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dpollo

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Everything posted by dpollo

  1. '47 P15 Starter & Generator Rebuild, also Fuel Tank

    Starters and generators are pretty straightforward. Usually cleaning and new brushes will bring a generator back to life. Same with the starter, but brushes are usually OK. Look for wear in the bushings. Best, if you are new to the game is to find a GOOD auto electric shop. It is strange that both would stop working at the same time. Are there any other electrical issues which may have contributed? Like a bad main connection at the starter relay ? As for the tank, there are sources for new ones if yours is beyond repair. When you remove the fuel line from your tank, there is a little olive shaped insert inside the fitting on the tank which makes the seal between the fuel line and the tank's dip tube. Don't lose it !
  2. 1950 Plymouth Suburban chassis question

    Sorry if I got crossways, Josh , not all forum members are old and grumpy like me. I did take the time to look in the parts book for 50 but it seems that the Special Deluxe wood body had a catalog all on its own. These bodies were built by outside manufacturers so it is possible that the door checks were the same as other wood bodied units. ( like Ford)
  3. Remote oil filter leaking

    As I recall, some of the nuts are lightly pressed on. Others come off more easily so the fiber washer andyd mentioned is more easily replaced.
  4. Ignition key won't turn 1947 New Yorker

    My Pleasure. over 50 years ago I had a gray 50 Dodge ( D36). they were still quite a common sight. I tried to unlock someone else's twin to mine. It was nearly dark and some beer was involved. But here is a "true" story. A fellow approached his pale blue 52 Chev . The muffler was hanging down so he got down and wiggled it. The whole works fell off at the manifold and in disgust he pulled the pieces off and threw the whole rusty mess into a ditch. He then got in and put the key in the ignition. Some of you will remember that Chevrolets used a novel sort of switch that had to be turned to lock and the key removed. Otherwise, if left unlocked, you did not need the key at all. This one was locked and as he tried to get it unlocked he realized that he was not in his own car ! He got out promptly, located his own car nearby , got in and drove away. Imagine the surprise the owner of the first car got when he climbed in, turned the key, pressed the button and the unmuffled engine started with a roar......... Given the nature of GM locks of that era , the guy was lucky his key did not fit the first car.
  5. Ignition key won't turn 1947 New Yorker

    Maybe ( in a perfect world ) there are a dozen New Yorkers in the parking garage and you just got into the wrong one !
  6. Ignition key won't turn 1947 New Yorker

    Take a clip lead and go directly from the battery's negative terminal to the ignition coil's power terminal... not the points side. You may have to operate the starter this way too if the button won't work. It also may be possible to access the back of the switch. If it is the same as the Plymouth, there is a cardboard cover to prevent hot wiring. It is easily removed, then hook a clip lead from the center terminal to one of the others which will energize the ignition. There is a small set screw which holds the entire lock assembly in place. Remove that and the switch can be pulled out and down to make things easier to get at. Without meaning to sound like a smart alec, is it possible that the trunk key , which may have the same key way was used instead of the ignition switch key ? They were different shaped heads originally ....... but sometimes one would slide into the other lock.
  7. nice P15 Deluxe locally

    I agree, that is a NICE one.
  8. Fluid Drive Stalling

    It sounds like everything is fine except you might safely increase the idle speed. The fluid drive is not a torque converter so acceleration from a standstill in High gear can only be described as "majestic". As for creeping forward, for reasons of safety, the transmission should be put in neutral if the car is left idling with the clutch engaged.
  9. Straight 6 Engine 218 CI - Rebuild

    I doubt that a Canuck would get so far from home but here, a 218 has a 3 3/8 bore and a 4 1/16 stroke, very different from what we called a 217. It was found in Plymouth and the smaller Dodge from 1939 to mid 1954 when the stroke was increased and it became a 228 already in use in the larger Dodge. These engines were 25 inches along the head and shared bearings and gaskets with the Chrysler. As for Coolaidcop's car he can safely assume there are no practical differences between 48 and 49 but at this late date, as already mentioned, he should tear the engine down first to determine bore size and crankshaft journal size. My grandfather bought a new P15 in Feb. 49. It was a "coach" or two door sedan. I regret that I was unable to purchase it when he died in 1962. At that time it had traveled 55000 miles and the seats had never had the covers removed. A very nice car.
  10. Fire Wall Cable Loom

