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tinlizzy

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Everything posted by tinlizzy

  1. thanks for input, was lucky enough to find one locally, rare chance but all good to go from here on. Lee
  2. does anyone know of a parts supply for lower bed panels that mount to rear of fender and extend to the tail gate? These are on the low side or market bed only. High side has them built in. I found a passenger side but can't seem to locate a driver's side.
  3. picture of the brackets that Merle showed are different than the ones on a low side 48-49. Instead of 4 bolts along the bottom short side only have 2 across and 3 on vertical piece.
  4. sure would be nice to have access to the multicarb set ups
  5. I recently bought a 1950 dodge 2 door car with the idea of using the rear end in my 48 Pilot House. I was told it was a 355 rear end, well that turned out to be hot air. It is the same as my truck, 390 but it had a fluid drive so maybe at a later date I'd make the swap. The body is totally roached but the car only had 84000 on the odometer so I thought why not salvage some parts. It was a complete car but someone had pulled the plugs from the engine for who knows why and the it is bad. I have just about completely stripped off everything but the frame, gas tank and bumpers. I saved the bell housing, crank and any loose items but haven't got cam out yet, it looks brand new. Is there really any reason to keep this stuff? Is it worth anything or should I just junk it? The wife is fussing about what she is suppose to do with this stuff if something happens to me since I am past the age of accountability or almost at 73. I already have extra parts for my truck but it seems this stuff is just too good to just throw away if someone else can use it. Give me a shout on what you think.
  6. I found my low pressure cap at tractor supply, one used on an old type tractor. Fit perfectly too.
  7. when I put Rusty's set up on my 1/2 I had the spindles drilled and tapped at local shop. it was a tight fit but went together well. I had Three problems, one the brake lines used with the kit wouldn't fit into the housing of the caliper so trimmed the metal for a fit, second they weren't long enough to fit to the original frame holes so I used brake mounting clips I had from a 50 dodge coupe to mount closer to disc. The third item I didn't notice until I rolled the truck around some. The bolts that mounted everything to the bottom of the spindle were a tad too long and rubbing the back of the rotor. Removed and ground down enough for clearance. Haven't tried them yet as truck is still being assembled but set up looks good.
  8. doors are from later model than 48, on 48 angle goes all the way across also not mentioned here is the gas tank. It is different on a panel truck than on pickup but frame is exactly the same. I put together a pickup and panel parts from both only to find out the gas tank from the panel wouldn't fit the pickup, fill spout in different location.
  9. okay guys it is a 2 door car and yes I know this is a truck site but I bought the car for the rear end that was suppose to be a 355 but of course it wasn't. I toyed with the idea of replacing the 3 speed in the truck with the auto but i'm too old to fool with it. I was thinking of selling it but had no idea what it was worth and as you guys know a whole lot of stuff I just figured you'd know an approx amount. The car was pretty well complete but body is roached pretty bad and the wife wants it gone. Thought I might give a shot at selling off the parts if I had an idea of what things are worth. Thanks for the input.
  10. I have acquired a 1950 dodge 2 door and thinking about parting out. Body is pretty much roached but mechanics are still in decent shape. What kind of a price could I expect to get for an automatic tranny with 85,000 miles on the od. I realize for the most part it is what someone is willing to pay but trying to get an idea of a selling price. Anyone have any suggestions? thanks
  11. found a set of brake springs at Napa that fit the bill, reused inside tube and bolt worked out just fine.
  12. I have 1948 B1B and need the springs for mounting the one end of the tank to the bracket. Where can I get replacements and how tight should these springs be torqued down. Thanks for input.
  13. What are you using to replace the old 6 volt dash lights/holders. All of mine the wires are frayed badly. Would it be possible to just disassemble and use shrink tape to repair then get 12 volt bulbs? Thanks for input Lee
  14. I have a 1948 1/2 ton Pilothouse with a 48 Chrysler Spitfire engine mounted up to 3 on the floor tranny and stomp starter.
  15. I have a 1948 Pilothouse with a 48 Chrysler 6, 251 cu in. engine. I am attempting to rewire the truck as it was bits and pieces that had at one time been converted to 12 volts. The ignition switch is out of the truck and has 3 points to connect. Each of the 3 points has 2 each pieces of wires attached. One pin says coil, okay that's a no brainer but where does the other wire go to? The middle pin which is the longest has two wires, one wire with a fuse inline, the markings on the pin are GA on one side and RAD on the other side, where do these wires terminate? The 3rd pin has AM and the rest is chipped off. Assuming here that is AMP so one wire goes to the AMP or Volt meter but where does the second wire go. I still have the stomp starter hooked up. Also is a solenoid needed in this system, there was one included but no markings to know where or what to hook to it. There was a 3 resisters also included with the truck. One looks like the ones we used to use on chevy 6's coils, so I assume that would go inline with the coil but I don't know if I have a 6 volt or a 12 volt coil, any way to tell, there are no markings I can see? Any help on this would greatly be appreciated. thanks Lee
  16. has anyone tried to replace the felt on the flapper? Mine is only 1/2 way around
  17. I have one in my 48 and all that was necessary was to move radiator on front side of mount and use front holes in frame to mount engine.
  18. I wonder how the flex seal they advertise might work, says it dries to sheet of rubber, don't know about colors though.
  19. Thanks JB, I was able to get nut off pinion the hard way 4ft pipe wrench on housing braced so it wouldn't move then breaker bar and socket with 4 foot pipe on that, came off with a bang. So it is not just a swap of the pumpkin. You have to more or less disassemble to the rear end and if you pull axle shaft you might as well replace bearings and seals. Got it. I watched a utube video today on redoing truck rear brakes, but mine were different. Only the drums came off leaving the axle nut and housing; but once off I wondered why the drums had a spot of weld on them with matching one on the housing. I guess last person to do brakes didn't get the axle nut and housing off they just broke drum off? I may just leave the truck as is rather than go to that much work. My age is catching me and I would like to drive it before too much longer.
  20. Okay if I want to switch the differential from 410 to 390 how hard is it to get the differential out and back in. I've loosened the housing nuts on the 390 which is out of the car but can't budge the pinion nut. Does it have to come off before the center section will come loose. Never taken one apart before so don't won't to tear up anything. Is there something I am missing that still needs to be removed before the differential will come out? Thanks for the advice.
  21. I have one good 230 came from running car and one I just got with fluid drive but seen water in the intake, which is not good also have used 218 which will roll over but I am too far from you to be of any help and I don't have means to ship.
  22. thanks for the info. My truck has a 251 Chrysler with 3 speed on the floor. Looks like the easiest way to improve go power is get larger wheels and tires, currently has 15 inchers.
  23. I have a 48 Pilothouse with a 4.11 rear end. Just bought a 1950 dodge 2 door with fluid drive in hopes of finding a 3.55 pumpkin. I couldn't see it before I bought as the car body is pretty well roached with all 4 tires were down in the mud. So I bought it, drug it home and spent last 3 days cleaning and clearing to get a view at what the rear end ratio actually is. Of course the guy I bought it from swore it was a 3.55. Well turns out it is a 3.90. So my question is, is it worth changing out the gears from a 4.11 to a 3.90 as far as any difference on the road speeds? If it isn't worth changing I will just leave it alone so I can get truck back on the road before I go over the rainbow bridge. I do have a 87 dakota waiting in the wings if needed. I already had a 48 Chrysler 3.90 so I don't need 2. If someone needs one they can come and get it.
  24. parts alone are worth more that scrap price. I just paid 200 for one just for the rear end and have the rest of the car for parts.
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