Alex in SLC

For the hell of it, I am going to replace my return spring also!

I know it's been a few weeks, but I finally figured out what was going on with my brakes locking up. It was a two-fold problem with the new master cylinder. Problem one: when I disassembled, cleaned and transferred the pedal assemble from the old m/c to the new m/c I was precise in measuring the length of the brake push rod. Turns out it needed to be drastically shorted from factory length for the "new" m/c. I am assuming the cup on the m/c piston where the push touches is much more shallow than the factory one. I shortened the rod and I get a nice little spurt of fluid between 1/8"-1/4" of pedal travel. So I feel good about that! Problem two: I found I had to adjust the pedal return stop screw slightly probably due to slight differences in the casting of the m/c. Because it would hit the floor board before fully returning. I took it for a test drive and it seems as if the brakes are working as they should (minus some slight adjustments in the drums). Thanks for all the help!

I will double check. The manual says if not, disassemble the master cylinder and check the boots. What happens to the boots when they swell?

All new lines, steel and rubber, not NOS.

The vents are clear and when I rebuilt everything I replaced all the rubber flex line. I forgot to mention that...☹️

So I have inspected the master cylinder reservoir. The piston is clearing the relief port completely. BUT! there is no fluid flowing/spurting up through it? The pedal travel appears to be within spec of the manual. Also, after letting the car sit over night, the brakes are free and the pedal is traveling again. Thanks for all the help!

Hi Everyone! Got myself a problem with my new brakes. On my '48 D24 I have rebuilt the entire braking system: Master cylinder, steel lines, wheel cylinders and shoes. Put it all back together, got it bled and adjusted. Took it out for a spin and after just a couple times around the block the brakes were stuck and getting hot (all four wheels). After I parked it the pedal had no movement. I let the car sit for a day and when I return the shoes are retracted and I have movement in the pedal again. On the same note over the past couple weeks I have noticed that as the temperature rises throughout the day (here in SLC, UT) my brake light will randomly come on. I tap the brake pedal a couple times and it will go off. Could my problems be related to my proportioning valves? Thanks for the help! Alex

Awesome! Thank you! I really appreciate the help.

Hello Everyone! Got myself a little predicament. I have removed the master cylinder from my '48 D24 in hopes of replacing it. When I went to disassemble it I noticed it has "C-Washers" holding the pivot rod in place for the clutch and brake pedal (similar to those on the brake shoes). No luck finding a original or repo of the "Anchor Bolt Lock Removal Tool C-443". Any suggestions on how to remove the pivot rod without completely mangling the "C-Washers" ?

Thanks Merle! Rookie mistakes, but I'm getting there!

Hello Everyone, Question: I just got done replacing the "oil pump cover gasket" on my rotor style pump in my 48 Dodge D24. I DID NOT remove the pump from the engine. But when the cover came off the outer oil pump rotor came with it. I replaced the gasket, put the outer rotor back in, put the cover back on, tightened it up, filled the engine with oil and now I don't have any oil pressure.... What have I done... Did I put the rotor in wrong? Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks you, Alex

Awesome! Thank you for the help!

Hello Everyone! Long time follower of the forum, I've even posted over the years looking for a vehicle. But I have finally succeeded in finding my car, a 1948 Dodge D24 coupe. She's in good shape, but needs a little TLC. So you'll probably be hearing from me more and more. My question to you is, does anyone have a good source for cloth wire? Even though my car isn't going to be a Trailer Queen, I'd like to at least keep it period correct. Thanks for the help! Alex