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JSabah

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Everything posted by JSabah

  1. After test fitting the seal on the yoke (before installing) I decided that it really didn’t seem like enough wear to be an issue or warrant a sleeve as it still felt tight. I did however take someone else’s advice who said that their method had worked for them when there was just a bit of wear. They said to spray several coats (build up) of rustolium rusty metal primer. Then wait a week to let it absolutely fully cure and then sand with a block until you can just see the metal - the low spots will obviously still be the primer. I used 320 and 800 grit and it felt perfectly smooth and level. Seems to have worked .... or maybe I just messed the 1st seal up as I had never done it before ?
  2. I just went thru this. The counter shaft I was told to use JB weld. The 3 bolts on the retainer collar originally had small rubber grommets, which I found on eBay (none of the typical suppliers had). I also used thread sealant on those bolts and the 2 lower bolts. New O rings at the shift lever pivots and a new rear seal along with a new gasket and a small amount of sealant and you should be drip free. While the drive shaft is off, have a look at the pinion seal on the differential
  3. Yes, I put the original transmission back in. when you say “shift lever” do you mean #1 below which I believe changes gears or #2 which adjusts the gear shifter travel (I don’t recall see any nuts/adjustment on #2 ).
  4. I removed and replaced the transmission on my P18 Special deluxe (3 on the column). Now that it is back, I took it for a little drive and while in 2nd, it popped out of gear. Is that a shift adjustment, or clutch - I cant imagine it is the clutch as nothing was touched and it was fine before. If the shift, would that be the operating lever/rod, or the gear selector rod? Thank you, Josh
  5. I think I have the angles correct and now I’m thinking about a lockout switch for the reverse rail on the transmission (NP420). I’ve found plenty of info on installing a brake light switch- which I believe should be normally open. I’d like to install a normally closed switch on the reverse rail so that power can be sent to the solenoid when in any forward gear, but that will open the circuit when put in reverse. I can’t seem to find what I’m looking for. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thank you
  6. Thank you. What speedi sleeve did you get and from who? Does it look like I’m in need of one?
  7. I found that oil is being flung from the pinion oil seal. I’ve ordered a new seal and have now taken the flange off. The seal looks relatively new (ie still shinny) but it is obviously leaking. The flange doesn’t appear to be too worn -if I slide the new seal over, it does seem tight and the rubber has to open up to accommodate the flange. (1) is there a speedi sleeve I should use just in case, or just try the new seal. (2) Not having the special removal tool mentioned in the workshop manual, what works? (3) What gear oil should I refill the diff with? pictures show flange, straightedge on flange for wear, old seal in place
  8. Took her for a test drive. No grind between 1st and 2nd, but still a little grind between 2nd and 3rd. Didn't fix it all, but 80% - maybe its an old car ? .Also, glad I changed that old smelly oil and added the correct amount of fresh oil anyway.
  9. Thank you all. Just drained what was in the Trans. Supposed to have 2.25 pints or 36 oz. only about 19 brown (muddy looking) smelly oil came out. Refilling with the MTL as advised and hopeful that will do the trick.
  10. Great info. Thank you. I think I’ll drain and refill the oil as a first step as I don’t recall doing so before. What is the difference (or what is better to use in a non rebuilt/original trans) - Redline MTL or 90wt ? Also, how much does the trans hold (sorry I don’t have the manual with me)?
  11. I don’t drive the ‘49 too often but when I do I get a little gear grind when shifting. I can minimize it by putting in the clutch, taking it out of gear and counting to 2 or 3 before putting it in gear. It now occurs to me that I should be double clutching... am I correct? This is for a ‘49 Plymouth Woody P18 with the original Flathead 6 and transmissions (3 on the column). Thanks
  12. Interesting article. I need to digest it a bit more but the second to last paragraph lists different factors .... one of which is how smooth you expect your ride to be going down the highway..... it’s a Power Wagon , so not too ?. Thanks. I’ll also look at the hamb- great idea.
