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jtrepasso

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego, CA
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge deluxe sedan

Converted

  • Location
    San Diego
  • Interests
    working on classic cars

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  • Occupation
    surfboard glasser / shop manager

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  1. Thank you all for your responses. I unfortunately won't be able to attempt to start it until tomorrow. ( I got to busy with work). I didn't check the t-stat because it is new and I didn't think about testing it. I definitely should have. I will also spin the engine over without the plugs installed to check for oil pressure. Do I need to fill up the bypass oil canister with oil? I was thinking that once the engine starts, the crankcase oil level will become low due to the canister filling. Thanks again to all of you that have taken time out of your day to help me. Jameson
  2. I am finally almost ready to start my rebuilt flathead in my 1948 Dodge deluxe for the first time and I want to make sure that I am not missing anything. I have static timed the engine, filled the carburetor bowl with fuel, and pre-lubed the engine with a modified chemical sprayer. I still need to fill the cooling system and was wondering if I could use straight distilled water in case I have any leaks and because I plan on draining it as soon as I break in the cam. I was also wondering what the recommended camshaft break in procedure was. I believe I am supposed to check the timing as soon as I start the engine then bring the rpm up as soon as possible to around 2500 for about 20 minutes . Then re-torque the head bolts while the engine is still hot. Am I supposed to drain the break in oil after this ? Is there anything else that I am missing? Thank you in advance Jameson
  3. Page 72 of my shop manual says " Care must be exercised when installing a new distributor tube to see that the front end of the tube is flared in a manner similar to the original installation. "
  4. I have a D24 four door sedan that is in need of a new driver's side rear fender. I was wondering if there was a difference between a fender for a coupe and a fender for a sedan or if they are the same. Also will a DeSoto fender interchange. I know a Plymouth is different and so is the Chrysler fender I bought by mistake. I want to make sure I am buying the correct fender before I buy another incorrect one. Thanks in advance. Jameson
  5. To update my progress after flushing the oil and tuning up the engine it isn't smoking as nearly much. Unfortunately I removed the transmission to replace the gaskets and found six missing teeth on the counter shaft gear and rounded teeth on the first and reverse sliding gear. This explains the grinding going into first and reverse. Time to track down some gears or a replacement transmission.
  6. I flushed and changed the oil and decided to do a tune up while I was at it to track down the missfire. I replaced the plugs, made a new set of copper core wires and took a look at the cap and rotor. It turned out the po put the wrong cap on and the rotor was slightly hitting the cap. I have an ignitor so there are no points. My timing light was broken so I didn't check the timing before changing the cap and rotor. After replacing the cap and rotor it seemed to run a little better so I went and bought a new timing light. I checked the timing and it was advanced around 20 degrees. I set it to tdc and it runs great with no missfire. I don't understand how it was running decently with the timing that far advanced.
  7. Jeffsunzeri - It smokes on acceleration and I assume on deceleration also. It will smoke out of the draft tube when it is first started and the smoke seems to get worse after it warms up. So it looks like your third scenario. What do you suspect that means. I haven't changed the oil since I bought the car so I can't say if that made a difference.
  8. I did notice some steel scrubbing pad looking material in the draft tube I assumed the po put in there as a filter. I will remove that and clear the tube and see if it helps. Thanks for all of the quick responses.
  9. I tested the number one cylinder with the other plugs in and got a psi reading of 90. Then removed all of the plugs as my manual stated and It jumped up to 140 on the same cylinder. After that i tested all of the other cylinders with the plugs removedand got the readings that i reported. Should I re test the rest of the cylinders with the other plugs in? I couldn't figure out why the compression would jump 50 lbs so I re tested the number one cylinder with the other plugs in and I got 90 psi again. I was planning on a full rebuild anyway but I wanted to learn a little more about the state of the engine before I did that. I am not made of money an don't want to do a full rebuild on a decent engine.
  10. I am currently working on my 1948 dodge D24 sedan and I am trying to figure out why the engine is smoking before I decide to pull it for a complete rebuild. The motor smokes out of the exhaust and fill tube but always starts right up and runs good. I did a compression test with the plugs removed and got between 135 and 142 for all of the cylinders. I have researched this and I am wondering if my oil rings could be stuck? The only history that I know about the engine is that it is from a 1951-1952 dodge car. I put some pb blaster in the cylinders to see if it helps but other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  11. I replaced my rear axle bearings and when I put it back together it didn't have any endplay. Maybe I didn't press the bearings on quite far enough. I thought I did but that could be a possibility.
  12. Does anyone know where I can purchase extra shims for the rear wheel bearing adjustment?
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