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Branded

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Everything posted by Branded

  1. The forum Tech Tip needs to be corrected or deleted.
  2. Here are my notes that I corrected during my rebuild. E denotes exhaust, you’ll see BOTH in the printed instructions is marked out
  3. It can be done with 2 crank positions but the instructions are wrong I found that out when I adjusted mine during my recent overhaul. As stated Some valves is listed twice . I’ll have to look and see if I have it wrote done correctly.
  4. It sounds like you have your issue with the fuel gauge solved then. I used the runtz on my 49 Wayfarer and the gauge works perfectly.
  5. Did you notice the original post was made stating he rewired the car to 12 volt with negative ground.? If the car had been left 6 volt there would be no need for the runtz resistor. quote: I have no idea what sender is fitted now, but it was working with an aftermarket fuel gauge and the vehicle is now 12V negative earth. Can I get away with the original gauge? How do I wire it? unquote:
  6. Install a runtz resistor and it will drop the voltage from 12 to 6 volts to your fuel gauge. Mounts directly to the back of the gauge. Use the search feature on the forum there’s a lot of information on the use of runtz resistors. You can buy them from Speedway or from E Bay vendors. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Runtz-12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Voltage-Reducer,2374.html?sku=91064101&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAjwwbHWBRBWEiwAMIV7E9rr2Mazuu0dCKB7FMbycZ6MJPV6BOXYX2I1aoS1VVU-i3mGSIXZqRoCkxQQAvD_BwE
  7. Branded

    Bracket

    They are spacers the go between the bell housing and support brackets that bolt to the side of the engine and bell housing. Don’t leave them out or you may end up with a cracked bell housing.
  8. I have a spare road draft tube if you need it, I sent you a message. Dave
  9. Sure soumds like the hole for the crankcase road draft tube, you going to need that. Don’t know why someone would cover it with tape.
  10. A longer scraper may help. Don’t forget the hidden nut underneath in the center of the manifold.
  11. I set my valve clearance cold on my recent rebuild and all is fine. Invest in a set of Go-No Go feeler gauges. Cold settings recomendation I received from George Ashe’s son is for my 49 230 engine. It’s basically .002 more than hot recommended setting. Exhaust .012 Intake .010 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-68150-Go-No-Go-Feeler-Gauge/191008313420?epid=1039313128&hash=item2c78fb904c:g:hIsAAOSwc-tY3U6T
  12. I agree with having your master cylinder bored and sleeved.
  13. Look inside the bore and you’ll see the counter bore on one end, the other end will be a smooth bore.
  14. He posted that he used the ECI master cylinder kit and mounting brackets. I also used the ECI master cylinder and bracket kit on my 49 Wayfarer along with the remote fill kit. http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/chrysler_master_assemblies.html
  15. I had the same problem when I purchased my kit , couldnt find Terrill any place doing an internet search that was when I went with EGGE
  16. If the latch is cable operated make sure to push the cable all the way back in. Cable could be seized and open need of lubricant
  17. Headlights also has a circuit breaker tha t may have failed.
  18. I went with the remote fill option that ECI offers.
  19. I used their kit in my 49 Wayfarer and I’m very pleased with it.
  20. This is what I used, after doing some research I read this is as about a close to original that’s out there. I’m sure some will argue the fact but, this is what I went with. I used a detail paint gun and it turned out very well . Nice gloss and slick.
  21. When I pulled my engine I removed the transmission first. I also removed the top bar of the core support and grill. Pulled engine through the opening. Made it very easy.
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