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ebruns1

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About ebruns1

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Hope, PA 18938
  • Interests
    classic autos, golf, soccer, bourbon, women (not in that order!)
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Chrysler Windsor Coupe
    1948 Dodge Convertible

Converted

  • Location
    New Hope, PA 18938
  • Interests
    Old stuff

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Architect

Recent Profile Visitors

802 profile views
  1. I need them as well and they are very hard to find. Yes the brackets are on eBay for $100 ea. but that's without the arm and the visor! Unless you are building a show car you may want to find a close Ford or Chevy substitute for 1/4 the price. I'm hoping one of the more commonly available cars might have something close enough to use on mine. Good luck and let us know what you find out. Jim
  2. Hello 46-48 Owners, A few of you fellas suggested I should remove my door lock mechanisms to clean, lube and check/change/adjust springs for the "star" catch. While this sounds like a wonderful idea, from what I can gather in researching this forum removing the old lock cylinders is a monumental task. I have no idea what the PO may have installed or modified but when I popped off the spring guards on the retainer spring all I can see is what looks like a hollow tube, no phillips head screw (see photo). Any thoughts on what to do next? Does this hold the shaft of the lock cylinder in place? Do I assume correctly that I must remove the lock cylinder and shaft in order to pull out the latch mechanism to service it? It looks like someone may have already drilled a hole in mine. Does it pull out, or should I try using a punch to push it in? Any suggestions would be helpful. The exploded parts diagram someone posted on the lock cylinder threads does not ever show the locking screw or how it works.
  3. There are 3-4 of the same model for sale on Craigslist near me. In better shape and running asking is $3500. Not running and about same condition as yours asking $1500. If family history is important to you I would keep it and wait until you have the time to put towards it. If you have no inclination mechanically and would rather buy a driver, then by all means get what you can (my guess is $1000) and put that towards a running car you only have to maintain. My guess is prices on running 4-door sedans are only going to drop as the old timers pass away and their kids have little to no interest in these old cars. It's a good opportunity to pick one up cheap.
  4. Success! Got the faceplate (head unit) detached. Had to cut way more wiring than I thought! Probably 15 wires or so, but I guess that makes sense since the head unit controls all the functions. Now all I have to do is figure out same type of strap or mounting bracket for the top of the radio and I will have all kinds of room for my 12v wiper motor conversion and modern Bluetooth type radio controller. Hope this helps out the next guy looking to do this. If anyone needs parts from the back end send me a PM. Not sure if anything is good in there. Otherwise I'll hold onto it until Everything goes back in and then I will scrap it.
  5. Thanks Guys! Since I'm pulling the dash it had to come out anyway. Frank, great idea with the light bulb I will do that! I thought I would leave the "guts" out because I will be installing or making a 12v wiper conversion and from what I've read here on the forum I may need the room back there. Since it's not working anyway why not just leave the faceplate and buttons on there for show and open up plenty of space for another radio and the new wiper motor?
  6. Fellas, Moving on to next step now that the steering wheel is off and attacking the dashboard! I will not be using the original radio but plan on installing some type of hidden Bluetooth device to link to my phone or an iPod-style device. I don't want to use a radio delete plate as I much prefer the look of the dash with the original radio and clock. My radio faceplate is in excellent condition. Also, I want to clean up the underside of the dash and make some room in case I want to install A/C and for better access to future wiring etc. I just pulled the radio and have it on my bench. I unscrewed the side panel and the head unit screws. The head panel is now loose and seems to be held in place with some wiring that is soldered together. I want to separate the head unit so I can re-install it with all the buttons and the dial but not have the back "guts" attached. I'm sure many of you have done this before. So here's the question: 1. Will clipping the wires allow me to separate the head control unit from the back? 2. Did you make a custom bracket once you got them apart to re-install it? Any photos? I will have the dash out for re-painting so it will be easy to get to the back of the dash. Thanks!
