Klinestine

I put the tank in over the weekend. It looks like it would take a fitting just like the two in the photos above. The original line was cut, and a new one was installed that is wider and routed differently, so I will have to use some rubber hose to rig everything together. I called over to Bernbaums last week, but that guy said they did not sell that fitting. Think autozone et all would have something similar, or do i gotta start calling the junk yards? @50net, you mentioned something about a fitting that does work?

The PO on my 53 Cranbrook had some jerry rigged gas tank put on the car that didn't really fit right and had clearly been cut and welded. It also used an different style sending unit with the fuel being pulled from there. I was able to buy one of the repo tanks for it from BernBaum. I've got a new gauge unit and hose and everything incoming. But the new tank appears to have a threaded connection in the bottom corner for the fuel pickup. Is there a specific fitting that i should be using there, or is any barbed male end threaded fitting i can find at like autozone acceptable? Just trying to figure out how may things may be original and how many are replaced.

I'm 28 next month and sitting on 3 Mopars at the moment. My dad raced Porsches back in the day, so I grew up around cars. That's him in the orange 914-6. Daily Driver is a lifted Jeep Wrangler. Did all the work myself. Parents bought it for me as my first car. couple year later, a guy up the street from me was selling a '74 duster. I had just gotten, so I quickly took that off his hands. Trying to find the time to do a frame off on it. Got the '53 two years ago from a guy near me who had it for a steal on craigslist. I've had to redo most of the wiring, but she starts right correctly now. Saving up to re-chrome the bumpers now. My pops is 80, but he still will come out and hold a wrench for me if I need a hand some days. I live in an apt, so I store all my stuff at their house and go there when I need to do some work. Not the best photo of me, but I had just gotten the motor running for the first time in two years and my buddy wanted to snap a photo.

Rich, That's my question. Everything else is identical except for that dashpot area, so I don’t know which one to use. The clean one is a Carter D6P2. This is one of the two that I commonly find listed for 1953 Plymouths (D6P1 is the other). But that was not the one that was on the car, it was in a box of parts in the trunk. The dirty one is a D6J1. From what I found, that is off older Dodges. That was the one that I just removed from the car. And I would not put it past the PO to have put the wrong carb on the car. He had the automatic choke disconnected and the dashpot disconnected on the one that was on the car. It’s clear is was a body shop and not an actual mechanic that did the work on it. They both use the same rebuild kit, and the plunger that came out of them is identical.

I got my 53 Cranbrook running the other day after two years of working on it, and it did great for like 20 minutes before stalling. I figured I had not got all the old gas out of the tank and that it got cranky with me, which is exactly what happened. Figured that after flushing the entire fuel system, I might as well rebuild the carb too, as it didn't look like it had been touched in years. When I bought the car, the PO had sold me a bunch of parts, including a new carb that looked identical on the outside to the one that was on the car, but seemed in much better shape. Almost brand new! they are both Carter B&B carbs with the correct type I dashpot. But inside, the well that the dashpot plunger sits in in different between the two models. I have no problem cleaning the one I took off as best as I can and putting it back in if I need to, but does anyone know which one is the correct on for the car? Or if I can just use either one on the car? The PO already did a couple wacky things to the car to make it run and throwing on a random carb he found wouldn't have surprised me in the least. Also, if anyone has any idea where to get the correct dashpot plunger I would be much obliged. The one I ordered doesn't match the one I took out of both or the ones from the manuals and is missing the check ball and vent hole through the center of the plunger. And the ones I have, the leather is all worn out on. New one is on the left.

From what I read on from the factory manual I have and the one you shared, I pour all 11 qts into the oil pan. Then, once you turn it on and the motor is turning, the pump will pump oil into the drive until it reaches capacity. There is no other way to get oil into the trans. From what I've read on the 100's of post, no one is every able to decide between a multigrade, an old straight 30 oil, or the Rotella oil. And then there is the whole fight over adding ZDDP. So I picked one, and if it isn't running right or I'm having issues, I'll switch it up. Doing a swap isn't that hard. But it doesn't matter either way if i can't put the drain plug back on the oil pan.

Greg G, I have the manual and read it through twice. Rotated the housing till I could pull the drain plug on that and it all came out like its supposed to. And that just a basic 1/2" copper washer I can get anywhere. I have the option filter, so its 11 qts. Spec was 30W. so I'm using 10W30 for now to see how it works out. Maybe run it for a couple months and send it off to Bob is the Oil Guy for an analysis. If it seems to run nice, that would be perfect, because its the same thing I use in my jeep and I can just buy it in bulk. between those oil guzzlers, I may just start buying it in 55 gallon drums! And the manual just says pour it all in and idle on hi until my oil psi gets to about 20. so that should be the easy part.

Have a 53 Hydrive that was running when i bought it 2 years ago, but kinda sat ever since. I finally fixed the issue that was the reason it sat so long and went to change all the oil out this weekend and hopefully start it back up and found two new issues. One is that the washer the PO used for the oil drain pan doesn't even have enough copper to make a penny, which is probably why the engine loved to leak oil. But because this thing is so jerry-rigged, i have no idea what size washer i need to replace it with. the thing i pulled out was a paper thin circle that's all kinds of bent up. Also, the PO went old school and cut the oil with kerosene. And its been sitting in there for the past 2 years. So I assume that my oil pan is going to be super clean. but do I need to worry about anything else being messed up now?