Jump to content

dmartin_egroup

Members
  • Content Count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About dmartin_egroup

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    W. Tennessee
  • Interests
    antique cars, tractors, toy trains
  • My Project Cars
    maintaining my 1945 Dodge WC 1/2 ton, and my 1937 Plymouth 4-dr sedan, both restored to original 20 years ago.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    raised near Chicago, IL
  • Occupation
    retired

Converted

  • Location
    West Tennessee, near Jackson
  • Interests
    1941 Ford 9N and 1958 I-H Cub tractors

Recent Profile Visitors

527 profile views
  1. I have read that hammering on the puller will damage the axle bearings which are tapered roller type. Just sayin'...
  2. This is not help, but what is called doghouse on these trucks?? Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
  3. I would say that if a stud can not be unscrewed, then it is not going to be leaking coolant. If threads are good, I would leave well enough alone. Each stud should be examined with this thought in mind. Just my humble opinion! Dennnis M. in W. Tenn.
  4. Believe it or not, I drive my 1945 half-ton once a week, the tires get dirty and worn, so if there is rain everything gets wet, and when I get in and out I step (carefully) on the running boards! The truck is developing its own patina. Regarding the running boards, I try to park on surfaces that are NOT like loose gravel or sand, to keep my shoes clean; Also I am careful not to twist or rotate my shoes on the running board, so wear is minimal. Just my way of keeping this old thing pretty good, but not perfect.
  5. Tying the gas pedal to the steering column was probably needed, if his pedal was like mine. The pedal is supported on two bolts on the floor, that have ball-shaped heads. The gas pedal is supposed to sort of snap onto the 2 balls, but as the pedal gets old, it does not stay. It tries to fall to the right side, making the rod that goes through the fire wall start binding. You can't fix this as you are driving along the road; trust me!
  6. Hi: My memory is not what it used to be (if it ever was!) but, on some vehicles the handle's shank becomes worn, letting the handle sag. If the handles can be swapped from side to side (i.e., swap driver's and passenger's handles) both will look good for no cost. This may not apply to your exact vehicle, but may be worth checking into. Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
  7. My dash unit was showing zero while driving around with a full tank. I connected a jumper wire from ground to the sender wire that goes to the dash, this made dash unit read FULL. This meant sending unit is bad, so I removed sending unit. The cork float is heavy, too long soaking in fuel. Mainly the sender reads 200 ohms regardless of float position. Are these senders repairable? Please, I would like to hear from folks who have actually fixed one with their own hands, not just someone's theory or day dream. Or, has anyone bought a replacement sender?? Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
  8. Hi: Regarding the tool called a dummy drum, If it could be fabricated with the inside diameter a little less than the desired final size, and IF it replicates the real drum, then a drum turning machine should be able turn/cut the I.D. of the tool to any reasonable size. Just my humble opinion! Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
  9. I have a 1937 Plymouth four-door sedan with a P-19 engine (Pretty sure P-19 is stamped on it, the car is not here right now). I need/want Mopar part numbers for many of the parts, and also illustrations. I don''t have a P-19 parts book). Many folks have had their hands on this engine, and the water pump is a collection of generic parts, some correct for P-19, some not. I searched this web site some time ago, but did not get clear list of parts I should be using. I know there are differences in the pump's main body casting, the impeller, the pump's back cover plate, and other parts. Also, a diagram of heater hoses for the P-19 car would be good so I can get mine routed correctly and not create unwanted bypasses or other errors. Sorry, this is a complicated paragraph, but I am afraid my cooling system is somewhat of a mess. Thanks for help, even possibly identifying other internet sources! Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
  10. Hi: Regarding a couple of the posts in this topic, If you have a flat tire, realize that the axle or whatever part you want to put the jack under, will be a lot closer to the ground than normal. Measure the available space from axle to ground when you have a flat tire! The jack will have to fit in there or will not work. Also plan on a block to make a large base to set under the jack if ground is soft. Also, carry blocks or some type of wheel chocks, at least enough to place in front AND behind one of the tires on opposite side of car from the flat. When you start turning the lug nuts on a rear wheel, often the car will try to move forward or back, since many of our vehicles's parking brake prevents the drive shaft from turning but the rear wheels can still be rotated if one is off the ground. Just food for thought. Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
  11. For the front brake drums, you can use a side grinder and cut a notch in a spare drum, so a feeler gauge can be slipped in to measure shoe clearance. I simply put the spare drum on temporarily while I get the shoes adjusted, then put the regular drum back on. This will work if the spare drum is the same inside diameter as the normal drum you will be driving with. For rear drums with tapered axle shaft, not so easy to do the switch. Maybe someone else has a good method for adjusting the rear shoes, although the method described by darenfroe is pretty good! Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
  12. Tank unit  Mopar # 2240729  works for me on single wire circuits such as 1937

  13. Hi, Dpollo: Would I be applying ground or battery voltage using my clip lead?? Thanks for assistance! Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
  14. The fuel gauge on my 1937 Plymouth car is not indicating tank level. When ignition key is off, gauge is pegged below the empty mark. When I turn the key on, the pointer moves up to the empty mark, but no further. It did this today after I topped off the fuel tank. Therefore I say the gauge is not dead, but is not indicating correct level. Can anyone tell from these symptoms what things I should check, and in what order? Thanks much! (Oh, by the way, I did have a nice ride around the countryside today, gauge or not!) Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
  15. My "go back" function is not working.  When I go into someone's post, I am supposed to get back out by left-clicking the left-pointing arrow on the browser, or else right click to get a little dialog box where I can click a left-pointing arrow to back out of the posting.  Other web forums are still working correctly, so I think something has changed about P15-D24.

    Dennis in W. Tenn

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use