Jump to content

59bisquik

Members
  • Content Count

    944
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

59bisquik last won the day on March 10

59bisquik had the most liked content!

About 59bisquik

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor
  • Birthday June 7

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pinon Hills, CA
  • Interests
    Hotrods and Sand Rails
  • My Project Cars
    1955 C1B
    1954 Ford Coupe
    2010 Chenowth Explorer
    2002 Funco Hustler II

Converted

  • Location
    Piñon Hills, CA
  • Interests
    .

Recent Profile Visitors

2,135 profile views
  1. I purchased the 718-8235 studs from Jegs. 1/2-20 x 1 1/2" .615 knurl. Then grab a 39/64" drill bit.
  2. How about using an ebony stain on the wood so you can adjust how dark it gets and you could still the wood grain?
  3. I just purchased escutcheons from Peter at Dodge City Truck in Canada.
  4. I have been there when in Alliance, NE. Its pretty cool to see as roadside attractions go.
  5. The cylinder seems like the easy part. Coming from the offroad world, hydraulic cylinders for steering assist are fairly common. I think the hard part will be the control valve. Finding the right size tapered shaft for the pitman and a close enough thread on the end to mate up to the drag link.
  6. Those posted are for a Ford or GM vehicle. They are very similar. I will have to scan the page out of the manual for the factory setup. It is similar but I have never seen one. I am thinking this could work with a bit of fab.
  7. I know that there are many posts asking about how to add power steering to our old trucks. I have been thinking about the electric option since I have one on my sand rail and it works well. But I have done more digging looking for other options. Why has nobody mentioned the factory power steering setup? It looks very similar to the Ford and GM styles with the control valve attached to the pitman arm. My thought was get the control valve from one of those which are fairly common and attach it to the pitman arm and then cut and thread the drag link so it would go into the end of the control valve. Then get the slave cylinder and fit it to the tie rod. Was this system horrible or just very rare and there are no parts made for it?
  8. So what is it made out of? Is it like the factory cardboard type stuff? How hard was that headliner to install? Looks fantastic by the way! And I see they have one for my truck...
  9. The only thing to check is the throw out bearing. There are two different sizes for the inside dimension. I had the large truck bearing and the smaller car input shaft collar and it tore up the bearing. You can just reach up inside and see how much play there is. There is about a 1/2" of difference between the two, so its easy to see if you have the right one or not. Second, if you do need a new one, now would be the time to replace it. Rock Auto has them for a good price. Here is what I did to adapt my larger to smaller setup... nice oilite bushing.
  10. On a positive note, the 354 is much better for aftermarket support than say the Dodge 315-325. Intake manifolds and aluminum rockers for example.
  11. The tranny is 4 bolts to remove. Then try the bell housing bolts and see if it will come off the dowels and lift up. It MIGHT come off without taking the clutch apart. Then swap the car bell housing onto it and bolt the tranny back up. No need to modify the linkages if you dont have to.
  12. That appears to be a 54+ truck bell housing and linkage. Looks the same as my setup. I would swap the bell housings so you can run your factory setup. I dont know how hard it would be to modify the linkages. Its very possible that the clutch and pressure plate bolt right over. Take it apart and look.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use