cerick305

My starter quit working, took it out and basically there’s a short somewhere. Cleaned rhe brushes and rest, and still the same. Looking into a rebuild kit but moving more to a replacement because I don’t like skimping on starting and stopping.. Anyone have suggestions where to get either?

Correct, I used a jumper from battery (negative) to terminal then striked jumper from battery (positive) to mounting holes on starter.

I purchased a used starter same model number as my old original on the word that it does work. Before I decide to put it in the car, I hooked it up to a my 6volt car battery. Positive for ground and negative on the starter screw terminal. Nothing happened, no turning, no vibrating, nothing. I am assuming this replacement starter is also no good. Am I missing something?

I’m looking for a replacement starter for Autolite mz-4133 and not having any luck. Any suggestions?

I’ve replaced my 6 volt battery in my 1947 Plymouth two years ago and it appears I now need to replace it again. I’ve only had the Plymouth for 4 years, is this common or should I be buying a special 6 volt battery? thanks, chad

I will try charging it for a few days and trickle charging it and see if it helps. Thanks all for the input. Over the winter I don’t drive it at all, but did charge battery for several hours before starting it up in the spring.

In my 47 special deluxe Plymouth, the headlights are and always have been dim. Probably they are the correct brightness for this car but nowadays people on road are looking for brighter lights. I thought to replace the bulbs to see if new ones would be brights but then thought if there are any 6 volt leds available for headlights...? Lowering my total wattage will also help in making slightly brighter. Anyone know of any 6v leds?

Yes at idle speed

I am only getting 4-4.5 volts from generator. I test this with engine running and generator disconnected from battery. I assume generator should be at 6 volts when no load is on it......? Through votag drop test, I'm getting a pretty consistent small voltage drop through components up to the headlights. Makes me think nothing abnormal with the voltage loss.

I will try that first, but also getting alot of heat from the main light switch

From doing voltage drop test I think the problem my be in the main light switch. Plus when moving the switch around, items turn on and off on their own. But I don't think all the problem is in the switch, seems I am losing to much through the headlight beam switch also. I haven't taken it apart yet. Anyone know where I can get a new Main Light Switch for a P15 1947 special deluxe?

I don't want to look into replacing with halogens since I'm trying to get my wattage down. I'm getting only 3.75 volts at my headlamps (I'm on 6 volt system). Seems like the ground is fine when I run a test wire from battery. May need to replace the negative wire to the lights. Thanks everyone for your help.

A few days ago I grease the fitting on the radiator fan on my 1947 Plymouth Deluxe. Today I noticed a steady dribble of coolant coming from inside the fan housing. What is the fix, do I have to pull the entire radiator out? Not sure why this would happen only after greasing. Thanks, Chad

I purchased a new water pump from NAPA however the gasket that was included looked like a thin piece of cardboard. Little nervous about using it. Should I also apply some high temp gasket sealant? Don't want to put it all back together just to find it still leaks....

Was it for a 1947 special deluxe? Would you have the part number?

I am also looking for an oil filter on p15 1947 plymouth special deluxe. The Fram C134PL link is from amazon and not sure if it is the correct one for my vehicle. Thanks, Chad

I've noticed my brake pedal seems to be soft initially then the second press its normal pressure. I figured I had air in the lines. I bleed the lines starting on passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, and finally driver front. Took it for a drive, and same thing. Initial press it is softer than the second. So I figured I didn't bleed the lines good enough. So I did it again with same results. I don't have any lines leaking and master cylinder seems leak free. Now when I say the initial press is soft, the vehicle still breaks fine. But there is a definite hard pedal feel on the second press. Then after a few moments (10 seconds or so) without pressing pedal then the pedal goes back to its softer press. Anyone have any ideas? What I did was open the brake blender valve after hooking plastic hose up to it pitch upward to trap brake fluid on valve and air would rise up. Then pressed brake pedal 4-5 times. Looked and hose had filled with brake fluid and then I tightened bleeder valve. Then checked and refilled master cylinder. I did this process over for the other three brakes.

Currently cap is sealed without a breath hole. But seems to brake fine. Not sure f it needs to be changed.

Ok, I replaced the master cylinder and rebled the lines. All is working great. Thanks all for your help. However, one more question. I noticed with old master cylinder and new cylinder the metal plug (cap) on top doesn't appear to be sealed. When I was bleeding the cylinder on new one, I held upside down and small fluid leaked out. This is the case for new one and old one. So when I was completed, I put a couple layers of Teflon tap on cap to seal it off. My mind of thinking says it needs to be completely air tight. Then why wouldn't the cap have some sort of gasket?

I have a similar problem, when completely full I get a reading of 3/4 full. When completely empty, I get a reading of 1/4 full.

Would it be difficult to switch to double circuit?

With it all apart and when I manually press the piston into the master cylinder, slight amount of residual brake fluid is on the outer (atmosphere) side of the piston. I think the piston gasket isn't holding as well as it should be. At what point to I replace just the gasket with kit I purchased or replace the entire master cylinder? I haven't priced out master cylinders but I'd hate to put it all back together and find out the master cylinder had scratches or something that was allowing fluid to pass piston ...

It appears that I didn't have the cup that's I between the piston and stop. Not sure if that would make it not seal properly. I orders the attached kit. Hopefully this will do it.

It appears the boot on the master cylinder is leaking when I squeeze it. I assume this is how air is getting in the lines... Anyone know where to get a replacement?

Do I use any thread sealant on the brake line?