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thebeebe5 last won the day on May 29 2015

thebeebe5 had the most liked content!

About thebeebe5

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Interests
    Auto, photography and musical instrument enthusiast
  • My Project Cars
    1937 Plymouth P4 business coupe; Complete and frequently used 1967 Ford F250 Camper Special, Unrestored (and not going to) 1970 VW Beetle family car purchased new in 70. Used frequently in cooler weather.

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  • Biography
    Born in CT, raised in FL and now residing in AZ.
  • Occupation
    Registered Nurse

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  1. Mack's right. First engine I ever took in I'd made a long list. The shop owner sat with me and answered every question. He was actually pleased that I was that interested. Give him time to answer before jumping to the next question. Also, maybe establish an email thread he can answer at his leisure (when not working on yours or other's engines). Has worked for me in the past. Good luck, and post some progress pictures!
  2. Ha ha! Sweet! Would look cool on a blueprint sheet. Nope. Have never seen that. Not sure how much gains could be realized if you tried, but as you already know, completely unnecessary. This pump was actually rebuilt at Kellogg Automotive in Maricopa AZ. All they do is water pumps. And they did a fantastic job with a quick turn around. I suppose I could have tried it, but it would have been a first time, and I'd rather trust it to them. The whole guts have been replaced. They kept it Mopar with a NOS Chrysler impeller from another application and a different shaft to fit the bearing they installed. It turns beautifully, and now maintenance free! Of to my real job, but I'll be thinking about how to massage a water pump short turn for improved flow all day now...
  3. Water pump looks pretty good and spins easily. That bearing in place of the original bushing should be a nice friction reducer... And Pat was setting up the block for a main line-hone. Should get done early tomorrow morning. Things are coming along...
  4. Any way to tell what year/month this pump was made or what it might have come on? Looks like a 13.5 on here, a PF and the numbers 632437...?
  5. Transmission progress yesterday. Almost all back together. At least far enough to bag it and put it on the shelf.... Waiting on a backordered gasket kit and rear seal and it'll be ready. Ended up taking the best parts of the two transmissions I had and doing the assembly. About 1/2 through and my buddy needed to use the lathe which was right behind me. I came back to metal shards all over the place and had to re-clean and start over. Oh well... it was the only empty bench space in the entire shop, and I did make progress. Should get mains honed on the block this week. Water pump rebuild is done. It got bored for a sealed bearing rather than the old bushing, and a new impeller fitted on a new shaft. Not cheap, but not a Chinese re-pop either. Still has the grease fitting in place although I'll no longer need to use it. Clutch is rebuilt for less than I could have ordered and shipped a rebuild. Shop thinks it's the original clutch too... And I keep forgetting to pick up the flywheel and take it with me at the end of the day.... It needs surfaced and a ring gear. I'll have to collect that tomorrow.
  6. Welcome to the forum. Nice looking car! Time to bust a few knuckles!!
  7. I replaced the entire brake system in my '37 with that steel nickel copper alloy line. Wonderful stuff. Easier to bend by hand than with a bender.... AND it won't ever rust.
  8. Nothing like the school of experience to drive this lesson home….
  9. ARP rod bolts are in. Time to resize some rods...
  10. I don't believe 4g would be noticeable in a low reving engine. JMO. I'd run with it. Your other option would be to weight match every other piston. IIRC you arent doing a complete tear-down, correct?
  11. Had wanted to keep it stock. If i go the Spicer route I'll just have a whole new shaft made. It is a consideration. Can't do that until the Engine and trans are back in the car and I can take measurements. I'll take it to MasterShaft in PHX. If they can't get the trunnions out I'll wait and get them measurements once I'm all reassembled.
  12. Good image. The resource states filler tubes were all black, or the engines at that point?
  13. Tried pressing out the trunnions on my '37 driveshaft and was unsuccessfull even with a 10 ton Sunnen press. The manual doesn't mention any pins or retaining hardware, and the given spec for installation having each side be within 0.006" once reinstalled makes me think there's no such hardware. So, can these things just be that stubborn? I'll try some heat next, but wondering what other's experiences have been. Here's a look at my joint boots. At some point the rear boot split and a homemade "boot" installed. Actually, this joint had grease in it. The rigged fix did its job. Front was quite dry, but it still had what I am guessing was the original leather boot in place. Hardened with age... Maybe never taken off or serviced.
  14. Looks great. Looking forward to getting to this point with my own.
  15. You'll get mixed opinions on this if you have the original main caps, but at our shop every block gets checked. If you sourced the main caps from another block then I would absolutely have the line bore or line hone done!