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rhelm1953

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About rhelm1953

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hillsboro Oregon
  • Interests
    Old Cars, Motorcycles, Golf, Home remodeling
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth Special deluxe<br />
    1939 Plymouth Pickup

Converted

  • Location
    Hillsboro OR
  • Interests
    hot rods, golf, woodworking

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  • Occupation
    Engineer

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347 profile views
  1. rhelm1953

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    On an overhead valve engine the concern is whether the valves will hit the pistons if the timing chain fails or jumps time. On a flathead that is not a possibility. If the timing chain breaks or the engine jumps time in a flathead, it will stop running and you will need to replace the timing chain and sprockets.
  2. rhelm1953

    6V Battery Cables

    Thank you for the explanation! My degree is Material Science and I work in Semiconductors, I knew the real answer had to do with work and power but wasn't sure how it applied to electric motors. Your explanation made it quite clear and I now also understand why a 12V starter will crank an engine over faster than a 6V starter. Looking back at the 1953 Chrysler current tables I see a huge difference is locked current draw, that's the current the starter initially draws to get the engine turning over.
  3. rhelm1953

    Pictures of my 48 Plymouth coupe

    Looks like a very nice 50's style mild custom. I like car builds that pick a theme and stick with it, what do you have for power?
  4. rhelm1953

    White top

    Whether you paint the tops of the doors to match the roof or the body color I would cut off the white at the bottom of the A pillar and not bring it down to the cowl. I would stop it flush with the bottom of the windshield and bring it around to the center of the door molding. To dress it up more and not add a third color you could then bring in a 3/16 body color pinstripe up 3/16 from the bottom of the white. In effect you would have a white pinstripe against the blue followed by a blue pinstripe against the white and then the white top. Very neat and tidyand your color break is only a couple inches long. This is classic technique to break the color where there is no molding.
  5. rhelm1953

    48 Desoto Project

    I am impressed both by the quality of the work and speed with which you were able to complete the work. I am in the process of upgrading the brakes on my 1950 Plymouth to front discs and dual master cylinder and it's already been six weeks and will be a couple more before I get the new wheels, get them painted and the car back on the road.
  6. rhelm1953

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    I like to see people who think through a problem and make their own tools to get the job done. Not sure I would have ever considered PVC but it's cheap and easy to work with and in compression pretty strong, it also has the benefit of being non-marring to steel.. You have now got me thinking about PVC for driving in seals and bearing races where only a light force is required and you don't want to damage what you are driving in. I learned something today, thanks!
  7. rhelm1953

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    Can't tell you about disc option for the stock axel but I cannot recommend an aftermarket Mustang II setup. Most of the aftermarket Mustang II kits, Fatman, Heidts, etc, have a serious design flaw where a single long bolt is used to fasten the Lower control arm to the frame. The bolt is loaded in single shear and over time it will suffer fatigue failure and shear off where it exits the frame. I have read of several cases of this happening and it happened to me. In my case it was after about 7 years and 50k miles, luckily when the bolt sheared it was at low speed and a few blocks from home and the only damage was a bent lower control arm. Had it happened a month earlier when we were driving the car to Lake Tahoe, through the mountains at highway speeds the ending could have been much worse. Depending on your fabrication skills you could get a dropped axle from a company like speedway and convert to a four link and coil overs, that would give you a lot of options for brakes and ride height.
  8. rhelm1953

    New truck arrive yesterday

    What all the previous respondents have said is true, a properly maintained 6V system will work just fine and provide a reliable vehicle. On the other side of the fence it depends on how you want to use your truck, if you have to rewire the truck because the old wires are broken, frayed and unsafe then you can consider converting to 12V negative ground the advantages there are you can use a modern alternator, after market electronics are much more easily integrated and headlights and bulbs can be found at any parts store. Either path is a good solution, it depends on how you plan to use your truck.
  9. rhelm1953

    1950 Suburban 5.7 Hemi project

    Well deserved award, the car is beautiful and I like that you are not afraid to drive it.
  10. rhelm1953

    New grill for the 50

    Clean and simple, I like it! What did you use for tubing? The Dodge emblem is a nice touch.
  11. I used the Newport engineering wiper motor in my 1950 Plymouth with 6V +ground and used the Newport 6 to 12V power inverter. I followed the wiring instructions and it works like magic. I did not have to isolate the wiper motor from chassis ground and I have +12V available to power a usb charger and a little Bluetooth amp so I can play tunes from my phone.
  12. rhelm1953

    Brass question

    Rather than try to build up the existing piece I think I would get some brass bar stock, drill and tap a hole for the threaded stud and then I would cut and shape the bar stock to the correct profile. If the stud is supposed to be locked to the brass part I would solder it in place. I would think a couple hours of work would get you a new part. A nice little Saturday afternoon job.
  13. rhelm1953

    Lead Additive

    You don't need lead additive for your 1951 Dodge, the flathead six came from the factory with hardened valve seats. This is something I didn't learn until after I purchased a case of lead additive. 🙂
  14. rhelm1953

    1951 Meadowbrook Rebuild

    Back in the day I refreshed the engine or more than one old beater with just rings and bearings using a hone and plastigage. You won't know until you pull the head, if the ring ridge at the top of the cylinder is minor then you can probably reuse the old pistons, hone the cylinders and drop in new rings. It won't be the same as a rebuild but can get you another 20,000 to 30,000 miles. On a lightly used hobby car that might be enough. If you have broken pistons and the cylinders are rough shape then you are in for more work. Pull the head, take a look and decide what you want from the car/engine and proceed accordingly.
  15. rhelm1953

    readjusted timing and carbs.

    love that six cylinder rap!
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