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JSabah last won the day on June 22

JSabah had the most liked content!

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About JSabah

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Los Angeles,Ca
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Plymouth Woody


  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Interests

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  • Occupation
    Real Estate Developer

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457 profile views
  1. That sounds like a lot of work (troubles). For a few buck it looks like you can buy nice new ones and for a bit less I could bead blast and paint
  2. Thanks. That looks perfect.... and a good source I didn’t know about for other items
  3. Im replacing all hard lines (Brake and fuel) with Copper Nickel lines and noticed that the old lines have what look like long springs over parts of them. I believe that they are shields of some sort (either heat or vibration/wear. Do others reuse them? are they available new? Are they necessary?
  4. I think that the flat part is under the toe board (and bubble faces down). If the flat portion were to be above the floor it would never seal as there are small wedges that would not allow it to seal .... ever. At least the other way, the holes will be sealed when not on the brake or changing gears 😲
  5. I think I found some clarity on a discussion in the truck section. Is it correct that the seal only works when the pedal is up and not being depressed ..... and the seal floats with the pedal shaft so that when the pedal is depressed it goes down and there is no seal for that period of time ... is that correct?
  6. I’m so confused... are you doing this from inside the car. Ok bubble down. Flat part is on the engine side or cabin side when done? Any way you can snap a pic? I’m working from under the car and the pedal is off the master cylinder....
  7. OK this may seem like a dumb question and maybe Im just having a brain fart but how (in what orientation ) does the draft seal go on and what keeps it in place? From under the car, flat portion against sheet metal with bubble down? From inside the car flat portion against the sheet metal with bubble up? My old one seems to have been from under the car with the bubble facing down, but there have been so many things not as they were supposed to be ... Thanks (a picture is probably worth 1000 words)
  8. JSabah

    Rear shocks

    I’ll check wit Napa in the morning.... i dont understand what is meant by “ BTW, it's normal for the rear end to hang lower than the shocks when they're not installed. If I tried to install the shorter shocks, I’d have to put weight in the car to depress the body/rear axle - then when the weight is released is seems that it would stress the shock....that doesn’t seem right
  9. So final assembly is supposed to look like this? can you confirm that the valve assembly is in the right direction.... also as long as it is all apart (other than honing the cylinder) how would you remove rust from the reservoir? Lacquer thinner followed by acetone, muriatic acid? Obviously before I put it all together
  10. im a bit confused too. I took some pictures of my master cylinder as I took it apart and had a seal on the push rod (see pic below). but from what I read above I think it may have been wrong and that seal goes in front of the valve. and the groove that my seal was found in is actually for the dust boot. Can someone please confirm - it would make sense as the old valve did have a seal on it (as part of the spring valve assembly)
  11. JSabah

    Rear shocks

    I ordered the rear shocks from Andy Bernbaum and I don't think they are correct. My old shocks have an extended length of 21.5" and the ones I received have an extended length of 19.5" (both have the same compressed length of 12"). I don't think I can get them on and if I did they would be in tension all the time. Thoughts or advice please ... Thanks, Josh PS. Ill call Bernbaum in the morning but wanted to get a head start with all the knowledge out there.
  12. It is possible, but I don’t think this happened, but because the shackle bushings were is so tight and hard as a rock, I could have swung the back of the spring when getting them out and possibly spread the front bracket a bit ... but I don’t think so. I can try and compress the bracket a bit with a clamp.... doesn’t sound like there should be any play
  13. He measured the old with calipers and double checked in his book. He said they were identical ... I think he said they were UB1
  14. I had the bushings replaced at a spring and suspension specialist. However, now when I went to reinstall the leaf springs, I have a gap of about 1/16” between the bushing (silent block in the front) and the bracket.... after torquing the nut/bolt. I wouldn’t think there should any play. Can someone please confirm? I was thinking of simply adding a washer. Thank you
  15. As I mentioned, I recently had my fuel tank coated (inside and out ) with the ReNu process because tanks for the ‘49 Plymouth Woody are not available- and mine was riddled with pinholes. In addition to the coating, I was planning on using some rubber between the straps and the tank when I reinstall so obviously the tank won’t be grounded. I have the bayonet type fuel sender and don’t recall as I write this if there is a separate ground lug but if not, I like the method shown in another thread of adding a ground stud. My question is , is there another reason to have the tank grounded (sparks, explosion?)? I recall being told when filling a portable gas tank (Gerry tank) to put it on the ground and not your car/trunk exactly for that reason .... just thinking I should make sure the sending unit is connected to the tank with no isolation.... thoughts?
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