dmartin_egroup

More from original poster...... Rainy today, so maybe I will work on Dodge which is in garage. Regarding the speedometer itself, (assuming I remove it ok), how can I lube it to stop the loud chattering/squealing above 20 MPH? I need the odometer feature to estimate fuel consumption, since my fuel gauge is not working. I am afraid if I keep driving it as it is, I will destroy the gears inside the speedometer! Also, I need to re-attach the speedometer's pointer/needle and the supporting clear disk. Super Glue? One of the JB Weld products?? Thanks for any suggestions while folks have speedometers on their minds!

Good evening all: Continuing my topic, I tried for a little while this afternoon, disconnected battery, removed speedo cable, also bulb. I could feel the nuts but did not have the right tools to turn them. I have a set of ignition wrenches somewhere, they may be what I need (or a nut driver). I did not go any further since it was about 90 degrees F. I think I may start my next session by removing all the junk (I carry lots of stuff around in the cab) from the floor and seat, and removing the seat itself. Then with a good light, and cooler temps, I may make some progress.

Good morning; thanks for the great suggestions, especially the reminder to disconnect batt. I think today might be the day for me to do this job!

My 1945 WC's speedometer needs work. How must I position myself in the cab/floor to gain access to the mounting screws, etc. to remove the speedo? The truck is fully assembled and driveable, so I will need to work around the pedals and everything else. I am much older now than when I assembled this truck, so I need to know what must be done for access, before I start. Thanks much for any assistance! (By the way, I have a WC series shop manual, I don't find any info on this procedure.)

Good evening: Many years ago, J.C.Whitney sold kits of king pins with bushings and misc parts. They also sold a manual reamer that was the size for your kit. Reamer could be turned with a wrench. (The bushings are what gets reamed, of course, not the pins, as several post seem to imply.). Possibly hand reamers are still available??

When I sell my antique car or truck, when will it be OK to cancel my insurance policy for that vehicle? I may not know who has the vehicle after I sell it. When is it no longer my responsibility? Thanks for any knowledgable replies!

My 1937 sedan's horn quit blowing a few weeks ago. I figured out quickly that the relay was not working, it is mounted on top of the steering column tube, just above the steering box. Today I finally removed the relay (an AC product) and adjusted the fixed contact so it was a little closer to the movable contact when at rest. Reinstalled. Tried out, it works!! I don't know where I would find another 6 volt horn relay; it was not stock on my 1937. I drove around neighborhood, blew at all the neighbors, just like a kid! Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

Good evening: I am late to this discussion, but will offer this comment: I removed the body from a 1937 Chevy about 30 years ago, woking inside my garage at home. I was able to put a plank inside the back window opening, tie a chain around the plank, then used my manual chain hoist to lift the back end of the body up from the car's frame. I placed saw horses on each side near rear of car, and laid a 2 x 8 plank across the horses, under the body. Then I moved the chain hoist to another beam in the garage ceiling, and repeated the process for the front end of the body. The body sat on planks which were on saw horses for several weeks while I dealt with rusted floor pan, rocker panels, etc. The chassis was still on wheels, so it was easy to roll it out of my way. The process was actually pretty easy, and the body was high enough for me to work under it in relative comfort. By The Way, Before removing each of the old rocker panels, I re-inforced the body by putting temporary braces across the door opening, also diagonals from side to side. It is pretty important that the doors still fit the body when you put it back together!! Good luck!

Good evening, Bob: I have not seen how your car's trunk lid springs are arranged, but let me share some general ideas from the past. Some springs, notably hood springs, which are coil springs (hopefully similar to your trunk springs) can be stretched WHILE NOT ON THE CAR by some outside means (use your own ideas). While holding the spring stretched, place suitable-size washers between each coil, holding them possibly with tape. Now you can release your tension and the spring only shortens a little bit. The washers keep the spring extended enough to easily slip it on to the attachment points. Then when you move the trunk lid to stretch the springs, the washers are released. Think about this principle a little while, it may be useable in your case. Dennis Martin

I do not have access to earlier discussion of this topic. I think you say we must match the engine number to a number on the chassis. WHERE ON THE CHASSIS MUST WE LOOK? My car is a 1937 Plymouth, it may be different from a P15. Thanks much!!

I note several are suggestion using a multi-meter. Do any of you have a meter that will give accurate readings below say 200 ohms? A fuel sender is in pretty low ohms range. Just saying....

