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Jakub last won the day on May 18 2017

Jakub had the most liked content!

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About Jakub

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/30/1997

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Siemiatycze, Poland
  • Interests
    Classic cars, photography
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Convertible, 1966 Gaz M-21 Volga, 1971 Mercury Cougar Convertible, 1936 Packard 120 Touring Sedan, 1956 Continental Mark II, and two bikes: BMW R-35 and M-72


  • Location
    Siemiatycze, Poland
  • Interests
    Photography, Classic motoring

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  • Occupation
    Medicine student

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341 profile views
  1. Hello; As restoration of my P15 convertible is now going slowly, but steadily, I have some questions of "how should it be" kind. First of all, the rocker panel line. Should door to rocker panel gap line continue into rear panel (1)(I don't know what's proper name of it; place where 4 - door would have it's rear door...) or should it blend with it?(2) Second - rocker panel moulding. I suppose that there are some retainers or clips; I even found some on E-bay, but I don't know how the moulding should fit. It seems to be wider than the most outward part of rocker; should it be mounted aslant(B), to touch the lower part of rocker panel or make some kind of overhang(A)? And, last but not least - interior of rear fender. How much frame should be covered by inner fender? What's the proper shape of it? How deeply should it go? I'd be very grateful if someone could photograph those elements.
  2. Some time ago I posted a topic about soviet copy of Flathead six, which then turned to OHV 4 etc. In one of improvements, it was equipped with enclosed crankcase, without PCV. The oil filling tube was simply elongated, and then, via rubber hose, connected to air filter, to the "filtered" side. The breather was also connected to air filter, but to "non - filtered" side. It's probably the simplest way of removing fumes from underneeth the car. Noone ever complained about it; I've never heard of problems with sucking oil out of engine or backfire problems, even though many of these cars ran on very low quality LPG instalations. And that's how it looked like:
  3. Maybe try shipping it for re - chroming to a "cheaper" country? I don't know what are the prices of chrome restoration in US, but in Poland, in the best-in-country chrome shop I paid eq of ~~ 400$ for Packard hood ornament. So, maybe try looking for chrome shop in Mexico, or even ship it to Europe? That's the website of company mentioned above: http://www.tecechromowanie.pl/7/home
  4. It's possible to convert factory radio to play music from any source (supplied by mini - jack), using only original, electron valve electronics. If You have working radio (in most cases, the only repair needed is putting new capacitors in it), the only thing to do is connecting the wire to amplifier section of radio and disconnecting the antenna. I've done it with mine, of P-15 - although it's not mounted in car yet(it's looong way to make it "car" again), the table - tests gave splendid results video-1547058615.mp4
  5. Jakub

