classiccarjack
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Everything posted by classiccarjack
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I am so glad that you are OK.... If my 1937 Plymouth Panel got smooshed, I would cry. I am still collecting parts for it. I really don't want to go through the searching thing again... I am short hood sides, rear fenders, a complete grille, and 4 "Plymouth" rims. This has been a long wait, I hope to find these parts someday, so I can finish the car and start driving it!!! I just hope that some idiot on a cell phone doesn't ruin it for me when the project is finished.
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Hmmmm.. I am going to have to try that trick someday! Makes sense too...
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I have a Snyder Cam and I love it!!!
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What is the limiting factor on mopar flathead rpm?
classiccarjack replied to Ajgkirkwood's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Please keep us in the loop... -
I love seeing that Aluminum Head!!! As long as regular service is performed, no worries about corrosion. Another thing that I have seen, is a piece of zinc dropped into the radiator, that way the zinc gets corroded, and the other metals are left alone....
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BTW... Welcome to the Forum!
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My wife and I were in La Mess(San Diego) and sighted a 1955 Dodge 2 Door with a hemi and a automatic with the one year only shifter on the dash. The car was parked In front of Soup Plantation. It was satin black with flames on the nose. A really awesome car!!! It appeared to be a grandpa taking his grandson and granddaughter out on a cruise. I wish I took pics of it....
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I have modified broom handles to work, and I also have gotten the transmission close, then had my wife release the clutch, so I could push the transmission in. Otherwise it's impossible to fit the transmission in if you don't have a tool, or a spare input shaft to align the clutch. I once did it by eyeball and got lucky!!! LOL
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I know that List Angeles had a plant in the late 1930's... Figured that one out while researching my 1938 Plymouth Truck.
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It must be your destiny.....
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For what it's worth, I am keeping my flatheads. I plan on driving back and forth between my properties in Kansas and California. Not concerned about dependability, at all...
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Your flathead is very dependable. The whole concept of "modernizing" your car to make it dependable makes sense if you own a vintage chevy six or Ford Flathead V8. Those engines had lots of issues that can be addressed with lots of $$$, so guys would toss in a 350 chebbie to address it cost effectively. A strong running 230 or 265 will run another 50 years if done right using a quality machinist for machining and quality parts. The go fast goodies or "speed parts" can be found. You just have to look for them. Otherwise buy them new from a Edgy dealer or Langdon Stovebolt... Keep us posted on your choice, and show pics!!!!
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Neat link, never seen it before, thanks!
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Blue71c, Are you on the HAMB? A double dipper just like myself? Hmmmm ?
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Andy is on to something here. I had a distributor that would lose spark as the advance engaged. Ended up being the wire to the points. I rewired it utilizing a multimeter lead. Problem solved!
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I know that more affordable brands are out there, as well as smaller bore brushes. But worth every penny....
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You are spot on Doctor! If anyone prefers to not take heed to protecting their engines perhaps will cry a river later when the ticking, sputtering, and power loss occurs from losing the use of a valve due to a lifter and lobe wearing away. It seems some folks know it better than the rest of us. Including engine builders like myself that have seen this destruction happen. And by the way "stock non high revving engines" were some of the few that perished. To each there own. I only give advise based upon in the field experiences, not based on what I "feel"....
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Great read! Thank you for providing us some really cool products to up the performance of the flatheads.
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Buy engine brushes to scrub it out. The kits come in various sizes and lengths to ensure that you get the oil passages cleaned out. Here is one example: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-61820?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-moroso&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0dHdBRDEARIsAHjZYYCkzmLV_LFb8E01egTIOMZ1QV9D0ZSoaW03nE-tdzfPpIq8XNfUdEoaAp__EALw_wcB
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You will be amazed at how much crap comes out of the block...
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My second attempt to respond... Sigh I agree 100%, make sure that you purchase a engine brush kit to clean out the oil passages. Worth every penny spent! Run the brush through the crankshaft oil holes also. I use a bucket with Dawn, hot water, and a couple of Tide pods tossed in it. After I scrub everything, I use a power washer to blast through every orifice, nook, and cranny... Make sure that the water streams out the opposite ends of the oil galleys. If it doesn't stream out, investigate as to why...
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Did you get the engine the rest of the way apart?
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Great to see you back!!! I will check out your site.
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I am not familiar with those rims. I wish that I could help offer some advice on how to properly remove the caps. They sure look PURDY!!
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It's very critical in the British cars. When Zinc was reduced in engine oil, the neighboring shop next to mine began experiencing constant lifter failures and cam lobe failures. We got together and figured out the issue, as both our shops were the only shops that built engines in the complex. I called Amsoil and the representative told me the news. My neighbor began using STP oil treatment to supplement the Zinc deficiency. From that day forward, not one more issue for him. I began using ZDDPlus or ZDDMAX. None of my Mopar Engines failed, but I heard of other makes having issues by others.
