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Everything posted by ebruns1

  1. Ok Fellas, Thanks for all the input and advice on part 1. Now here are some follow-up photos and additional guidance requested. For some reason we noticed there were two sets of brake bracket holes (we assume) drilled in the front wheel well frame. Perhaps one set were for Plym's and Dodge, the other set for Desoto/Chrysler? Any way, take a look at the photos. The new brake hose coming off from the caliper does not really want to route to the original forward location - it would have to snake between the shock and the big metal arm. The rearward two holes right by the upper shock mount bolt seem to be a better route. I can also use the shorter 15" hoses the kit recommends instead of the optional 17" hoses. The only issue I can foresee is if I ever need to install new shocks it looks like the bracket will be blocking the shock bolt. So if I ever have to install new shocks, I guess I'll need to unbolt the bracket and pull the lines away from the frame to the get at them. Did anyone else run across this problem and if so how did you resolve it? Another issue, we couldn't find a good way or spot to install the proportional valve to the rear drum brakes, so we settled for this cobbled together bracket set up. Will be a PIA to adjust, but hopefully once it is set up how we like it we shouldn't have to play with it again. My mechanic buddy is not a finesse kind of guy, but I'm lucky he's willing to help me out with my project. Plus he has a spare lift in his shop that it's been sitting on for the last 5 months so I can't complain! Jim
  2. ebruns1

    My Scarebird Install 1948 Dodge part II

    Mack, I would have preferred to mount the prop valve up through the floor somewhere that would be accessible from the driver seat so it could be tweaked while driving/testing. That photo is actually showing it mounted between the inner x member and the driver side frame ( it's a convertible, not sure if hard tops had the x-member). It will be very difficult to adjust but hopefully once dialed in will not require further attention... I have the shorter 15" brake hoses on order, those 17" Cadillac hoses are much too long and would need that bracket cut off as well. Frank - should I re-post my build photos under the last thread? I didn't realize it was such a big issue. I'd be happy to donate to the cause if someone would tell me where to contribute. I value all the constructive criticism. I've seen plenty of off-topic random posts on the forum...could they be deleted to save space?
  3. Hey Fellas, Here's some install photos of my progress. I have to say, I was very impressed with the overall quality of this kit. The brackets fit like a glove bolted right up to the spindles. The billet aluminum hubs fit well too. The only small issue we had with one of the hubs was that the rotor would not fit without some filing of the holes. A couple of the lug studs were too close to the center hub by maybe 1/32". We enlarged the holes on the rotor with a drill bit and pushed towards the center hub which gave us the clearance we needed to get the rotor mounted. The other hub was fine. We were initially concerned with the 1/2" space between the back of the hub and the spindle, but a quick e-mail to Mr. Scarebird said as long as the bearings were seated it was fine. I still have a question on where the instructions say "tighten outer nut to spec and install new cotter pin" when installing the new hub. We tightened the nut until the hub would no longer spin and then backed it off until we could insert the cotter pin. Is this ok? What is the "spec" for tightness? Any tighter and it will lock up. Another question since we forgot to take photos when we scrapped the rubber brake lines and hoses...how is it routed from the metal tab on the frame? Does it exit out of the top or out the bottom of the bracket? If anyone has a photo of their front brake hoses I'd love to see how they are set up. Thanks in advance for your help fellas! Jim T
  4. ebruns1

