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Lou Earle

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Everything posted by Lou Earle

  1. My actual daily driver for trips under 60 miles one way is my 48 p 15 4 door cab. drips a lot of oil but good driver. I got very lucky last time I timed it- started in 23 temp right off the first turnover this am and has been doing so for several months Lou
  2. How is i going to stick inside a hole?
  3. Cannot buy them as cheap as mine -they would look better I am sure- but mine came out of mscl undefined bolt pile!! Besides anyone who want to remove my gas pedal and see if mine are correct needs some serious help upstairs- my cars reek with NOT ORGINIAL. LOU
  4. I am working on a new to me 48 - will debut it later- When I peeled back the carpet the front floor was rusted out some and the studs for the gas pedal were gone. Here is prototype of replacement stud I made in about 2 minutes on my bench grinder. Made 2 more out of 1 inch bolts and welded them to the new metal patch I put in floor under the heel area of the gas pedal. seems to work fine. Lou
  5. Sounds a lot like miss firing on exhaust stoke to me. Be sure it is firing on compression stroke. Timing is very critical on these engines even 3 degrees off and it is not going to fire. Also try a 12 volt battery it will spin it fast enough to ocer come some stuck valves
  6. PS Make sure the engine is firing on the compression stroke!! Many times someone will install the distributor backwards and it will never fire!! I have found that on 2 cars.
  7. I recently got an old 48 - not run in 4 years but motor looked rebuilt -and it was. Here is how I got it started and it runs well and in fact is a newly rebuilt engine. Other owner had carb messed up and had quit on car. 1 drained oil. - poured in some kerosene- 4 quarts let it sit a while-Do not crank it over with kerosene in it. then ran air hose extension down oil dipstick tube and agitated the kerosene. 2-Let it sit overnight then drained it That got a lot of sludge out. 3 Then put in 30 wt oil. removed the plugs. Then cranked her until had good oil pressure. Let it sit while I installed new points condenser and plugs in (removed distributor and did work on bench ). re installed dist. And installed a rebuilt carb. 4 Set the timing( be sure and remember-I write it down- where the rotor button is pointing when u remove the dist- Don't crank and re-install in the same position) 5- make a good gas source-simplest one is can with fitting on bottom hanging from a 2x4 (gravity flow) attach the gas. 6-make a wire with an alligator clip on one end attach it to the small stud on the starter relay. then when ready touch the other end to the neg side of the battery to turn engine over. I crank it without starting and build up oil pressure again. then I attach an alligator clipped wire at each end directly to coil ignition side then to neg side of battery. Check and make sure your battery is installed correctly- negative to starter solenoid pos to ground. 7 pour some gas in the carb- 2 tablespoons- give it a minute and fire it up. If doesn't fire begin tracing problem- but it should start. Can also use soem quick start but should notr have to . One other thing you can do is try all the above using a 12 volt battery- will not hurt the dist or starter BUT DO NOT TURN ON ANY LIGHTS RADIO ETC. I would get it started in the car before I removed it. I have done this on 5 or 6 "bad engines" only to find they all ran with varying conditions. The one I just started turns out to be almost a new rebuild and I bought the whole car for 400!!! The guy swore the engine was shot!!! Engine repairs - internal can get rather expensive consider this: if your car burns/drips a quart of oil every 100 miles and you get 1.50a quart oil 100 quarts of oil will carry you 10,000. miles. $1,500 of oil will carry you 100,000 miles. Engine rebuild will be about 1500 minimum. I would near about bet the farm your engine is not that bad. If it does not start send the board specifices and I bet these guys can get it started from their computers!! Lou
  8. when I was a kid and driving my first P-15- my first car- the vibrator wet out from time to time - the back or side is removable to pull it out and have it checked - God only know where!! If you do not hear a hummmmmm when turn on it is probably gone bad- I have sen them on Ebay Lou
  9. The oil can set up was an aftermarket Item basically designed to attaceh under an A model hood. They are considered prize accessories by Model A fans. Lou
  10. Might also consider adding some tabs or wings to the bumper guard so they - the wings would reach to the old holes- then drill them and mount that way-after all I doubt that the thing ever really protected much anyway. On a 50 i saw the guard was smashed and it got the grille!! So to me they are neat but just ornaments and so i would mount it some way without drilling new holes Lou
  11. Here is my 2 tone p 15 most folks really like it. I painted a 48 packard like that and it turned out great- black bottom silver top
  12. I used to replace anything that was difficult to get at. However, the deteriorating quality of new parts has changed that. I put in 2 new throw outs in my 46 then went back and put the original back in!!!! the only test I am aware of is- was it OK before ? and when you hold it and twist it any rough spots as u turn it? if running OK when it was taken out and no rough spots I would put it back in myself.
  13. i GOT A REARE END FROM SUPPOSEDLY AN S 10 IT IS AOBUT 10- INCHES NARROWER
  14. Thanks for the info Does anyone have any idea what in the world they might fiy? or should i squeeze them in a vice and get them right??
