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I didn't know about the number in the frame! Now I want to know if it matches the engine... as far as I know the block is original.

Yes, they are new, but it's the same design that was being built 60 or 70 years ago. They are from a company called "Funsa". It was the biggest (and there were only a couple) tire manufacturers here in the 50s and 60s. Then it started to sell less and less, and started to go down. They did have tubless radial tires, but just a couple of models and sizes in the 70s and 80s. Eventually they went out of business. About 5 years ago, it kind of came back, but just making the old designs, with the equipment they had when they closed down (but new materials). When I was about to buy them I looked at coker, but what I found was expensive for me, and also I'd have to pay about 90% over the price in shipping and taxes... so I went with the locals. Which are working great for now.

Not really sure, they were painted 3 or 4 years ago. Until recently I didn't know it was possible to use tubeless tires on tube wheels and about a year or year and a half ago I got 4 new tube tires.

Hi, I'm looking for help about where to buy good 600-640 x 16 tubes online. I asked on a facebook group a couple of days ago and one person (I guess it's here too) very kindly recommended Universal Tires, which I didn't know about, but looks very promising. Has anyone used any other place? I tried looking on the coker tires website but I couldn't find the right size. Does anyone have experience with these Universal Tire's tubes? I'm probably going to go ahead with these:https://www.universaltire.com/kr-16-radial-tube.html The size is the right one, and the price seems correct ($21 each) Thanks!

Awesome! thanks! I had never heard of these two sites before, but I wrote earlier today to Deception Pass Motor Parts and I will check this forum

Thanks for the video! It's great, very informative and also very enjoyable just for the vintage alone. It affirms that the exact rear joint in the car is rare, because it's never mentioned. Swapping is the plan if we can't get any repair or rebuild kits. But as it seems to be a rare system, I'm not sure we'll be able to get one. On tuesday the car goes to a shop to fix a small fuel leak, an oil leak on the differential, and while it's there, a check on the joint. We'll see what happens then!

@Dodgeb4ya Awesome! Thanks for those pics. I have a Plymouth service manual that goes from 36 to 41 or 42 and I didn't find anything about this joint. If you have any more info or diagrams about it, please send it to me (either here or to fbarbieri@gmail.com) Thanks!

That's the plan, maybe not right now, but it'll probably be done. Even more so now that I know that this kind of joint is not that common

As far as I know, it has not been modified. My grandfather bought the car used in 1959, and I'm sure it wasn't modified after that. Maybe the ball and trunnion type is the one used on the exit of the gearbox, from what I google now that I know the name, it looks like it. In this case, I don't think there will be many parts available! According to the serial number (11538034), the car was indeed built in 1946. Did the cars after '46 use the ball and trunnion type? or the more common u-joint?

Hello, I need a bit of help about the availability of parts for the driveshaft and differential joint. I understand that the system in my 46 export DeSoto (SP15) is not of the universal type that is more widely used. So, are there any repair kits available for this? I'm not sure about the english names of the parts I'm looking for, so it's been hard to find. The differential is leaking a bit, and we'll take it to a shop to change the seals, so it'd be a good time to adapt an universal type joint in case there are no parts available for the original. I attach a photo of the joint, just in case I got something wrong. Thanks for the help!

A brief update: I ordered two different led bulbs to try out, as I'm convinced that is the best way forward. But I was checking the bulb that was in the stop light, and it was a 5w! Now it has a 15w, and it's much better. Still, I think the led will be even better.

@Frank Elder thanks for the advice and that possible workaround for the flashers. It makes sense that the old glass lenses are darker than new thin plastics I generally try to avoid calling shops in the US because my English is not quite ready for tech support conversations yet and international calls aren't that cheap (I'm in Uruguay), but I might give it a shot. thanks!

I guess I'll have to check that distance, or if they are as cheap as I hope, just order both and try them

@thebeebe5, @DJ194950, @Jerry Roberts, @belvedere666 Thanks for the links and the tip about the flasher, I hadn't thought about that. I think I'll start with the brake light, and then see what happens (long term, I'd like the tail lights to do all 3 functions)

This is the reason I want to go led. The lenses are all the original glasses, but I don't really want any more temperature. The cooler the better. From what I saw, the led bulbs are about $5