cerick305

Where would I adjust it?

I converted my headlights to LED, but only issue is they flicker with the generator.  Would like to know of a solution for that.

But really love the 6V led headlights, now people can actually see me at night!

I’d like spark plug wires that look similar to original (and similar to ones in picture above).  However, after getting zapped from my old ass wires, I would like something that hasn’t taken the beating of time.  Any ideas where I can get newly manufactured wires but with an old look?

6 hours ago, Jerry Roberts said:

Congratulations on getting it running smoothly . I would be shopping for a NOS Autolite set of points on ebay .  If you post your distributor number I can look up the Autolite part number for the points . And a little distributor cam lube is needed . 

Distributor Part no. 1120566 auto-lite number from plate IGS-4207-1

solar spar part no. 1120522

I had multiple issues going on, first the point gap in distributor was touching.  The little plastic rotating arm in distributor had a piece broken off, I super glued that back on.  Maybe that was making it unstable...  Then after that, the timing was better but pretty far off.  As I got it closer to top dead center it sounded better and better.  Then after a random shock, I decided to only adjust the distributor with the vehicle off, ha..

Now ‘47 start instantly and I’ve never heard her run so soft and stable.  Unreal!

Thank you all very much, you helped a rookie get this vehicle better than I ever had it running.  ‘47 was my papa’s and he gave me it just before he passed.  He drove this up until he was 95 and loved it, and I see why!  

If you guys ever need design/engineering on fire sprinkler work, let me know lol.

Thanks,

Chad

9 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

according to my flat rate book for Plymouth from 1939-50 the spark timing mark on the dampener is TDC or top dead center  the sparkplug gap should be set at 25 for 1938-48.

 

Yes a 12 volt timing light will give you a good light but remember to switch out the clips you are positive ground on your car.  Time off on number 6 spark plug wire. So the red clip goes to the ground and the negative to power 

 

The original timing was done with number 6 plug.  When looking at you head there is a small bolt just in front of the number 6 plug this was removed and then the timing light and timing rod would be placed inthis hole and then the light would go on when the piston came to the top.

 

Also the points gap is 20

 

I would suggest that you get a service manual for your car because this will answer a lot of your questions.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

Before I make such a large adjustment, I do want to make sure I am understanding correctly.  I am to get the center line (top dead center) lined up with the arrow on crank shaft?  See picture, with engine off I turned crank shaft to position I was viewing with timing light so you can see how far off it is... driver side is to left 

14 minutes ago, desoto1939 said:

according to my flat rate book for Plymouth from 1939-50 the spark timing mark on the dampener is TDC or top dead center  the sparkplug gap should be set at 25 for 1938-48.

 

Yes a 12 volt timing light will give you a good light but remember to switch out the clips you are positive ground on your car.  Time off on number 6 spark plug wire. So the red clip goes to the ground and the negative to power 

 

The original timing was done with number 6 plug.  When looking at you head there is a small bolt just in front of the number 6 plug this was removed and then the timing light and timing rod would be placed inthis hole and then the light would go on when the piston came to the top.

 

Also the points gap is 20

 

I would suggest that you get a service manual for your car because this will answer a lot of your questions.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

Is the TDC set at idle or a certain RPM?  I've also seen people plug the vacuum line during setting the timing, is this necessary?  Also, thanks for the valuable info...

38 minutes ago, 1949 Wraith said:

Run some chalk over the timing marks to help them stand out when you are stobing. You know how to loosen the distributor and rotate to adjust timing?

Yes, I do know how to loosen distributor and rotate to adjust, but I'm not sure of what numbers I'm suppose to be achieving...

7 hours ago, Sniper said:

Manual chokes, the OP says he pulls it out, are not on/off switches.  You may not need as much choke, try pulling it halfway.

 

But the flash in the carb does concern me.  Sounds like a timing issue, or a bad valve.  I know, I am such an optimist but I do have 13 letters in my last name so you know where my optimism comes in.

I also now think my timing is off.  Going to try and fix, but not sure what to do.

So I recheck plug gap and .028 inches as the manual says.  So I’m going to look at timing but have a pretty basic question (and if there is a step by step timing section in this forum please let me know).  

The manual states to put chalk on fan pulley at zero degrees, I’m assuming that is point DC on the attached picture...  Now what degree am I looking for at idle and what degree at rpms?

Timing light connected to plug 1?

Also, do I need a timing light for a 6volt system or should my old timing light work properly.