    White top

    You can also make the cut line on the top of "A" pillar. Just like on that car: or a little lower, in the narrowest point of pillar.
  6. It answers. But still, IMO, I'd rather spend one weekend in garage, than buy a one-month-salary tool. I mentioned that, because it seems to me that common opinion about those brakes is "It's impossible to adjust properly without tool". It's possible, but time consuming. That's all.
  7. Yes, once. It took me two days. After that friend of mine told me about that guy.
  8. Plymouthy - that's possible. It's also possible that you would have to pay the same tax as when importing new car to Europe (19-23% tax, depending on country and around 25% of another tax, for cars with engine larger than 2 liters; for antique is 8%). Isn't it Belgium that, when You have antique car, you pass the MOT only once and forever? That's how it works in Poland. Also, about shipping heavy and large items from US - get in touch with company that ships cars from the US. For a small fee, they may put Your parts in the trunk of cars they are moving. What about adjustment, recently I met a guy who was working as a mechanic from early 70s. Lockheed brakes was very common in Eastern Block countries. Noone ever heard about the special tool, even the 50s car mechanic textbooks don't mention existance of that item. He perfectly adjusted brakes in my Volga (almost identical to those in Plymouth) in about one hour.
  9. On the hubcaps and some minor details of my Packard, I used marker with oil paint. Something like that: http://www.sharpie.com/markers/art/oil-based-paint/SHOilBasedPaint.html but probably made by different company. I bought it in local stationery shop. By now, it's 8 years since painting, and still looks great. I used to "flood" the place which I wanted to paint, and then distributed the enamel with toothpick. Excessive paint was removed with acetone-soaked cloth when paint was "semi-dry". Also, after it completly dried, polished it with compound, to remove some minor paint spots. But, I wonder how was it painted in mass production. Any ideas? I doubt that there was a room with one hundred ladies with brushes...
  10. They should be easy to buy in any tractor - parts store, I think that any tractor uses them. If no, It's required by law (at least here, but it should be simillar in US) for any motor boat to have it - so marine shop it's the next place to stop by. I have one in Packard 120, also battery under the seat. I mounted it on the seat frame; but REALLY IMPORTANT is the proper wiring. By "proper" I mean really, really thick - thickest You can find. If it would be too thin, the car wouldn't start when the engine is hot - the starter would engage and start cranking the engine, but there won't be any spark. I had that problem in my Packard, even thought about converting it to 12V, but welder - wire was the solution.
  11. Many older engines have the same problem. My P15 is still under restoration, but I have some experience with my "Volga", which also is a little rough when idling. The engine was designed to use 72 octane gasoline. What helps? Increasing spark plug gap, much above factory advised values - "Volga" should use ~~ 0.35 mm gap; Increasing that to ~~ 0.8 would help. But only a little. What really helps, is simply driving car a lot. When I started using it as a daily driver - all idle problems were gone.
  12. There are companies restoring carbs in Europe, I heard about somebody in Gdańsk who does great job. I think that's the best solution. Using european carb could be hard, because 3.6 liter engine here was rather ultra - luxurious and often used two carbs or some kind of injection. However, the Mopar Flathead was copied in Soviet Union and used in truck "GAZ 51". K22 carburetor would probably be plug and play. Also, this engine was shortened to four cylinders and manufactured till mid 90s, the latest ones used "Weber" from Fiat 125p. Look for "Żuk Weber". Also, the carburetors from Volga or UAZ (K-126, K-129) would be cheap and simple to buy and probably easy to install. But they are not much modern than original one, I think. They should be common in Germany, as whole DDR army used soviet - designed automobiles
  13. Simplest way is to use kind of felt-tip pen with oil paint - I used it in for my Packard hubcaps and bumper letters and it looks well, right now it 5 years old and still looks great. It also can be easily removed with acetone. I did it this way: First, I "flooded" it with a paint, then used marker to spread it around and then distributed paint with a toothpick to corners and other minor parts of element. After it dried, I removed excessive paint with ear swab putted in acetone or nitro.
  14. It was a common practice to remove thermostat for summer... My grandpa did it even in early 2000s, having a 1989 3-door Samara 1500. IMO, it doesn't make any sence - i made an experiment in my Volga one year ago - on a sunny day I drove with thermostat, then removed it and couldn't see any difference. There was a difference at night - car couldn't reach right temperature, it stopped around 50 degrees, while with thermostat it's like 85. Also, I see no point in using a restrictor plate - it makes the same for a flow as a thermostat, but the thermostat would let the engine reach operating temperature more quickly.
  15. IMO, coupe wasn't the "sports" version of any car back in 30s and 40s (maybe in late 50s it started to be) - it was often the cheapest body style, due to simplicity - only two doors, few windows, one seat etc, and noone considered is as a "sports", especially in US. In Europe situation was slighly different -as having car was the luxury for average man up until 50s and in poorer parts of Europe- 70s, having car that's not utilitarian and is wasteful was synonymous of prestige. Opposite to America, coupes were always more expensive than sedans (eg. Citroen TA coupe, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Wartburg Coupe etc.). Even the cheapest cars- 2CV, Messerschmit, Mirkus, Zaporożec, Volkswagen, Fiat 500, Trabant, Fiat 126p, Renault 4 etc. all could (theoretically) accomodate 4 passengers, while chepest bodies in US were only two-seater business coupe. And is a coupe a 2 door? Well, it was but now... anything goes. For example, Audi A5, A7, VW Passat CC, BMW 4 GT, Mercedes CLA etc. - all these cars are advertised as a "4 door coupe". And what they really are? I'd call them fastbacks or so...
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