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PT81Jan last won the day on April 27

PT81Jan had the most liked content!


About PT81Jan

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 04/12/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Germany; Friedrichshafen
  • Interests
    Especially Bikes and Cars of the 30s and 40s with Flathead engines (others are also welcome!)
  • My Project Cars
    - 1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck<br />
    - (1942 HD-WLA)

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    born 1971, married, children, 1st occupation: patternmaker, 2nd occupation: engineering technician
  • Occupation
    Designer / Engine Development


  • Location
  • Interests
    Still love my PT81

Recent Profile Visitors

695 profile views
  1. PT81Jan

    A coil in the Trunk...

    ... as an excuse you could tell people which are not amused, this was an early type of exhaust aftertreatment. Just for reduction of NOx`es ..
  2. PT81Jan

    The purple people eater is slowly disintegrating

    Ohh, this painfully remembers me to a test ride with my almost 80 year old flathead motorcycle. I had problems to get my freshly rebuilt carburetor properly adjusted. On the felt 100th test-ride I heard a slight popp. As if by magic the engine ran perfect. Was super glad, went home ... and saw that I had lost the cover of the air-cleaner housing (not just a cover - more a sheet metal housing with louvers and embossed maintenance inscription). Damn ... So I quickly drove back to the place where I heard that popp. Just one Mile. And just before I arrived that place I saw the cover laying on the road, so near ... ... but I also saw a car coming from the opposite direction. Nooo, not ... I again heard a popp and another popp... The tires of the car exactly met the cover which then was flat like a tin can which got under the foot of an elephant ... I could have howled. Today I can laugh about it ... and isn`t that and the posts above the stuff that we have forever in mind and tell each other at the campfire ?!!
  3. PT81Jan

    50 Plymouth - New noise,, ?

    You are welcome. This is why we all meet here in that forum. Swap experience and help each other in troubleshooting. If you summarize all the issues that happened to the folks here you probably can get an answer for every single problem 😊 Your description was pretty good, so lead into the right direction ...
  4. PT81Jan

    50 Plymouth - New noise,, ?

    ItΒ΄s always difficult to determine a noise from a description. But of course also to describe ... According to your writing I first would consider every sleeve bearing that is dependent on rpm and isn`t lubricated by the engine`s oiling system. Eventually the water pump ...or the rear generator bearing (if you have the original gen). The last one did frequently show a squealing noise on my generator. 2 or 3 drops of sewing machine oil to the oiler on the rear of the gen and the bearing ran fine again. If this should be the source of your noise and it comes back after a short period of time, you probably have to swap that bearing. Just a thought ..
  5. PT81Jan

    Lowering Your Truck By Removing Leafs

    A member here saw a picture of my truck some months ago and asked me (PM) how I did the lowering: "...Was wondering what your suspension set up was. Looks really nice without being crazy low ..." Here the description: Rear: Just turned the shackles from the bottom up. Had to cut out the lateral sheet metal paneling under the bed a bit (marked green) to provide space when the shackles moves. Important: the positions of the axles leaf spring perches have to be altered to correct the propeller shaft angle ! Additionally I removed one or two leaf springs (the shortest ones). This btw led to a better road performance. Before it was too hard for my taste (I seldom carry heavy loads). Front: This was a bit more tricky. I separated the leaf spring package and turned the longest leaf spring by 180Β° and put everything back together. Result is that the position of the spring`s eyelet in relation to the spring`s axle mounting point lowers the suspension. Lets say by 1Β½β€œ. The single springs have got a curved shape when relaxed. So once that with the eyelet has been turned and put back together to a package it provides an additional lowering by approx.1Β½ β€œ. Reason is the opposite curves. Technically it maybe is not quite a perfect engineered solution. I indeed was a bit worried, because the single preloaded springs work against each other. But it works well since 4 years now ! Additionally I removed one or two leaf springs (also the shortes ones). Provides another Β½β€œ. Ah, to separate the springs it is necessary to open the metal clamps. Therefor they have to be heated with a torch ! And I fabricated two additional clamps to keep the (opposite curved) springs properly together. Note: watch out that the steering levers do not touch each other ! They are getting closer as a result. No special parts needed, zero costs (except gas for the torch and grease for the springs) and less effort than it sounds. Pictures here -> PT_suspension.pdf
  6. PT81Jan

    pictures from the other side of the pond

    Some impressions for the motorcycle fans 1929 HD Flatheads Super rare "stovepipe" Nimbus 1 Nimbus 2 - Dutch Army BSA parallel twin looong vehicle Russian M72 Indian racers finish line Nice trailer of the event http://www.romomotorfestival.dk/
  7. Spending my holidays in Denmark. About 1100 km north of my home in South Germany. My wife always wanted to have vacation in the North. Raaandomly last weekend there was a nice oldtimer meeting just behind the dunes of the house we rent 😁 It is an event where old racers (cars and motorcycles up to 1947) race along the Lakolk beach of RØMØ. Most were made in US. O.k. here I have to do an outing, I also like the early F..ds and Ch...ys, but I also saw some real nice Mopars. I had some super nice conversation with Plymouth guys from Belgum and the Netherlands about our Flathead 6 stuff. Enjoy if you want 1941 Plymouth 1938 Plymouth left - the Chrysler on the right was for sale Rusties Some other nice made US beauties F..d trucks (sorry, NO Mopar truck there) two for the big boys ... Let`s race Sporty Plymouth with sweet rear Big banger !!! P.S.: My wife was super happy, too 😊
  8. PT81Jan

