Richie15

Hi Lloyd! I am doing same with 1940 truck bellhousing (1939 same) and 1949 dodge 230 c.i. crankshaft with 8 holes (.187 thicker flange). In summary: I need to machine out where the starter mounts, to offset the .187 so the starter gear will line-up with the ring gear....the throw-out bearing pressure plate/clutch assy. will clear inside the bell housing? Vintage Power Wagon flywheel is still available as of today and I will buy that and ditch my 201 flywheel. Sounds Like a Winner unless you have had any other problem? Thanks, Richie

Hi, I have been looking into IFS because the straight axle set up from stock will do shimmy once at speeds above 55 mph...caster and camber not right for say, interstate speeds. I'd like to be corrected about this...maybe my shop is trying to sell an IFS kit + installation...at best $3000 total. Anyway, back to the point...will rack &pinion set up and box the frame forward of the cab stable the steering issue that I am told will occur? ebay seller ezsteer will supply power rack & pinion to your specs. $1000, they have gave me specific measurements needed. Richie15

You and I on same page....I have ordered an A833 adapter for D30 engine, I think a 2000 Cherokee 3rd member will bolt to stock springs, etc. etc. But will be making some phone calls for the IFS application to the '39-'47 frame...see if Fatmans' quality with Helix prices exists!

Thanks Jeremiah, I will look at Fatman. There are many suppliers, Helix seem s to have best price then send 20% off message...only complaints about sloppy welds. Both cross members is a big plus to me but don't wish to unnecassarily welds and cutting. Neat and way strong! I do have an experiance shop but not with the Dodge/Plymouth trucks. Regards, Richie

Hi, I'm asking about 1939-47 Dodge Plymouth pickup 1/2 ton....Does a IFS added need to remove the stock cross member? From pictures of these IFS kits it almost looks like the new new cross member that comes with the kit WILL clear the existing cross member...which I would like to keep that for the engine, radiator mounting points AND keep all that extra bulk/support of the frame AND the new added member will have mounting points for the rack, pinion steering assy. Any info. how should I move forward before buying a kit appreciated. Thanks Rich

Thank you all, some delays in this project (what else is new?) but, last week the cab and doors media blasted then taken to a body man. He is going to epoxy primer then look at firewall modification to set back 5" or 3" (with engine coolant fan in front of the radiator) and all the other dents and fix one of the bad lower hinges. His ideas will be considered for sure. Me, I will clean up the frame, especially where the cab mounts so that when he is done I will take toe frame to his shop and we will set the cab on the frame. Getting all that accomplished I will have the fun of measuring, figuring the engine/tranny mounts on this old frame, drive train aligned properly...major moves forward....wish me the best, an of course: all and any suggestions. Best Regards

Thank you Kevin, yes with the AWA auto, shifting is in my taste! This is encouraging as my 4.0L is 31 inches....possibly enlarging the nitch debth a few inches will do it. My measurement of the 4.0L included the water pump but not the fan as thinking electric fan there but more nitch debth either way. I have not find an aftermarket firewall "nitch" pre-fabricated yet as I have anticipated some increase there, maybe 5 or 6 inches would do it. I would have to look at steering column issues, maybe the stock would clear...I would like to get the tranny shifter off the floor/onto the steering column, is the Commanche shift on the column? Regards, Richie

Hi, I am looking for help with anyone done this engine swap. Measurements of the compartment from the firewall "nitch" to the backside of the radiator cores would be helpful too (my cab with doors is in a body shop) so I can't do this measurement right now, maybe a couple months when my body guy gets to it. I like my Cherokee inline 6 & auto tranny, tough, dependable and could do some hauling, light towing in my 1940 PT-105. So I am thinking on these lines of mounting this drivetrain into this pickup. Also, a modern engine would be best "today" as my daily drive. I would appreciate advise. Thanks, Richie

What it fits? Well a few: Dodge: '38-'40 passenger; truck '39-'42 1T(to eng. 42001);'39-'53 1/2 & 3/4 T without fluid drive Plymouth: '38-'53 exc. Hy-drive This is true with the assy#1330606 which is reference those above. There are others too Massey Harris, Chrysler and up to 1954 Dodge, Plymouth but have notes for changes that have to be made (move the radiator, change the flywheel and other details) I believe that Plymouth used the same model P-15 car 1946-48. Rich

It is probably sold, but I thought I would ask. I did not think it was up for two weeks but it mentioned a short block for sale (with one other thing), I think it was a 230 and had a D in the serial number and it was listed in NY. That is all I can remember. Is that still active or is possible to send the ad to me? Thanks, Rich rwsarver@charter.net

I just got off the phone with John in Arkansas-he seems focused on quality products (I was trying my best to get him into '39-'47) too. Thanks

Has anyone done a seat cover kit? Such as what Roberts, Bernbaum or others that offer kits to recover your '39-'47 Mopar truck seat. Prices don't look too bad and offer all the materials to complete the job. Just wondering if the cover is satisfied and possibly "looks" the original cover. Thanks, I have the springs stripped and ready to POR-15 them then look to do the seat.

Yes, the crank number is one-off. Tomorrow I will make some measurements and look at the bearings. I see the 1942 went to 3 1/4 bore 217 c.I.. Thanks