less interesting for folks due to shipping of items. Buuut, I really like to fabricate such fiddly things, so if you seriously need a spot light inside part, I of course will help you. I still have a bit of the materials left. Shipping would be to you, parts ...hmmm, forget it - hey I am a Senior member, have way too much spare time on my hands Thank you for your reply, Ralph. Just a few hours ?! That sounds very good ! Sometimes I am a bit envious on folks in the US. Good part sources, machine shops that are willing to put their hands on old Mopar technique without demanding gold bars for their work. Not so here. I think just that limitation is the reason why I am doing plan B´s. But it is pretty o.k., part of the passion
  13. Spot light switch One of the last things that I always had on the “want to do list” for my truck … My truck is equipped with a spot light on the driver side. But every time I am entering the cockpit I see that missing spot light switch. The market offers a lot of aftermarket and NOS spot lights. Easy to buy a complete replacement - so why plan B ? Then I still would have an incomplete (original !) spot light laying around. And although it shows its wear of life (which my whole PT wears with pride) it is not an alternative for me to exchange it for a new one. The www. search revealed that there exists a lot of different types. Of mine I just got one usable hit. But what was that ?! The pictures showed that the original switch housing is made of a plastic piece, which doesn`t look that nice for my taste. I am not that guy who needs everything absolutely 100% original. But at least it should look like it was made in that era. So I decided that my only option was to fabricate a switch unit myself: Ahh, I am sometimes a bit impatient once I have an idea, so I like it to use materials that are laying around.
  14. Leaf spring rubber bumper Today I changed the tires and got a look onto the rubber bumpers which are mounted on the front leaf springs. These were completely gone when I did restore my PT81 four years ago. Back then I wanted to order new ones at Bernbaums but they told me they don`t have any on stock and new ones are only available in six month or seven, maybe in nine. Repos which I saw on other providers sides (for my type of truck !) had a completely different dimensioning as my originals. Since I anyway did lower the truck a bit, I was looking for other ones on swap meets and the www. Nothing, too large, too small, too different, pretty expensive … Some days later in the hardware store, looking for something for the house. Had a bit time and still that rubber thing in my mind. Walked through every single shelf row. Garden section, domestic things, sanitary, tools … stop, what`s that ??!!! Rubber hammers. A lot of rubber hammers ! And in different sizes ! And even cheap, 2 to 4 € each. Took some, cut them into pieces, fabricated two plates of stainless sheet metal, fixed the rubber pieces with a silicon adhesive to them. And they do their job perfect, not too hard, not too soft. No month-long waiting, no longer searching, no shipping, no customs fees, … Sometimes it is so easy, but you don `t see that the source is so close to you … (Pics shows the suspension without load, distance between rubber and frame is much less when the truck is standing on its wheels)
  15. PT81Jan

    Brass Manifold Nuts and Washers

    Wondered that too, when I got my new nuts and washer sometime ago. Here my thoughts: Requirement is, that the bolting doesn`t lose its preload to ensure the manifolds doesn`t leak. Parts do expand when getting hot and contract, when getting cold. So the bolting has to compensate that movement. Bolts / studs are working like a spring when properly tightened. Longer ones do have a better preload=self-lock than short ones. Assumption: no additional locking precausion needed on the long bolts, so standard washers and nuts are used (red circles). On the other hand a reason to use conical nuts on short bolts (green circle) might be, that not enough self-lock is guaranteed. The slots on those nuts are working like a locking device. The conical washer are needed as a counter part of course. Remains the question why there are short bolts without conical (lock) nuts: Those with the yellow circle have to hold two manifold flanges. Therefor a washer with a larger diameter is needed. Assuming these are no special made items but standard parts, there doesn`t exist conical washers with a larger diameter. So regular washers and nuts are used. On that with the blue circle there is just not enough space in height to put the conical nut and washer between the manifold flange and wall. Regarding the different material. Brass parts doesn`t seizure like steel. The conical nuts need to be of steel due to their job working as a spring, too. Just my assumptions ...
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