    230 Crankshaft source

    Hmm, could be done indeed. But we are not many guys here in Germany that know of each other (member map). So the best method for me is to swap questions and answers right HERE in that forum. Once I see a question from an German / European guy that requires a local info (and I am able to give an answer), I have the chance to step in. Unfortunately I do not have a spare crank, but eventually a really good engine rebuild workshop in our area. Just can`t remember the name, but I will ask a friend who is a professional classic motorcycle engine rebuilder. I am sure he knows the address. Will send a PM to the PO then, if of interest. Jan
  9. PT81Jan

    1937 Plymouth bad fuel sender

    Depending on the skills fairly everything can be repaired. I have fixed mine in reality and it works like a dream πŸ˜‰, see http://p15-d24.com/topic/42339-plan-b-–-what-if-parts-are-not-or-difficult-to-get/ #23
  10. PT81Jan

    Cracked Manifold

    You are right, the kind of this crack is a slow growing one and maybe it still will hold for a while. But someday it will break. Mostly something like that happens when you are far away from home ... If it cracks through, think about that these are very hot gases which are entering the engine compartment ! You have a few weeks until it starts and wan`t to enjoy the trip without thinking does it hold or not ? At least maybe you could use the time to look for a solution ? You have to do it sooner or later anyway ... A replacement, if you get one in time -> Todd B ? Or as Mike36 suggested weld it. Give it to someone who can weld exhausts, if you do not have the equipment yourself. Hmm, where does it come from ? The appearance of the crack let assume me, that this not only a TM- / HC- / LC- Fatique (-> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material) I would also check, if the flange surfaces of the manifold are straight. Seems to me there was a tension due to a uneven flange face which is forced to the even block. This may explain, why the nuts became loose. Just my thoughts ... anyway wish you much fun on the trip !
  11. PT81Jan

    Well it happened! I'm done.

    So if you then will find out you feel uncomfortable on THREE wheels you always are able to use just TWO 😁 Yupp, completely other way of riding. Every guy I know who has ever ridden a sidecar motorcycle, had his moment ... including myself. The reason why I tried to ride on just 2 wheels until I was able to do safe ... not just by accident ... but theeennn it`s fun !!!! Hmm, lifting off the boat would probably not help that much ... just would hit the mailboxes in another height ... hahaha. btw: 750 ccm BMW engine To do a loop to the OP`s topic: Although I and my kids had a lot of fun to ride with the sidecar for many years, life situation changed. So I finally sold the bike, with a tear in one eye. So I completely understand, if someone decides to say goodbye although it hurts.
  12. PT81Jan

    Adjusting the fuel sender float

    If you have all the original equipment it most likely is not an electrical problem. Then the adjustment can be done with a rod correction. But before I would check if the float is leaky and therefore doesn`t float on the correct level ! If you have an universal sending unit it is likely its resistor does have another resistance. If you have another instrument it also is likely it doesn`t match to the resistant of the sending unit.
  13. PT81Jan

    Adjusting the fuel sender float

    I assume both your top / full reading is correct (A) ? If so, bending the rod might help to correct the low level reading but would also have effect on the top level reading (B). More important probably is the low level reading. If you can live with a solala top reading then bending can be a solution. To get a correct reading top and low level the length of the rod also has to be considered (C). I made a sketch with the influence of bending and rod length adjustment. I hope it is understandable. For the adjustment of my sending unit I took a wood board, painted a 1:1 side view of the fuel tank to it and laid the unit down to it in the position where it is mounted to the tank. Hooked then the instrument and a battery. So it easily was possible to simulate the fuel level by moving the rod and determine the correct rod length. Sorry no picture of this. Do it yourself rod, if of interest -> http://p15-d24.com/topic/42339-plan-b-–-what-if-parts-are-not-or-difficult-to-get/ #23
  14. Probably not the issue that you have, but just another thought: After lowering my truck a bit I had a similar metallic rattle noise coming (for sure !) from the gear box. Not all the time and just in second gear. And it got louder and more often. Also then in 3rd gear and mainly while accelerating. I think I pulled and opened the transmission 4 or 5 times, didn`t see anything abnormal to the trans itself, the clutch, flywheel starter and so on. Also checked the prop shaft`s axial clearance. Nothing ... But it turned out, it was the axial clearance ! I have checked this while sitting unloaded in the garage. But on the road, with me as driver (no, I am not that heavy !) and the load of the driving circumstances the propshaft length compensation was on its limit. I have fabricated a spacer flange which is mounted between the rear end flange and prop shaft flange and after that the noise was gone. In my case the source of the issue lead to a noise at a different place. I was sure it is coming from the transmission ...
  15. PT81Jan

    Warm start issue

    I agree, if the heat riser is always in the closed position this should not cause that issue. Before rebuilding my engine it ran at about 180 -190. After I put in new bearings 160 -170 max also in summer at 95Β°F. 196 is pretty warm, so the issue might still be too much vaporization due to heat. So the main question is, where does the excessive heat come from ? I do not know the condition of your engine, does not have to be the worst cause. So first I would consider the the easier things to check. As the forums colleagues above suggested: > be sure the heat riser is really in the closed position. > ignition timing ! (No worry, this is no rocket science. Everything what you need is the specs, a bulb and two cables and a bit patience πŸ˜‰ Ah, and a crank would make it easier to turn the crankshaft) > replacement coil available ? > valve adjustment ? > is your cooling system dirty / radiator o.k. ? > common, but more effort, the condition of the water distribution tube

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