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motterso

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motterso last won the day on September 18 2017

motterso had the most liked content!

About motterso

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    Member

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  • Website URL
    www.dogwalkfinds.com
  • Biography
    trucks are cool
  • Occupation
    yes

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Lakeville, CT
  • Interests
    dogwalkfinds.com
  • My Project Cars
    '50 truck, '58 townwagon, '53 Plymouth, '48 Frazer, dogwalkfinds.com

Converted

  • Location
    Lakeville, CT
  • Interests
    flathead 6, dogwalkfinds

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155 profile views
  1. Has my 218 ever been rebuilt?

    Pistons would be stamped with the oversize (.010, .020, .040 ...) and rod and main bearings would also have numbers corresponding to the undersize of the crank. No numbers on pistons or bearings would mean likely all standard - but measuring will tell you for sure.
  2. What is it not doing properly? Might be more of an electrical issue than mechanical. The R10's are pretty tough.
  3. Engine swap

    That trans is very tough - should handle increased power with no trouble. Bolt pattern on the 291's bell housing will likely be different, so plan on some drilling and tapping.
  4. No Idle, etc

    I just pulled the relief valve assembly out of 2 running engines and the valves both look like the VPW one you have and the springs are both 2" long. Try the 2" spring, but if still no good then try the shorter one.
  5. Dodge truck not in film

    Cool trucks! Looks like an International sneaking up on them at about 2:45. I wonder how that one did?
  6. No Idle, etc

    If the valve is too short (or just wrong) then your oil pressure is pushing it closed instead of pushing it open against the spring. You need the correct piece in there in order for it to work properly.
  7. No Idle, etc

    From the July 1949 Kaiser Frazer service manual pages 25 and 26 (they used a Continental designed 226 ci flathead 6): "...if the valve sticks and cannot be removed with pliers, a wooden wedge may be used. To make the wedge, cut a slit in the end of a piece of wooden dowel stock and insert a small wedge into the dowel just far enough to hold the wedge securely (fig. 34). (4) Insert the tool in the hole in the block and into the valve. When tapped lightly with a hammer, this wedge will spread the dowel inside the valve. Remove the dowel and the valve which is wedged tightly on the end of the dowel. Caution: Do not use a metal dowel as it may expand the valve, distorting it to the point of making removal difficult." This trick works well and I've never seen it in any other manufacturer's service manuals.
  8. distributor question

    The Langdon HEI unit is very good. http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043/category=18665979
  9. What year/model did I buy?

    Nice looking truck. The front bumper and parking brake are correct for 1950, so the model is a B-2-something, originally probably a B-2-C-116 judging by the overall size (definitely not a D100 as you already know). Looks like you are missing the inside metal trim around the windshield (3 pieces). You're missing the throttle cable (should be the right-most knob just to the right of the choke knob) and your glove compartment pull. You probably already know, but that plate in the dash to the left of the steering wheel is the radio delete. Missing options (that most trucks had) are a driver's side sun visor and a heater. The exhaust has been rerouted - it should stick out on the passenger's side in the back. Looks like someone "upgraded" both axles, but it looks good with the wider stance. It's a longbed (bed is 7.5 feet?)- looks like the wheelbase is 116". If the wheelbase is 126 then it is likely a B-2-D-126. Is that data from johnsartrain's post correct? Send a picture of your data plate (on the driver's side door post if it's still there).
  10. Where do you buy door checks?

    Try DCMclassics, they have a couple of different designs. https://dcmclassics.com/interior-parts/510-i-137-48-door-stops-pair.html
  11. distributor question

    That sounds like a very worn out distributor. With that much wear you might have issues with the bearings in the distributor also. Those distributors are very common. Should be able to easily find a nice one from online auctions if you're careful or go to someone who can guide you like Roberts Motor Parts. Another option is to install a pertronix kit - they are really easy to install and you won't have to worry about points, etc.
  12. No Idle, etc

    Gauge can connect to any of those ports in the gallery, they should all show the same pressure. Looks like you have your oil filter connected correctly, too - nice work, a lot of people get that wrong. You do not have to worry about air in the line to your gauge. Your gauge looks like it needs to be recalibrated, but it is likely not beyond help. Regarding your high oil pressure - I would guess that the relief valve is stuck or that the piston used is incorrect or that the spring is too stiff. Looks ok in your picture, but the piston is clearly different. The relief valve is there to keep the pressure down, and the pressure it sees is from that same oil galley you have the gauge connected to. Not much else it could be. Rough idle is likely either bad idle circuit in the carb, bad timing of distributor or vacuum leak as others have suggested. The whine in the video sounds like the alternator, not a vacuum leak, but that doesn't mean you don't have a leak. Check your timing, check the centrifugal and the vacuum advance in the distriibutor. The vacuum advance is often a problem - both the vacuum advance and the line going to it can leak. If you aren't sure then plug the line at the manifold and see if you can get the idle to settle down. Also make sure your manifold is bolted correctly to the block (and is not leaking) and that your carb is not leaking where it attaches to the manifold.
  13. Piston Orientation

    For a flathead that slotted side should go towards the distributor (which would be the right side of the engine if you are looking at it from the front). Numbers stamped on rods should go towards the valves.
  14. Info request?

    Assuming you do not have a posi rear (which you most likely do not), only one rear wheel needs to be off the ground, trans in neutral (vehicle safety chocked of course). Rotate the raised wheel exactly two full revolutions and count the number of turns at the pinion. # of Pinion turns = your ratio. It is hard to do exactly, but the expected number should be 4.11, 3.73, 3.55 ...
  15. Rear bed cross member layout

    I just put one of these together for a B2C116. You should have 4 cross pieces and the 2 in front should face forward (flat side of the U channel to the front) and the 2 back ones should face the back. The 4th one back (the last one before the tailgate) is shorter than the other 3 and only has 2 bolts in it going all the way through from the top (wood) through the holes in the frame. Also, there are only 6 bolts total holding the bed onto the frame - you use the first cross piece, the second and the 4th. From what I've seen the factory did not put bolts in the third one back from the cab. http://dogwalkfinds.blogspot.com/2017/08/the-hackenberger-experiment.html I
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