Just a comment from a bystander; in this forum some folks are from countries that the driver sits on the right side. Use careful terminology, for them the driver's side means their right, therefore right hand threads! BTW, along with Mopar, Studebaker use left-hand threads during similar years. I don't recall who else...... The logic of the right/left threads was that you tighten bolt on both sides by turning wrench toward the front of vehicle. To loosen bolts, turn wrench toward the rear.

The 'Ball and Trunnion" u-joint, also called "Detroit" type is much different from others, such as the "Spicer" type. Info that I know about is in my 1936 to 42 Plymouth parts book, also my Dodge truck parts book covering many models including the 1/2 ton model WC. I am not much good at copying pictures from books, or Ebay. I did look in Ebay for Mopar kits, found a few with pics, but no Mopar number listed. BTW, I don't recall caps or serrated clips as parts of the joints I am referring to. I think our discussion may be about two different types of joints. The "Detroit" type was used in some cars into the 1960s.

Sort of off topic: Has anyone asked a shop to dis-assemble the u-joints of this type (I am assuming the "ball and trunnion" type)? Reason for question: Several years ago, I had my 1937 Plymouth sedan drive shaft in an auto repair shop, the mechanic was using a large hydraulic press to attempt dis-assembly. He gave up, and I was relieved as it looked as though the joint parts or the press/mandrel parts might pop out like a bullet. Result? The old joints are still in my 37 Plym, still vibrate. Sorry about getting off the O.P.'s original question. I think many people read forums hoping to gain information they can use themselves.

Good afternoon: The water pump shaft seals may not hold up if pressure cap is too high a value. It may be hard to research what water pump seals you have. Just sayin'.... In my opinion, the next weak spot would be the so-called freeze plugs.

Thanks for posting your success!! People reading this always want to know how it turned out. My opinion.....

Good evening: Regarding rubber stripping for windows, I think you might want to get samples of products being reproduced for other makes of vehicles. Something is probably out there that you can make work! I would also advise keeping every bit of your existing rubber stripping, to use for comparison, and also in case you are forced to put the old stuff back on the vehicle. Good luck!

I have read that hammering on the puller will damage the axle bearings which are tapered roller type. Just sayin'...

This is not help, but what is called doghouse on these trucks?? Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

I would say that if a stud can not be unscrewed, then it is not going to be leaking coolant. If threads are good, I would leave well enough alone. Each stud should be examined with this thought in mind. Just my humble opinion! Dennnis M. in W. Tenn.

Believe it or not, I drive my 1945 half-ton once a week, the tires get dirty and worn, so if there is rain everything gets wet, and when I get in and out I step (carefully) on the running boards! The truck is developing its own patina. Regarding the running boards, I try to park on surfaces that are NOT like loose gravel or sand, to keep my shoes clean; Also I am careful not to twist or rotate my shoes on the running board, so wear is minimal. Just my way of keeping this old thing pretty good, but not perfect.

Tying the gas pedal to the steering column was probably needed, if his pedal was like mine. The pedal is supported on two bolts on the floor, that have ball-shaped heads. The gas pedal is supposed to sort of snap onto the 2 balls, but as the pedal gets old, it does not stay. It tries to fall to the right side, making the rod that goes through the fire wall start binding. You can't fix this as you are driving along the road; trust me!

Hi: My memory is not what it used to be (if it ever was!) but, on some vehicles the handle's shank becomes worn, letting the handle sag. If the handles can be swapped from side to side (i.e., swap driver's and passenger's handles) both will look good for no cost. This may not apply to your exact vehicle, but may be worth checking into. Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

My dash unit was showing zero while driving around with a full tank. I connected a jumper wire from ground to the sender wire that goes to the dash, this made dash unit read FULL. This meant sending unit is bad, so I removed sending unit. The cork float is heavy, too long soaking in fuel. Mainly the sender reads 200 ohms regardless of float position. Are these senders repairable? Please, I would like to hear from folks who have actually fixed one with their own hands, not just someone's theory or day dream. Or, has anyone bought a replacement sender?? Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

Hi: Regarding the tool called a dummy drum, If it could be fabricated with the inside diameter a little less than the desired final size, and IF it replicates the real drum, then a drum turning machine should be able turn/cut the I.D. of the tool to any reasonable size. Just my humble opinion! Dennis M. in W. Tenn.