classiccarjack

Hi Rich, After you install the new Alternator, can you please send in some pictures?

Those aren't cheap... That's for sure.

I am considering possibly using these rims on my wife's 1937 Plymouth Panel Project. A knucklehead cut out a portion of the original frame to mount "Corvair" suspension... BOO! I can't go back to original because of this butchery. I am thinking Volare front clip with cop car rims and a Red Ram Hemi.... Mrwrstory, please check your PM.

A very sad story. Your father was a jerk just like mine was. Fortunately, I am nothing like my dad, and my kids will enjoy a loving father....

I like your truck too... My Cummins trucks all haul very well. Very nice 1938, it's good to see one kept that close to original.

Let us know how things turn out.

If she used leather seals, you are 100% correct. I made the same mistake on a 1940 Dodge truck over 30 years ago, I didn't soak my seals in gear oil, and I put grease on them before I installed them. What a messy disaster! Lesson learned LOL

Andy, you are a awesome very helpful guy. I don't think that I have ever seen you be rude to anybody.

I concur...

Looking good...

All of us with multi carb set ups are.... BTW, I admire your work, nicely done. I can't wait to see the car when it's finished.

Why did Mopar use so many different air cleaners. I have a shelf full of them, and none of them match one another... Sigh

By the way, a lot of Hamb guys are really awesome. I have met several, and all of my experiences have been positive. I can't understand why anyone would bash the Hamb...

I will be doing a similar build. I decided to use the 1954 "oval exhaust port" heads. They will flow well. I will also use one of my 1954 4 bbl intake manifolds. This prevents cooling system issues, and also having to run the 1955 up camshaft. I don't want to build a expensive Frankenstein, so I am taking a smarter yet simpler approach. My cragar adapter is for the Caddy LaSalle 3 speed. I bought a 1937 top shift transmission, I am going to machine it to accept the later 1940's internal gears/shafts so I don't hurt it with my Hemi. Note: I am thinking of doing a second build, and machining a adapter for a real transmission (A833 Mopar). Everyone seemed to make adapters for weak transmissions back in the day, and currently for that matter. But a mild build should work in my case with the Caddy trans.... It's sacriledge I know, but it's the only piece of GM junk that I could find that would keep it simple, and put the shifter up close to the original location of my 34 Plymouth Coupe. If one of my extended bell engine blocks checks out, I will go the 354 1/8" over bore. I have a set of stock 354 rods and pistons that I can use. I have later blocks, but see nothing wrong with the extended bell set up. I prefer manual transmission set ups anyway... Please keep me posted on what you end up doing. PM me if you like. I have spent a couple of years researching and gathering parts for my set up...

I am very fascinated with this post. Oh... If only I could afford to buy it, and reproduce my Favorite Plymouth parts there.... But it's just a silly dream.

Did you locate a tailgate?

Thank you for informing us about the show.

I really want to see what you do with it.

Chebbie guys do funny things... A lot of them give up when they realize that they have to re-engineer the entire truck. I had one idiot do a number on my Forklift before I bought it(230 flathead in a 1969 Pettibone). They cut off all the linkage to install a Fuurd Carburetor. I put a Carter back on it and fabricated linkage back to it using a piece of threaded stock and two heim joints. Now everything works again!!! Yay.

When I was in the Army, and if I didn't have access to a safety cage to inflate the split rims, I would then inflate them with the ring facing down while putting all my weight on the back side. That way if it popped off, the ring wouldn't hit me and get trapped between the tire and the ground. I changed many tires and never had one issue. But they are scary until the rim seats with the tire... I think that I will weld a safety cage together, so when I change the tires on my 1937 1.5Ton, I won't be terrified...

Can't wait to see how this truck looks when completed.

I saved a Dakota Chassis for 15 years. I finally gave it away last year. I dreamed of using the chassis with a 1957-60 cab and bed. Family life said... No! LOL I am enjoying watching you figure it all out. Not always easy to fabricate stuff. I will try to stay tuned, just busy trying to get my new building up... Not much time to good off online.

I forgot to mention, you are doing an amazing job.

Too bad I am so late, I have like 31 or 32 Flathead engines here... No extra 265's or 251's(I WISH)... The 360 is a awesome engine. I ran one in my 1959 D100. I used the flathead six/Poly V8 bell housing. I was able to run the original driveline that way to keep things simple. I hand fabricated motor mount brackets that bolted to the frame. Later I found a Industrial 318 timing cover with the high mounted water pump, so I could use a mechanical fan. To set the timing mark, while using this type of timing cover, just put the engine at TDC on #1, and scribe a line where the pointer is. Then remove the balancer, and make a groove with a cut off wheel. It will look just like a factory line in the balancer. I use flourescent yellow marker or white to color the groove to make setting timing easy. I just traded off my last high water pump cover towards a poly 318 4 BBL intake. So I no longer have it. Sorry...

Please let us know if the MMO worked...