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About doogan

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Cumming, Ga
  • Interests
    1930-1950 vintage vehicles
  • My Project Cars
    1949 B1 Pilot house pickup<br />
    1930 Model A coupe<br />
    1931 Ford panel delivery

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    71 years old
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Cumming, Ga
  • Interests
    Hunting, Fishing, old cars

Recent Profile Visitors

242 profile views
  1. Boxing frame

    OK so would your opinion having done these updates, be go forward with them or use some other chassis setup such as S-10 or comparable frame? Really just thinking of building one for higher highway speeds and A/C. Not planning of changing my current B1B, just having another to play with.
  2. Boxing frame

    I'm just curious about strength of the 1949 B1B frame. In the event I decide to replace my engine, trans and rear end with a v8, 4 speed and some diff rear end, is the frame strong enough as it is or should it be boxed? I'm just pondering the idea of a 318, 4 or 5 speed and an updated rear end. I have an extra frame that I could experiment with.
  3. Weird engine coding

    Thanks guys now I can get to rebuilding.
  4. Found a running engine with numbers I can't identify. First it is in a 51 ( I was told) chassis, block is 23 inches and water pump is the one without the short rubber hose over to thermostat housing. Number stamped on the normal location is only TP23 and nothing else. At the bottom of block on left side is 59 8 12. To the left of that is 148 then area looks like it is rubbed out then 44. Engine smokes so to rebuild I am not sure if this is 218 or 230. Is there another way to verify what it is?
  5. OK. Worked out to be a 49 at least the cab mounts up just right so I guess it is. Thanks for all the information and help.
  6. Doesn't matter just so the cab will mount up. The cab is a 49 b1 with no bed as I am going to build a wooden flat bed on it. The frame I'm looking at is a rolling unit with engine. Seller says 47 so I have measured the bolt mount distance on the cab and will go back and check frame mounts. Sure looks like a 49 but seller says 47. Not sure if there is a difference.
  7. Thanks. I found a 1947 frame and have a 1949 b1 cab I would like to mount and build a wooden flat bed and thought this may work. The seller said the frames were all the same and that just didn't sound right too me. Thanks again.
  8. What frames are interchangeable under the pilot house pickups? I was told they are the same from 1937 to early 1950's.
  9. Does anyone have a picture of what is used and where it mounts for the side mount spare? This will be a great help as I am trying to install a trailer hitch on my 49 B1 and the spare would be lying in the bed.
  10. windshield wiper question

    On these wipers the arms will screw onto the stud on the cowl but do not turn. There is nothing inside the arm that has anything that slips over the splined stud. The only part in the arm itself is the nut that screws onto the threads at the end of the stud. That is why I bought the repair kit shown in the top picture. The second picture shows the inside of the arm but isn't clear enough to see nothing is in there to slip over the splined shaft. The repair kit has one of the round knurled nuts that does slip over the splined shaft but I don't know how it attaches in the wiper arm. There were no directions with the repair kit and nothing seems to fall into place. It just seems to me the wiper arm is missing the part that slips over the splines.
  11. My 49 B1B has electric wipers and everything works except the wiper arm. The problem seems to be that the knurled inset inside the wiper arm doesn't go down far enough to slip on the splined section of the wiper mount. So I bought a wiper kit with a knurled part that fits the mount but I don't know how it should be placed in the arm or if it should. Is it possible the mount section on the truck is for the electric wiper arm and the arm itself is for the vacuum system. The wiper motor works and the little splined stud that comes up through the cowl under windshield turn back and forth but the wiper arm will just sit there. They were not working when I got the truck so I'm trying now to get them going. Do you have any idea's or possible solutions?
  12. Well everything has been running fine since restoration. But yesterday I was going for a ride and just happened to open the right side hood and noticed something strange. There was water sitting on the exhaust manifold at the bolt location of the front most of the two bolts that go between intake and exhaust. Not enough to cause it to run off onto the floor just a little down the side of the manifold. Checked all bolts and yes some tightened up a little not much and none as much as half a turn. So thinking that would correct it I drove it some 30 miles with no problem and got home. This morning I go out and the water is back. Anyone ever have this happen? Seems strange that a manifold bolt would be that close to the water jacket or should I be looking for something else. I thought about removing that nut and stud, put some type of sealer on the bolt and then reinstall. I'm just hoping there is no cracked block. Any suggestions short of removing the manifold and installing a new gasket? Thanks again Don
  13. PROBLEM SOLVED at least for now!!!! Well I have been bumfuzzled all day but finally fixed I HOPE. Like I said whenever I would crank the engine and turn the lights on everything worked fine for about 2 minutes and then all lights would turn off for 5-10 seconds then back on for a minute or so then back off. This would continue as long as the lights were on and the engine running. After all day of checking connections for tightness, verifying wired correctly, undoing, redoing, praying and wondering the problem was located. I had replaced my generator with a 1 wire, internal regulator alternator. Then left the old voltage regulator mounted on the firewall using the "Bat" terminal as a junction for the alternator/gauge wires to connect. Well apparently the regulator was building up current back into the light system causing it to become intermittent. So I removed the wires from the regulator and taped them together, cranked the engine, turned the lights on and let it sit and run for over 5 minutes. The lights stayed on the entire time. So unless something else pops up this problem is solved. I plan on taking an old broken regulator and gut it leaving only the 3 terminals using one for the junction of these wires. Or just stop by the store and get a junction strip and mounting it in place of the regulator. Thanks guys for all your help and suggestions. Hopefully this will help someone else from having to go through the same bumfuzzled day. Again THANKS!!! Don
  14. Gone back through all the wires and tightened again which didn't change a thing. As for the electrical system I have a 6 volt 1 wire alternator with internal regulator. I left the original regulator on the firewall and using the "Bat" terminal as the junction for wire from alternator and wire from amp gauge. My next plan is to remove these two wires from the old voltage regulator and temporarily tape them together. This will eliminate a possible problem there. Still working through this trying to figure it out. Thanks for all your input and help. Don
  15. Well today started some test to try finding problem. Problem: Headlights will work for about 1 minute then go off for some 10 seconds then back on for 30 seconds before going off again. This continues all the time and there is a click in the light switch each time lights go off. None when they come back on. Test: Disconnect 1 headlight from circuit and all other lights stay on with no going out. Check voltage at each terminal post and parking and running lights show 4.5 to 6.5 volts. High beam terminal post shows reading of over 124 on the volt/ohm meter. Reconnect all lights to terminals and turn on without engine running and they stay on indefinitely without going off. Even left switch on for about 5 minutes and all lights stay on. With this I have found the only time the lights go off and on is with the engine running. So this has me in a pickle as I can't understand anything that would cause this. I tried it once again by turning on the lights with the truck sitting in the garage and they would stay burning until the battery ran down. Crank the engine and let it sit there running with the lights on and they will start the intermittent going off and on. Turn the truck off and they stay on indefinitely. I am just plumb bumfuzzled as we say here in south. Have any of you ever had this problem. I've gone over the wiring diagram and traced wires and they are all correct according to the diagram as shown in the manual. Again I'm just plumb bumfuzzled. Don