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Leary

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Dodge Business Coupe

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  • Location
    Australia
  • Interests
    MOPARS

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  1. Thread update, I went to the local wreckers and pulled a 1994 EF falcon wagon diff. Now, I don't know about the Plymouths, but they are not quite a 'bolt straight in' unit. Damn close, but relocating the spring perch outwards was required. I was hoping to do as Andy has mentioned but it could not be done. No big deal as this allowed me to sort the pinion angle. I also had to weld on some new sway bar mounts as the wagons didn't have a rear sway bar where as the sedans did. I'll add some photos soon. Leary
  2. Andy, Sorry, I meant to call you over the W/E but got busy with other life stuff... I'll try and give you a call during the week. The car never came with NSW Engineer certificates, and as its LHD it doesn't qualify under the usual Street Rod arrangements, but the SA ASRF TAC will no doubt be a wealth of info. I'll be making plenty of inquiries during the week. Plymouthy/Andy, Your comments confirm my thoughts on the track/tread terminology. Older speak from the other side of the globe sometimes misses the mark on a 34 YO Aussie :-). Cheers. Andy, Yep, the bloke who had the car before me had more than a few odd ideas, but the work he performed is usually sound. The silly bit is he took 2" off the diff just so he could run 295 wheels which then required 15mm hub spacers... Your measurements confirm my earlier investigations and is a great help. The 2" that has been taken off makes it a tad narrow and just enough to make it scrub under cornering. I'll very likely grab another diff and install that. While I'm going to the effort, I'll likely add the Ford OEM Watts linkage. The Old Man has an EA parts car that still has the diff. I'll likely steal that depending on its condition. Leary
  3. Hi Andy, I was in NSW, now in SA. hence the Rego debacle. While I initially thought the rear was the same as the EF, it seems the last bloke was a fan of running insanely large tires and had the rear end narrowed to accommodate. Going through old notes, i think the rear Face to Face is measurement is 1515mm (59.64") but it seems a bit narrow for the car. No sub frame, the front just has an adapter. I'll try and dig up pics.
  4. All, I'm currently in the process of getting my D24 re-registered. I don't know what you guys have heard about vehicle standards and registration here in Oz, but it varies state to state and modifications from the original baseline can be problematic on where you are and which official you speak to at the time... My D24 has already had a number of modifications performed by previous owners. Specifically I need to know the original hub to hub/track widths front and rear. Is anyone able to provide these dimensions? This is so i can compare to what I have now. I note a few books and online references have mentioned a 'wheel tread' of front: 57" and rear 60" for the D24. Is this dimension the same as track? For the Australian readers, mine has a '94 Ford Falcon 3.23 rear diff with disc brakes and front hubs and discs from i think a'71-'74 HQ Holden and Calipers from a '97-'00 VT Commodore. Leary
  5. Good question. For the moment, yes. I needed to install the short throw adapter anyway, so as a risk reduction and to get the Dodge back on the road sooner, I just made a simple offset shifter. Its not what i wanted as the gearbox sits higher than i had planned. I also wanted the car back on the road by 1st weekend in October. That has obviously long since past and as its peak cruisin' season here in Aus, the priority has shifted a bit. Leary
  6. I figured i'd post a bit of an update to the thread. I was hoping to have the car back on the road by now but, you know. Anyhoo, rather than mess about with a different cross member, or other mounting points, i fabricated some brackets that attach to the back of the gearbox and utilize the existing mounts and cross member. To allow the gearbox to have enough clearance i had to take a notch out of the existing cross member. This was closed in and reinforced with 5mm plate. (not shown) Everything lines up well with OEM angles maintained.
  7. Hmm, on mine the knob on the other side is for the dash light. Is it just for the interior light? Its a 2 position switch.
  8. Hey there, I'm rewiring the front half of my D24, and i cant work out what this switch was used for. Can you guys help? Cheers, Leary
  9. Sorry, by 3 points I meant 3 points along the length of the engine and trans. 1 mount at front of engine, 1 at the engine/trans interface and 1 at the rear of the gearbox. I have always been concerned by the forces with this combination, hence the thread. Does anyone have photos of an L6 / T5 combination without using an OEM bell housing installed to a passenger car (vice truck)? Leary
  10. That's the plan. All the benefits of a 'modern trans' with the ergonomics of column shift. If it works, which I'm confident it will, I'll consider making a few more parts for a kit. Can't imagine too many people would be interested though. Leary
  11. Grabbed a set of Gabriel G63609 from one of local (and probably going to become my new favorite) parts stores. Wasn't cheap, but at least I have them. Collapsed length is within 5mm of what I need which is good enough I guess. These items come with a sleeve at each end which is a bit small. I'll press these out leaving me with a 16mm ID rubber ferrule. I'm not going to say success, but i'll take it as a win. New shocks and 1" jeep swaybar should see it handling and braking like a different vehicle. Leary
  12. Hi Andy, Yes, I'll keep the original High front engine mount, but after much thought i'll be adding extra mounts from the adapter plate to the chassis. So, the engine and trans will be supported in 3 places. I'll try and mock up some photos of what i mean later today. Leary
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