Jump to content

mopar_earl

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    528

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by mopar_earl

  1. mopar_earl
    Guy on eBay sells rebuilt thermostatic valves for 80 bucks I believe. Word on the street is you can replace the rubber parts inside the valve. I've seen NOS ones too but the rubber insides will be bad. They run about 200 bucks. My valve is bypassed too due to it leaking. I plan to buy a rebuilt from eBay. Earl
  2. mopar_earl
    Is the 37000 missing numbers? I don't get any Google hits. Earl
  3. mopar_earl
    The Napa 6v coil I bought last June was metal and black. Earl
  4. mopar_earl
    If you order one from Andy's, please post about it and maybe a pic. Mine was trashed so I left it off and open. Earl
  5. mopar_earl
    Yes it's listed on their instructions and/or web site not to use solid core wires. Also never use a ballast on electronic ignition. Need good wiring with good tight clean connections. Electronics doesn't like low voltage. Could have a bad one. I'd get it replaced under warranty and give a try. Most ppl have no trouble with the Pertronixs. Remember, a Pertronix kit won't fix a worn out distributor. It won't fix a worn or broken vac advance or worn or broken mech advance. Earl
  6. mopar_earl
    Brake hose Earl
  7. mopar_earl
    Later cars like my 52 are just tubes, far from pretty lol Thinking about eliminating mine. I was always taught to keep plug wires away from metal and each other. They can and will arc to each other as well as ground. Especially if you install a higher voltage coil. Wires go bad and ppl don't seem to want to replace them. When I worked in the auto parts back in the day, it wasn't often ppl would buy plug wires when buying their tune-up parts. Earl
  8. mopar_earl
    I myself wouldn't waste time with kits. I bought new cylinders with lifetime warranty from the auto parts. Same with master cylinders. If the bores are bad or you hone them too much, kits won't fix them. Not sure why people use kits and/or pay to get bores sleeved. Brand new cylinders and masters can be had from auto parts stores with warranties. Just my opinion. I also recommend dual circuit master cylinders for safety. Earl
  9. mopar_earl
    Thanks, I thought there were only two. That means my sisson is correct and in the correct place. Only leaves wrong lenght rod or the bi-metal spring is not within calibration. I will measure the rod and post. Maybe compare the lenght to what others have with the same year car with same carb. Earl
  10. mopar_earl
    Anyone know how many different sisson chokes they had for mopars? I've seen two with the only noticeable difference being which side the arm is on. I will measure the rod but unless I know what its suppose to have, knowing the measurement wouldn't help. I found only patent numbers on the sisson. Earl
  11. mopar_earl
    Correct carb. Haven't measured the rod yet. Don't know if it's the correct sisson. Don't know if the bi-metal spring has been tampered with. The sisson on my car is in front of the carb with the arm on the driver's side facing towards the firewall. The choke is what sets the fast idle cam, not the throttle. Choke puts it in position and when you open the throttle the cam goes up and you're on fast idle. When the choke comes off it moves the fast idle cam and once you touch the throttle the cam drops out and your back on the idle stop. Earl
  12. mopar_earl
    I tried changing the adjustment. Than it doesn't close enough to activate the fast idle cam. Earl
  13. mopar_earl
    I adjusted it as per my manual. Yes I have a gasket under I bought on eBay made for the application. Leaves either the wrong sisson or my bi-metal spring has lost its calibration. Choke almost closed at 80*F seems like too much to me. I'd expect it to be 3/4 open. Earl
  14. mopar_earl
    You probably got a spring that is wound backwards like I did at the above link. Mine did the same thing and turned out the spring was coiled backwards. Mine came in the rebuild kit from Andy Bernbaum's. I called them and they sent me another spring, which was correct. Earl
  15. mopar_earl
    Ok, so for a 52 Dodge it should be in front of the carb, not rear? I just need to confirm that in front of the carb is correct for 52 Dodge. The service manual sucks badly. Earl
  16. mopar_earl
    Hello, Trying to make sure sisson choke is in the correct location. Mine is in front of the carb. Having issues with the choke being on too much and running rich until warmed up. At 78 degrees the choke is almost closed. So either my choke is incorrect or the bi-metal spring is out of calibration. Or it's in the wrong location. Someone told me they believe on a 52 Dodge that the choke should be behind the carb, not in front. Any pics? Thanks, Earl
  17. mopar_earl
    Sounds like good voltage to the coil to me. I'd test it this way. I'd remove the negative wire from coil and put your neg lead to the wire. Put your POS lead to POS battery post. Turn key on and read voltage. If car is still pos ground, keyed power will be the negative side of coil. Earl
  18. mopar_earl
    I used Pertronix brand from Summit. High quality wires. They were the universal 6 cylinder set. They are dual path and have a lifetime warranty. Very nice wires. Don't recall what I paid for them but they weren't expensive. My Napa ones were arching to ground and would shock ya good. Earl
  19. mopar_earl
    Dodge typically used Strombergs. Carters on the other divisions. Earl
  20. mopar_earl
    I'm pretty sure fluid drive cars (3spd with fluid coupling) had dashpots too. The semi autos had electric dashpot while the fluid drive was strictly mechanical. I have a parts manual, I can look up the exact carb your car should have. As long as you don't let off the throttle suddenly at low speeds, the dashpot isn't needed. Mines not working and I only had it stall once. Backing in the garage I left off the throttle too quickly and it stalled. I have a lip at my overhead door and it requires some power to roll up over it and than you're going too fast and need to hit the brake. I've learned to keep the car from stalling doing that until I replace the dashpot cup. Earl
  21. mopar_earl
    Mopar Direct on eBay is Andy Bernbaum's Earl
  22. mopar_earl
    Where you from? I'd take the 230 if you're not far away. Thanks, Earl
  23. mopar_earl
    No I haven't done the swap yet nor got the axle needed. You car should have 3.90's but best to check as the car could of been ordered with different gears or been changed. Earl
  24. mopar_earl
    What is your idle speed? My car discharges at idle as the generator is cutout. I have a semi auto trans so my idle speed is low. Low enough not to charge at idle. So my car always shows discharge on my amp gauge at idle. Amp meters have been known to cause dash fires. I plan to disconnect/bypass mine and add some fuses at some point. Earl
  25. mopar_earl

    Wirin'

    mopar_earl replied to 50 coupe's topic in P15-D24 Forum

    I also ran ground straps from engine to body and engine to frame. I despise voltage drops. Lol I also installed overkill gauge battery cables. She spins over like 12v. Also the dry cell battery has more capacity than the wet cell helps. Earl
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use