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Sharps40

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Everything posted by Sharps40

  1. The ugly trunk seams from before are cleaned up, smoothed and properly seam sealed now. What I can see without moving parts around looks grand. The complete new rear roll pan is getting its final shaping and the lip to the trunk is looking much more "stock".
  2. Timing now. Blast shop is waiting. Paint booth will be freed up soon. Blast the last of the rust from the roof, get Bessy in the booth for good prime. Repairs to the trunk and roll pan and left rear quarter are looking much better now. And, all other rust/accident damage repairs look right as rain. Some parts are done and set aside for assembly at this point. They have pretty much had all the repair/blocking done on them. All the work is paid up through complete prime and ready for color. Next steps, july/august time frame are suspension and assembly and color. Last is power pack. For now....photos! Wrinkled mangled firewall is hammered straight. Unneeded holes for coil and foot starter are plugged. Both front quarters have all rust damage and holes repaired. The most significantly damaged, lr quarter. Shaping up much better on the rework.
  3. Turn signal indicators arrived. Very nice. Original stock and a good size. Glass lens, black arrow, green bulb, easy fit in a hole in the dash panel and even a tab to keep the arrow from rotating when you twist/snap the light socket into the housing. They'll be dark against the burl walnut except for the fine chrome rim. (Might have to go chrome rim gauge pack now....will look nice on the dark wood.) And then, the black arrow will be back lit by green when I signal a turn. Should be kinda vintage looking all the way.
  4. Typically good break pedal (firm) that is close to the floor = rear shoes too far from drum. Bring the rears to slight drag, with full contact of shoe to drum. These old lockheeds, out and down and out and down and exercise the pedal between each adjustment to center up the shoes until its making fullest contact. Ya may not be able to arc the shoes, I never did. Just got em out and down till I had best brake pedal and they wore in from the toe/heal to the centers.
  5. Located turn signal indicators for the new dash. New Old Stock Case IH indicators. I'll likely have to black them out, they look chrome but that's no issue, it'll make em disappear into the walnut burl.
  6. Mmo + atf (50/50) + mineral spirits (a few oz) mix well. Wonderful penetrating oil for stuck parts
  7. Yep. Dad and I ran twin B&B with split manifold dual exhaust on the 218 in the 37 D5 for years. Pull and pull and pull and pull. Dad won many up the mountain races against the straight and v8s of the time. Still ain't faster than an 8 but if you know where the straight away is near the top, ya pass and over the top first wins. And.....it was the first car I ever went over 100 mph in. Straight flat land on I495 around the Fairfax VA area back in the late 80s. Once they breath, they come alive.
  8. I always just took out the floor pan, straddled the trans and handed it to someone standing left or right side. They are not that heavy. If ya can't do it bending over, just pull the front seat bottom and sit in the seat pan or remove the seat pan and sit on the floor. Pull it out and up onto your lap and then hand it off.
  9. Getting excited. Less than a week till we visit. Dad is excited too. He said we should go to the shop twice while I'm visiting just to see what changed from one day to the next! I gotta start listing what to take and what to bring back. Take up: original running board brackets, reverse light assembly, etc. Bring back: 2 dash gauge clusters, spare windshield transmission, 2 new brake drums, up to 6 original brake drums, NOS/lightly used front leaf springs if removed, 4 steering knuckles if removed, 4 front hubs if removed. All four lower front shock/sway bar mounts if removable from the axles , the two front upper shock mounts if removed, drag link/steering box/steering column if removed, horn button, etc.
  10. Dad, This is the walnut burl I have selected to build the new gauges into and insert in the original chrome dash insert. (Front and back sides, thin slab for lamination to a sturdy backer). This section of the burl is 11.5" x 23.5" by .125" I'll pick up both sets of dash inserts (one in attic, one at shop) next week when I come up. Will wind up setting up one original dash insert with the walnut, glass and gauges + the Floating Power name plate I had made up. The other dash insert, likely the one from the Raleigh parts car will get sold. Should look nice, the burl walnut under glass and set back into the original chrome housing. I decided we'll be using a two gauge pack (each is 3 3/8" dia) with two green turn signal lamps and a blue high beam indicator. 120 mph self programming electronic speedo. Other gauge will be combo electric oil/temp/fuel/volts. Gauge packs come with all sending units. We may need a speedo pulse generator if the trans doesn't already have one on it. I'll get it all together and wired and grounds made up then ship it up to you in the next several weeks. See ya soon. Rich.
  11. Not trying to be a "Male Member"....but please consider replacing most of that rubber fuel line with flared hard line,using short rubber sections to provide for engine movement. Less rubber and you'll have less chance for an under hood fire later.
  12. In all of this clutter....did you ever get a known good oil pressure gauge, hook it up and check to see what the oil pressure reads? Could be your dash gauge. Or it could be your oil pump or main bearings or rod bearings or ..... Start simple and work the problem from a to z. You say it had a 20 year sit. Might well be worn/loose parts that held pressure for a bit due to dried on gunk and mess but are now clean and spraying oil all over the crankcase. But, 8 to 10 lbs of pressure at idle speed is in spec. We were always told 10 lbs per 1000 rpm to float the crank and cam in its bearings and keep on driving. Luck to ya.
