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About ebruns1

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Eastern PA
  • Interests
    classic trucks
  • My Project Cars
    1949 B-1-B - SOLD
    1940 International D-2 - SOLD
    1950 Ford F-1 Pickup truck - IT RUNS, sorta...
    1947 Chrysler Windsor Club Coupe - sitting
    1948 Dodge Convertible - work in progress


  • Location
    New Hope, PA 18938
  • Interests
    Old stuff

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  • Occupation

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  1. ebruns1

    Engine decode anyone?

    Fellas, Would someone please tell me what these numbers on the engine mean? I'm looking to possibly buy this for my D-24 if it fits. Is this a good idea? He says it may be "re-built" by father in law who passed so there's no verification of what it actually had done. But it's still probably better than mine! Thanks. D34-300779 50 11-7 1326306-4
  2. ebruns1

    Fulton visor? No thanks!

    Nice work both Andy and Wiggo! Can you post a better close up photo of how you made the rain gutter clamps please? This gives me hope of building my own one day. Of course, I need to get my '48 Dodge up and running, but I may copy your idea for my '50 Ford pickup which I just got re-wired and on the road. Jim T
  3. ebruns1

    Fulton visor? No thanks!

    That's awesome bud! And I love the double driver side mirrors haha! JT
  4. ebruns1

    D24 Shock Absorbers

    I believe I just installed the Monro-Matic 3100's on both front and rear of my D24 Convertible. I think it just came up on one of the auto stores web sites so that's what I ordered. They seemed to fit fine. I'll have to double check to see if the fronts are supposed to be different. Maybe they are and I just am remembering wrong...
  5. ebruns1

    Another step forward

    Just out of curiosity, what is the machine shop quoting you on the engine re-build? I'm curious to see what it's going to cost me when I'm ready. Ultimate cost will influence my decisions...
  6. ebruns1

    13oz coffee can vs Carter B&B

    Just don't try and run it on decaf!
  7. ebruns1

    My Scarebird Install 1948 Dodge part II

    Mack, I would have preferred to mount the prop valve up through the floor somewhere that would be accessible from the driver seat so it could be tweaked while driving/testing. That photo is actually showing it mounted between the inner x member and the driver side frame ( it's a convertible, not sure if hard tops had the x-member). It will be very difficult to adjust but hopefully once dialed in will not require further attention... I have the shorter 15" brake hoses on order, those 17" Cadillac hoses are much too long and would need that bracket cut off as well. Frank - should I re-post my build photos under the last thread? I didn't realize it was such a big issue. I'd be happy to donate to the cause if someone would tell me where to contribute. I value all the constructive criticism. I've seen plenty of off-topic random posts on the forum...could they be deleted to save space?
  8. Ok Fellas, Thanks for all the input and advice on part 1. Now here are some follow-up photos and additional guidance requested. For some reason we noticed there were two sets of brake bracket holes (we assume) drilled in the front wheel well frame. Perhaps one set were for Plym's and Dodge, the other set for Desoto/Chrysler? Any way, take a look at the photos. The new brake hose coming off from the caliper does not really want to route to the original forward location - it would have to snake between the shock and the big metal arm. The rearward two holes right by the upper shock mount bolt seem to be a better route. I can also use the shorter 15" hoses the kit recommends instead of the optional 17" hoses. The only issue I can foresee is if I ever need to install new shocks it looks like the bracket will be blocking the shock bolt. So if I ever have to install new shocks, I guess I'll need to unbolt the bracket and pull the lines away from the frame to the get at them. Did anyone else run across this problem and if so how did you resolve it? Another issue, we couldn't find a good way or spot to install the proportional valve to the rear drum brakes, so we settled for this cobbled together bracket set up. Will be a PIA to adjust, but hopefully once it is set up how we like it we shouldn't have to play with it again. My mechanic buddy is not a finesse kind of guy, but I'm lucky he's willing to help me out with my project. Plus he has a spare lift in his shop that it's been sitting on for the last 5 months so I can't complain! Jim
  9. ebruns1

    Stromberg BXVD

    The guy that re-built mine (last month) had a buddy that brazed the shaft and also brazed one of the other small arms that had a hairline crack. Only charged me $30 for that. Where did you buy your re-built kit? Did you see my other post about the spring (#69) on the Stromberg carb that broke? If you get a replacement of that spring in your kit would you please let me know? Mine was broken at the pivot shaft and there was no replacement in my kit. My kit came from Canada...The Carburetor Doctor. Jim T
  10. matt167, Thanks for the heads up! I will drive and re-check them if I ever get my engine running! Seriously, good info and always good to go back and check after driving a little...especially brakes!
  11. Hey Fellas, I had my carb re-built by a local guy with an ultrasonic cleaner. He did a great job and even had to braze a hairline crack on one of the arms and also one of the holes that ovaled out and had too much play. The only thing he could not fix was one of the springs was rusted and the arm was snapped off. That spring did not come in the re-build kit I ordered from Carb-Doctors. I'm not even sure what this does, but my car has fluid-drive and it pushed up on both arms simultaneously. Do I need it for the proper fuel feed during shift changes, or maybe there is some other way to keep the arms up with separate springs. Well, I guess before I go cobbling something together, does anyone know where I can get this replacement spring? Does anyone have one laying around from an old carb? It's that little loopy spring highlighted in the photo #69. Thanks, Jim T
  12. Wow, great to hear the history on red color drums for left side! Duh...after I put that writing on the hub thinking I came up with a great idea it hit me that you wouldn't see it with the wheel installed! Brain fart! But after reading your posts I think I will paint the center hub too and write "LEFT" on it there as well so it's viewable with the wheel on the car. Again, not so much for me, but the future custodian who will inherit this car. You think many Millenials have ever changed a tire, or even done an oil change? HAHA! Jim T
  13. I was priming and painting these rear drums before going back on the 48 Dodge. I only had white paint rustoleum. After painting I thought this might be a better reminder and easier for those of us with squinty eyes to try reading the little "L"s on the studs! What do you think?
  14. 55Fargo, Who knows? I'm still working on it and we can't get the engine to start yet. Maybe getting ahead of myself re-doing and upgrading the brakes but I'm trying to move forward on anything I can at this point. I figure it needs to be done anyway, and when/if we get the engine running maybe we can yard drive it and at least be able to stop! It seems like it's one step forward two steps back so far. The pace of progress is somewhat discouraging, but reading this forum and the good advice from you folks keeps me motivated... Jim T
  15. Thanks Doc! So that was the original tire size, 6.70x15? Since I want to go a little larger for better ride and handling maybe I better go with 215's instead of 225's.

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