dmartin_egroup

More from original poster...... Rainy today, so maybe I will work on Dodge which is in garage. Regarding the speedometer itself, (assuming I remove it ok), how can I lube it to stop the loud chattering/squealing above 20 MPH? I need the odometer feature to estimate fuel consumption, since my fuel gauge is not working. I am afraid if I keep driving it as it is, I will destroy the gears inside the speedometer! Also, I need to re-attach the speedometer's pointer/needle and the supporting clear disk. Super Glue? One of the JB Weld products?? Thanks for any suggestions while folks have speedometers on their minds!

Good evening all: Continuing my topic, I tried for a little while this afternoon, disconnected battery, removed speedo cable, also bulb. I could feel the nuts but did not have the right tools to turn them. I have a set of ignition wrenches somewhere, they may be what I need (or a nut driver). I did not go any further since it was about 90 degrees F. I think I may start my next session by removing all the junk (I carry lots of stuff around in the cab) from the floor and seat, and removing the seat itself. Then with a good light, and cooler temps, I may make some progress.

Good morning; thanks for the great suggestions, especially the reminder to disconnect batt. I think today might be the day for me to do this job!

My 1945 WC's speedometer needs work. How must I position myself in the cab/floor to gain access to the mounting screws, etc. to remove the speedo? The truck is fully assembled and driveable, so I will need to work around the pedals and everything else. I am much older now than when I assembled this truck, so I need to know what must be done for access, before I start. Thanks much for any assistance! (By the way, I have a WC series shop manual, I don't find any info on this procedure.)

Good evening: Many years ago, J.C.Whitney sold kits of king pins with bushings and misc parts. They also sold a manual reamer that was the size for your kit. Reamer could be turned with a wrench. (The bushings are what gets reamed, of course, not the pins, as several post seem to imply.). Possibly hand reamers are still available??

When I sell my antique car or truck, when will it be OK to cancel my insurance policy for that vehicle? I may not know who has the vehicle after I sell it. When is it no longer my responsibility? Thanks for any knowledgable replies!

My 1937 sedan's horn quit blowing a few weeks ago. I figured out quickly that the relay was not working, it is mounted on top of the steering column tube, just above the steering box. Today I finally removed the relay (an AC product) and adjusted the fixed contact so it was a little closer to the movable contact when at rest. Reinstalled. Tried out, it works!! I don't know where I would find another 6 volt horn relay; it was not stock on my 1937. I drove around neighborhood, blew at all the neighbors, just like a kid! Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

Good evening: I am late to this discussion, but will offer this comment: I removed the body from a 1937 Chevy about 30 years ago, woking inside my garage at home. I was able to put a plank inside the back window opening, tie a chain around the plank, then used my manual chain hoist to lift the back end of the body up from the car's frame. I placed saw horses on each side near rear of car, and laid a 2 x 8 plank across the horses, under the body. Then I moved the chain hoist to another beam in the garage ceiling, and repeated the process for the front end of the body. The body sat on planks which were on saw horses for several weeks while I dealt with rusted floor pan, rocker panels, etc. The chassis was still on wheels, so it was easy to roll it out of my way. The process was actually pretty easy, and the body was high enough for me to work under it in relative comfort. By The Way, Before removing each of the old rocker panels, I re-inforced the body by putting temporary braces across the door opening, also diagonals from side to side. It is pretty important that the doors still fit the body when you put it back together!! Good luck!

Good evening, Bob: I have not seen how your car's trunk lid springs are arranged, but let me share some general ideas from the past. Some springs, notably hood springs, which are coil springs (hopefully similar to your trunk springs) can be stretched WHILE NOT ON THE CAR by some outside means (use your own ideas). While holding the spring stretched, place suitable-size washers between each coil, holding them possibly with tape. Now you can release your tension and the spring only shortens a little bit. The washers keep the spring extended enough to easily slip it on to the attachment points. Then when you move the trunk lid to stretch the springs, the washers are released. Think about this principle a little while, it may be useable in your case. Dennis Martin

I do not have access to earlier discussion of this topic. I think you say we must match the engine number to a number on the chassis. WHERE ON THE CHASSIS MUST WE LOOK? My car is a 1937 Plymouth, it may be different from a P15. Thanks much!!

I note several are suggestion using a multi-meter. Do any of you have a meter that will give accurate readings below say 200 ohms? A fuel sender is in pretty low ohms range. Just saying....

Just a comment from a bystander; in this forum some folks are from countries that the driver sits on the right side. Use careful terminology, for them the driver's side means their right, therefore right hand threads! BTW, along with Mopar, Studebaker use left-hand threads during similar years. I don't recall who else...... The logic of the right/left threads was that you tighten bolt on both sides by turning wrench toward the front of vehicle. To loosen bolts, turn wrench toward the rear.

The 'Ball and Trunnion" u-joint, also called "Detroit" type is much different from others, such as the "Spicer" type. Info that I know about is in my 1936 to 42 Plymouth parts book, also my Dodge truck parts book covering many models including the 1/2 ton model WC. I am not much good at copying pictures from books, or Ebay. I did look in Ebay for Mopar kits, found a few with pics, but no Mopar number listed. BTW, I don't recall caps or serrated clips as parts of the joints I am referring to. I think our discussion may be about two different types of joints. The "Detroit" type was used in some cars into the 1960s.

Sort of off topic: Has anyone asked a shop to dis-assemble the u-joints of this type (I am assuming the "ball and trunnion" type)? Reason for question: Several years ago, I had my 1937 Plymouth sedan drive shaft in an auto repair shop, the mechanic was using a large hydraulic press to attempt dis-assembly. He gave up, and I was relieved as it looked as though the joint parts or the press/mandrel parts might pop out like a bullet. Result? The old joints are still in my 37 Plym, still vibrate. Sorry about getting off the O.P.'s original question. I think many people read forums hoping to gain information they can use themselves.

Good afternoon: The water pump shaft seals may not hold up if pressure cap is too high a value. It may be hard to research what water pump seals you have. Just sayin'.... In my opinion, the next weak spot would be the so-called freeze plugs.