  13. We yep but on my 36 Desoto trans, or the 37 dodge trans or 38 Plymouth trans. The collar is controlled forward and aft by a single coil spring that attaches one end to the collar through a tab on the collar and the other end to a clip held to the face of the trans by two of the lower bolts in the face. But then my dodge and Plymouth drive shafts used cup u joints and the Desoto factory drive shaft had normal cross joints....Musta be many ways to get er done!
  14. Throw out bearings are pressed on to the collar on these. Could be bad bearing or even the bearing race spinning on the collar (in which case you'll need to knurl the collar or replace it too....) but, it could also be if your Throw out bearing collar return spring (attaches collar to a clip on the face of the transmission) is broken and things are not lining up right/moving back and forth proper. Might also be the pressure plate but, they seem to last for ever.
  15. Thanks. Couldn't remember if it was .060 or not. .060 is max turn and .090 is too thin. I have a measuring gauge. Will pack it with the cutting tools for the trip.
  16. No, don't have a shop manual. Didn't search the forum either. Faster and easier to ask and some nice member with a manual can answer. Please, this ain't a for sale ad. Don't treat it as one and get it locked/deleted. Just lookin for a quick accurate response. Thanks in advance. What is the maximum serviceable diameter for the front/rear drums on the 1937 Dodge D5 sedans? Need to vet out whether the drums are worth the effort to salvage or not.
  17. If you are starting and old and likely dirty motor after a long sit, plan on regasketing it anyway. Especially the front and rear main seals. They will most likely leak anyway. After the restart, when you regasket, a minimal job is to clean out the gunk you can reach from the motor. Its not the detergent oil that ruins the old seals, they are dried out, tired and worn already.....in any event, you won't get all the gunk out unless you do a full teardown like for a rebuild. So, I'd not run a detergent oil either for start up or after a regasket. The stuff you can't clean out by hand will break loose and potentially cause issues. So, short of an overhaul that cleans all the parts and chasing out the oil gallies, etc, run non detergent oils and hands off the internal cleaners. If you decide to give it a proper overhaul/hot tank, etc...have at it and run whatever good oil you like.
  18. Dad, Just back from Ol Kantuk....TSA stole my toothpaste on the trip out....tube too big....don't seem to matter it was only a spit left in the tube.....I fixed em though. Bought an even bigger tube for the trip back and they missed it, the maglight and the cigarette lighter on the way back through. So much for consistency in inspection....as we are aware from years of experience in Munitions QA and Safety, 100% inspection only rarely uncovers more than 80% of deficiencies. But....to the car. Brass plate is for the new wood dash insert. I want to keep some flavor of the original Dodge so, even though the gauges will be new, we'll be using the original trim and gauge housing and glass and adding this plate somewhere above or just below the gauge set. As for the reverse light. As you can see, its done. When I visit next weekend we will install it on the rear bumper up in the attic. That way, it'll be done and won't get lost as we wait for the right time to deliver the final parts to the shop for installation. See ya soon! Rich.
  19. The other person I talked to with a story like this, called me on parts for his 32ish Dodge. Built it.....sold it 10 years ago. Went out last month, bought it back. On the trailer home, it was hit by a knuckle head....bounced it around in the trailer and smashed in the drivers side of the car between the fenders. I suspect he's got it home now and on the hunt for parts instead of getting to enjoy its return immediately.
  20. Seems to be a common theme in the business of owning and enjoying MOPAR....ya get one, ya loose it and then ya get the same one back.... Met another fella with a similar story to mine today. Contacted me about purchasing some windshield hinges. Seems he had a 36 Dodge Coupe for 40+ years. Got broke ($$$) somewhere along the line about 15 to 18 years back and sold the coupe. Got a hankering here of late but didn't make a move. His good Son, went out....... Located the Original Coupe. Bought it for his Dad for Christmass! Way to go Son!!!!!
  21. A simple bracket to slip over the bumper bracket and rest right in front of the rubber frame cover. Should look and work great. First bends in the steel. Cold bending is fine for this job, just trying to keep the bends even and not get things too far out of wack from side to side. A loop on top for the light to sit on and a loop around the double portion of the bumper bracket. Roughing it in on the bumper bracket. Adding some stainless steel hardware and checking the look. Just need to make a small spacer to fill the gap and keep the snugging up screw from pulling the bracket into a squished shape. It'll ride plenty tight on the bumper bracket and look good, I think, right there on the drivers side back end.
  22. Just ordered a 3/8" x 2.5" engraved brass saddle plate for the new dash insert. The engraving will be all caps, block lettering like the original speedometer....FLOATING POWER. MOPARS early marketing strategy for its motors that "hung" (sort of) from the front mount instead of pushing down and transmitting all the motor movement to the frame.
  23. Reverse light is rebuilt and grounded. Now to make a bumper bracket bracket. New contact, wire and spring. Added ground to the original weep hole....oddly enough there is another weep hole near the bezel screw so, this one can be used for ground (with a non rusting stainless screw and nut) and the lamp can be installed with the other weep hole/bezel screw at 6 oclock. New old stock reverse lens was glued in place last evening in the chromed brass bezel. Looks good on this old Guide B31 lamp. Works good too....
  24. Wew! Copper. Deadly. Hope that's a six letter typo.
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