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About Branded

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor
  • Birthday 09/26/1957

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
  • Occupation
    AEP Power Plant , Retired

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Yorkville In
  • Interests
    Anything with wheels
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Wayfarer Convertible<br /><br /><br />
    1954 Ford F-100<br /><br /><br />
    1955 Chevy Bel Air 2 dr http


  • Location
    Yorkville Indiana
  • Interests
    Cars and trucks

Recent Profile Visitors

845 profile views
  1. Is this valve/tappet noise???

    The forum Tech Tip needs to be corrected or deleted.
  2. Is this valve/tappet noise???

    Here are my notes that I corrected during my rebuild. E denotes exhaust, you’ll see BOTH in the printed instructions is marked out
  3. Is this valve/tappet noise???

    It can be done with 2 crank positions but the instructions are wrong I found that out when I adjusted mine during my recent overhaul. As stated Some valves is listed twice . I’ll have to look and see if I have it wrote done correctly.
  4. Fuel and oil gauges

    It sounds like you have your issue with the fuel gauge solved then. I used the runtz on my 49 Wayfarer and the gauge works perfectly.
  5. Fuel and oil gauges

    Did you notice the original post was made stating he rewired the car to 12 volt with negative ground.? If the car had been left 6 volt there would be no need for the runtz resistor. quote: I have no idea what sender is fitted now, but it was working with an aftermarket fuel gauge and the vehicle is now 12V negative earth. Can I get away with the original gauge? How do I wire it? unquote:
  6. Fuel and oil gauges

    Install a runtz resistor and it will drop the voltage from 12 to 6 volts to your fuel gauge. Mounts directly to the back of the gauge. Use the search feature on the forum there’s a lot of information on the use of runtz resistors. You can buy them from Speedway or from E Bay vendors. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Runtz-12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Voltage-Reducer,2374.html?sku=91064101&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAjwwbHWBRBWEiwAMIV7E9rr2Mazuu0dCKB7FMbycZ6MJPV6BOXYX2I1aoS1VVU-i3mGSIXZqRoCkxQQAvD_BwE
  7. Bracket

    They are spacers the go between the bell housing and support brackets that bolt to the side of the engine and bell housing. Don’t leave them out or you may end up with a cracked bell housing.
  8. Is this valve/tappet noise???

    I have a spare road draft tube if you need it, I sent you a message. Dave
  9. Is this valve/tappet noise???

    Sure soumds like the hole for the crankcase road draft tube, you going to need that. Don’t know why someone would cover it with tape.
  10. Is this valve/tappet noise???

    A longer scraper may help. Don’t forget the hidden nut underneath in the center of the manifold.
  11. Is this valve/tappet noise???

    I set my valve clearance cold on my recent rebuild and all is fine. Invest in a set of Go-No Go feeler gauges. Cold settings recomendation I received from George Ashe’s son is for my 49 230 engine. It’s basically .002 more than hot recommended setting. Exhaust .012 Intake .010 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-68150-Go-No-Go-Feeler-Gauge/191008313420?epid=1039313128&hash=item2c78fb904c:g:hIsAAOSwc-tY3U6T
  12. Deleted

    Andy’s was also wrapped backwards, don’t know if they got that corrected or not, but thanks for the heads up on Andy’s and the help.
  13. Deleted

    Andy also gets $10 for shipping