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mopar_earl

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Everything posted by mopar_earl

  1. Would love to hear more about the Mopar full flow filter setup. Maybe do a informational post on the kit with pics and how it's installed. Do the selling in the classifieds and PMs. Earl
  2. Seals are available. I see them on eBay all the time. I believe Bernbaum's has them or did. Mentioned the service option as an option for you as well as others. Do you have the special tools to replace the seal? It requires special tools that aren't easy to come by. I'm not sure why you would want to try and make a seal when you can buy them. But any seal, home made or factory won't do much good if you can't remove and install the new seal.I try to give as many options as I can to be helpful to the OP as well as others. Sorry you did not like that but it is a public forum. I even defended your second thread. Lol Earl
  3. You're good, don't be intimidated. Can never have too many posts. Can't search if you only have a couple threads. Mods will police so don't worry about the ppl that aren't mods.
  4. From my experience and what I've read the couplings are extreamly reliable. Mine doesn't leak at all. Wish I could say the same on my rear main seal. lol That's why most people say don't touch it, use it. If it's not leaking or it's a minor leak leave it be. Make sure it's topped off. Some recommend changing the fluid while others don't. Chrysler never intended for these couplings to be inuse more than a few years. So that's why they didn't have a drain and refill service. There are people that service them. I believe Bernbaum's and Roberts can send them out. But if I recall its 1500.00 exchange. I don't know of anyone using their service to report the outcome. Earl
  5. Don telling someone to lighten up. That had me laughing out loud. Earl
  6. Can't say this is correct for your application or not. http://m.ebay.com/itm/400676762221 Earl
  7. It might be the same switch they call an interrupt switch on the semi-auto trans. See them on eBay in the past. On the semi-autos it kills the ignition to allow it to downshift. They have uae a rubber boot that is on eBay. I can't say it's the same switch but sounds like it. Is it normally open or normally closed? Earl
  8. If not internal resisted I'd say it's bad. You did removed the wiring before testing the resistance, correct? Earl
  9. Would it happen to be the same switch used on the semi-autos trans? It thread in with two screws for the wires? Earl
  10. They aren't common and bring big money when they pop up. I have one but not ready to sell it yet until I install a modern rear axle. Once that is done I won't need the tool anymore. Earl
  11. I'd run it and see. Not difficult to pull later if it leaks. Earl
  12. I installed all new metal lines on my car as well. I used nicopp lines. They won't rust and cheaper and easier to work with than stainless steel. I converted my car to dual circuit master cylinder and front disc brakes. I also added a GM combination valve as well. Car brakes like any modern car now. I also replaced the fuel line from the tank to fuel pump with nicopp as well and added a modern inline fuel filter on the frame. Earl
  13. I'd replace the entire system with new. You can buy all the stuff from the auto parts brand new with warranties. I myself never waste time with kits. It's a single circuit system so you don't want to cut corners. I highly recommend dot 5 fluid and converting to dual circuit for safety. Make sure your parking brake is reliable as it's your only plan B if the single circuit system fails. Only takes one leak or a wheel cylinder blowing to have a total loss of brakes. Earl
  14. If you can pump the pedal up to a firm high pedal, it's an adjustment/travel issue, NOT air. If it stays spongy it's air. Earl
  15. A mighty vac works great for bleeding brakes as well as other uses. Earl
  16. Silicone and synthetic brakes fluids are two different fluids. Silicone is dot5 while you can get dot4 in conventional or synthetic. Maybe dot3 as well. I've used dot4 synthetic in many vehicles without issue. I have dot5 in my 52 without issue and a good firm high pedal. Had no issues bleeding the brakes and didn't use a power bleeder. Earl
  17. All goods. I would love PS on my car but would rather have AC. Lol I have manual dual circuit brakes with front disc which I'm fully happy with. If I was doing a modern engine swap I'd definitely do PS than. Id want to keep my original column and wheel. I steer from the spokes near the center while at crusie, so I wouldn't have an issue oversteering. That could be solved by installing a rack or gear that has sport valving or run a lower pressure pump to cut back some of the steering wheel leverage. I'm no expert on PS systems but I'm sure it can be done or has been. Especially for someone that has a physical impairment that needs PS. I love full original cars as well as modified. Each person has that choice with their car. Earl
  18. Not everyone keeps their car 6V. Especially those that are adding mods like power steering. I'd convert mine to 12v but don't want to spend the cash right now. If I put AC on the car, I'd convert. Then I could also run the mini Mopar HEI distributor electric cooling fans and all kinds of goodies lol Earl
  19. Real early semi auto trans. Maybe vacuum shift. Earl
  20. No! Everything is flared and seals that way. No sealer needed! Sealer and tape will only cause issues. Earl
  21. Disconnect the wire to the transmission solenoid and if it doesn't upshift there is an issue in the trans. The solenoid only gets power to hold the transmission in 1st or 3rd. If the solenoid has power all the time the trans won't upshift in either range. Does it shift up to 2nd in low range? Earl
  22. I recall reading several different opinions that the Flathead doesn't like sustained high rpms such as driving 65/70 with 3.90 gears or lower with no overdrive. I don't recall the recommended rpm. Under 3000 I believe they said. I'm guessing do to the long stroke. No you won't max out at 45 mph unless your semi-auto isn't upshifting. Earl
  23. Adjustment and/or travel issue. Air is spongy, pump up is adjustment/travel. Lots will tell you air but just isn't so. Make sure your master cylinder rod adjustment is correct and than your brake adjustments. Earl
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