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thebeebe5 last won the day on March 10

thebeebe5 had the most liked content!

About thebeebe5

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Surprise, AZ
  • Interests
    Auto, photography and musical instrument enthusiast
  • My Project Cars
    1937 Plymouth P4 business coupe; Complete and frequently used 1967 Ford F250 Camper Special, Unrestored (and not going to) 1970 VW Beetle family car purchased new in 70. Used frequently in cooler weather.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born in CT, raised in FL and now residing in AZ.
  • Occupation
    Registered Nurse


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679 profile views
  1. thebeebe5

    Time for an overhaul...

    Very close to wrapping this project up, or so I tell myself.... i know I have a long way to go. Last weekend got the motor painted to my satisfaction. Finally. Three tries to get a fairly smooth coat of paint. It’s not perfect, but it will do. Today got the oil lines fitted for the full flow oil filter. Recall I’d started out with AN-6 fittings in mind. Ended up going with a -8 fitting that matched the ID of the pressure side oil galley so as not to restrict oil flow. But the larger fittings would have interfered with each other unless I went with a different style fitting, such as a 45° angled nipple to keep the two fittings more separated. As it turned out there was a lot of meat on the nut side that screwed the 3/8” NPT threads into the block and I simply chucked each up in the lathe and turned opposite ends to make room. Now they’ll fit right in there without issue. Got the water pump mated up. Fuel pump on. Need to get some 1” heater hose for the bypass so I can permanantly install the water neck. It’s just perched up there after last weekend’s paint.
  2. thebeebe5

    Distributor shaft to engine block gasket?

    So, looking at that cork gasket.... if it gets compressed when the distributor hold down is tightened it’s going to cover up the oul return hole in the block bore for the distributor. I think.... Has anyone else seen a metal washer like I took off? It fits the hole and distributor shaft like it belongs.... maybe a rubber backing on it at one point...? We have a large assortment of o-rings here I could use, and that was discussed at the shop. Just wondering f there’s a proper way....
  3. Don’t recall anything other than the metal cup washer (pictured) sealing the distributor when I disassembled the motor. Looking through my gasket kit and wondering if any of the few round and similar sized gaskets like the cork or paper ones pictured are required when reinstalling the distributor. The service manual doesn’t show even the metal cup washer in the schematic. Thoughts?
  4. Just a PSA... A few years ago I had a heckuva time finding these. Someone here at the forum confirmed they were in short supply and offered a few sets of older, dried up (and they cautioned likely shrunk) stock for templates to make my own. Well, last week I went searching again and lo and behold they popped up in stock at Autozone with free shipping over $25. Ordered three sets at $8.99/ea and they showed up today. New stock, nice looking Fel Pro cork side cover gaskets. Autozone order number is #072260 and the website said mail order only. Hopefully stock will remain for those of us that need them.
  5. thebeebe5

    Time for an overhaul...

    Last weekend and this weekend my time was spent painting the trans and installing the brake, and painting, repainting and RE-repainting the motor. First try was Duplicolor gloss black. It went on like oatmeal..... sanded it down the next day and tried a different batch of Duplicolor and got more oatmeal. Dammit. Sanded it again yesterday and used a different paint; the Seymour Hi Tech paint the shop uses for just about everything. What a difference! It actually shines, and went on wet and leveled fairly well for a rattle can. Could have been better with a proper spray gun and some good automotive paint, but I didn’t go that route. Maybe my next engine... This one is now waiting in the back row of the engine room to get back into its car. Also, still stripping and painting various small parts in preparation for reinstallation. Also got the original air cleaner stripped. It will be gloss black again.
  6. thebeebe5

    Where to find parts question.

    All kinds of places. Ebay is a good source. Andy Bernbaum another. Others may chome in with additional options.
  7. thebeebe5

    1/4" or 3/16" Brake Line?

    The lines on my '37 were all 1/4". I bought a 50' roll and separate fittings at my local NAPA. Ended up with a bit left over. The price on that Amazon listing is really good especially if it's 1/4". I paid a bit under $1/foot for the line only.
  8. thebeebe5

    Time for an overhaul...

    I'm jealous of that cabinet too, @Cpt.Fred. Brian says that's the best purchase he made for the shop all those years ago. LOVE the flip top lid, and the capacity is enormous. I regularly soda blast vintage V12 heads in there and there's more than enough room. Routinely stand big V8 heads on end, too.
  9. thebeebe5

    The Great Carburetor & Induction Thread

    Ford did the same on some Paxton supercharged cars from the 60s.
  10. thebeebe5

    The Great Carburetor & Induction Thread

    Blow through will be easier for me to execute.
  11. thebeebe5

    The Great Carburetor & Induction Thread

    Already o-ringed the theottle shaft. Don't want aerosolized fuel sneaking out there. Not too worried about a little leak around the choke shaft. It's pretty tight, but a little loss there won't be a major concern.
  12. thebeebe5

    The Great Carburetor & Induction Thread

    Nope. Blow through. Not a fan of draw. Working out a plan now.... there are ways.... there have to be ways....
  13. thebeebe5

    The Great Carburetor & Induction Thread

    I plan to run the original 1" bore BBR1 on my 201 with a turbo, assuming I can get it jetted satisfactorily. If it's not up to the task I'll start looking at other options, but hopefully I can open up the circuitry enough to keep the AFR where I need it. I'll be updating your turbo thread as we move the engine into that second stage.
  14. thebeebe5

    EPiX's 1942 Plymouth Coupe Resto

    Nice work. I will say that if you are replacing brake hardlines that the new NiCopp alloy lines are a dream to work with. Did my whole '37 with the stuff and it made the job so much easier.
  15. thebeebe5

    Time for an overhaul...

    Yesterday and today: Finished the carb. Just needed to pick the rest of a broken brass valve screw out of the choke shaft and run a #3-48 tap through it, then replace the screws with new ones. A little locktite after install and it's ready. Also fixed the choke spring up onto a jig and bead blasted it, then hit it with some gloss black. Bead blasted the bellhousing. It's not quite finished here, but I ran it through again and gave it a clear lacquer coat and removed a broken motor mount bolt. Chased all the threads prior to final blast and paint. Today got the manifolds hung with a couple of nuts just to locate turbo oil return, had Brian weld the return bung in and after a thorough cleaning installed the pan after checking oil pickup clearance (which was right at 1/2"). Partially masked the block for paint, and there it sits. Paint will have to wait. I'm done in....