classiccarjack

Ahhh.... Nothing starts off the day like a road trip! I am scrambling to load up. The ground is soft and I may not be able to bring everything that I wanted. My loading tools are sinking into the soil. Oh well, I will bring what I can for you guys to paw over... Enough gabbing, get packing!

331 Chrysler Firepower, a 23.5 inch Flathead, and a 3 Speed manual with a bell housing for a car..... So far...

Thank you Countrytraveler! I already have made arrangements with Reg Evans.

I am going to try to get stuff ready to bring up for you guys to look over. Unfortunately, I didn't get my honey dues done until now.... Oh man it's going to be a long night using a flashlight to load up the truck! LOL I was thinking if bringing an extra 230, a hemi, perhaps a parts Transmission or two, is this the sort of things that may be needed? If not, I will gladly save myself some hard labor into the night... I also have a differential for a 1 ton truck with the six lug rims. Please let me know if this is not what you guys like to see or need. thanks, Jack

I once owned GM stuff(that is how I began my car fetish back in 1985), and I will be hated for saying this, but they had the worst drum brakes out there. The only GM cars that stopped were the Buicks and Cadillac's.... I had a Camaro, well several actually, all predating 1974, and none of them ever stopped as good my 1973 Plymouth Cuda 340 did. I believe that your statement is true mostly because all the 4 wheel drum brake Chevrolet's I owned barely stopped. But my Cadillac's, well, two foot a 1964 Coupe DeVille, and your face is into the windshield. Just like a 1964 Chrysler will do to you. This is from my personal experience, not an opinion... I drove a 9 inch 4 wheel drum 1969 Valiant 4 Door for 8 years. Never once had issues stopping. But I sure did heat crack those poor shoes! LOL

Glad your health has improved. It really bums me out when a fellow hobbyist gets ill....

7MM is all you need. 8.5 MM is for systems producing 100,000 Volts + of spark. Like a race car or a later high power ignition system aided with a MSD or something comparable... I was able to get 6000+ RPM's out of my small block powered 1959 Dodge using 7MM wires, a ACCEL super coil, and good ol' factory Mopar points. I really can't fathom the need for 8.5MM wires on a flathead.... I modify every engine I own, and I only used 8.5MM on my old race car. But we can only give advice. It's your car....

My Plymouth was not built in LA. My 1939 Plymouth Truck had the number on the left from frame horn. To be honest, I had to wire wheel deep to find my serial number. Seems like the factory paint "hid" them from me.... Hopefully this will be the same case for you.

Both Don and Dartgame are right. Be sure it's not too much resistance after the vehicle gets to operating temperature. This is why... I chased my tail on a customer car once. Once his car warmed up the spark would cut out and cause his car to stall. When cold, he had about 7.75 VDC. Once it warmed up initially, it dropped to 5.98 VDC. After it ran for 30 minutes, it would drop below 5 VDC and start causing the engine to cut out and sometimes stall. We both thought it was just running out of gas at first, then I finally figured it out... I know that this is TMI, but I hope it helps someone in the future....

Wonderful! I am glad you got it dialed in.

I have purchased parts and ended up not using them myself. Mostly because I was a lemming and thought it would be easy. Then found a better way and had new stuff to sale at half of what I paid for it.... The last car I built, I did everything ugly, drove it, worked out the bugs, and then tore it down to restore it. I think that it was the best approach. Assembly was fast and everything worked out perfectly! Yay I think that I have one of those bell housings that you have mentioned. PM me if you like, I am sure that we can work something out cheap or trade.

This just happened to me 2 months ago! It ended up being a defective Pressure Plate in my case. I cannot speak on your behalf, but I hope that you get this resolved soon.

That is where my 1938 Plymouth is stamped.

Plymouthy Adams is spot on. I have found burned up points on cars that have had 12V conversions done. I always use a ballast resistor on my projects and or resistor wire for the GM guys. Points installed by me last like they should. And protecting your points is important. Getting stranded is no fun! I hope that Plymouthy Adams information is beneficial to you. It really is good advice.

Is it possible to mount a booster from underneath? Is there enough room? Has anyone attempted this feat? I have always done "original" restoration work in the 1930-1940's.... So I honestly don't know. Sorry for my ignorance if it has been done. My 1937 ME32 Dodge Truck is being upgraded to the larger 1939 Drum brakes, using the original master cylinder, and adding a brake assist from a 1951 2 ton truck. I was able to get the shoes relined no problem, and I had everything sleeved in stainless steel because I am lazy and only want to do this job with these heavy brakes one time. I got all new rubber hoses cheap, and the steel lines are all being scrapped for Copper-Nickel lines. I hope that my money spent was wise... When I was younger and dumber, and I really mean dumber! My 1959 D100 had an all original braking system with the two half wheel cylinders up front. I had a radical 360 in it that would put the truck sideways violently. I was in my mid twenties then, no family, and ran VP Red in it due to its 11:1 compression ratio. The only thing that I can say, even stopping from pushing it up over 100 constantly, is that those drums never let me down. I towed with this truck too, the brakes never faded.... I broke 4 Differentials, 2 Transmissions, and wadded up one driveshaft and twisted it in half, at speed, and somehow traveled backwards at 80+ and survived. Did I mention that I was young and dumb once? Yeah... Never again! But the brakes worked great! LOL. Thank God I finally grew some brain cells and grew up a bit! And never hurt anybody! For what it is worth, I never put one dent in that truck..... It took a lot to admit that. But then, this is why I am no longer careless and more careful. I did learn from my mistakes....

My thoughts are "wow" that car looks so awesome! I really like it a lot. I am curious about it too. I want to learn more about it.

What should we bring with us for the BBQ? We are traveling to far to bring anything that will keep. Any suggestions?

Truck is repaired an serviced. Next step is to load it up tomorrow... We are very excited!

PM sent, thank you this is very appreciated! That air cleaner looks fantastic.

I just received a request from a friend. Does anyone going to the tailgate BBQ have an Original tall oil bath air cleaner that will fit a Stromberg on a 1949 Dodge car? It has the bracket that comes over from the cylinder head that bolts to it. Ironically, all my extra air cleaners do not have the special clamp for the beveled edge on the top of the carburetor. It seems that most of my 1 Bbl's have a straight edge with no bevel on the top except the three that I have no air cleaner for... Please Help! He is willing to purchase the air cleaner. What has happened is this, some mechanic shop took his original and tossed it to put a chrome cheap air filter on it. They claim that oil bath air filters are a fire hazard.... Seems like most younger folks are very ignorant nowadays.... Despite his efforts, the original air cleaner cannot be retrieved. Thanks guys/gals, any help would be appreciated, he is a kind good man.

It certainly has gotten my butt out of a bind more than once.... Great source for vintage dealership films! Techy is my hero!

Casper50 nailed it with his you tube link.... Thank you Casper.

The three carb set ups are made for the big six. I am going to run triples on my 265 and doubles on my 230. Can't wait to get these projects started. I am still collecting parts.

When I owned my automotive restoration business, we tackled some deadlines using up to three people to get it done. However, I built show cars and everything had to be pretty. Perhaps a mission like this is possible if looks aren't important. The biggest "Time Bandit" other than fabrication, will be dealing with the electrical side of it. If he keeps the fuel injection intact, there is going to be some time spent doing it right.

Lizard skin is an amazing product! I highly recommend it. Being that it can be applied similar to the way that paint is applied, you can get it in all the nooks and crannies... It really works well, and seals off the surface to help prevent rust. I have used Dynomat and Lizard Skin. Lizard Skin takes a lot more prep work to apply, but we'll worth it.