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Everything posted by _shel_ny

  1. _shel_ny

    48 Dodge - cracked up! Help

    This may also be of interest. http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html
  2. _shel_ny

    48 Dodge - cracked up! Help

    1946-1954 Dodge should be a fit. AMS Obsolete (eBay formerly Mitchell Motor Parts) claims to have it in stock. Part # 1139099 (right hand thread studs) I have an over turned (out of specs)front on the shelf in the garage, but that is no help:( Oldmoparts claims to have many brake drums available. A phone call is required to check on that.
  3. _shel_ny

    Fluid drive

  4. _shel_ny

    49 or 50

    Would be Rubicon Recycling, Rome NY. They have only a few classics, but they try to keep them for a while if they can. very slim pickins on the MoPar front. They had a '50 Dodge 4dr for about 1-1/2 year, but gone now. It had a drive train swap before arrival. The classics here seem to be mostly 60's, 70's. Vince's u-pull in Marcy sometimes gets oldies in. They just go in the mix with everything else, and as far as I know go to the crusher on a time based schedule. Saw a '50 Chevy earlier this month, but did not venture over to it, as I was on a mission with limited time for sightseeing. I have been to U-Pull U-Save in East Sry., but did not pick any classics there.
  5. _shel_ny

    1950 DeSoto fuel pickup problem

    This is a long shot, and could be off base, but try putting some dry gas in there. Not sure why it would not happen all the time if it were the problem, but if there is water in the tank it will not pass through the fuel tank pickup filter. Water will block the passage of fuel until it is disturbed, and moved away from the filter.
  6. _shel_ny

    49 or 50

    Next to last trip to the modern u-pull there was a Plymouth coupe in the "classic" section. 40? 41? (see edit) There wasn't much left on it. I did not have a wire brush to de-rust to check the engine #. Looked on the pillar for a S/N, but being a 48/50/51 guy, I looked on the left pillar. Forgot that earlier may be on the right. No camera with me. (EDIT: turns out it was a P-15. Also it was not a coupe😣 I blame it on the heat, a senior moment, and being in a rush. As I approached it this time, the 1st thing that I spotted was there was an outside door lock on the driver's side. Looked again, and there were 4 doors. My thought of an earlier coupe was because I saw the remains of a spot for running boards. That was just aged out rockers. Not much left. Outside handles there. All inside handles gone.The dash was stripped except for a starter switch that looked like it had seen better days. I did not even push it to see if it stuck in. You could see the firewall through all the empty spaces in the dash.) The cord on my phone does not reach that far☹️
  7. _shel_ny

    Valve spring cup

    If rally's stash comes up dry, I have one about 70 miles East of you as the crow flies. Just looked at it on a shelf in the garage. PM an address if you don't get one. Can drop it in the mail. Probably there in 2 days. My mail processes through the plant in Syracuse.
  8. _shel_ny

    Fuel Sending Unit help

    Yogi's TAN-GML may work. 0-90 ohms Would need to be modified by cutting down the height, and possibly the float arm length to compensate for tank depth.
  9. _shel_ny

    Fuel Sending Unit help

    Len Dawson has one. He is very proud of it.
  10. _shel_ny

    Fuel Sending Unit help

    D24 up to 31022900(in 1948) 2 wire sending unit (1120 552) . (Info source Mopar 1954 and prior models Parts List after that 1 wire sending unit.(1244 508)
  11. _shel_ny

    Radio wiring

    D24 calls for a 14 amp inline fuse. I would expect the P15 to be the same, so a 10 amp fuse would not cause any wiring issues.
  12. _shel_ny

    Oil in Exhaust Manifold

    The valves are located right under the spark plug holes. I would be surprised if some MMO did not come out
  13. _shel_ny

    What to do with old parts aka MoPart

    A little WD, and some never-dull you could have put those parts back in service
  14. _shel_ny

    price differences wheel brake cilinder

    re-sleeving is a good idea no matter how much the vehicle is driven. If driven little it seems like a high per mile cost, but vehicles driven less, and/or sit for long periods will benefit from re-sleeving by not having the failure associated with pitting cylinders. Loss of your brakes due to failed cylinders just once at the wrong time will reveal the shortsightedness of thinking a re-sleeve is not practical.
  15. _shel_ny

    price differences wheel brake cilinder

    Theory is the quality. Problem is even the one you may think was not made in China may now actually come from there. Raybestos vs. Dorman
  16. _shel_ny

    where is this heading

    Then there are those people that leave "product reviews" like this, so some need all the help they can get: FloorMats So far so good. Waiting for product
  17. _shel_ny

    where is this heading

    Wife recently purchase a "take out" pizza from a national chain that now offers "replacement insurance" for a pizza damaged after leaving the store. The instructions for properly carrying the pizza are on the reverse side of the box I suppose that is so you do not drop a second one.
  18. _shel_ny

    Black Friday Alert

    So, do you think that I should tell my u-pull yard that they should/have to do a "price match" with yours I actually went to the u-pull yesterday. 1st Saturday of each month is "bucket day". $30 + tax for whatever "you can carry out" in a 5 gallon pail. There is a height limit of 36" (their counter height), and must fit in the bucket. Early on when they started this (prior to modifying the policy) one of the yard guys told me that someone carried out an import trans-axle in/on a bucket. I also saw a couple of guys headed out with 3-4 buckets with all the stainless trim that they could carry from the vehicles in the "classic car" section. One bucket day somebody got an engine into a wheelbarrow, and stuck a bucket near the oil pan. That did not pass muster, but it was a good try.
  19. _shel_ny

    Need help identifying an engine part

    Spring was a PO thing. When reinstalled it got the proper rod, and clips
  20. _shel_ny

    Need help identifying an engine part

    Be sure to select the correct choke if you purchase one. 2 different styles depending upon mounting location.
  21. _shel_ny

    Need help identifying an engine part

    If you are speaking of my clean up, it is actually 2 different vehicles (clue being choke arm direction, and mounting location with respect to the carb) Top pic my Meadowbrook. Lower pics my D-24
  22. _shel_ny

    Thermostat Question

    Not a fix, but a piece of cardboard covering part of the front of the radiator will get you some heat for your drive to work
  23. _shel_ny

    Need help identifying an engine part

    Be careful removing the nuts that hold the choke in place. It is very easy to twist the stud off. I cut/split mine so that I would not need to drill out broken studs. You can test the choke solenoid by running a power wire directly from the battery to the screw with the wire attached. You should hear it click , and see it move the arm with the rod attached each time you touch power to the screw. Be sure the car is in neutral, as the wire currently attached to the choke will apply power to the starter. May cause some movement. Best to unhook it at the starter end to eliminate that. You may need a new gasket under the choke. The bi-metallic bar should be isolated from the manifold for proper choke operation.
  24. _shel_ny

    '48 D-24 Generator

    Were it mine, I would connect the ground side of a jump pack to the body of the generator. Choose a terminal to connect the positive 6V. If the generator is in working order it will spin when you connect to the armature. When you determine which is the armature, and have it spinning well you can quickly move the + 6 v to the other terminal to test the field. Should be like applying the brakes if the field is good.

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