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PT81Jan

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PT81Jan last won the day on April 27 2018

PT81Jan had the most liked content!

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About PT81Jan

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 04/12/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany; Friedrichshafen
  • Interests
    Especially Bikes and Cars of the 30s and 40s with Flathead engines (others are also welcome!)
  • My Project Cars
    - 1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck<br />
    - (1942 HD-WLA)

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    born 1971, married, children, 1st occupation: patternmaker, 2nd occupation: engineering technician
  • Occupation
    Designer / Engine Development

Converted

  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Still love my PT81

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949 profile views
  1. PT81Jan

    Gas Gauge

    Cool, I would like to have your `backward fuel system` , too ! The more mls you drive, the fuller is the tank ........ just joking As Plymouthy said, just swap the wires (red arrow). It will not harm your units. That is not a swap of + / - , but a indication reverse. Ground is (if additionally installed / blue arrow) for example at the body of the sender unit. [2-wire sending unit]
  2. link to that subject, posted last year. I`ve drawn some pictures then to explain the relation between float arm and gauge pointer. Maybe that helps to understand how to bend the arm. Worked perfect for me.Full when full. Empty when empty. http://p15-d24.com/topic/47976-adjusting-the-fuel-sender-float/?tab=comments#comment-508910 Hope this helps ? Good luck ! Jan
  3. TFC, that topic has been discussed here for example -> http://p15-d24.com/topic/45136-cracked-block-now-what/ Certainly one of the best solutions that you have. But of course nothing someone can do on a Sunday afternoon ... Welding would also be possible, but would require to pull and dismantle the engine. Also the right equipment and welding skill is required (cast iron). There are also endless examples in the www. Try a search for videos. I totally understand your wish not to pull the engine. So, since your crack seems not to be huge, I personally first would try it less troublesome: 1. Drain the coolant 2. Drill a bore to each end of the crack (to avoid it tears further). But I wouldn`t drill it completely through. Eventually you could get an issue with 6. 3. Carefully / slightly open the crack with a grinder (not too much ! Maybe 1/3 in depth) 4. Thoroughly clean the crack with a solvent cleaner. Dry the area with a hair dryer. Repeat if necessary. 5. Take a 2 component epoxy resin. Mix iron powder to the epoxy. Not too much, it still should be fluent. 6. Fill the crack with the epoxy. Maybe a injection will help. To make the epoxy temporarily thinner, eventually heat the area with a hair dryer. 7. Stick on a good adhesive tape Sounds more complicated than it is. My Dad did this at a crankcase of an light-aircraft (!) He had run it for several years with no issue. Good luck ! Jan
  4. AMAZON UK in stock £43.35 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kraftmann-7682-Extractor-Extender-Silver/dp/B00XGPVT2Y/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=brake+drum+puller&qid=1556393814&s=gateway&sr=8-7 ebay UK £58.02 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Wheel-Hub-Puller-Kit-5-legs-Extractor-Automobile-Tool-Wheel-Hub/233181317493?hash=item364ab08975:g:i-gAAOSwuG1cnKzq similar one John Reddie mentioned AMAZON UK in stock £29.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/450741-Heavy-Universal-Puller-Remover/dp/B00K30S1US/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=brake+puller&qid=1556394771&s=gateway&sr=8-6
  5. The spacers are supposed to adjust the outer bearing race in relation to the inner race / rollers. With the original differential installed, the outer wheel bearing races protudes slightly out of the flange. Then one or more flange spacers are needed (pic.1) If there is another ring and pinion (different ratio) installed, it might be, the wheel bearing race is slightly recessed. In that case a spacer ring is necessary (pic.2 no original equipment). Watch out to check left and right at the same time, adjustment has got effect each on the other side, since the axle shafts can move in the center area. I hope my explanation attempt is understandable (if not, pic.3 might help) pic.1 pic.2 pic.3
  6. You are welcome, SteveR NO, do not grind down the small tabs ! You can use them for proper centering. And you still need them to get the drum plate attached to the brake ring. If they were away, I think it would be hard or even impossible to rescue the brake drum ... Just brush them so that they are clean for the welding process. See also my comments in #6 I do not know your welding skills, in doubt ask someone who knows about welding (filler material, order of welds, etc.). A puller is highly recommended ... I indeed bought mine at Amazon, YATO YT-0602 Fits front and rear and is of good quality. http://yato.com/products/5/YT-0602 Wish good success Jan
  7. I made a schematic sketch / cross-section of the drum. Black lines is intended to represent the drum ring, which is cast iron. Blue lines what I call drum plate (don`t know the correct word for it). This is made of steel. The red arrow in the enlarged view shows the breaking point(s). So welding is just needed steel to steel. Nevertheless that has to be done careful, so that the drum ring doesn`t get too much heat and gets cracks ! Hope that helps, Jan Btw, cast iron can be welded, but luckily not needed here...
  8. Yupp, there were modern rims mounted when I got my PT. I do not remember the exact shape of the rims , but I think your assumption hits the nail on the head. (I went back to original rims, modern ones are difficult in combination with historic registration) Unfortunately I don`t have a picture from the inside of the drum, but I think `the other head` of the rivets is still there. Might also be that there is a weld from the inside ...
  9. I don`t know if your 37 Plymouth has got the same drums like my 39 PT. But I know one of my drums had separated last year, too. At mine it was no problem to weld it. Good welding skills provided ! The yellow arrow representative shows where it has been broken and welded (18 connections brake ring to hub plate). Important was not to grind off the connections, so it was possible to get the brake ring pretty precise centered. It even was not necessary to machine it on a lathe. Don`t forget to clamp the pieces tight together before welding. Also resist the attempt to grind the welds smooth. Strength / safety is more important than uniformity there.
  10. Hey Spencer, maybe in the wrong section, but NO, not wrong here in that forum. Anyway be welcome, this is really a great place to get answers, if you do not get ahead yourself and to share your experience, which may help other members here. Far away ? That`s relative 😉 Jan, very South of Germany
  11. I would die to have a spare ball and trunnion laying around, since mine started making noises. Unfortunately high shipping and taxes will not allow to do so ... (But that`s the way it is) So the value depends on the personal demand, local availability and where in the world that person is located ... Example: pumpkin with 3.73 ration 350 $. Finally all fees incl. something around 1000 € (1130 $)
  12. I placed my filter on the fender, driver side. Why ? I just did not know, where it originally is installed, so I was looking for a place, where it is easily accessible (maintenance) and gets a bit of cool air from the radiator. The bracket (red arrow) is mounted to the fender with 3 bolts. Tubes are of steel with copper coating. Both, inlet tube (blue arrow) and outlet tube (yellow arrow) got a loop to avoid breaks due to stiffness in combination with vibrations. I did not use a special tube bend tool, just a round bar with a big enough diameter to avoid constriction of the tube.
  13. Looks really good ! I like the shape and stance ! Keep us posted, please !
  14. Last summer I saw such a vacuum ventilator in a vintage US car at a meeting. Since then it definitely is on my wishlist ! Still have to find the right one for me ... There are some on ebay, mostly Trico, sometimes also other brands https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R1.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xvintage+cacuum+fan.TRS0&_nkw=vintage+vacuum+fan&_sacat=0 also google search `vintage vacuum fan` pictures https://www.google.de/search?q=vintage+vacuum+fan&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi_0-TTpcHhAhURiYsKHTcVAkgQ_AUIDigB&biw=1600&bih=763
  15. I guess your temp gauge pointer is stuck at 40 and you should apply a drop of oil to it !? No, just joking ... sounds like you have a really healthy engine there ! 👍
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