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Lou Earle

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Everything posted by Lou Earle

  1. My experience has been that badly rusted tanks are usually badly rusted on the top. Why because there is usually a lot of room for moisture or humidity to accumulate and condense on the tank top- not so on bottom covered with gas. So I always try to keep all my tanks full at all time when sitting 3 says weeks or years. I know about the bad gas now but I do not think 3 to 6 months will make a difference Lou
  2. If u cannot find any I have some used ones Lou
  3. Me I went with bad ass red from car quest- truck fleet metallic color- can get exact color if u want it lou
  4. I would check the left front first- especially if the pedal is hard then starts to go down as u hold pressure on it- That is usuall a laking wheel cylinder on the opposite .Ie leak on left pulls right. I you find no problem on left shoe - fluid moisture then pull right and look for disintegrating brake shoe- I have had that happen and cause a pull or lock up WElcome hope we can help Lou
  5. If I were in your position - fluid drive with no transmission and no emergency brake I would go with a George Asche rebuilt overdrive Here are a few advantages: 1- no alterations to anything- gear shift levers, drive shaft, clutch, anything! 2 instillation is quite easy - about 3 hours-remember u are removing nothing. 3 u now have an emergency brake to hold it - u need that - it is a necessity with fluid drive. I have 2 overdrives from Asche and they are great in a 47 and 46 Plymouth. I do not have kick down on carb but switch on gearshift so I can change to overdrive whenever. I also have a t-5(remember it needs to come from an s-10 otherwise the gearshift is way back- so not so easy to find now) installed in my A model( pinto engine). It is great but a ton of work and mods. I have seen Dons and it is a great machine but a lot of work to get it in. The only thing is remember the relays and solenoids are 6 volt - if u are going 12 volt let George or any other supplier know so he can use 12 volt stuff. Believe me th cost and time will be cheaper. I am putting a t/;5 5 speed floor shift in a 50 fastback- making it a bit of a hot rod- have an adapter plate etc but remember I must now cut drive shaft , install front yoke on drive shaft and later on rear when i get new rear end. Also I am not really happy about not having an emergency brake in the interim. Whatever u do good luck Lou
  6. "When u are sure it is a fuel problem check you yr ignition first" Wendell Mimbs 2006. I would check my timing and then my points- that symptom is consistent with a timing / worn/loose points. Lou
  7. Stock engine in 47 coupe 16 inch 205 radials and Asche overdrive- at 65 70 get a reliable 21 to 23. Have gotten a little better at 55- about 24. Lou
  8. If you have original front independent suspension I recommend u consider rebuilding it. I have a 34 4 door independent front suspension and it rides great. It is a superb set up - Plymouth kept that for about 35 years on cars. My nova front clip on my 48 plym is not really a great improvement at all. I have seen some really neat and clean installations of v/6 Buick engines in the 34's at local shows.anyway where are u located? If you are scrapping parts let me know I am always hoarding 34 parts for th erainy day. Lou take a look: http://www.carnut.com/photo/list/ply/ply34.html
  9. was film and he did a great job no flaws at all
  10. It is nice- 60 mph about 1400 rpm 70 mph- 1800 rpm 2.97 rear end
  11. Had the local sign shop make some vinyl inserts for the cheap plastic hubcaps. Then spent 350 to have windows tinted. I generally do not like tint on old cars but on this one it really improved the look- slightly bad boy look- and will help some with the ac in the car. This was a bit of a wreck - mechanically when I go it- nova clip 350 / 350 steering wheel crooked in car etc. Now it is on verge of being good daily driver- installed 700 r4 overdrive(18-22mpg depending on 60 or 75mph - has 2 brl carb) Still working on A/C- then needs booster on brakes but getting really good to drive daily. before: After:
  12. "One thing I noticed, once the engine would begin to "catch", the starter would immediately pop out and sort of free-wheel. I have noticed this before, although, by the time this happens, the engine will usually catch and I am burning gas." My experience is this "kicking out" of turning flywheel indicates is usually caused by spark being to far advanced and kicking back engine - that is the spark ignites the fuel before the piston is in proper place and the engine kicks back a bit and the starter is dis engaged. Also u want good battery cables - get some welding leads and have some made up - they are really good Lou
  13. I am confused-NOS new old stuff?? ir Nasty old s#%t? Hard to tell on e bay
