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About Dartgame

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
  • Biography
    been wrenching as a hobby for 35 yrs, restored two darts.
  • Occupation
    chemical sales

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Chicago suburbs
  • Interests
    rock and roll, all things mopar, home remodeling, live music, hot rods
  • My Project Cars
    1952 plymouth business coupe


  • Location
    Suburban Chicago
  • Interests
    Mopars, rock and roll, house remodeling

Recent Profile Visitors

649 profile views
  1. oil pump question

    Yes, you should prime the pump before installing it. To do so, submerge the body of the pump in oil and turn the gear until all the air bubbles disappear from the suction and discharge ports and then install it.
  2. Vibration damper fitment/pulley alignment ?

    I examined the seal wear pattern on both. Taking a leap of faith and making the assumption that both seals were of the same type. The wear marks indicate about an 1/8 to 3/16” difference. This leads me to believe the hub does not engage the crank snout the same depth. But of course the proof is in the pudding. I wont be able to do much further real world checks until I get to installing the part. Kind of frustrating....
  3. I am looking at a three piece damper/hub/crank pulley assembly. I have a standard non dampened crank pulley. In comparing the two, the position of the pulley is different by around 3/16 “ or so, enough to make me concerned about pulley alignment with the water pump and generator. My question is - do these two assemblies engage the crank snout the same depth ?
  4. door sill 49 Plymouth

    Too bad the ones being repopped are so expensive. I wonder if there are not enough of us in need of these that a member here might step up to make some ?
  5. which engine would be best

    Like others above said I’d do the truck motor. However it may be a decision based on overall condition of each. If the truck motor is worn out badly then the 218 might be a better choice. Only way to tell is pull the heads and the pan on each and inspect. If I understand it correctly all you need is the 230 flywheel to install the motor in your car. To verify you need a tooth count on the 201flywheel, if its 146 you are probably good to go with a standard 230 flywheel.
  6. 52 ply pics

    How cool is this. It sounds like you known about the car for some time ?
  7. First restoration project

    I’d do as dpollo suggests and while the oil is soaking get your vacuum and cleaning rags and go to town ! NICE PROJECT !
  8. 1953 Plymouth crankshaft

    Strongly suggest you consider using a Best Gasket brand rear main seal. I had heard good things about them, but was doubtful considering price. I put one in my 52 218 that had the rope external seal - with the 53 and up style seal. You may have to plug a couple of holes in the rear main cap with JB weld, clean the holes and cap to surgical level before plugging. Not a leak so far. Excellent product. WORTH EVERY PENNY.
  9. Moore's Auto Salvage

    Bought some pieces from them this summer. Kind of slow shipping. One item never arrived, even after persistent polite conversations on the phone with them. For me I was okay with the way it went. The item missing was minor.
  10. Bronze bushing/ spacer for flywheel bolts, Help!

    I recall the bolts need to go in from the engine side to “lock” in place. Someone else may know better....
  11. Vent wind glass seal

    I had a vent window replaced - took it the local glass shop and they installed it for a 20$. I understand this is not a tough job - I reasoned it was something I did not need to learn and only needed one done. I figured the cost of the tape roll might offset the shops fee. What I did do is remove the old glass from the frame and also from a donor. That was a pain. Soaked in very strong solvent for many hrs and slowly scrapped out the old setting tape using old dental tools, very messy and slow. Next, I sand blasted the frame and painted it before taking to the glass shop...
  12. 1951 Plymouth P23 Transmission output spline leak

    when I rebuilt my trans I used a speedy sleeve, new seal, and then cleaned the splines on the output and the drum. I put a thin layer of silicone on the washer and put it together. No leaks. Be sure to allow 24 hrs for the silicone to cure. Silicone cures with moisture from the atomosphere so in a closed space it takes a long time.
  13. 1953 Chrysler Brakes Rebuild Thread

    For the lines get some copper nickel - sold at all parts stores. Never rusts easy to bend and easy to flare.
  14. Ignition lock question 48 Dodge ?

    Take it to a lock smith ?
  15. Carter BB DTE2

    I asked George Asche about that - he says the jet is larger and the emulsification tube has larger holes in it on a truck version.