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Lou Earle

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Everything posted by Lou Earle

  1. Wellhere it is my new 58 doge 2 dr with 325 engine. 92,000 miles. Had to installnew gas tank and clean carb - riuns like a sewing machine- just right and tras is good as are brakes. Please note orginal FM converter and 8track oplayer- both work as does raido but not fuel guage and the clock- well I cannot have everything.
  2. I had the exact same problem with a 47 . Then I was blowing air thru the gas line into the tank and blew the ceramic filter off!! Ran fine after that.!!! Apparently the ceramic filter got clogged and prohibited the fuel from entering. Also if you have an in line filter it will do the same thing--had that happen to. me- see if you can blow off the ceramic filter in the tank then use 2 in line filters- one near the tank and one before the carb. Lou
  3. Tim - He screwed up the -- orginal flagship and the other ship fell off only one returned so obviously he got a second had third rate flag on the sister ship. Gee I wonder who is in Grant's tomb?
  4. Having problems getting 59 engineto fire off after valve job. Probably have other problems I am also addressing Lou
  5. have that same heater in a 50 fastback- works well Lou
  6. Was trying to get 6 v starter onto a 59 automatic to fast spin it-whole nother story- and discovered 6 v will not fit 12 plate. Close examination show the 6 v has a larger diameter shaft. The 12 v is much smaller so the 6 volt will not mesh properly. So it looks like a 12 volt will fit a 6 volt but not visa versa- tried 3 6 volt before I discovered the problem. So beware a 12 volt starter might work but it will be loose fitting and teeth might not mesh very well. Lou
  7. The rear bow on mine is sloped or tapered one side about 3/8 inch larger than other so I am trying to fine out which goers forward- thick to front or thin to front Lou
  8. Made a new bow (wood) fro a 48 convert. However forgot which way it installs. It is tapered from thick to thin from the front to back --somewhat weged . Can anyone tell me which way it goes? thick or thin to front? thanks Lou
  9. re read the statement for the third time!! Slow learner!! Does the engine speed pu in thrid gear with car not running faster- is engine outrunning car? If so slipping clutch. But you said sluggish- so this is a wild shot-if you are sure it is fuel check your points!!! Sure sounds like bad or old points to me - Starts fien but misses or sluggish on accleration. Check the easiest first Lou
  10. My mistake- looked at name and erroneously concluded fluid dr. Here is my test for standard Find level or slightly inclined straight road get car up to about 25-30. then in third mash accelerator to floor. If engine speeds up with no increase or engine revs do not match speed= clutch is slipping- for some reason. First adjust clutch some-see manual but disregard the 1 inch play bit. just loosen her up some until slipping stops then fine tune it. Now if oil is problem with the clutch- remove clutch clean with gas or lacquer thinner. Then dry with blowtorch!! I do this often on bad brake shoes and it works just fine.Usually there has not been en oughth penetration into the clutch or brake to cause a problem. However what I read -again- seems likely that the adjustment is out. Lou
  11. check the fluid in the fluid drive- mine was very sluggish drained it then added hydraulic tractor fluid and all was fine- slow process but worth it
  12. Here is what I sent E bay about one of their prefered transporteers- checked the next one dead onthe money Just beware Lou I recently purchased a car in Vermont- to be delivered in GA. Express auto transport quoted me a figure of $810 to ship to me . When I called them they did a bait and switch and notified me that the cost would be over 1100 because it was so far north. I questioned there excuse- poor computer- since my old computer could figure the distance 1200 miles just fine- I declined them and said I was going to start a complaint about them this is it. the next bidder united set price at the quoted one on the net. I personally think this is a rip-off by express auto. Please let me know what action you are taking- thanks - if you do anything at all Lou Earle
  13. Well my 2cents worth When George Asche was at my house he had just turned 250000 miles He bought that car used and has never put a wrench on the engine. He uses synthetic oil and changes oil about every 4 or 5 thousand miles. believer the following to be true Oil bath filters are OK IF KEPT PROPERLY MAINTAINED.However many times oils not replaced or the hair is not cleaned and I think the hair wears out and cannot hold the oil in suspension so they become ineffective and of little value. Next we now have excellent fuel filters that stop a lot of crud into the engine. Next the oil filter- the by pass works just fine however our filters are 100 times better. The engines are high nickel content so the blocks are fine etc. Seems to me the key really becomes the oil.Our present oils are light years ahead of the then oil- 20 cents a quart-for the good stuff!!!15 cents for the re used!!! So it always comes down to clean gas air and oil and long running engine. It would not surprise me at all to see a 48 or so go 300,0000 before any work is necessary. Also remember the first go round is usually just rings and maybe bearings- an in the car job - very cheap. and remember this at 1.50 a quart for OK oil if you burn a quart every 300 miles for $450 you can go 30 thousand miles!! or for $1500 you can go about 450 thousand miles. Me ,I suspect these cars never wear out if cared for- In 1972 I was in NY city and saw thousands of old dodges and plyms as taxis-I asked why the guy told me - spoke English then-they were cheap never wore out or broke down and were sought after but the pollution was going to get them. Any way my 2 cents- What would I do I would drive it until it drops- meanwhile looking of another engine-used and get her ready to dropin-in then next 40 years or so Lou
