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thebeebe5 last won the day on May 29 2015

thebeebe5 had the most liked content!

About thebeebe5

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Interests
    Auto, photography and musical instrument enthusiast
  • My Project Cars
    1937 Plymouth P4 business coupe; Complete and frequently used 1967 Ford F250 Camper Special, Unrestored (and not going to) 1970 VW Beetle family car purchased new in 70. Used frequently in cooler weather.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born in CT, raised in FL and now residing in AZ.
  • Occupation
    Registered Nurse


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343 profile views
  1. Tips on radio static

    Maybe it's just me, and I know this is literally no help at all, but I sure like listening to that flathead six ticking along.... Personally I don't play a radio in any of my old cars. Rather listen to the mill. It's music.... And if something is amiss I know about it quickly. Wish you luck with your problem!!
  2. Time for an overhaul...

    Glad someone is reading it, Mike. Thanks! Yeah... the 4-jaw. I'd rather have coffee with my mother-in-law.... Don't get me completely wrong; I use it. Have to when I index bellhousings because I have to make offset dowel pins, but it sure ain't my favorite. Didn't really think of it for this turn. I buried the armature end in the three jaw, ran the live center in to support the free end, read a runout at the commutator and turned it. I did have the armature in and out of the chuck two additional times and checked a runout each time and it was zero after that first turn. Not too worried about it. I got the starter apart before leaving for the day. Think I may have found at least part of an explanation for my slow starter cranking.... Someone brazed up the starter contact under the button, and it appears to be a rather poor contact. I'll look for proper replacements or figure some other fix....
  3. Time for an overhaul...

    Got all the valves filed and ready to install once the seats are cut and the valve angles ground on the valves themselves. These McQauy Norris "inlet" valves needed the most attention at the stem. Their number embossing swagged a good amount of metal around the stamp and made the valves tight in the guides. All valves get checked for this and filed gently with an old file so as to not aggressively remove material on the stem. Objective, reduce friction caused by metal displacement due to model number stamping. Shiny spots around letters are where material was removed.
  4. Time for an overhaul...

    Finished valve guide honing. Intakes at about 1.4 mil, exhaust at about 1.8 mil. I'm not the greatest at the honing process, but I'm learning. One exhaust came in at 2mil. One intake came in at 1.6mil. Suits me. Should run just fine.
  5. Time for an overhaul...

    Now I can start on the starter or finish honing the valve guides. i think I'll go to lunch.....
  6. Time for an overhaul...

    Got the generator completed today. Took the armature to Copperstate Alternator in Phoenix and they checked it out. No shorts. Perfect. Turns out the brushes that were in it were way too narrow for the brush holders. They also got me a replacement sealed bearing, so I'll only have to keep the bushing end lubed. Got appropriate sized brushes installed, everything all painted up and fingers crossed it charges correctly.
  7. Time for an overhaul...

    Finally back at it today after two weekends away. Got the generator all pained up this morning. It's drying now. While the paint dried I set up the armature in the lathe and checked run out of the commutator. Manual says to turn it if runout is over 2 mil. This one came in at only 1 mil, but heck.... it's already in the lathe. May as well make it perfect. I checked valve to stem clearance for both intake and exhaust valve guides. Nee valves felt a bit loose in the guide, but the only way to tell is to do a direct measurement. I found the intakes to have a taper from 0.005" at the top of the guide to 0.003" down at the bottom. The exhaust guides came in at over 0.008", so all the guides are worn out of spec. I'll be reaming the currently installed guides and installing a silicone bronze liner in each guide today. Finally feel like I'm doing something besides cleaning, blasting and measuring parts.
  8. Time for an overhaul...

    Well, my pistons arrived from JE.... Anyone see a problem compared to my custom piston order form above...? They also sent pins and billed me for them, and I specifically marked no pins..... These will be going back tomorrow, but Pat won't be able to final hone the cylinders until he has pistons in hand. It's always something..... Got a replacement first main bearing from Bernbaum. They sent a single NOS which will work fine, but when torqued up that main came in at 0.0005" smaller than the other three mains. No problem at all, We just asked the crank grinder to grind main journal No 1 a half a mil smaller than the other three to maintain a consistent 0.002" oil clearance for every main. This is precisely the reason to order bearings first and find out what you need your journals ground to for proper oil relief.
  9. Head Gasket Replacement

    If that's the FelPro gasket I believe it goes copper side down. I had the gasket kit opened for my 201 a couple of weeks ago and that was the only way it could go on properly.
  10. Time for an overhaul...

