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About ebruns1

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Eastern PA
  • Interests
    classic trucks
  • My Project Cars
    1949 B-1-B - SOLD
    1940 International D-2 - SOLD
    1950 Ford F-1 Pickup truck - IT RUNS, sorta...
    1947 Chrysler Windsor Club Coupe - sitting
    1948 Dodge Convertible - work in progress


  • Location
    New Hope, PA 18938
  • Interests
    Old stuff

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  • Occupation

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304 profile views
  1. Well, here I am again after another dumb mistake! When we pulled out the rotted brake and fuel lines under the car we forgot to take any photos since replacements were on order and expected delivery in a few days. Unfortunately, you know what happens. The Scarebird front disc kit was delayed 5 weeks and my buddy cracked both my rear drums trying to press out the stripped lug studs. Now that we're ready to install the front brake kit we can't remember how to route the brake lines to the front wheels. Same thing for the fuel supply line but I think we can figure that one out. Anyone have a photo or diagram showing how the front brake lines attach to the brackets and where/how it crosses over to the opposite side and where the Y fitting where they meet is located? Always take pictures! Lesson learned... It seems like its one step forward two steps back with everything I do!
  2. Thanks for the answers guys...I need to keep this project going! The Scarebird kit took quite a few weeks to arrive due to his moving from one state to another. I will say that he responded promptly to my e-mails every time I checked in for an update. Also the kit looks very well engineered for anyone contemplating the swap over. I'll confirm this after the install but so far looks good! Matt167 - glad I could help, let me know how you're install goes.
  3. Fellas, My Scarebird front brake kit finally arrived! Yay. One of the items on the instructions is to remove the internal residual valve from the master cylinder. Well, mine looks nothing like the one he shows in the instructions and I'm not even sure it is the same thing or not. The MC is brand new, says "Made in USA" on the side so I'm pretty sure it is the right one. Take a look at the photo, I seem to have some sort of plate with about 8 holes in circumference around the outer diameter. This does not match the photo in the instructions which is probably generic but looks a lot different. I just don't want to pull it out unless I'm sure its the correct part. So, is that silver metal plate on the top of the spring some sort of residual? Of course, I will be replacing it with 2lb and 10lb external valves and a prop valve once I plumb the lines. Thanks for any help!
  4. Knuckle, My reasoning for the swap: 1. Current engine looks like will need a full re-build, and from someone's thread on this forum a few days ago I'm looking at possibly $4000(?) or more plus at least 6-9 months time says my machine shop. 2. Donor engine is "ready to run" or so says this guy (I can't verify, but I will be doing a compression check and possibly try to bench run before I commit to it). Theoretically I could have it installed and running in as little as 2 months if everything goes smoothly. 3. Car is nice ...but FAR from show worthy. I'll just be happy to get it on the road again. Most floors rusted away and cobbled together with poorly done sheet steel riveted over top. I don't think numbers matching would add any value, but I would save the original in any case for future owner. JT
  5. Fellas, Anyone familiar with the '49 Dodge Meadowbrook flathead 6 engine? Would that bolt right up to my 1947 Fluid drive D-24 convertible? Same engine mounts and everything? I was thinking about swapping a runner from a buddy vs. a complete rebuild of my low compression (30 psi) engine that was in the car. It has the standard(?) tranny still attached so I could use his or the one still in my car. Did '49's come with Fluid Drive as an option or only 3 speeds? I'm not opposed to pulling the fluid drive since I have no way presently to evaluate if mine is still working ok or not, and he says his trans was working fine at the time he pulled it. His might even be fluid drive, I haven't looked at it yet...
  6. ebruns1