  13. Hoping a u-joint/drive shaft expert (or just about anyone cause most know more than me on this subject) will chime in here. I measured the angles of my components with a angle finder as described above (see below). At what angle should my OD be? i will probably Ave to re measure as the rear axle has recently been off for leaf spring, axle and brake refurbishment and it has yet to be put down on its Rear wheels yet
  14. Thanks. 3 months ago, the floor was clean and the frame was a mess ?.
  15. Hoping to revive this topic a bit as I’m in the process of adding a Laycock overdrive to a ‘59 Dodge Power Wagon and have a few questions for those who have done this. 1. is there any torque on the unit /brackets? I’m wondering how stiff or soft the isolators should be and what material to make the frame out of. My Laycock has threaded holes for 3/8 coarse and Moss and those that sell isolators are 5/16 fine for some reason. McMaster Carr has several that will work but they range in weight rating (ant torque) from 75 lbs up to 300 lbs (weight). I plan on making a bracket /mount for the front addition To using the tapped holes at the rear- are both needed? 2. Attached is a pic of my setup (temporarily being held and aligned by wood blocks). As you can see, I’m using a flanged yoke and u joint to connect directly to the transfer case. My concern has to do with alignment. Right to left, I’ll pull a string line and put the OD in line but the vertical angle is what has me confused from reading this thread. I was going to angle the OD as if it were just replacing the drive shaft but now think it should be at either the same angle as the TC or ??? (Just confused). Thanks in advance.
  16. While trying to diagnose my charging problem, I saw my crank pulley doing this.
  17. Could this be the issue... watch the crankshaft pulley
  18. I gave the BR a tap. Didn’t seem to do anything. Thien I swapped out the VR with one from another car I just started working on - but I don’t know for 100% that it is good. Car didn’t charge unless I flashed it again and then only temporary again. disconnected the F and Arm terminals, jumped the two and checked voltage with a voltage meter..... nothing (but don’t forget that the amp meter had previously shown a temporary charge ... before it didn’t). I don’t understand why it would temporarily charge after flashing... is it even possible that a generator to work intermittently? BTW all grounds are clean and good
  19. My ‘49 has been converted to 12v. It was one but last night after a short drive my 1 yr old battery was dead. I suspected the generator (yes I elected to keep my originality) it the regulator. After reading other threads, I started my testing. 1st the residual voltage in the gen. ... I had 1.2v instead of the .5-.75 expected. So I re-flashed/polarized the generator - flashing the Arm terminal while the regulator was disconnected. Thought I’d check out the car and wallah- the amp meter now shows as it should (turn key/discharge; start car/ charge; let it run/slight charge). Went on to do a get more things/cleaning the engine bay and 15 minutes later I start the car and the amp meter shows that it isn’t charging. I find it strange that it worked after flashing then stops... can I loose polarity? Where do I go from here?
  20. Looking for sources for 230 flatheads rebuilt as I’d like to put the original engine type/size back in my truck (actually 3 trucks).
  21. I’ve just picked up 3 Power Wagons and in trying to figure out exactly what I have I found that one on the engines has a code that starts with an N306. I can’t seem to find anything like it on line in the engine decoders or lists. The whole engine number is N3066900AL (the last 0 may actually be a C). Anybody know what that engine may be from and if it is a 218 or a 230? Thank you
  22. As I mention another thread, I’m now the proud owner of 3 PWs. Now comes the time to decide what to do with them. My goals are to have them (1) get up to freeway speeds in short order and to brake similarly as they may be city trucks. (2) have a comfortable ride - not like a car.... but smoother than an old truck. (3) have some creature comforts such as a/c, heat and a nice radio Here are some of my initial thoughts: these are all 1954-1958 trucks. I’m told by the PO that 1 or two of them should’ve too difficult to get running. They all have their original 230 Flatheads. my concern is that even if I could get them all started and running well, that the “get up and go” may not be there as these trucks weigh close to 6000 lbs curb weight (without passengers or payload). I know I can do some fairly easy mods that may help a bit such as duel intakes, progressive carbs and duel exhaust, but I don’t know how those mods compare to (dare I say here) an engine swap with a 330 for which the PW suppliers have kits for and are somewhat common (or a Cummins diesel). even if I get the power I need from the engine, I’m not sure it will translate to the wheels as the differential is set up for more low end torque... which I’m not quite sure if/how to resolve. I have know idea where to start on the suspension then there are smaller things to sort such as the accelerator pedal is somewhat on the tunnel, which I find odd. Is that similar to other trucks? Does it just get taking used to or do I change to a hanging pedal box (again which the PW suppliers have pre made) advice and opinions are welcome and sought
  23. Anybody have any used books relating to the 1952 power wagon that they no longer need. I need to start learning about my new projects and have no experience with the PW. Owners manual, shop manual etc.
  24. Well, I’m officially the proud owner of 3 projects..... or 3 1952 Power Wagons. Since I know nothing about the PW specifically, you can be sure I’ll be seeking advice from the forum often as soon as I start these ... which won’t be immediately as I have another (car) project to finish and had to promise the wife some work around the house will get done first .... just another collateral cost
  25. I wasn’t able to find the receipt yet, but I believe it was just over 300. As mentioned before, I didn’t really have a choice
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