    I used my truck's fourth slot for the oil pressure line but if made it awkward to install the dash cluster because the oil line tubing was not flexible.
  11. 230 front crank brg

    You will notice on the casting which fastens over the front main cap to give the pan gasket a surface to rest on there are two straight slots where it rests on the block. Original gasket sets had two round neoprene strips which filled these slots. The o rings, when cut will do this job but so also would some silicone. Not all engines used the felt washer that Don has put in his reply.
  12. Cylinder Corrosion

    looks good to me.
  13. Noises?

    I have had a couple of high mileage engines where the chain rattled against the cover. Usually at idle speed. I also had one which jumped a link but it did not make any noise !
  14. Oil pressure relief valve

    The by pass filter works in conjunction with the oil pressure relief valve. You do not need a filter but the engine needs the relief valve or oil pressure will become excessive ( at least in an engine which is not worn out ) There is a very good Chrysler technical manual featuring " Tech" from about 1950 explaining the difference between engine oiling systems and is especially helpful in understanding the finer points of the Full Flow Filter system as used on the Chrysler six.
  15. I Can’t Help Falling In love...1951 Dodge

    I will defer to your research but my hands on experience suggests to me that a 54 V-8 Royal shares very few body parts with a 54 Mayfair.
  16. Steering Box Conversion

    The easiest fix is to replace the seal on what you have.
  17. Need some help with my rear brakes

    You have already passed the biggest challenge and that is getting the drums off. The backing plate has 5 bolts which you have already removed. A good swat with a hammer should get the plate off BUT you should clean any sand and dirt from around behind so it does not fall into the bearing when the plate comes loose. There will be several shims between the axle housing and the backing plate. These are for the bearing adjustment which should allow about .005 end play on the axle. There are two seals, outer and inner. If there are no leaks at present, then the inners are good. The outers are easy to change but if they are not leaking then they should be OK. It is likely someone put gasket sealer on the shims..... there is no gasket..... and that is what is holding the backing plates on.
  18. Langdon Headers

    Exhaust manifolds changed between 48 and 49 to fit the new body. Fenton headers , at least the two sets I have , are made to fit both 48 and 49.
  19. Hole in my head...

    half inch pipe thread up until 1957 when a smaller hole was used for an electric sender.
  20. clutch linkage to bell housing 48ply

    There is a flex plate which bolts to the bell housing with 2 5/16 bolts which supports the torque shaft which fastens to the frame at its other end.
  21. Chrome alternatives

    War actually started for Commonwealth nations Sept. 1939 so garyp can claim his car was a prototype to test public response. black out models in Canada did not make their appearance until 42 as in the US but there were some awfully plain janers from that era including some with right hand drive. I remember a 40 Chev which may never have been shipped. The owner had a lot of fun with it while his wife was learning to drive. this would have been around 1952.
  22. '50 Dodge Fuel Gauge Operation

    a shop manual once told me that the resistance about what you might get from a test probe between the gauge to tank unit and ground would cause the gauge to read about 1/3.
  23. '50 Plymouth arrived

    The 50 is my all time favourite. I have not been without one for 54 years ! You never get tired of that beautiful dashboard especially if the radio is installed.
  24. '50 Dodge Fuel Gauge Operation

    I have used a light bulb such as may be found on a front fender marker light in series with the gauge ( between the ignition switch and the gauge). It will glow dimly and reduce the voltage to about 5.5. Gauge linearity does not seem to be affected. If you need a replacement gauge for a 49 or 50, send me a PM.
  25. voltage regulator help

    The original equipment Autolites will give the best service bar none. That opinion is based on over 50 years of experience. Generally speaking : Without getting involved with numbers, the regulators used from 50 forward have the battery terminal on the opposite side from the other terminals and work well with all generators originally equipped with narrow belt pulleys. Earlier regulators have the terminals all on one side and will work with generators equipped with wide belt pulleys. Since you have a mixture of parts, it can become a try it and see proposition.
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