    It is 100% standard at this shop. They do this on every engine prior to spec'ing the crank journal sizes so a precise oil relief can be established upon assembly. If the shop is assembling the motor I would expect that they torque up the bearings pre-install to make sure they fit properly and verify the crank grind will allow proper oiling. You can always ask them too. A good shop should be approachable and appreciate that you're wanting to learn a bit about the process.
  11. Time for an overhaul...

    First "issue". Pat was torquing the mains with bearings installed to determine main bearing journal size for the crank grinder and found 0.001" taper in the front main bearing. Upon removal it was noted that one edge of one half of the bearing had a bump that caused the bearing to torque up at an angle. Not good. Would have certainly been an issue with a 0.0015" oil clearance. This bump could have been machined out of the bearing shell half, but there did not appear to be enough material on the short side to provide the required crush to keep the bearing from spinning. Could have been seriously bad if it hadn't been checked. Contacted Bernbaum's and a replacemenet should go out soon.
  12. Time for an overhaul...

    Got the JE piston order form done today. That's about all. My 50th birthday, and I'm not working in the shop ALL DAY!! And I'm away from the shop for the next two weekends. At this point if we get the pistons ordered and the crank journals spec'd for the grinder while I'm away I'll be in great shape in the next few weeks as the last of the "big parts" come in.
  13. Time for an overhaul...

    He does indeed. AD, I've always been enamored with the process myself Glad to be able to share. I realize that some of this "overboard" process is not done my many, and certainly an engine can do fine in skipping some of these steps, but pretty much every motor built here goes through the same steps. Absolutely everything is checked, and on an older enginelike this if there's a modern improvement that can be employed (zero decking, balancing, proper quench set up, custom bits like the pins/pistons I'll be using) it gets done. Nope. No spring washers on these when I disassembled. They were castleated nuts with cotter pins. The only reason we changed them was because the caps did not fit the rod bolts snuggly and thus wouldn't torque in the same position repeatedly, otherwise I'd have put it right back together with the originals. Not at this point. Would have to resize again to do it now. Not sure if they need it.... i spoke with Tom Langdon last night and he felt they should be done especially with the bolt change, but the sizing has already been done. I'll discuss with the machinist this weekend, but we'll likely run it as is. Edit: definitely no shot peening needed. It's not a process he has ever found to be required and has not seen any rod failures that could have been attributed to lack of shot peening in literally thousands of stock rod rebuild/resize processes.
  14. Time for an overhaul...

    Rods are being finished this morning. Pat installed the custom pin bushings and honed them to fit the pin with a 0.0005" oil clearance. He's balancing them now. There was up to a 7g difference just in the rod big end weights. Once the big ends are done he'll move to the small ends. He also had a bit of trouble with rod No2. Initially I'd thought perhaps this motor had never been rebuilt. As I've gotten into it though it was apparent that prior work had been done. One thing that happened during reassembly during a prior rebuild was that one of the square(ish) headed rod bolts was installed a bit crooked in its rod hole. Rather than straightening the bolt prior to cap installation the assembler simply torqued the bolt which dug a gouge in the rod and pulled the cap 0.004" to the side rendering the bearing bore no longer round. Didn't seem to be a real problem though as there was no unusual wear at rod journal No2, but Pat won't finish a rod like that.... he's made it as close as he can get it now withought sourcing another replacement rod. Think it's about .5 mil out now, hardly enough to cause an issue. And hopefully by the end of the day we'll have the main and rod sizes measured with bearings installed so the crank grinder can be told to what size the bearings need to be turned. Shooting for a 0.0015"-0.0020" oil clearance.
  15. Speedo drive pinion oil seal

    DD, this is a 17T gear. Not sure what the rear ratio is on the car but I assume it's stock and I'm guessing there weren't a lot of options way back then? I'll find out at some point, but I just haven't gotten that far yet.