  15. I was having hard time getting clips fo the fender mouldings I bought off e bay as 46-48 frot fender mouldings. They ae wider than on my 2 door or coupe!! And the spear end is different!! Can anyone tell me the numbers fro the mouldings on the convert and the sedan? I am betting they are different- i measure the ones on my convert and they are about 3/8 inch wider than others. Anyone know for sure? Lou
  16. I talked to restoration specalties- they do not have them
  17. I have had no luck finding front fender clips that attachthe s steel mouldings. Or anyone that might have some? Anyone used some other clip - that worked? Lou
  18. Hobbyist and I bet you can rely onwhat hes says about a car-read his ads very candid
  19. If I were closer and had no car I would jump on this in a hearbeat- you cannot go wrong here if under 5 grand. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/48-DeSoto-Suburban-RARE-EARLY-WAGON-LOOK_W0QQitemZ330078989487QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6190QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
  20. The headlight switch was acting up on my son's mustang. My friend who runs the electrical shop told me what was causing the problem before he looked at it. He said - put halogen lights in it right? I sad yes. He said 40 + year old switches especially 12 were not built for that load. I could buy a new switch for 130 bucks or install the 8 buck relay and keep the old switch!! So now when u pull on the headlights on the mustang it just trips the relay and then u are running lights direct from battery. Very slick indeed. I am a little suspect on my Dodge- the circuit breaker went out once- so I am going to put a relay on the firewall and use the switch to just work the relay. The relay also has its own fusees. I did find the problem loose -primary wire-fixed that, it works fine but I just would rather have the main heavy pull outside under the hood.
  21. I have over 15 older cars now. I have sold several and bought several AND DECLINED MANY MORE. Every car I have bought in the last 10 years I have asked the owner for the prior owners' name and address. If he does not remember Iforget it . If you got a bill of sale how could u not know the owners' name? So simply contact the prior owner. If He is dead or unavailable see if you can fine a member of this family. Ask them who were his automotive friends- contact them. For I I were gone and u were buying from my estate they would tell u about several of my buddies who would know about the car.. Believe me if someone is putting obstacles in your way to find the prior owner It ain't because the car is perfect and all is well!! I have all that info on each car I have so if I sell one u get the info in the folder - whatever I have./ Also, am I wrong? Isn't that head bolt missing rather serious? I have never seen an engine well with even just tight head bolts. I have one engine that blew a head gasket because (Found out) the head had not been torqued the second time after its re-installation. Lou
  22. Take a close look at the engine- The first head bolt is missing!! I would be very wary of this engine until after I had checked it out completely. Including pilling the head and having it checked by a machine shop It could be warped by having no head bolt installed. Also that would warn me about the fact that someone had gone inside this engine AND DID NOT KNOW HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER. Why- because if the had done it right and torqued the head He would have know about the bolt missing- Be cautious Lou
  23. I have had over 20 older cars in the last 20 years. I have about 14 in the barns now. I have started on them from dragged out of a barn to nearly original running condition. In my opinion, buy the best condition car u can- Every Time I do that I come out way ahead in money and time spent. Example: D24 4 door in picture I now own : $ 4,000-cost delivered and running well except bad brakes- 19.00 fix. Good engine and trans all running gear etc in seats doors good $ 1500 Fair to good paint job $ 900 new new headliner, wind lace hand holders, visors. ( good interior is about 3000) $ 400 new window glass. $ 600 mscl items- knobs,carb, points etc. $ 650 rebuilt front end complete.(Includes tie rod ends steering box kit k-pins and bushings. I did all the work that is parts cost) All totaled I probably have $8,500-$9,500 in the car plus my labor . It is an excellent car however I will be lucky to get $7500 for it. By the way I am going to be selling it soon. I can see about $6,000 worth of work on your prospective car now. Paint- 2,500, brakes 600( ALWAYS assume brakes are bad and in need of repair on all older cars. Never,Never take anyones word they are OK- your life depends on them!!) finish interior 1,500( remember new wood grained dash and window molding are about 2,000 unless u do it yourself and u can. I also suspect the steering wheel is shot has cover on it- as is the steering itself and u can expect to spend 200 to 700 on tires- depending on if u go with regular radials or wide whites . Have no fear I have a spare I will sell you for 25. The hard parts to find in good shape are going to be the exterior moldings and clips- I will be making my own clips of the fender molding on my 48 taxi. So that is what I think and have experienced on buying a decent drivable car to get it up to great looking and running driver quality. Same thing on a 50 Plymouth 49 caddy , 48 ford etc. I bought a mint 46 Plymouth coupe for 7500 and have done nothing to it- however I have receipts of over $8,500 worth of parts and labor done in 1994! Not counting cost of car and drive train repair. As far as ease of working on the car. I believe any car in the 40 thru 65 zone are great cars for the hands on hobbyist. A basic $200 (on sale)set of craftsman tools will enable anyone to do 90 o/o of the work on these cars. Tools plus a manual and this site is all u need. Hope u get it u will love these cars.
  24. Don's point is well taken, but I do share my limited knowledge and experience because many mechanics do not know about these older cars and we do. It can help him and you How You ? Well, if you find the carb float is wrong or he put it on with rtv or something other than gasket with small amount of sealer or needle valve is missing you will need to decide if you want to have him do any other work. After all, he implied by taking your job he knew what he was doing. But he might not that will be your call. I am presuming you have a shop manual- If not get one- best 25 bucks u will ever spend Lou
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