Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


kridgleyud last won the day on September 24 2017

kridgleyud had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About kridgleyud

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday July 18

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Newark, Delaware
  • Interests
    Cars, Beer, Fishing, Soccer
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge De Luxe Sedan

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Originally from Germany, grew up mostly in lower Delaware, now I work as an engineer.
  • Occupation
    Mechanical/Biomedical Engineer


  • Location
    Newark, DE
  • Interests
    Cars ... duh, fishing, beer

Recent Profile Visitors

401 profile views
  1. kridgleyud

    Oil Leak Help

    @thebeebe5, thanks for sharing this. It may likely be coming from this seal again ... the rope seal I took out, in my original pic didn't look very good. I have the best gasket on the way as it's very cheap through EGGE. I plan to replace is no smoking gun other than this is found. Again, really thankful for the feedback and experience shared and have to trust the word of your engine builder.
  2. kridgleyud

    Oil Leak Help

    Thanks for the thoughts all. I've got her on a stand (crate really) so I can look at further. Plan: 1. Remove pressure plate and clutch disk, use starter and bellhousing to crank and look around ... 2. Remove bellhousing and starter and flywheel and look at plugs/seals on rear again for wetting @thebeebe5, I was with the understanding that the rope seal in the bolt-on retainer was a direct swap with the newer neoprene seals. Curious, what machining is required for this seal to work? The pic shows both .. I did install the flange inward as that's what the manual showed, its just flipped in my pic. @greg g, there is a plug in place of the oil pressure gauge line at block that would normally run to the firewall. ... But, going to re-check all seals and plugs to make sure they're sealing.
  3. kridgleyud

    Oil Leak Help

    @Merle Coggins I'll check these while it's out .. .didn't see any signs of oil here last time but I'll definitely look again. @Andydodge Sure did! I'm stumped really ... but with her out maybe I'll see something I couldn't before.
  4. kridgleyud

    Oil Leak Help

    Experts ... I need some help! Bought a rebuilt 218 from and Dodge truck to go into my 1940. If you followed my build thread you'll recognize the issue. Months ago before winter I put the motor on the chassis, cranked the starter without plugs and had a BAD oil leak from the rear of the motor. I pulled it back out and replaced the rear main seal (bolt-on type) and new oil pan gasket. This weekend I put her back onto the chassis and tried again ... cranked starter without plugs and what happens ... oil to about 20 psi and nothing higher ... more leaking out of the back. Pulled her back out with oil this time; into the garage again to see if I can find out where this oil is coming from. Here is the seal i took out last time versus what I replaced it with ... Any thoughts as to other sources for oil coming from the back of the block? All seals and plugs look intact on the back of the block ... any chance it could be coming from the crank at the pilot bearing?
  5. kridgleyud

    Using Engine ID Number to Title Car

    Just saw this thread and thought I would share my experience. I'm in Delaware, so not apples to apples. I bough the car from a fellow in PA, who bought from another fellow in TX. The PA title I got with the car has the serial number on it (located inside the pass. door pillar), but my local DMV would not use it. The car was not drive-able, so when it came time to get my Delaware U-Title, they sent out an employee (inspector, number looker-at-er, i dunno what his title was). But he told me my new title would be using the engine ID and I was surprised, but said that's what DE did. When I asked what to do if I ever replaced the motor, he said to just mount (rivet) a plate on the firewall with the old engine number. Since the original engine was replaced and I'm not usually one to trust a state-workers word, I'm keeping the engine until after my U-title gets converted into a real title and gets it's tags and registration ... just in case!
  6. kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    @Tom Nice looking car there! Looks solid. It's starting to get pretty cold out here, but I was able to get the front end done before moving her back into the garage. I'm going to pull the motor next and figure out where this oil is coming from and rest her back in there. I'll do the cam break in on the frame then move onto my planned winter projects. My wiring harness just showed up and I've started looking whats needed to get the gauges restored. Any questions or odds and end parts you need, feel free to ask away. Keep us posted on your progress too! -Kev
  7. kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    alright everyone ... was thinking about this all day at work, so crawled under there to take another look. I attached a pic of the rear seal area ... not as wet as I thought, hard to see now where it was coming from. It's soaked up around the starter as i look up into the bellhousing. Is it possible it's not the rear seal or oil pan? Not sure what else could leak back here. Next, I think I'll get a helper to hit the starter for me as I look at where the oil might be coming out from. I was at least able to determine it has the outside the block style seal ... is that really all there is? Or does this have the rope inside as well? 1950 Dodge truck motor, 218.
  8. kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    To be safer I used the chassis as the test stand. Burns me up a little to have to backtrack but it's not that bad. Pull motor, bellhousing and clutch back off, drop oil pan then I can tackle the seal. Big bummer is that the clutch disk was exposed to the oil. Not sure if there is a way to save it or if I'll need a new one?
  9. kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    was hoping to post some good news ... but I've got a set back ... used an old oil pump with drive gear off to prime the passages, was able to get pressure on the gauge but noticed an oil leak ... dripping from the clutch cover. Was hoping it was the oil pan or something ... well it appears the rear main seal is leaking, flywheel and clutch are all wet with oil. bummer, but it is what it is ... so I'm going to start getting ready to tackle that, motors coming back out.
  10. kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge instrument panel

    I'll be following this! I have the same issues with my D14 inst. panel. From what I can gather, the Dodge cluster was only for Dodge, for 1 year and only in the cars. The 1939 Plymouth is close ... but would need to check the spacing of the small to large gauges to verify they fit behind the openings of the dash. @bryan that second link is the cluster from a 1939 dodge
  11. kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    Hello Folks still following this ... motor was installed Sunday, just getting around to uploading pics to this thread. Couple hiccups but nothing major. this motor has the oil pan sump forward ... so had to remove a steering arm temporarily until I put on the original pan ... need to clean up and paint to match. Hoping the pickup doesn't need to move, but this is doable if needed. She went in pretty easy and looking good. I've got the old oil pump that I knocked the drive gear off of to prime her ... need to work out accelerator linkage, recheck torques, fittings and the static timing and get ready to fire it up. stay tuned.
  12. kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    @Bryan Here is a photo of the right angle pump with Langdons Headers.
  13. kridgleyud

    Oil priming... quick question

    thanks folks. I'm looking at the external tank now and will rather have the insurance than ruining a fresh motor but cutting corners.
  14. kridgleyud

    Oil priming... quick question

    Folks. I'm going to be priming a rebuilt motor ... Oil pump already installed. I read that the starter can be used to crank motor with plugs out. Can this be done with a 6v starter and 12v battery? Car is going to be 12v long term but I also read that the original starters are OK running 12v if you do not crank them long. Would this put me in the cranking too long range? Thanks all.
  15. kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    I was thinking about some high-temp engine clear

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use