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PT81Jan

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PT81Jan last won the day on April 27 2018

PT81Jan had the most liked content!

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About PT81Jan

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 04/12/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany; Friedrichshafen
  • Interests
    Especially Bikes and Cars of the 30s and 40s with Flathead engines (others are also welcome!)
  • My Project Cars
    - 1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck<br />
    - (1942 HD-WLA)

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    born 1971, married, children, 1st occupation: patternmaker, 2nd occupation: engineering technician
  • Occupation
    Designer / Engine Development

Converted

  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Still love my PT81

Recent Profile Visitors

799 profile views
  1. PT81Jan

    Chrysler/Plymouth Flat head Rebuild

    Thanks for posting this. Was watching part 1 and 2 some weeks ago, but didn`t get part 3 displayed. So for completion, here is part 1 & part 2 (Maybe moderators will move this to the Technical archive section ? Interesting for both the car & truck guys here)
  2. PT81Jan

    Airflow influence: Opel Admiral

    Just a slight data correction / supplement: The Opel Amiral has been produced from 1937 - 39. In the short period of production it had a pretty respectable market share. Even in competition to high class section like Maybach (which formerly was produced in the company location where I am working for). End of production reason was indeed the beginning of WW 2 which was in Sept. 1939. The engine of the Admiral was needed for military trucks then ... Anyway, you are right, the influence of some less successful designs often can be seen on later models of other manufacturers which had more success then. Maybe something for the OT (off topic) section ?
  3. PT81Jan

    1940 Radiator aftermarket adapted?

    Hi Dave, as mentioned above I used UHU Plus -> http://www.uhu.com/en/products/epoxy-adhesives-2-component/detail/uhu-plus-endfest-3002-k-epoxidharzkleber-1.html?cHash=70cb5d93b5a76faed4b9eb03ed1cf9eb I don`t know, if this is available in the US but I am sure there are comparable products. Have a look on: 1. on which stuff it is resistant against (Epoxy is resistant against most stuff that we use in our vehicles) 2. the temperature range in use (mine is -40°F to at least 212°F -> I wouldn`t worry with that upper limit, / short term is 356°F ) Jan Hi 40desoto, yupp, I also would have hated it to do it twice. I cannot guarantee, if that works for you. Depending on the condition of your radiator ... for me it absolutely has been worth the attempt. Not really difficult to fix and not much money spent. Still good up to now. Ah and although PITA´s seems to be resistant against high temperatures and water steam, I wouldn`t use it as a radiator 😉 "... most pita are baked at high temperatures (450–475 °F (232–246 °C)), which turns the water in the dough into steam ...." (WIKIPEDIA) Jan
  4. PT81Jan

    1940 Radiator aftermarket adapted?

    Not an answer regarding your aftermarket replacement question, but if I understood you right, you would prefer to keep your original radiator !? Mine already started to mark the territory out of two places of the honeycombs. I had good success repairing the original radiator myself. How ? My first thought was to solder it, but after the research it was more likely to damage it even more that way. Every info source I found recommended a 2-component adhesive. After emptying and pulling the radiator, I had to dry the leaking areas. Therefor I used a hairdryer. That process showed at least 15 - 20 (!) more places which were leaky. Super little but potential candidates to get larger. The warm air dried the honeycombs but the capillarity soaked the rest moisture out trough the tiny fissures. I marked them with a paint pen and dried it until no moisture came out (patience ...). Then I carefully cleaned the places with paint thinner and applied the 2-c adhesive with a brush (I used UHU Plus). (Not too thick, it will run away. In doubt do it in two steps) A bit of warm blow dryer air helps to make the adhesive temporary a bit thinner, so it better soaks into the fissures in the honeycombs. Finally painted the rad with a spray can. The repair was about 1 ½ years ago, no leaks anymore since then. Costs about 20€ / 23$. Maybe worth an attempt ...
  5. PT81Jan

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    I really like it how the adverts once were lovingly designed
  6. PT81Jan

    Enjoyable Christmas decorations.

