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Lou Earle

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Everything posted by Lou Earle

  1. That heater water return thing again

    I have several A models and one 48 Ford with a 53 mercury flathead .If the timing is any off they will overheat bad! I never knew why Fords did that and others did not . Thanks Tod. I posted my s"cientific findings " because soem in earlier postings thoughtthe water flowed from the water pump to the heater and then into the head. Rather than fron head to heater then to water pump Lou
  2. That heater water return thing again

    Well the temp of the hose from the rear of the head to the heater is Hotter than the one leading from the heater to the water pump. Not a lot hotter but noticeably hotter. The lazar temp Gage is busted so could not do it.BUT take a look at the back of the water pump. Seems like the water pump pushes water down the distribution tube to the back where the original heater connection heater is located on the passenger side rear of the head . So that would indicate that the water at the rear of the head is the hot after going thru the dist tube. and be warm as it passes by the temp Gage. So I believe the water enters from the rear of the head to the heater and returns to the water pump. Also take a look at the rear of the water pump- the main outlet to the engine is thru the dist tube to the engine- makes sense- send the coolest water down the area with the most heat so the water can absorb it. That explains to me why the cut off is at the rear - it cuts off the hot water going into the heater. Maybe not all that important but I am glad to now know how the water circulates.
  3. test

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  4. heater/temp selection

    could not get the rear plug out--Sooo made another hole!!! Lou http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/redpen42/MVC-011S.jpg[/img]
  5. heater/temp selection

    I thought the rear heater attachment was for water flowing to the heater and the front was the return to the system. Am I wrong?/ Is it that the front attachment it the beginning and the rear is the return? Lou
  6. on the front mount on my 34- basically the same as the 48 etc when it came apart. I ground off the top studs leading and going thru the steel front mount then clamped it all together and drilled thru top plate on the rubber thru the rubber and thru the lower mount plate that gave me a straight shot thru all. I then put bolts thru and welded them to the mount. Then when I pt the mount on the bracket on the motor and it works just fine Lou
  7. heater/temp selection

    pic of my new heater/temp gauge hook up[/img]
  8. How do I post pics?????

    cannot find the infpo
  9. How do I post pics?????

    hope this woerks
  10. Anyone got any suggestions on removing the plugs in the water by pass connection and the block so I can install fitting and connect the hoses?/ Have wire brushed the threads(exposed) to remove paint then shot it with pb blaster- still will not budge- Think it would help if I ran engine and got it hot? Lou
  11. No but I stayed at a express inn last night !!!!!!!!!!1 will probably get the same results that you get by sending the money!!!!! By the way some princess in Mnasfujweprow wants me to marry her because her uncle's will says she gets millions if she marries an American Lou
  12. STP in trans rear_end??

    On A model Fords many folks put STP intheir trans and rear ends it really does seem to quiet them down some and maks shifting a non syncro. trans better. Of course these people are in the south mostly- So I was wondering if anyone does that with their plyms or dodges? Or what other addativies does anyone use in trans or rear? I have heard that Lucas products are good Lou
  13. Heater switch

    Installing a 6 volt tropic air(Old but very good) heater in my 48 4 door cab. Question will the variable speed control knobs sold today at auto store work ok on 6 volt? Lou
  14. Engine Color

    I am told that about 15 to 20 percent of an engines ability to dissipate heat is from the block itself being exposed to the air. Powder coating could drastically inhibit that process. I have actually seen engines with 5 or 6 coats of paint heat up above normal . This is especially true in early flathead fords. That is why you will not see an original paint on an engine with primer underneath. Lou
  15. Head Gasket...Dry or Gasket Sealer?

    Big block Ford gaskets of the 60 s blew head gaskets all the time until someone discovered alunimum spray paint!! They used that onthe gasket and the head as a sealer. Let it get tacky and put gasket and head on and torque her down. Solved that problen on the Ford. I do the same thing with all my gaskets and not had a problem Lou
  16. Opinion needed

    Yes it is a big job to take the steering colum out. Either the whole unit or just the tube. But just the tube and gearshift would be easier. On a convertable you ,I think< can remove the tubve and gearshift from inside the car. O a a closed car u usuall rip the headliner when removing the tube inside the car. Lou
  17. Partial Rebuild break in?

    George Asche had me run 30 weight non detergent for 100 miles then drain. then regular 30 detergent until broken in. How do you know broken in? watch your fan after heating up- turn engine off if it does not kick back it is NOT broken in. When it kicks back ( usually around 1200 miles) it is broken in. Then run detergent-your choice. As to the by pass. It does an adequate job and in fact large truck have a bypass filter in addition to the regular one. Why? they run a very fine filter in them to catch the smallest particles. Why because it is slower than regular full flow filter, The Amsoil site has some info on this. As a practical matter the by pass works well if you drive and the oil pressure e is over 30? or some level. George Asche has a 51 or 52 he has driven almost 300 thous using by pass filter and synthetic oil - he says he is going to rebuild it soon- smoke a little now!!! In A model fords we make our own bearings and those engines are lasting 100 thous now before burn any oil. And with NO filter the vast majority run multi weight and high detergent oil . If your really concerned about particles in the oil change it every 1000 miles like the book says. On my 48 Plymouth I had in 57 yes 57 it had over 100 thous when I got it - (my mother drove it on dirt roads and a public health nurse in Va.) It Burne a quart every 3 to 400 miles- but I note the new 52 wagon Tom McCall tested in 52 burned a quart every 330 when he drove it over 60. I used used motor oil in that car and my later52 and later 54 for untold miles and years. not good or bad just did. No problems except with my slender pocketbook - that was why used oil!!I ragged the hell out of that 48 - Did you know you can go to 50 in second gear?? Never any engien problems in any - but Did you know u could get a used trans or rear end for 10 bucks then? When all the dust settles it is quite simple-- these engines will last forever if treated and serviced properly with the better oils of today even with the by pass system. And remember the by pass system was an option early on!!! but if worried convert to full flow or change oil a lot. Lou
  18. Weird choke /Air problem

    Well the Taxi got home fine but on way over and back I notice a slight jerkiness or missing at over 45. I changed points- badly worn- plugs very good-clean light tan color gaped at 35- But problem persisted UNTIL I pulled the choke out a bit then ceased and ran great. I have installed a new hose to the wiper-no leaks there I do not think. So what have I got? Maybe air creeping in somewhere? Thu throttle ? Help Lou
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