Hubler13f

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About Hubler13f

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/28/1981

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Osceola Mills, PA
  • My Project Cars
    1937 Allis Chalmers WC
    1947 International KB1
    1948 Plymouth P15 Deluxe
    1970 Pontiac Tempest

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Retired Army Forward Observer OEF/OIF Veteran
  • Occupation
    Retired Army

Recent Profile Visitors

158 profile views
  1. Thanks good to know, I just didn't want to knock it loose after I got everything back together and have it get lodged or block a valve open. I'm sure if it's carbon it wouldn't last long, just made me nervous.
  2. I pulled that plug the other day to find TDC and found it to be filled with carbon build up or something, I carefully replaced it trying not to dislodge whatever is blocking it, I didn't see anything out of the ordinary while the head was off, but mine is definitely blocked.
  3. And an update on what I am hoping is the last of the Head Gasket Saga. The stud I made didn't hold, I should have known not to believe the rating on epoxy containers no matter what they say. So instead of pulling the head again, I tried putting a 1/2-13 bolt 3 inches long in the hole in the head and it fit perfectly. So I ran a 27/64 bit down through the hole and into the threads in the block then a 1/2-13 tap using the head hole to center it all and it went through like butter. I then coated the threads with permatex #2 and torqued it to 70 lbs. So there you have it if anyone else strips a headstud hole, or gets a little crazy removing a broken head bolt its an easy fix to drill and tap it to 1/2-13.
  4. I know it sounds like a lot but if you do a search on here. Many guys have had as much as .125 taken off. That's why I wasn't worried about .025. I had it running before I broke the head bolt and had to remove the head. There are no signs of anything hitting.
  5. I have my stud installed and the epoxy is curing, I used the permatex steel weld epoxy. I probably really didnt need the epoxy but I wanted something to take the tiny bit of slop out. Upon closer inspection I can see .040 stamped on each piston so i am thinking this engine has been dug into before.
  6. I grew up in and live near Philipsburg, PA. A guy named Jim Verost has probably 50 of these thing in every configuration sitting in a lot. It used to be a Junk yard but he scrapped everything except these.
  7. This is very similar to what I am going to do. I checked again this morning and tested a grade 8 bolt at 70 lbs torque in the hole and it holds. I have about 2 to 3 full threads in the bottom, and half threads almost all the way up. So if I can find grade 8 7/16-14 all thread somewhere I will make a stud and use epoxy as thread sealer and screw it in the hole. 7/16- grade 5 all thread can only be torqued to 50 lbs, grade 8 to 70 lbs. If not I'll get a grade 8 7/16-14 bolt 4 inches long and ill cut the head off and thread both sides. Edit: I called around and found some 7/16-14 grade 8 allthread so I'll be making a stud out of that.
  8. Well I got it! I let one of my stepson's friends come over and when his dad came over and I told him my plight, he brought back a couple of carbide bits for a die grinder. Hes a car guy too and has a 56 chevy and a 67 or 68 chevy truck. I ripped the head off and worked at it for about 30 minutes and the bottom 3/8" of the bolt dropped down into the water jacket. I could tell when i made contact with the broken drill bit by the bright orange sparks it made. Unfortunately I lost most of my threads but at least now I can drill and tap it to a bit larger size or install a heli-coil. All new bolts going in this time!
  9. My luck I would break that baby off in the block too. Thanks though, I went and spent about $100 for hard bits, left hand bits, and easy outs yesterday, so if that thing works as the testimonials said, it might be worth it.
  10. Yeah, the IHC KB1 I posted was bought in August 2011, I walked away from it after the entire chassis was done, motor trans and rear end installed, 2 inch chop was done all within 6 months, now I get to it once in a while, i should have kept on it while i had the motivation. The wife and I love to ride, we don't get to it very often now with 3 young kids there is always something going on. Also I used the 3/8 angle and plate trick on my outdoor boiler. It froze and cracked so i plated it, along with about 3 tubes of red RTV and it hasn't given me a problem since.
  11. Exactly, this is my hobby not a job. And this car is not my main means of transport. I walked away from it until I can think for a while. I dug some pits with my back hoe today, played in the pool with the kids for the last couple hours. It will be there when I want to get back into it.
  12. It wasn't bad at all I took each of the 21 head bolts and put the head in the vice and wire wheeled them then took a die and ran it down the bolt to clean the threads, maybe 45 minutes work total. In hindsight though I should have opened up my wallet and bought new bolts. I was hoping someone here would say heck with it run it til it blows again, but i know the right thing to do is tear it down again. I am thinking i will tear it down and cut the head of the bolt at the correct depth so it just touches the broken half then drill the head out to about 5/16, put it in the hole and try to mig it together and plug weld it. Then slowly turn it out.
  13. Well, it started out a good day I got parts late yesterday and tore into the garage early this morning trying to get it done. I remember another thread where some of the differences of the newer vs. the older water pumps. So below is a picture of the innards. You can see that the impeller design is totally different, also notice the threaded bung for placing a fitting for a heater hose to the of the new pump, this would be below the lower radiator hose connection. Also the mounting flange under the lower radiator hose connection is much thicker, the new pump came with a longer replacement bolt though. So I got everything put together, I used permatex copper spray on the head gasket and permatex #2 to seal everything else. I checked and rechecked everything to ensure I had it all together right. I checked the oil again, it seemed a little high, but not bad so at this point I wasn't to worried that any water had gotten down into the pan. So I turned the key, pushed the button and the car started immediately. It seemed to be idling a little high so I began going to work with my screw driver, vacuum gauge and timing light. As on cue the car started steaming as soon as it started to warm up and lasted about 10 minutes all as experienced and predicted by DPOLLO This is where things begin to go south. As I was adjusting the timing I removed the fill tube and could see the oil looked a little thing and somewhat like chocolate milk. I thought no big deal, I probably did get a little coolant in the oil. So I shut it down and was thinking I'll just run into town get a couple gallons of oil and do a couple oil changes over the next couple days. Then I thought while I have it up to operating temp I might as well re-torque the head bolts to 70 lbs. as stated in the service manual. Here's where it goes really south!!! I got to bolt number 8 in the sequence and snap, my heart sank. The bolt snapped deep in the hole, past the head and just below the deck, I have tried everything from easy outs, left hand twist drill bits, everything and it has not budged. And to top it off I really screwed myself when I snapped a 3/16 bit off in there. So now I am faced with having to tear it all down to try to extract this bolt by trying to weld a nut on it. I cleaned, wire wheeled, ran them through the die to clean the threads, checked and double checked these bolts. I have never before reused head bolts except on this engine and now I remember why. Part of me wants to say %&#@ it and just run it, until the next time I need to tear it down.
  14. Now that I think about it again I was just out in your area the other day I took the head out to Finches Machine Shop to get it shaved. When you turn off of rt. 253 at the red white and blue tree and head back there maybe a mile and a half, to the right there is what looks to be a couple of 40s mopars, one is dark blue and the other is light green and patina.
  15. Yeah I'm out near Sanborn on the same road as Bonnies greenhouse. Ill tell you this car was good looking on the outside but undernieth was kind of a nightmare. I watched this car for a long time and paid what he was asking but got a little bit of a surprise when I got home.