  14. tank could be full of mscl crap - remove and clean
  15. After much fabricating, massaging , cussing and taking it in and out 30 to 50 times got the A/C compressor and alternator on bracket and in with pulleys aligned and ready to go. It is a close fit but it works. Don questioned - rightly so - the clearance to battery etc- it is close but have about 3/4 inch clearance between end of a/c bracket and the inner fender well. battery stays in same place no clearance problems Lou
  16. Actually , I think , in fact I know, Plymouth did away with then in 1952 or 53. I just removed a crank pulley Assembly from a 48 Plymouth - at least engine was in a 48- no vibration dapner same for 53 engine I just removed crank pulley from and just again today removed crank pulley from 52 with unknown motor- id d number ground off- don't know why - none of these 3 engines had a balancer. If I were u I would just remove the pulley assembly and replace with another non balancer equipped one. Do you Have wide or narrow belt? I probably have a wide one. Lou
  17. Finally got the original wide belt crank pulley out using heat. on the 1 3/8 bolt- by the way worked on 3 engines had one 1 3/nut one 1 3/44 and one with 1 7/16 inch. Do know why but 3 engines 3 sizes for crank pulley bolts. Anyway removed all bracing so I could get electric impact hammer/wrench in position- difficult then ran it on go then prise bar on socket wrench handle no go then mapp gas blowtorch about 2 minutes and then impact wrench again and spun right off!! That was hardest part of the job Lou
  18. In 50 fastback I am installing a/c. Got the bracket with compressor attached installed for a fitting and final adjustments. I used crank pulley (whole nother story about getting old one out!!!),fanpully and fan from 53 junker wagon. These old junkers in my yard just keep yielding up stuff I or others need Anyway all j indications are the bracketry will work. It take a lot of time to get this straight- I see why makers charge a lot - I have at least 75 hours in the brackett alone. Well it sits on 2 head bolts that have threads in the head bolt . I made studs and threaded them in the bolts the attach compressor on to the bracket then lift bracket and all into the compartment and slide down on the studs and the bolts that ate in the bosses where the generator sat. There is comfortable clearance - not a lot but comfortable-you know just enough so you can scrape your knuckle while turning the las t bolt 1/32 of an inch at a time !! Will post more when completed.
  19. I put them in warm water or lay them outside on a hot day to get them pliable then I put dish washing liquid on the part to be inserted in the groove and work them in with flat bladed screwdriver- works for me
  20. Got the 54 wagon back from shop. Looks good - colors - mustang65 springtime yellow - gm truck white. I sanded the headlight rims to remove the pot metal pits sprayed with filler primer (Tim helped some) sprayed with urethane enamel then put visor over them - a really cheap way out of the pitted ring dilemma for me. Also here are pics of original rubber rear splash guard painted and other side a splash guard I made from 54 4 door. Which looks best. I am I think try the chrome paint on the original as am not 2 keen on the yellow- I thought it would be good but I don't care for it now. Le t me know opinions Lou
  21. Also just noticed copper tubing for gas line - very dangerous in my book I had that and one broke almost in 1/2 due to just simple vibration. There is a reason the line was originally steel. Copper is just to flexible to withstand a lot of un avoidable normal vibration. Just my observation Lou
  22. Just noticed you have a non original ignition When I put a Mallory electronic on a 48 ford I had terrible soot/wet plugs, Then was told to open gap to between 50 and 70 thous. I did 70 and all problems cleared right up. Lou
  23. Here is one site http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Main_Jets_for_Weber_Carburetors_s/60.htm Take the air cleaners off and run it- sounds funny but it might be them I got fooled as did Don by them one time. Have u noticed that the oil on dipstick is very thin and smells strongly of gas? After u change oil is there more oil/gas in the pan as reflected by higher level on dip stick? If there is a poor gas air mix it is usually reflected by a lot of soot on plugs. Sometimes wet. also my experience has been excess gas is pushed out thru the exhaust valve and into the muffler tail pipe not down into oil pan unless I had really bad rings. Anyway good luck Lou
  24. Found suction cups and straps at ace hdw on line 52 bucks for all Lou http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1297449&cp=&sr=1&origkw=suction+cups&kw=suction+cups&parentPage=search&searchId=30075483593
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