5 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

Does the Plymouth have the sisson automatic choke?  If it does it this properly adjusted? If you have a sisson choke check the linkage for the choke and the choke butterfly this might be binding.  You said the carb was rebuilt did you you rebuild the carb? Assuming it is a Ball and Ball carb.  Di you put the two inner small ball bearing back into the proper holes.  These are small but they are different in overall size and if you switched them this can also cause problems.

 

When rebuilding a carb suggest that you get several cardboard egg boxes and then number each hole. As you disassemble the carb put each individual part into a separate slot so that when you are putting it back to gether you then can take the appropriate part from the numbered egg hole 

 

What carter B&B carb number are you working on? I might have some information on the rebuilding steps that might help you with you issue.

 

Rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.com

No auto choke and carb was last rebuilt 5 years ago by someone else.  From reading everyone’s responses, I heading forward checking timing.  Thanks 

These are all pretty good ideas and will look into them.  However, many have mention a compression issue....  I’ve notice my wipers not working very well and I am aware that they are powered off the engine compression...  Could this be sign I have a compression issue?

I have 1947 P15special deluxe with a Carter B&B carb.  I have issues starting, eventually it starts but with much effort.

It cranks just fine and appear to be getting plenty of fluid.  Once it does get started and warms up, it will stall out (not often).

A few additional information:

*when cold and pulling choke all the way out, car will not start what-so ever.  I did look in carb and looks as if the flapper is completely closed when choke pulled.

*Cleaned air cleaner to make sure there wasn’t extra resistance in air flow.  But with cleaner off, I did get a flash of flame under hood,  I quickly stopped turning it over.

*Spark plugs replaced and gap checked.

*New battery and rebuilt starter installed last year

*When accelerating, sometimes engine seems to hesitate before responding.

Does anyone think I need to do some sort of adjusting of carb..  Anyone have info on that or any other recommendations?

Thanks everyone for this forum, I do ask the masses here for advice often and appreciate all the feed back I receive!

Thanks,

Chad

Thanks!

Wonder if wrapping electric tape would work as a gasket...?

Anyone have more specifics on how this type of filter works?  It appear there is a wool type material in the (Removable) cap but is there also something contained in the base?  Seems like a hollow space that traps the some kerosene when cleaning.  Doe this provide any function?

30 minutes ago, Richard Cope said:

Have been using LED's headlights in my 39 Ply. for over a year which has a stock electrical system (6 volt / positive ground).  They produce a light that is much whiter and brighter than the standard bulb.  The ones that I am using fit the standard socket with the three post that holds the bulb, just a matter of changing the bulbs.  With the lights on & the motor not running the needle on the amp gauge doesn't move, seem to be using very little electric. Disadvantage is they do not seem to project outward as much as a standard bulb and they are expensive, believe around $20.00.  Purchased from Classic Dynamo and Regulator Conversions (www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com).  Part # is FE2A (6-23v Pos Earth P30d (APF) 40/36 w "Double Dipper".  If ordering, be careful for they also sell as a negative ground.  They also sell another a bulb that fits in the parking light socket of the 39 Ply.  (located above the headlight), highly recommend - very bright.  Part # is AE1C (6v 10w BA9s).  Check out their web site may find it interesting.

Why switch generator to an alternator?

Has anyone experimented with LED 6 Volt headlights?  Would really like to convert mine for brightness issues...

I have a P15 1947 Special deluxe.  I need to pump the brake pedal a few times to get pressure buildup.  I thought maybe I was losing fluid, but I am not.  Master cylinder was replaced few years ago and since then, I haven't had to add a drop of fluid.  Brakes work fine, but need to pump to get pressure in the pedal.  Not sure what a solution would be?

no

My '47 special deluxe starts strong, but then slips after holding down the starter for more than 2-3 seconds.  I would need to do this 5-6 times for it to start.  I just recently replaced the starter, but had this problem before hand.

4 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

Unless I misunderstood what you wrote,you need to attach a jumper on one of your contacts,and then strike it against the other contact to complete the connection.

I usually just use jumper cables and clamp one on the starter terminal,and then strike the other against the part where the mounting holes are on the rear.

 

In other words,you have an open circuit and need to complete it.

Correct, I used a jumper from  battery (negative) to terminal then striked jumper from  battery (positive) to mounting holes on starter. 

I purchased a used starter same model number as my old original on the word that it does work.   Before I decide to put it in the car, I hooked it up to a my 6volt  car battery. Positive for ground and negative on the starter screw terminal.  Nothing happened, no turning, no vibrating, nothing.  I am assuming this replacement starter is also no good.  Am I missing something?

I’m looking for a replacement starter for Autolite mz-4133 and not having any luck.  Any suggestions?