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About ebruns1

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Eastern PA
  • Interests
    classic trucks
  • My Project Cars
    1949 B-1-B original rust bucket - SOLD
    1940 International D-2 - SOLD
    1950 Ford F-1 Pickup truck - RUNS, sorta
    1947 Chrysler Windsor Club Coupe - sitting
    1948 Dodge Convertible - work in progress


  • Location
    New Hope, PA 18938
  • Interests
    Old stuff

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  • Occupation

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197 profile views
  1. 1946 - 1948 Mopar bumper interchange?

    Hey John, I'm in PA. I'd be interested in taking a look at your bumpers when you get them! Thanks.
  2. Fellas, Here's my dilemma. My 48 Dodge bumpers have termite holes all the way through where the guards were fastened. Some big 2" holes too. Would take extensive welding work (I don't have those skills) to do it on my own. I bought a set of decent (surface rust only) Plym bumpers with guards and brackets for only $100. I figured I can either use the Plym brackets or the original Dodge brackets to install them. I also have a line on a cheap Desoto rear bumper that might fit better, and it would be cool to have a mix of mopar parts too! (Since the Desoto bumper says "Desoto" on it, not fluid drive). I think the bumpers would swap from one to another if you have the correct brackets for the bumper so the holes line up. I assume the frame mounting holes are all the same across the line? Anyone know for sure? I'll be attempting this once the weather gets better but it would be nice to hear if it worked for anyone else. PS - Why are the Dodge bumpers made in 3 separate sections while the Plym, Desoto, and Chry bumpers were all one piece? I'd like to put Desoto or Chry front bumpers on my Dodge. I like the look of how they wrap around the front clip better. If the original brackets from the bumper was used would that work? Jim
  3. 1947 Plymouth Woody - posting for a friend

    Great info on the axle ratios fellas, I will pass it along. Thank you! He had not heard of this forum so keep a lookout for a new member soon. He has a barn full of old cars and trucks he's collected over 35 yrs. He had been trying to sell this 47 Ply Coupe for $700 on Craigslist for a year now, and only recently decided to part it out. He's now made a bit over $700 as no one would try to restore this car, almost all the sheet metal was rotted except for the firewall and the trunk floors. Bumper swap - starting a new thread... Jim
  4. found source for bolt in dual master cylinder

    WOW...that looks like a great solution for my 48 Dodge! I called the technical support for ECI and they said it would work with both 3 speed and fluid drive. You get an additional bracket if you have the fluid drive to make it fit. I plan on ordering one for my car when the time comes... Thanks for posting casper50!
  5. Fellas, I just returned from purchasing a few parts from a fellow I met at a few local car shows. He has a 47 Plymouth woody wagon fully restored, and a 48 Plymouth Coupe parts car (I bought the front and rear bumpers for my 48 Dodge...but that's a future thread). He thought he read somewhere that the woody wagon had a 4:11 rear, which makes sense as he says it tops out at about 55. Does anyone know offhand what the coupe rear ratio was? He is now thinking about swapping rears if it was a more friendly gearing 3:55 etc. or anything better than the 4:11. The coupe was fairly rusted through sheet metal-wise, but the trim and the chrome was surprisingly decent! I also bought a trunk handle fixture (no handle) that looked like it just come from a chrome shop. He is also going to throw in a fuel filler tube too as mine is pretty well rusted. The bumpers had surface rust only and no deep pits, so they will look ok if I wind up painting them (can't afford to do a re-chrome). Jim
  6. light bulb sockets

    Wow, those are beautiful! For $26 a pop they better be... His 6v LED brake light looks great too, but again for $28 it's not cheap, and it says "requires" his $17 dollar resistor in order to work. Ouch. But, you get what you pay for I guess! Good solution if you want to retrofit bright LED lights. Anybody try the Technostalgia brake light assemblies for the 46-48 Plymouth? I'm hoping they come out with the same for the Dodges. http://cool-leds.com/led-taillights-plymouth.htm
  7. Hey Folks, Getting ready to install my new tank and sending unit that recently got delivered. Haven't opened the seal on the tank yet, but wondering which way I should orient the arm on the sending unit? Should I have it pointing forwards, backwards or to the side? Or does it not make any difference? I"m assuming there's baffles in there to stop the fuel from sloshing around anyway. What do you recommend? They are repros from Vintage American Parts BTW. Thanks!
  8. aluminum radiator sacrificial anode

    I bought a new triple core aluminum radiator for my 1950 Ford F1. $9 worth of insurance on a $200 radiator...why wouldn't you?
  9. Speaking of brakes...

    Keithb7, If that is all the specialty tool does, from looking at the photo I could make something similar in a half hour or less! Thank for sharing your photo...so I assume you use the feeler pin to set the brake shoes so they are concentric around the hub. Is that all there is to it? Now I'm much less intimidated about setting up the drums if I decide to go that way. I'm still going to look into the disc swap idea. Can I still use an original single master to run front and rear discs with a proportioning valve? Or do I have to go through all the custom mods to convert to a dual master? That part I'm not confident I can do myself...
  10. This just popped up on Craigslist today. Interesting idea...just take a 4 door sedan and cut the trunk out and add mahogany. Wierd looking...but I'll give the builder credit for trying! Oh, and he's asking 20K for it!
  11. Speaking of brakes...

    Fellas, I've pulled all the old lines, hoses, innards etc. basically everything related to completely replace the rotted out old brakes. I've heard mention of a special tool to install or adjust the new shoes. Is there any work around for this or do I have to have it? The drums were good with plenty of meat on them so I had my buddy from the Ford V8 club turn them at his towing and truck service station. I have yet to order the rest of the components but I'm staying all stock as I don't have the skills to upgrade to discs and swap rear ends. Seems like a stock set up works fine if it's adjusted properly and drive conservatively. So, back to the question, what does this specailty tool actually do for you? One of my friends suggested putting sandpaper inside the drums and sanding the curve of the brake shoes to match so that there is 100% contact between the shoe and drum for better stopping. Does this work for a 48 Dodge set up? Do I still need the special tool? Thanks!
  12. Door Hanle Conundrum

    ...more than I can "handle". Haha, I just got it!
  13. Casper50, You've got a deal, those will work perfectly! I'll PM you my address info. Thank you sir! Jim T
  14. Fellas, All my coupe tail light chrome is deeply pitted all over...looks like 50 grit sandpaper! The inside of the pot metal castings are stamped "COUPE". In looking for decent driver replacements on Ebay I see many of the SEDAN brake lights available, but only a few coupe. In scrutinizing photos I see little, if any difference in the castings. Has anyone installed sedan tail lights or center brake lights on their coupe? Would the curvature of the sheet metal be the same, or close enough to make the swap without large gaps where they meet? The cost to re-chrome mine is astronomical and I'm just looking for some decent shiny ones with no moon craters! Most on Ebay are sedan, and should be easy to find if they work. Thanks!
  15. 1953 Chrysler Brakes Rebuild Thread

    Keith, All brake lines were pulled and trashed. Someone even installed a copper tube as a replacement somewhere along the line! Very dangerous...could have split at any time and might have led to disaster! As this is a non-running new project for me I am replacing the entire brake system from top to bottom. The car sat for at least 20 yrs. according to the previous owner who sold it to me so everything will need to be gone through completely. My buddy is doing all the brake work so I don't know exactly how the lines are routed, only that mine were all trashed and will be 100% new when he is done. PS - the car is fully assembled but I don't think the radiator and engine will impede replacement, but he has a lift so access could be easier than working from a creeper.