  7. Sam, that's a genius idea bud! I went right out and tried it. I tightened down the puller and then there was a loud "pop" and the wheel came right off with no effort! One thing to note for the next guy trying this. Do not leave the castle nut on the threads...or at least unscrew it way more than I did (I kept it flush with the top of the tube). If you don't back it out a bit more then that there is hardly any wiggle room for the puller to pop it off. Also note, there is an indexing slot in the threads so you don't have to worry about losing your wheel alignment if it is already set up properly. It will only go on and off in the exact same position as you had it. That's bad news if you thought you could center your steering wheel by removing and installing it at 10 or 15 degrees one way or the other to correct any misalignment of the wheels.
  8. Success! The center grill and all the "whisker" trim was held in place not by bolts, but by threaded studs with nuts and washers. Almost all of them came out easily with 3 or 4 exceptions. Of course, the worst was the inside grill fastener right up against the right side inner sheet metal pan. I had to work on it with the Dremel and a cut off wheel for 15 minutes and grind it all away. What a pain! Couldn't get a Sawzall to stay on the rusted blob and couldn't fit my big grinder in there either. Man, that thing is heavy! Next up are the bumpers. Got them sprayed with WD and soaking. Got a big 2' breaker bar so shouldn't be any trouble...did I just jinx myself???
  9. So I borrowed a wheel puller from my mechanic buddy...was missing everything except the center rod and main body. I had two 1/4" coarse thread bolts to attach to the wheel hub. I left the castle nut on the steering shaft so I don't mess up the threads. The center was open so I needed something for the center plunger to push against...nothing in the workshop was either small enough to fit or had a hole in the middle (washers). Hmmm, I have some quarters in my pocket and they are the perfect size to cover the hole. Well, I just screwed myself out of 2 bits! I guess quarters aren't as strong as I thought! Haha Any recommendations on what I can use to cap that opening that will stand up to the pressure?
  10. OK, got the steering wheel center part off. Here's a good photo for the next guy. It just pry's off easily with a plastic trim tool. Photo shows the spring clip that holds it on. Look at my other photo for some yankee ingenuity...matchbook covers as insulation for the horn contacts! Haha. Two fell out and under the car but one was still there when I took this photo. The horn must have been going off and this was the quick way to fix it! I borrowed a wheel puller from my mechanic friend. He only had the basic tool so I have to buy some bolts that match the wheel threads. Anyone know off-had what they are? Looks like a fine thread bolt in any case. I'll try and see if I can get the wheel off. MarcDeSoto, yes I'm going to try to get the body off...cant see how to do that without at least pulling the wheel and possibly the column. What would you suggest? It seems that without the column in the way I would not have to lift it up that much. With the column it would have to go almost double the height. Am I missing something? As long as I can clear the rear frame kick-up then I don't need to go any higher without the column correct?
  11. OK Fellas, Again, searching this site for 20 minutes and can't find a reference...how do I get the center button off the steering wheel to access the retaining nut? I don't want to break anything and I didn't want to start prying on it. I don't see any outside fasteners so I would think it either screws off, or pops off. Any hints? Once I get this part removed I'm sure I can figure out the rest. The posts I did find mentioned screws on the rear of the wheel holding on the horn ring (but that was not specific for Chrysler). Thanks again for any insight! PS - this photo is not my car...I wish it was!
  12. Don, At an assembly plant with unlimited height to lift the body on a gantry conveyor assembly line I guess they might have used one of the methods you mention. Of course, in my garage and with an engine hoist it is going to be difficult enough to lift it high enough over the engine never mind an installed steering column! It seems my best option is to disconnect the pittman arm (easy) disassemble the shift linkage (moderate) and then unbolt the steering box from the frame (PIA)! I guess now I need to start searching how to remove the Chrysler steering wheel and hope I can borrow a puller from one of my buddies... Jim T
  13. Thanks fellas, looks like a lot of work! Would it be easier if I left the shaft and outer jacket in one piece and unbolted the entire steering box from below? My objective is only to remove the sheet metal from the frame and I assumed I would have to pull the steering column out. Is there any other way or am I not thinking correctly? (Hmmmm, maybe I should rephrase that...I know I'm not in my right mind trying to tackle this project haha!) Jim
  14. Tried searching but came up empty. If I losen up the bolt at the bottom of the column where it goes into the steering box, would it allow me to pull the column off and up through the firewall? Of course I know I would have to unbolt the shift linkage as well but I'm open to tips on that too! Apologies if there is a thread out there, none of my key words worked like "remove column" or "remove steering" Mostly stuff about steering wheel removal. Thanks!
  15. Would this work for my 1948 Chrysler? It's got that big chrome semi-circle in the center of the wheel. Thanks!
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