    Stromberg BXVD

    The guy that re-built mine (last month) had a buddy that brazed the shaft and also brazed one of the other small arms that had a hairline crack. Only charged me $30 for that. Where did you buy your re-built kit? Did you see my other post about the spring (#69) on the Stromberg carb that broke? If you get a replacement of that spring in your kit would you please let me know? Mine was broken at the pivot shaft and there was no replacement in my kit. My kit came from Canada...The Carburetor Doctor. Jim T
  5. matt167, Thanks for the heads up! I will drive and re-check them if I ever get my engine running! Seriously, good info and always good to go back and check after driving a little...especially brakes!
  6. I was priming and painting these rear drums before going back on the 48 Dodge. I only had white paint rustoleum. After painting I thought this might be a better reminder and easier for those of us with squinty eyes to try reading the little "L"s on the studs! What do you think?
  7. Hey Fellas, I had my carb re-built by a local guy with an ultrasonic cleaner. He did a great job and even had to braze a hairline crack on one of the arms and also one of the holes that ovaled out and had too much play. The only thing he could not fix was one of the springs was rusted and the arm was snapped off. That spring did not come in the re-build kit I ordered from Carb-Doctors. I'm not even sure what this does, but my car has fluid-drive and it pushed up on both arms simultaneously. Do I need it for the proper fuel feed during shift changes, or maybe there is some other way to keep the arms up with separate springs. Well, I guess before I go cobbling something together, does anyone know where I can get this replacement spring? Does anyone have one laying around from an old carb? It's that little loopy spring highlighted in the photo #69. Thanks, Jim T
  8. Wow, great to hear the history on red color drums for left side! Duh...after I put that writing on the hub thinking I came up with a great idea it hit me that you wouldn't see it with the wheel installed! Brain fart! But after reading your posts I think I will paint the center hub too and write "LEFT" on it there as well so it's viewable with the wheel on the car. Again, not so much for me, but the future custodian who will inherit this car. You think many Millenials have ever changed a tire, or even done an oil change? HAHA! Jim T
  9. Hey Fellas, A local tire guy has some decent vintage 7" wide mopar rims for sale. They have the 4 nubs for a hubcap and the locating pin hole so they are maybe 50's or 60's, I don't know when they phased out the hubcap nubs (anyone know offhand?). My original rims are shot (badly rusted) so I need replacements, and I will be getting modern radials at some point. Probably 215/75/15's since they are the closest to the original size bias ply (Is this true?). I have heard the 215/75's have fit fine for a few folks here on the forum. But my question is on the rim width itself. Would a 7" rim hit any of the steering components? Tie rods? Sway bar? I think the original rims were only 4.5" wide, so adding 2.5" might be problematic. I remember reading members recommended 5.5 to 6 rims for better fit to the radials. And I do not need the nubs anyway since I'll be using the 15" Dodge full wheel cover from the '49+. Thanks in advance for your input guys! Jim
  10. 55Fargo, Who knows? I'm still working on it and we can't get the engine to start yet. Maybe getting ahead of myself re-doing and upgrading the brakes but I'm trying to move forward on anything I can at this point. I figure it needs to be done anyway, and when/if we get the engine running maybe we can yard drive it and at least be able to stop! It seems like it's one step forward two steps back so far. The pace of progress is somewhat discouraging, but reading this forum and the good advice from you folks keeps me motivated... Jim T
  11. Thanks Doc! So that was the original tire size, 6.70x15? Since I want to go a little larger for better ride and handling maybe I better go with 215's instead of 225's.
  12. ebruns1

    11 inch drum brakes

    Sent you a PM. I just removed my front drums and swapped to discs, and I'm in PA also.
  13. Fellas, Here's an update on my 15" rims. The 7" wide rim fits perfectly AND it clears the calipers of the Scarebird disc brake kit. The 15" original rims did not clear as some have already mentioned here on the forum. Two of the rims I got were bare - no tire installed so I wire brushed and spray painted them to get ready for mounting. I'm using '49-'50 wheel covers so you will only see the outer 1/2" of the rim, that's why I'm not worried about the rattle can paint job...and as a bonus I can always easily touch them up if need be! So now the imminent looming decision is tire size. Has anyone else used 225/75/15's all the way around? I remember Greg G posted he used them on the rear but not the front. He used 205/75/15's for the front. What modern size actually corresponds to the factory original? What size would the '48 Dodge convertible have been equipped with from the factory? Thanks, Jim T
  14. Matt, We can't figure out what is holding the hub from sliding all the way back against the shoulder??? Shouldn't the bearing be riding on the uppermost flat part of the spindle? Or does it ride on the tapered part and the taper is holding it from going all the way back? We are scratching our heads and I'm waiting to get an answer to my e-mail from Mark at Scarebird. He has been very responsive. Also, regarding the Camaro rear seal...it was included in my kit. For some reason he also listed it in the parts you need to supply yourself, so it is listed twice! I knew I didn't buy one. Jim
  15. Yes I'm 100% sure it was the hub. One hub BOTH rotors fit perfectly, the other hub would fit neither rotor. Mark said it my have been possible that one or two studs were warped when they stamped the "R" on the ends of the studs. So I know it was a problem with that hub. In looking over the parts list again, I think I missed one of the seals that would probably fit in that gap. matt167, did you put a seal there? It's on the parts list but I forgot to buy it. I mis-read the "included" parts list and thought all the seals were included, but that's not the case. There is one seal you have to buy. Did you install it? I don't have the instructions in front of me, but it might have said a seal from a Camaro. Also, which brake hose did you go with? The 15" or 17" one. We measured and thought the 15" should be fine, but I'm not sure how it is routed. Any pics of yours would be appreciated! Jim T.
  16. The rims are held on with self centering tapered lug nuts, so I don't think a 32nd or 64th of an inch will make any difference. The rotors don't have anywhere near as much wiggle room.
  17. ebruns1

    Bright dash lights

    Wow great thread! I would suspect some of us who didn't even know about the switch would think the dash lights were shorted out or had broken bulbs if their switch was turned to "off". I'm going to try the brighter bulbs in my "50 Ford pickup to see if they make a difference. Now that I"m educated I don't feel like a "dim" bulb anymore! 😜
  18. ebruns1

