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JSabah

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JSabah last won the day on September 5

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About JSabah

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles,Ca
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Plymouth Woody

Converted

  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Interests
    Cars

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Real Estate Developer

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580 profile views
  1. A bit of persistence after taking a breather (and maybe a bit of ocd) and the heater is in and pretty much done except for the front hose and installing the fan motor. Now I can work on squeezing the fuel line in.
  2. Thanks for these. I ended up moving a bracket and shortening up the pivot rod (similar to your pic- but kept it in the other side.
  3. Thanks for these. I ended up moving a bracket and shortening up the pivot rod (similar to your pic- but kept it in the other side.
  4. Thank you.... sometimes not knowing what you are doing brings a different perspective Next one?!? Can’t even think about that. While this one was in for paint and new floors, I uncovered a little project that has been waiting for me while I did the woodwork- a 1965 Jensen CV8 (interesting car - google it.) but when I started getting into it, found I needed to take the body off and learn to make and weld ( I hadn’t welded since jr high with an acetylene torch) new floor panels .... now that car is on hold ‘till I get the Woody done ..... the Woody and the CV8 both came after I swore I’d never do another car after finishing my Daimler SP250 (another interesting car to google). When I’m done with these, I’m going to take up a hobby that takes less room and money- like painting or something... unless a ‘40’s or 50’s dodge Power Wagon comes my way 😲 Not the 1st time and won’t be the last time, I’m sure ... but I sure do appreciate your and everyone else on this forums help.
  5. Well, I guess I just needed to walk away for bit. Went to figure things out today and found that it wasn’t so bad. Issues 1, the throttle linkage was fixed by moving the bracket that holds the swivel for the pivot rod to the inner side of the carb and cut the rod shorter. Had to take the heater out and getting to those bolt was the hardest part of that job. Once that was done, the heater went in easier , without the cover and then I could slide the cover on to see where the interference was (fuel line but since I was at it I have the manifold a bit of extra room too. Here are some progress pics.
  6. VERY frustrating day yesterday. I suppose it was because I had such high hopes of getting the heater and duct is so that I can finalize the fuel line/filter (which for me for some reason feels like a milestone). Well, after modifying the duct and rerouting the hoses, I finished the rebuild of the heater box and went to put it in only to find that I must have done my test fit with the inner fender loose ‘cause the box doesn’t fit. Does anyone one know if the carbs (motorcraft 32/36) can be turned around so that the throttle linkage is inward (along with the fuel line). I’m not sure that will fix all my problems - just the linkage not fitting. I think I’ll still have to modify the heater box to clear. Am I missing something here? Other options? Sorry, just venting. Pictures below show how little room I have - linkage is not connected and cover to heater box is off.
  7. Thanks for the "pass". I am planning on using the 6v motors (even though what I read says to change them because voltage reducers don't work/last/???). I just thought that for somewhere between $6-$18/ea, I could save the trouble of having having to change burned out motors in a few years by reducing the voltage to them from 12V (new system) to 6 v ...since the draw/amps dont seem to be very high.
  8. I'm changing my car ('49 Ply) from 6v to 12v. I have most figured out but am a little confused when it comes to the heater blower fan motor and the defroster blower motors. I have a fresh 6V battery and double checked the voltage with my multi-meter. Then I connected 1 fan at a time with my multi-meter in between set at 10A setting and got the amperage draw (both at startup and running ) I also checked the resistance across the motor. These are the results: Blower Motor 3 amp (5.74 Amp @ startup) 2.8 Ohms Defroster Motor 1.38 Amp (1.69 Amp @ startup) 2 ohms This doesn't seem to me to be too big of a draw to use a voltage regulator BUT almost everything I read says that fan motors have too big a draw to successfully use a voltage reducer. I found the following which is described for fan motors and looks to me (not saying much) to be a viable alternative than finding new motors (both of mine work fine): https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Electric-12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Reducer-for-Motors,15824.html. Im not sure but this looks to have the same specs (although there are variations that frankly I dont understand) and is 1/3 the price: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/vishay-dale/rh0506r000fe02/70201528/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqeH0vd7J5AIVj8JkCh0VPgcCEAQYASABEgKSuPD_BwE Being in So Cal, I don't expect to need to use the heaters too often, but you never know and I'd like everything to work ...without starting a fire. Will the 2nd item work? Thanks
  9. I have completely new 6v harnesses as a lot of the old looked old and crispy. I’m sure under some of the old tape, I can find a nice piece. At the time I ordered the wiring there was a chance I was keeping the 6v system and knew I could use it for either. Only issues with the new harnesses - no bullet connectors and not sure yet if I need to change anything else (terminals, bulb holders etc)
  10. Yes tying to preserve as much as possible. I suppose I could cut it as you say, splice a new wire on and try to reinstall the sleeve wo that from the engine bay it looks correct - with the casing going through the old style grommet/holder. I’ve done something similar on another cars hood release cables- fixed the outer sheath with epoxy putty in an inconspicuous place. Worked great and still lasting. Just thought if it were easy to change the whole wire, it might be better than hanging a splice (even soldered) Yes i I believe it goes to the coil but that is from memory so I need to double check my pictures and a wiring diagram.
  11. If I recall the wire seems to be fixed in the stiff sheath.
  12. Forgot to mention, I am converting from 6v to 12v
  13. Below is my ignition switch pictures. You will notice the wire is damaged. I don’t see a way to replace just the wire (I have not tried taking it apart yet)....is it possible? I did a quick search on epay and don’t see anything that looks like what I have. If the wire can’t be changed, how much current runs thru this ( thinking I can save it with some heatshrink.... but would rather have the original wire appearance
  14. JSabah

    air cleaner

    Thanks. I believe they originally had about 95 HP. With the mods I’ve done if I get 10%-15% more it would be good therefore I think I’ll be lucky to have 115 HP.... and I think they probably used to measure at the flywheel not the rear wheels. I won’t worry about it for now. Thanks ... now back to air cleaners 😉
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