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motterso

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motterso last won the day on September 18 2017

motterso had the most liked content!

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  • Website URL
    www.dogwalkfinds.blogspot.com
  • Biography
    trucks are cool
  • Occupation
    yes

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  • Location
    Lakeville, CT
  • Interests
    Look for dogwalkfinds on instagram, blogspot and youtube
  • My Project Cars
    '50 B2C truck, '58 Townwagon, '53 Plymouth, '48 Frazer, dogwalkfinds.blogspot.com

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  • Location
    Lakeville, CT
  • Interests
    flathead 6, dogwalkfinds

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  1. Another option is an HEI conversion. Langdon's Stovebolt sells a kit: http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043/category=18665979 I'm running this now in a '53 Plymouth. You do need to convert to 12volt negative ground, but you might want that anyway if you plan to run any modern accessories.
  2. You can get the timing right no matter where the oil pump is installed, but you would need to figure out which contact the distributor is pointing at when you are at TDC. There is plenty of adjustment as long as you plug your wires in appropriately. Best practice is to bolt on the oil pump (and roughly time the distributor) while the head is off so TDC is very obvious, but it is never too late and there is no way to put it together where it can't work - you just need to start the wires in the right spot. Assuming you have the timing gears and chain in correctly (and it sounds like you do since you say the compression is good) then you just need to get the distributor timing right. Do double check that your 153624 is going clockwise. Of course "a little finicky" might be a fatal issue. If the bushings are too worn (or many other issues) then your distributor will not put out a dependable spark. It should be relatively easy to get your distributor working well, but if you want to do a little upgrade Langdon's sells a really nice HEI distributor that will fit right in. You'll still need to time it right though (and you'll need to be running 12 volts). http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/online-catalog/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043/category=18665979
  3. Go all the way in (gently so as not to ruin the needle) and back it out 1.5 to 2 full turns. That should be a good place to start. You will want to fine tune afterwards.
  4. "Tech" is the best! His gritty good sense is very educational. Thanks for the link to that index - lots of good stuff there.
  5. motterso

    IMG_3449.JPG

    © dogwalkfinds

  6. I took out the Gemmer steering box and installed a GM 525 Steering box (PN 91032277 from Speedway). Made an adapter plate so I could use existing holes in frame. I used just the top end of the old steering shaft and attached with a u-joint. Also had to expand the end of the steering column tube (using a piece of exhaust pipe). Steering is much improved, but had to hook up the horn button and wire down the side of the steering column. I would guess that one of the universal steering columns would work well for this, too.
  7. inline tube has everything. perfect fit. brake lines https://www.inlinetube.com/_p/prd14/2914378771/product/48-dodge-pickup-3-4t-b-series-brake-lines-cdb4801 and fuel https://www.inlinetube.com/_p/prd14/2914386041/product/48-dodge-pu-3-4-ton-b-series-fuel-lines-cdf4801
  8. Something like these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Tank-To-Frame-Mounting-Kit-12-Pieces-Stainless-Steel-Ford-Passenger/113002608033?hash=item1a4f7af5a1:g:QTAAAOSwj2RbAC44
  9. I just had the same problem. There just isn't enough room to put a grease fitting there at the center. I got a right angle fitting to fit in the front after grinding a bunch off of the top of the fitting. The back u joint I could only get a short, straight fitting to fit, which will be a problem when I need to grease it. The originals had the fitting on the side, angling out so a simple straight fitting worked fine.
  10. Just to make sure - you might inspect all the brake drums and see if one might be cracked. Pedal movement (with steady pressure from your foot) can be a sign that a brake drum is out of round or broken. Another good reason to upgrade to a dual master cylinder when time allows.
  11. Yes, absolutely the best way to go to improve performance - and easy, too!
  12. 230 crank + 218 rods + custom pistons = flathead 6 stroker. measure carefully.
  13. If this is a fully functioning vehicle then $6,500 seems pretty reasonable. Ad doesn't mention whether the brakes work (gotta assume they don't), but if they do and there isn't anything else wrong with it then this is not a bad deal.
  14. That bolt holds the white metal flange that the oil pan seals on. There are 2 of these - one bolts from the outside (you probably already got that one) and this one that bolts from the inside. Unfortunately, you will need to drop the pan top get at it.
  15. Should just be 2 bolts holding the oil pump onto the engine - nothing more to it than that. Sounds like you are trying to take the pump apart while it's still on the engine, not a good idea.
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