    Optima 6v battery

    I paid about the same on Amazon 6 weeks ago.
  7. ebruns1

    48 Dodge - cracked up! Help

    Hey Fellas, You may have seen my initial thread where I mentioned I had some stripped out rear lug studs on the Dodge. Some were even confused by the fact that the Dodge's even HAD lug studs and not lug BOLTS like the Plyms, Desotos and Chryslers! The consensus was that the stripped lug studs can be pressed out and new ones pressed in. Well, it seems like it is harder than it looks! I took my drums to the auto and truck service garage where our Ford V-8 club meets and gave them to the 84 year old owner. He even assured me it would be no problem...until he cracked the drum! I don't know if he didn't support the stud with an old socket or if he just pressed them with the drum laying flat supported by the edge of the drum (what I suspect). Anyway, he cracked one of my drums and now it's useless. He's trying to find a replacement for me and he says he needs to know my model. I told him D-24, but he's confused I guess and doesn't know mopars... Here's the question - Are the 46-48 Dodge rear drums the same as any other years? What about the 49-55's or whatever series followed? And what about the rest of the MOPARS, did the Plyms, Desotos and Chryslers make the switch over to the lug studs after '49 or were they still using bolts? And were they the same size so I could use one of them if I can find one? If it makes any difference they were the 11" x 2" rear drums. Thanks for any help guys! PS - what about a more modern complete rear drum and backing plate swap out? Not looking to spend $500 on a disc brake swap, but any cheaper bolt on options that fit the rear spindle without major modifications as another option??? Any late 60's models that would bolt on with self-adjusting bendix style brakes? I'm swapping the fronts over to discs (IF my Scarebird kit ever ships!) so maybe I should swap out the rears. Unfortunately I just bought new rear brake shoes from VAPco for $89 and new replacement rear brake cylinders for another $65!
  8. Also, in my 46-47-48 Body and Sheet Metal parts catalog under door handle part number it states "Sedan and Coupe, not for convertible" Great, SO WHERE IS THE CONVERTIBLE INFO!!! What are we, the red-headed step-child of MOPARS??? If you publish a parts catalog, be sure to include ALL YOUR MODELS! Is there another parts catalog just for the convertible? Sorry for venting but this is frustrating...
  9. Hey Fellas, Trying to determine if I can use Dodge sedan outer door handles on my 1948 Dodge convertible coupe. My originals are trashed and I see a lot for sale on EPay, but mostly for sedan, or unknown. They look the same, but is there a difference in the escutcheon length where it aligns with the belt stainless trim part? My coupe originals are exactly 3-5/8" wide across the back. Does anyone have a sedan handle off their car they could measure so I know what to look/ask for? Also, I have a stamping on the inside of the original coupe escutcheon "DR" if I remember correctly (Door, Right side I assume). No S for sedan or C for coupe. So, would a sedan door handle work for me? Anyone know for sure??? Tks!
  10. Hey Fellas, A local tire guy has some decent vintage 7" wide mopar rims for sale. They have the 4 nubs for a hubcap and the locating pin hole so they are maybe 50's or 60's, I don't know when they phased out the hubcap nubs (anyone know offhand?). My original rims are shot (badly rusted) so I need replacements, and I will be getting modern radials at some point. Probably 215/75/15's since they are the closest to the original size bias ply (Is this true?). I have heard the 215/75's have fit fine for a few folks here on the forum. But my question is on the rim width itself. Would a 7" rim hit any of the steering components? Tie rods? Sway bar? I think the original rims were only 4.5" wide, so adding 2.5" might be problematic. I remember reading members recommended 5.5 to 6 rims for better fit to the radials. And I do not need the nubs anyway since I'll be using the 15" Dodge full wheel cover from the '49+. Thanks in advance for your input guys! Jim
  11. ebruns1

    Ignition key won't turn 1947 New Yorker

    I ordered 4 new key blanks to make copies of my only set of original keys. When I took them to our building maintenance office to make copies (we have a key machine here in our office) the cutter must not have been set properly and all the new keys must be inserted and then pulled back out slightly in order to turn. Maybe you just need to try jiggling your key if it is a copy of the original master. Sometimes my ignition takes quite a bit of monkeying around with the new copies to get to turn. Good luck.
  12. ebruns1

    My new car accessories, I love it!

    That would work equally well for kids...they missed an entirely huge market segment, no wonder it never cought on! Poor marketing...
  13. ebruns1

    Is 180 psi in engine ok?

    Ok Fellas, We just ran a pressure test in my 1958 D-24 project. Not looking good. Got about 30 psi in each cylinder (6 x 30 = 180 right?). The car sat at least 20 yrs. but the engine did spin when I got it home. My buddy pulled the head and found one or 2 valves stuck that he got loose. New battery, points, condenser, head gasket, fuel and water pump, etc. installed. Have spark. Tried to start with some ether (gas tank not installed yet) and could not get any "pop". Do you think the rings are stuck or is there any way to loosen them in the hope that I can start and run it as is? I'd love to get this baby running and on the road any way possible! Otherwise, I guess I'm looking at new rings at best, or a complete re-build at worst. The car says 95K on the odometer and it looks like it! Lots of floor pan and trunk rust through. The PO just covered over them with sheet metal. I'm not doing a frame off concourse resto...just looking to get back in running shape so I can drive while I slowly work on the sheet metal and other odds and ends. Any thoughts on loosening up the rings? PS - The cylinders were not scored when we had the head off, just a slight ridge at the top. Any suggestions much appreciated!
  14. Niel - That's genius! It's so obvious I can't believe I didn't see it from the beginning. That's why I love this forum! You guys usually have a better way to do almost anything. Thanks again!
  15. We are re-using the original pins. The new cylinders did not come with pins. One thing crossed my mind...would the front cylinder pins be any different length than the rear pins? I can't be sure we didn't just grab the first 4 pins we had and installed them. Since there are 2 cylinders ea. for the front hubs vs. one for the rear there is a 66% chance that we used front pins by accident. I did hold the one pin next to another (that we didn't use) and they were the same length, so who knows??? I guess I could file down the ends of the pins as opposed to sanding down the brake linings. I mean, I'm only talking about sanding 1/16" from each shoe. I think there would still be plenty left for years of use correct?

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