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rhelm1953

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About rhelm1953

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hillsboro Oregon
  • Interests
    Old Cars, Motorcycles, Golf, Home remodeling
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Plymouth Special deluxe<br />
    1939 Plymouth Pickup

Converted

  • Location
    Hillsboro OR
  • Interests
    hot rods, golf, woodworking

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  • Occupation
    Engineer

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399 profile views
  1. If you want to save money and keep it simple then stick with the EFI. When I installed the 2000 Ford 4.6L V8 in my 70 Mercedes I kept the stock engine/transmission harness and bought the Ford wiring diagram for the 2000 Crown Vic donor car. At the end of the day once I traced all the wiring I had about a dozen wires that connected from the engine harness to the car. Essentially it was power, ground, fuel pump, and a few connections to the evaporative control system (that I also carried over from the Crown Vic to keep the computer happy). The engine started on the third revolution, ran smooth and has done so for the last eight years and 50,000 miles. EFI looks complicated but if you are doing a crossover, and have all the harnesses, it's really pretty simple.
  2. rhelm1953

    Disc Brakes

    I just installed the ECI kit on my 1950 Plymouth and converted to dual master with remote fill. The disc bake kit installed without a problem and the mounting adapter for the dual master is well made and bolted right in after I reamed out one hole slightly. I did weld a stop onto the adapter similar to the stock master rather than letting the floor be the pedal stop, it made adjusting the pedal height much easier. Also since the only remote fill master they have is for a power brakes Mark advised me I would have to fabricate something to retain the pedal rod in the shallow indentation in the master. After a little quality time in my "thinking chair" I was able to come up with a simple solution. Bottom line, good parts, good people, and very willing to answer questions. I highly recommend them.
  3. rhelm1953

    Wide-Whitewall Radial Tire Choices

    FYI, when I converted my 1950 Plymouth with stock 15" rims to disc brake I had to replace the wheels. The stock wheels did not clear the calipers, if you want to keep the stock wheels you may need to give up on the disc brakes. I went with the ECI kit that uses GM calipers.
  4. rhelm1953

    main pwr feed into dash protection/fusing question

    A 30A maxi Fuse between the solenoid and the Amp gauge will be fine. The current in a circuit is determined by the load on the circuit not by the maximum current available. If you have the headlights on a relay and your biggest current draw is the blower motors then you should not exceed 30A through the Ammeter.
  5. rhelm1953

    Carburetor float bowl emptying out overnight

    With the carburetor off the car have you tried filling the bowl with the carb sitting on the bench just to see what happens?
  6. rhelm1953

    next question for the 1935 plym coupe

    Interesting comment on replacing the capillary tube. I had never thought of them as being repairable by the home mechanic. I guess anything that can be built can be repaired if you have the right technique. Now I will have to go research.
  7. rhelm1953

    I think I broke my transmission!

    I'm back on the road and did not have to pull the transmission!. The problem was the overdrive solenoid was engaging when I turn on the ignition, with the overdrive engaged reverse was locked up. The reason why the solenoid was engaged is a bit of a puzzle. I wanted to add an indictor light to come on when the governor switch closes to the car easier for my wifr to drive so she would know when to let off the gas to switch to overdrive. I got a 6V LED and wired it in parallel with the overdrive relay. One wire connected to the horn relay that's hot when the ignition is on and one wire connected to the ground circuit through the governor switch. For some reason when wired like this the overdrive would be disengaged when the car first started but one the solenoid was energized it would not release when the governor switch opened. Even more strange when I disconnected the LED lead from the horn relay so there was no power to the LED the problem continued, I had to disconnect both leads of the LED for the overdrive to work correctly. For now I have given up on the indicator light and the car is working perfectly. I will think about this some more.
  8. rhelm1953

    Carburetor float bowl emptying out overnight

    The only way the fuel can leak out of the bowl overnight would be if the bowl had a crack or a pinhole. When running the fuel is sucked up and out by low pressure (vacuum) in the venturi or by the accelerator pump pushing it out. The old carburetors do not have a sealed bowl so fuel can evaporate but that is not likely to happen overnight unless the engine is really hot and boils the fuel. If you refilled the bowl and the car did not start then either your problem is not fuel related or the carb is dirty and fuel passages are plugged. It is possible when removing the carb top you bent the float adjustment so the float is not letting the bowl fill or as Plymouthy said you should check the fuel pump delivery, one other possibility is the float needle is stuck or clogged with dirt. I would verify there is good spark and check the engine vacuum when cranking, if that checks rebuild the carburetor. The beauty of these old cars is the simplicity that makes troubleshooting fairly easy.
  9. rhelm1953

    304ss exhaust to manifold corrosion / help needed

    The link from T120 sums it up pretty well and while there is some potential for galvanic corrosion of the cast iron it should be low due the minimal moisture present in the exhaust manifold. You could further decrease/eliminate the risk by getting your exhaust manifolds ceramic coated. That would give you an insulator between the two metals. Personally I like the idea of the donut gasket and you could take the exhaust manifolds to a machine shop to bevel the outlet. Then you could slip your donut over the extended pipe (or better yet a flared end on the exhaust pipe) and it would increase you alignment tolerance.
  10. rhelm1953

    I think I broke my transmission!

