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mopar_earl

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Everything posted by mopar_earl

  1. mopar_earl
    Adjust the master cylinder rod as per the manual. If the adjustment is off, the port could be partly covered and when everything heats up, the port can become blocked causing the issue. Earl
  2. mopar_earl
    My new water pump leaks out the cover plate bolts too. I pulled all but one that I can't get out due to location and used thread sealant. On my list to pull the pump and seal that last bolt. Pump was a new Napa pump. Apparently the bolts go into the cavity and they didn't seal the bolts. Earl
  3. mopar_earl
    Straight weight is hard to find or no longer made. I used 80w-90 in my rear diff. Believe my car called for straight 80 and straight 90 depending on the season. Good luck finding straight weight gear lube. I use off the shelf Valvoline conventional 80w-90. Earl
  4. mopar_earl

    Stalling

    mopar_earl replied to wdoland's topic in P15-D24 Forum

    Carb dashpot isn't working or miss adjusted. Earl
  5. mopar_earl
    Ponder this, a lot of cars left the factory without oil filters. Lot of manufactures made it an option. They only reason I can think of bypassing the filter during low pressure times is to keep the low pressure from dropping that little bit more with the filter in the loop. My best guess. Lol maybe the filter filters better with higher pressure? It's a lot smaller micron than a full flow filter, so it would take more pressure to push the oil through?? Earl
  6. mopar_earl
    Plugged fitting or line or no oil pressure. With the lid off, oil should flow out. The lines and fittings are small and can plug easily. Earl
  7. mopar_earl
    Doesn't matter if the relief valve blocks the supply or return on the bypass filter. The flow is stopped at low pressures to the filter. No oil will move if the supply or return is block by the relief valve. Can't flow oil in or out unless both passages are open. Earl
  8. mopar_earl
    The oil relief blocks off the bypass filter with low oil pressure, like at idle. Should be in your manual. There is an old Chrysler tech flim strip on YouTube that explains all this. Earl
  9. mopar_earl
    Probably off the generator for radio noise. Earl
  10. mopar_earl
    The byoass oil filter only gets oil when the pressure is 40 or above. So at hot idle it won't get flow. Polish the plunger with fine sandpaper or scotch brite pad. Earl
  11. mopar_earl
    My cables are 2/O size. Earl
  12. mopar_earl
    I had good ones made up for about 70 bucks. Not original looking but high quality. So 33 each doesn't sound bad for original stlye. I had both battery cables and the cable from solenoid to starter made. I went to a local farm Supply place. If your wanting original large gauge style cables, they won't be cheap. Earl
  13. mopar_earl
    I sure hope you didn't use copper lines!! Iff you did, you will have to pull them all off as that is highly dangerous and illegal. Copper won't hold up. Use nicopp lines, safe, legal, won't rust and easier to work with than stainless steel. I used a ECI dual master kit on my 52. Great kit, highly recommend it. Earl
  14. mopar_earl
    I agree with Don. Could of went to the clock or radio? Earl
  15. mopar_earl
    I had this problem. I installed a ground strap from the engine to the body and all my lights went dim to bright. Not sure if someone removed the body ground or if they didn't use them back than. Also the lights ground to the body, so you can have a poor ground from the light assembly to the body. Also check the connections on the brake light switch. Mine were corroded and causing dim brake lights. Switch is near the rear axle on the brake line at a tee. Earl
  16. mopar_earl
    M6 is a 4 speed with low and high range. Low is 1st and 2nd. High is 3rd and 4th. It automatically shifts up and down in each range. There is no overdrive. It's a 4 speed with direct 1:00 ratio in 4th gear. Earl
  17. mopar_earl
    Believe you have some wiring connection issues. Triple check all your wiring per the print in your manual. The solenoid is controlled by the governor. So either the wiring circuitry is wrong bypassing the governor or the governor isn't opening the points to open the circuit to the solenoid. Earl
  18. mopar_earl
    PM sent Earl
  19. mopar_earl
    I'd call them as their website is ment for trucks and the categories are confusing. Earl
  20. mopar_earl
    Yeppy, but fluid drive is what Dodge called the fluid coupling with a standard 3 SPD transmission. My 52 had two options, fluid drive or Gyro-matic/M6. If you got the standard option transmission, your emblems said fluid drive. If you got the semi-auto M6 option, your emblems said Gyro-matic. Not sure what Chrysler and Desoto did. I know they called their M6 transmissions Tip-toe, Desoto and Presto-matic, Chrysler. Maybe they they didn't offer a straight up fluid drive? You could also of had gyro-torque on some cars which is M6 with a torque converter instead of the fluid coupling. Earl
  21. mopar_earl
    Sweet! Is it fluid drive or Gyro-matic? Looks a lot like my 52 Coronet, which is Gyro-matic. Earl
  22. mopar_earl
    You can buy a Champion aluminum radiator 3 row core much much cheaper than $590.00. Unless you have to have an original looking radiator. Love the Champion radiator I put in my 52. My original radiator core was beyond repair, and they wanted about $500.00 to recore it. I spent $200.00 or so if I recall for the Champion. Earl
  23. mopar_earl
    They have old film strips for on you tube from 40's up on mopars. Covering everything. Earl
  24. mopar_earl
    I couldn't find a 4 psi cap with coolant recovery compatibility. I ended up with a 7 psi cap from Napa. The Napa cap number is 703-1460. The coolant reservoir Napa number is 730-4514. I used these with the Champion aluminum radiator. The cap would fit my original radiator. This is on a 1952 Dodge. Earl
  25. mopar_earl
    I added a coolant recovery tank to my 52. The rad cap needs to be coolant recovery tank compatible so it will draw the coolant back in as it cools down. Earl
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