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thebeebe5 last won the day on May 29 2015

thebeebe5 had the most liked content!

About thebeebe5

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    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Interests
    Auto, photography and musical instrument enthusiast
  • My Project Cars
    1937 Plymouth P4 business coupe;1967 Ford F250 Camper Special,1970 VW Beetle family car purchased new in 70

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  • Biography
    Born in CT, raised in FL and now residing in AZ.
  • Occupation
    Registered Nurse

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  1. Thanks fellows. Jerry, I'm guessing the T25 would be the specs for my motor.... Here are the measurements I posted earlier today in my "overhaul" thread. Andy, can you confirm this with your information? We doubted this motor had been apart ever in its life, but it's obvious that at least a valve job had been done as a couple of exhaust valves had been changed.
  2. Thanks @Andydodge. Found the nominal sizes for the (i guess 217.8?) in the bearing books, but that would mean that my crank had been turned .250" already because I am measuring mains at 2.2450 (roughly). Certainly excessive, and the bearing shells were thin, not super thick as if the crank had been turned to death... Still scratching my head ATM....
  3. Pistons off and rods bead blasted. I'll check the wrist pin bushings for size before leaving the shop today. 'Bout time for a cold beer...
  4. Checked valve installed height to be 1.635". That puts the existing springs at 45lb seat pressure and about 97lbs open at a 0.321" lift as measured on the cam lobe (Exhaust and Intake have the same measured lift). Doesn't seem like much, but there's less than 10% variance in measuring every spring. I'll poke around a bit and see if that's good enough for a stock rebuilt 201.
  5. @Plymouthy Adams Would be happy to have your numbers as a reference because I have nothing else. If you wouldn't mind reposting. Or PM me?
  6. I work at the machine shop, Don. This isn't an engine we routinely deal with. Looking up bearings in Clevite, Fed Mogul and King books and we can get back as far as a 218cid. No 201cid. Would like a link to a published spec for both crank and rod journals.
  7. Can anyone direct me to a source for some crankshaft journal specs for a '37 201cid motor? Trying to get a rough idea of where this crank is in its current state and get some bearings on the way so we can spec the grind on the crank. Thanks!
  8. Crank's a bit out of speck. Of course it's out of round and tapered too...
  9. Got it. Used 1/4" tooling stock with a hook fashioned at one end and a 1/2" 20 thread nut of slide hammer use. Picked a lot out with a magnet as well. I'll weld it up for re-use.
  10. Got that already PA.... It's safely out of the block. I can see some leftovers of the water tube. Trying to pick them out now....
  11. Back at it today. I have to wonder what's actually left in there... This could take all day....
  12. 5 litres or 5 quarts? Hoping you have oil registering to the "full" mark on the dipstick.....
  13. Unless that motor has had guides done already at some point they're likely cast as part of the block. Cast iron works fine as a guide and the casting would have been drilled to precisiy fit the valve stem at the factory. For worn "guides" in a cast block a machinist would drill the cast section out and drive in a (usually) silicone bronze replacement guide which is an upgrade from the old iron guide. Not something to be done in an assembled engine. You'll end up with a metallic mess.... New valves might tighten things up a tad as valve stems do wear, but that metal is harder than the casting it rides in, so it's likely not worn much. I expect (hope) to be reusing most of the 80 year old valves in my engine and I'll be updating all my steps in my "time for an overhaul" thread. At some point two exhaust valves got replaced, so I don't have all the original valves available. Some of my guides are fine, but some exhibit wear enough to certainly be out of spec (although I have not measured any at this point, just noted there was too much "wiggle" upon disassembly). I'll be drilling all guides and replacing with the silicone bronze inserts.
  14. I'll be CCing my '37 201cid when it comes back from its vatting. Will add the value i find here.
  15. The only way to know for sure is to "cc" the head. Easily done on a flathead because you don't have to put valves back in the head. Smear a bit of transgel around the bread slice and stick a plexi plate with a hole to it. Have the hole at the edge of the chamber. Fill it up starting from a known volume in a pipette or use a syringe and keep track of volume.