    Yes I am now thinking the problem is in the overdrive and not the transmission itself. I just don't understand how anything I did could have caused the problems I am having. I am mentally preparing myself to pull the transmission this weekend.
  11. When I purchased my 1950 Plymouth three years ago it had already been converted to a 3-speed overdrive and after adding the correct relay and cleaning up some wiring the transmission and overdrive have been working just as designed by mother Mopar. A couple months ago the master cylinder failed so I took the opportunity to upgrade to front disc brakes and dual master with remote fill. While I had the car in the shop I also replaced the oil pan gasket and planned to replace the parking brake drum. The brake upgrade went without a hitch, as did the gasket replacement. After I removed the old hub from the back of the transmission I discovered the replacement parking brake drum I had was not compatible with the overdrive so I put the original hub back in place, reconnected the drive shaft and lowered the car to the ground. When I put the car in reverse to back out of the garage and let out the clutch the engine stalled, I tried a second time and the engine stalled again, I put it in first and eased ahead, no problem, put in reverse, let out the clutch the engine stalls. Bottom line the transmission works in the 3 forward gears when I have the rear axle up on jackstands, but is locked when I place it in reverse and will stall the engine. Procedure to remove/replace rear hub on transmission: Car up on jackstands Remove driveshaft disengage overdrive and loosen retaining nut (nut was tight but not frozen) remove hub replace hub tighten retaining nut and torque to specification reinstall driveshaft and lower car to the ground re-engage overdrive Attempt to back up and transmission locked in reverse Troubleshooting to date Shift lever moves smoothly through all positions I can "feel" 1st and reverse engage when I shift gears examine shift linkage and review adjustments from service manual (everything checks) disconnect shift linkage and manually move shift levers to place transmission in reverse (still locked) Test reverse with overdrive engaged and disengaged (no change reverse still locked in both cases) With the transmission in reverse and the clutch depressed I can smoothly turn the driveshaft in both directions, but when the engine drives the transmission it is locked One possible cause? When I engaged and disengaged the overdrive while trouble shooting the overdrive cable slipped in the clamp, this raised the possibility in my mind that when I re-engaged the overdrive after replacing the rear hub it might not have been fully engaged. If that were the case could that damage the overdrive and cause the problem I am having. In troubleshooting I have disconnected the cable and manually moved the overdrive lever to full stop in both directions and tested reverse (it remains locked) I really don't want to pull the transmission but I have convinced myself this is not a simple shift linkage adjustment problem but that something has broken in the transmission. I am at a loss as to what that could be and how it could happen with the work that was done. I appreciate you feedback and thoughts.
  12. rhelm1953

    engine swap

    If reliability is your main concern you can keep the flat head and update your ignition, fuel and cooling systems Ignition: change over to 12V for more reserve starting power and swap out the distributor for a more modern mopar transistorized ignition Fuel: replace the carter B&B with a new weber carburetor for better fuel management, personally I would switch to dual carbs at the same time for better fuel distribution Cooling: replace the radiator with a modern pressure radiator with a two or three pound cap These upgrades can be done individually without taking the car off the road for an extended period of time. There is information on all these upgrades on the site and with a few modern updates your flathead will be ready to go for another 70 years. (How many modern engines do you think will still be running in 70 years)
  13. rhelm1953

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    On an overhead valve engine the concern is whether the valves will hit the pistons if the timing chain fails or jumps time. On a flathead that is not a possibility. If the timing chain breaks or the engine jumps time in a flathead, it will stop running and you will need to replace the timing chain and sprockets.
  14. rhelm1953

    6V Battery Cables

    Thank you for the explanation! My degree is Material Science and I work in Semiconductors, I knew the real answer had to do with work and power but wasn't sure how it applied to electric motors. Your explanation made it quite clear and I now also understand why a 12V starter will crank an engine over faster than a 6V starter. Looking back at the 1953 Chrysler current tables I see a huge difference is locked current draw, that's the current the starter initially draws to get the engine turning over.
  15. rhelm1953

    Pictures of my 48 Plymouth coupe

    Looks like a very nice 50's style mild custom. I like car builds that pick a theme and stick with it, what do you have for power?
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