dpollo

maybe, my name is Pollock. I don't think he will hang up on you.

I am at Shawnigan Lake. I recently supplied Mark Lewis 3 of these starters so he could have enough parts to overcome his own difficulties. Contact him at Discount Towing ( Langford) 250 727 1142 mention me, and ask what he may have left over.

The Plymouth was a smaller car however, it shared many mechanical components with its larger cousins like axles and wheel bearings which made it more robust. In 60 years, I have changed remarkably few bearings and suspension components in Plymouths.

It is possible that the floor covering had an anchor which pushed into holes like this.

That certainly looks like what is needed. I did uotknow they were available new.

I think you are on the right track but it is a problem which could have serious consequences for the starter and starter drive.

I recently got a 29 Model Q Plymouth and it looks like WC 17789 fits that too.

A replacement cylinder, non stepped , is WC 17789 ( Raybestos) it has wide application and works well. needs only the small bolt holes elongated on the backing plate. It can be used front or rear, all 4 corners. On the rear you need either the hollow bolt line fitting, or the adapter used on pilothouse era rear cylinders.

I would re use the clutch disc you have. However, I would remove the "baffle" plate. Not all pressure plates have these and it has clearly been rubbing on the damper springs, which makes a lot of noise when the clutch is disengaged. The spring washers that caused you grief are not original but a flat non split lock washer was used. A regular split lock washer could be used also. Check the pilot bushing and re lubricate, sparingly with wheel bearing grease.

The engine pictured is from a 40 Plymouth and is a bolt for bolt swap except for two exceptions. 1... it has a 4 bolt flywheel where the D25 had eight. 2, it did not originally have the cast damper which is correct for D25. Dodge b4ya is correct, the bolts holding the front mount are incorrect however, the holes in the frame are slotted and the front mount can be slid backward so both the belt and also the timing cover can ride freely. First, however, the rear mounts must be replaced. In every way, these are the same as the USA Plymouth. Easy to get, but often too hard. In 1940, there was a lower doughnut moulded to fit. Subsequent, or certainly post war years had only a slim rubber washer and sometimes only on the left side. There is a large steel washer which goes under and if all is correct, it will contact the steel tube before the lower washer is put in a state of compression. When all that is done, your D25 will run quietly and without much vibration. These are only Frankencars in the minds of people who have chosen to ignore the engineering which made these very fine automobiles the best in the low price field.

that is a Canadian car, D25, no fluid drive note the 8 bolt flywheel, not found on a US 218, or the Canadian 218 in 40. However, postwar Canadian 218s have 8 bolts.

you are incorrect. I am referring to the axle gear and spider gear arrangement.

before you start messing with adjustments, excess backlash is often caused by the spider gear and axle gears. Notice in the illustration the washer on the axle gear. This is a non metallic material. The washers on the spider gears are bronze. Look there first. .008 backlash is ideal on the crown gear/pinion mesh. you need not disassemble anything out of your comfort zone to check these points, but first, see that the pinion nut is tight. Just tight..... and do not use an impact wrench on it.

To answer your original question this block can be bored all the way to 3 1/4 (+ .125)

Moparfun gives good advice. The key must be in the lock and turned part way before this is possible. If you have the original cover, you will find it was riveted in place, I am doubtful that it could be successfully replaced.

two reasons. rich gasoline mixture thins the oil adhering to the cylinder walls full choke reduces the effective compression ratio by limiting what is there to be compressed. Both these factors reduce the load on the starter. Propane fired engines do not get the oil on the walls diluted and can be hard to start in cold conditions unless a multi grade oil is used.

Well, Don , it saddens me that you have not found the camaraderie that I have found on this forum. Myself, I have the personality of a cactus but am pleased whenever anyone can take delight in learning what I have learned about our favored old cars. Maybe I can persuade you to hang in a little longer.

Talk to me about vacuum motors, I have been collecting them for years. Sorry guys, just Keith. He is one favour ahead with me. dp

You are missing the collar and chrome ring that the switch slides into and is secured by a single screw accessed from below.

When you said "clutch gear" I thought you were referring to the input shaft. If you can get new synchronizer rings ( brass) then replace your worn ones and all should be well. Just make sure the replacement rings are the same as your old ones.

The 39 was like the later models. It probably would be better to get the correct input shaft than try to modify the synchronizers

The shift levers on your trans suggest it was used in a '40. It is the 52-56 R 10 A field test of a swap meet overdrive unit is to put the overdrive lever as it is in the picture, put the main box in high gear, hold the input shaft with one hand and rotate the brake drum. (output shaft) It will freewheel anti clockwise but the input shaft will turn with it the other way. This indicates the roller clutch is working which is a fair indication the planetary are not jammed up.

Others have mentioned a vacuum leak . That might be the problem . Check under the middle runner on the intake. They can be prone to cracking. If you squirt oil over it , the oil will be drawn into the crack. You could also use propane but there is a significant hazard of fire.

Detergent oils are meant to keep clean engines clean. I think Doug and Deb are right unless you are prepared to pull the pan and have a good look. to answer an earlier question (now a moot point) Hydrive Cars have HYDRIVE written on the right side of the trunk lid, and have a neutral indicator on the steering column. There is, as I recall, a neutral safety switch on the transmission and a special filler cap for engine oil with some instructions as to refilling after an oil change. Canadian cars used the longer engine. Yours is a 228. 3 3/8 by 4 1/4. When asking for service parts, always specify the 251 truck engine. Parts outlets have been issued American specs and would list a 230 for your car which is different. The most obvious difference is that the cylinder head is 23 inches long. Yours is 25.

As soon as the kick down has been accomplished, the solenoid is ready to reengage the overdrive which happens when the driver releases the throttle, causing the balk ring to move, In this circumstance, the solenoid is drawing full current...... at a guess 12 amps. It can make a fair amount of heat but unless one was climbing a steep hill, it would be temporary and no harm is done. A set of points inside the solenoid returns the holding coil to use when the solenoid is reengaged..... maybe 3 amps. The second terminal on the solenoid is the ignition interrupter circuit. You must be careful not to mix these wires up.