    Haha, that was a really good one ! I went to the workshop today to visit my 24 advent friends ...yikes, there are just 4 left !!! Probably the other ones also joined to the choir. At least I know now, that they were singing, not I ...
  7. PT81Jan

    48 pu electrical

    Not the specs of a `48, but if it helps, the "how to" should be pretty similar ...
  8. An often discussed issue caught me now too: poor quality breaker points. In this specific case not the points of the distributor but the voltage breaker point of the regulator. Basically the same ... My battery has no longer been properly charged, so I checked the charging system and found that worn pair of points. I tried to file them smooth, but these were so horribly burnt, that not much of the material was left. Besides the material was so soft that it would not have last long until the next failure. Since I did not want to swap the whole regulator, I tried to find replacement contacts. I did not really expect to find one, but … ... long story short, I think I found a source which I think is worth to share and may help others with chunk breaker issues, too: Got them at a supplier* which sells service parts for old pinball gaming machines ! NOT made in China like most at a fairly reasonable price (0.85€/each) ! Point material is tungsten and a file test makes me confident they will work a while. On top is that the diameter exactly is the same as of the original points. They have a small pin on the back side to stick it into the breaker arm and can be fixed with a slight punch to the pin. That`s it. * is in Germany but I am pretty certain that gaming machine services exists almost everywhere in the world
  9. PT81Jan

    clutch pedal bushing

    Maybe my whole pedal arrangement has been in a worse condition. So I had to revise not just the bushing(s) but also the shaft. Can bee seen in topic http://p15-d24.com/topic/42339-plan-b-–-what-if-parts-are-not-or-difficult-to-get/ post #2 So yes, I am a certain that a machinist can manufacture a bushing which properly fits to your pedal shaft. Just drilling would enlarge the bushing bore size, so round and smooth but more play ....
  10. PT81Jan

    Wood for bed floor oak or pine

    Depending on if it has to be original or more practical ... I decided to go the more practical way but also wanted to have a look that is at least a bit period correct. My bed is made of a laminated wood board (phenolic resin) which originally is used for trailers. That is very stable and wear resistant. So suitable for load use. For the look I made a grid that I easily can push in or out. Since that doesn`t see much demand, the wood choice is secondary (hard / soft / taste). Just another solution ...
  11. PT81Jan

    Droopy door handle

    Good idea ! I definitely will keep that in mind should the other side or this start hanging again. At least to consider for fine tuning the handle. In my case the wear didn`t only lead to the mentioned gap, it also let the (what I call) rotating piece slip over the slide latches edge. So it was hanging completely down and no longer possible to open the door. Thank you, Jan
  12. PT81Jan

    Droopy door handle

    Radarsonwheels, my PT had a hanging door handle on the driver side like yours. I really didn`t like that hanging thing, so I put it on to the to do list for the winter. But just some weeks ago the handle completely gave in and was hanging vertically down. I expected a broken spring. I pulled out the door latch assembly saw no obvious damage. After dismantling the latch assembly and figure out how these parts work together it was clear the reason was wear. Enclosed some pictures, which may help to understand and fix the latch in case yours has got the same problem: Blue arrows shows the edge which was worn. The green line indicates where the edge should be. I fixed this by welding material to the latch and grind it to correct length. Note: It helps a lot to draw the outlines to a board before welding (picture 4). So it is easier to grind the edge to the proper length. Picture 5 shows the worn edge (red line) which led to a gap to the rotating piece (green line) and thus to the wobbly/hanging handle Picture 6 displays the fixed edge. No gap - no wobble, no hanging handle 😊
  13. PT81Jan

    Relining the Emergency Brake at Home

    I drilled mine step by step - first that in the middle of the lining, then riveted that. Next holes left and right, then riveted them and so on. My first attempt drilling all the holes first did not lead to a satisfactory result. It was difficult to get the lining exactly into the band and correctly mark all the bore hole positions. Result was a slight deviation of the holes, the lining did not fit tight to the band. I used a lining from a tractor supply, no preparation needed.
  14. PT81Jan

    Fuel Guage Calibration 39 Plymouth

    Two things come to my mind: 1. might it be that the float is leaky ? Added weight from fuel would prevent that it floats on the proper level (I once had a float which was leaky although it was new) 2. I do not know if / how much influence your provisional cabling might have. So you eventually could use different lengths / sizes of cables to verify if / how much difference there is in reading ?
  15. Super nice car !!! I purely like your design ! ------------------------------------------------------------------- I have no intention to start a discussion what is right or wrong regarding pure or what is allowed and what not, so which may help the various views is: If someone today modifies anything you just have to wait a couple of years (or decades), then it is a contemporary 2018 modification and most likely accepted then ... 😉
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