  14. Got a hold of nice 59 plym 4 dr 6cyl automatic. Naturally needs work. I was removing the engine and automatic trans and have discovered a shielded cable going into the trans and cannot find how how to get it loose. It comes from the push buttons into the trans and it is the shifter cable from the buttons. I am stuck anyone know how to get that cable loose? Lou
  15. Got a hold of nice 59 plym 4 dr 6cyl automatic. Naturally needs work. I was removing the engine and automatic trans and have discovered a shielded cable going into the trans and cannot find how how to get it loose. It comes from the push buttons into the trans and it is the shifter cable from the buttons. I am stuck andyone know how to get that cable loose? Lou
  16. 54 wagon 66 mustang springtime yellow and gm white to me this combo would be fantastic on a 48
  17. my 48 nova clipped 350 chev engiend black and silver
  18. they also grew on my butt arms legs etc when I fell of my trike and bike as a kid
  19. "A good 6 volt starter would last a very long time in a 12 volt car. I've seen a few 12 volt conversions retaining the 6 volt starter without any issues" that is true however I had a 12 volt system pushing a 6 volt starter on a model a 200 ci engine. It chipped a tooth off. Several other folks have had the same problem. My 34 200 ci engine was really flying when starting- that was not the problem it was the violent engagement that worried me. I usually do not change or convert the starters but I do on small engines now. Lou
  20. My 34 plym has been converted to 12 volt. However it still has the 200ci engine. When I start it up sounds like whirl wind in there - and to violent So took another old big starter 6v to shop he converted it to 12 v for 135 bucks- completely rebuilt - new coils brushes starter gear etc. Not a bad way to go for me - gives me peace of mind that I am not going to bust a tooth on flywheel when engaging. Lou ps Now that master cyls are 215 to 250 bucks each I am taking one to local machine shop to see what they can do re sleeving for. Will post results later- hopefully they can do job for a lot less. Would be nice to get s steel sleeved for about 150 Lou
  21. the napa part is just fine as far as I can tell used one about 2 years ago does fine in order to really hone it well i think both ends should be off so you can go all the way from either direction but the smallest imperfection can cause problems- I hav e had 2 brake failures both due to bad master cyls- and both resulted in serious damage _ now try not to take any chances especially with the brakes!!!!! y
  22. Just re-did mine while on the car. 1drain the cyl as best you can- turkey baster works. 2remove the brake lines-outside one first - cover the ends with something- I use alum. foil. 3 remove the nut that the brake lines attach to. 4 pull out spring. 5 unlock the plunger-run the locking bolt all the way up the threaded part or the eye bolt . 6 now run the plunger all the way down and it will come off the eye bolt remove the the plunger rod by pulling it out and down. 7 now using 1/4 inch socket remove the nuts(7/16) holding the rubber boot in place. then push the plunger inside the master to the far end and remove. Now you are ready to to hone the cyl. However, what this really sounds like to me is the fact that the master has a rust spot in it deep enough to let fluid pass thru. I that be the case honing is necessary but I bet it will not get the depression out- I have honed 4 with NO success- all failed. I haggled with Napa and got a new one last week for 210 bucks. I am actually going to take an old one to a machinist here and see if they can sleeve it will keep the board posted on how that works out cost wise and if feasible LOu
  23. Quote: From another forum: "The main thing to remember is that this bad stuff *cannot* happen If the valve never reaches the crucial temperature. Whether the valve reaches the crucial temperature depends mainly on how the car is driven and used (Towing, drag racing or pedal-on-the-floor hauling WILL heat the valves--driving down the highway at a constant 70 won't, and neither will hopping from traffic light to traffic light in the city or running down to the local grocery for a carton of ice cream.) Other factors in the margin of safety include the size of the exhaust valve, its material, and the efficiency of valve seat cooling in that particular engine design." I am sorry but my practical experience sayys othewise. My 49 caddy engine was drven normally - never over 65 and sure enough after abvout 5,000 miles of driving the valve seats were seriously receeded- I personally saw the effects on that engine and on a anotyher engine- the caddy was mine I can speak with experience from that- the other heads I do not know only told it was buick engine of the 50's that had same mess. I wish the above were true but my experience says othewise. Cost me 1500 ten years ago to get that mess resolved. I wish the quote were true Lou
  24. Ok Looks like the 60 382 engine has no hardened seats. Now anyone have suggestions as to what addatives to use in the gas to forestall a valve job? Lou
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