    She came home today

    awesome! good luck with it!
  19. Fellas, My Scarebird front brake kit finally arrived! Yay. One of the items on the instructions is to remove the internal residual valve from the master cylinder. Well, mine looks nothing like the one he shows in the instructions and I'm not even sure it is the same thing or not. The MC is brand new, says "Made in USA" on the side so I'm pretty sure it is the right one. Take a look at the photo, I seem to have some sort of plate with about 8 holes in circumference around the outer diameter. This does not match the photo in the instructions which is probably generic but looks a lot different. I just don't want to pull it out unless I'm sure its the correct part. So, is that silver metal plate on the top of the spring some sort of residual? Of course, I will be replacing it with 2lb and 10lb external valves and a prop valve once I plumb the lines. Thanks for any help!
  20. Well, here I am again after another dumb mistake! When we pulled out the rotted brake and fuel lines under the car we forgot to take any photos since replacements were on order and expected delivery in a few days. Unfortunately, you know what happens. The Scarebird front disc kit was delayed 5 weeks and my buddy cracked both my rear drums trying to press out the stripped lug studs. Now that we're ready to install the front brake kit we can't remember how to route the brake lines to the front wheels. Same thing for the fuel supply line but I think we can figure that one out. Anyone have a photo or diagram showing how the front brake lines attach to the brackets and where/how it crosses over to the opposite side and where the Y fitting where they meet is located? Always take pictures! Lesson learned... It seems like its one step forward two steps back with everything I do!
  21. Thanks for the answers guys...I need to keep this project going! The Scarebird kit took quite a few weeks to arrive due to his moving from one state to another. I will say that he responded promptly to my e-mails every time I checked in for an update. Also the kit looks very well engineered for anyone contemplating the swap over. I'll confirm this after the install but so far looks good! Matt167 - glad I could help, let me know how you're install goes.
  22. Fellas, Anyone familiar with the '49 Dodge Meadowbrook flathead 6 engine? Would that bolt right up to my 1947 Fluid drive D-24 convertible? Same engine mounts and everything? I was thinking about swapping a runner from a buddy vs. a complete rebuild of my low compression (30 psi) engine that was in the car. It has the standard(?) tranny still attached so I could use his or the one still in my car. Did '49's come with Fluid Drive as an option or only 3 speeds? I'm not opposed to pulling the fluid drive since I have no way presently to evaluate if mine is still working ok or not, and he says his trans was working fine at the time he pulled it. His might even be fluid drive, I haven't looked at it yet...
  23. Knuckle, My reasoning for the swap: 1. Current engine looks like will need a full re-build, and from someone's thread on this forum a few days ago I'm looking at possibly $4000(?) or more plus at least 6-9 months time says my machine shop. 2. Donor engine is "ready to run" or so says this guy (I can't verify, but I will be doing a compression check and possibly try to bench run before I commit to it). Theoretically I could have it installed and running in as little as 2 months if everything goes smoothly. 3. Car is nice ...but FAR from show worthy. I'll just be happy to get it on the road again. Most floors rusted away and cobbled together with poorly done sheet steel riveted over top. I don't think numbers matching would add any value, but I would save the original in any case for future owner. JT
  24. ebruns1

    Optima 6v battery

    I paid about the same on Amazon 6 weeks ago.
  25. ebruns1

    48 Dodge - cracked up! Help

    Hey Fellas, You may have seen my initial thread where I mentioned I had some stripped out rear lug studs on the Dodge. Some were even confused by the fact that the Dodge's even HAD lug studs and not lug BOLTS like the Plyms, Desotos and Chryslers! The consensus was that the stripped lug studs can be pressed out and new ones pressed in. Well, it seems like it is harder than it looks! I took my drums to the auto and truck service garage where our Ford V-8 club meets and gave them to the 84 year old owner. He even assured me it would be no problem...until he cracked the drum! I don't know if he didn't support the stud with an old socket or if he just pressed them with the drum laying flat supported by the edge of the drum (what I suspect). Anyway, he cracked one of my drums and now it's useless. He's trying to find a replacement for me and he says he needs to know my model. I told him D-24, but he's confused I guess and doesn't know mopars... Here's the question - Are the 46-48 Dodge rear drums the same as any other years? What about the 49-55's or whatever series followed? And what about the rest of the MOPARS, did the Plyms, Desotos and Chryslers make the switch over to the lug studs after '49 or were they still using bolts? And were they the same size so I could use one of them if I can find one? If it makes any difference they were the 11" x 2" rear drums. Thanks for any help guys! PS - what about a more modern complete rear drum and backing plate swap out? Not looking to spend $500 on a disc brake swap, but any cheaper bolt on options that fit the rear spindle without major modifications as another option??? Any late 60's models that would bolt on with self-adjusting bendix style brakes? I'm swapping the fronts over to discs (IF my Scarebird kit ever ships!) so maybe I should swap out the rears. Unfortunately I just bought new rear brake shoes from VAPco for $89 and new replacement rear brake cylinders for another $65!

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