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Lou Earle

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Everything posted by Lou Earle

  1. I been knowing this guy for years- watch him close- he is a CLOSET ford man!!! Met him years ago- then he was hiding out in Fla having fled Yankee land!!! Said he was retired- likely story-Well anyway he was not working But he was driving a ford in broad daylight for everyone to see. I noticed his neighbors in Fla did not come out to greet him when he came home- could have been the 100 plus temp. I don't know for sure. I do know one thing for sure- he knows where there is a great eaery in the Fla west coast area that has the best salad dressing in the world. Now he claims he is in NC- likely story- might even be true but I will bet the farm he is near water- he is just that kind of guy- he just cannot help it. I am just gonna have to wait and see if he is a true blue plym fan or a cheap impostor. Anyway I am not going to mount a crusade to ban him- he ain't quite that bad. But I were you guys I would watch him close he might shift to Buick's and leave us in the dust. Bout time you realized,Gillette, that rel men and women drive real cars Chrysler products- after all Henry had to buy Walter's transmission to get his cars to run. And besides- how come it took Henry 8 cyls to produce 85 hp and plym just 6 to get 100 and- who won the Dayona 50 in 1950 - sure weren't a ford. Good to know your still alive and can take some jesting Lou
  2. This ilette alvin guy- got to watch him close

    Hope you got that brake mess cleard up
  3. Well ordered floor pans on Bay from classic2current. Man do they suck. Holes in wrong place even the brake aces on floor on 50 is turned wrong? Probably will salvage some of my loss by usning them as patches of old ones. Does anyone know where to get good pans for a 50 and 54 plym front driveers side? Also anyone know what happened to plymouth doctor? cannot find # or Ip addres that works Lou
  4. Beware and what happened to Plymouthdoctor?

    got a 50 drivers dide insert from him - perfect fit hard if not impossible to tell from nos. cost 225 including shipping- worth every penny Lou
  5. anyone got any tips on removingfloor board from 50 and 54 plymouth? what about gas pedal and its linkage how do you do it? thanks Lou
  6. Brake pedal not return fully

    On my 54 station wagon the brake pedal was not returning fully after applying them. Went in and re furbished the front wheel cyls(one was leaking some) re adjusted all 4 wheels bled brakes and tried out. At first thee was some slight pulling to one side but that has Ironed out. But the brakes go way down when pressed now and then you can pump them up. BUT the pedal does not return to its full released position-like it is binding but it is not -was well greased and cleaned at shaft. So anyone got any ideas- re bleed? bad master? thanks Lou
  7. rust prevention

    I am sure the pour 15 is great as are many other products. My experience is that for ease of preparation application and rust prevention plain old rustolieum rusty metal prime(red) followed by rustolieum paint- any color- is hard to beat and very economical. 8 years ago I wire brushed off a model a frame by hand then applied the rusty metal primer by brush then gloss black by brush. I has sat out in my yard since then no protection against wind rain snow sun etc. It has not blistered cracked - it has faded some but as a barrier coating it has worked well. And at less than 10 bucks a quart it is is areal bargain. As far as running into seams cracks just thin it a bit and apply 2 coats. The first thing I do when I get an old car is remove the carpet or old horsehair matting clean and vacuum the steel floor and apply rustolieum as above - even if I plan on patching the floor some way- that application just pus an end to advancing rust. Some of my cars have e had that application on them for 15 to 20 years and ain't rusted yet. I just got a 50 plymouth station wagon from a barn- washed it off cleaned it with gasoline then sprayed it with red rustolieum then black semi gloss. now I can go back and remove dents cut out rust- very little then re prime at what cost- about 2 or 3 bucks. Works for me Have 2 other cars in rusty metal primer ben outside several years adn no signs of rusting. Just my thoughts Lou
  8. Will JB Weld fix it?

    Also rather than go to 1/2inch if JB fails I have repaired an old block by going one nothc up using metric I has worked for 20 years
  9. Well here it is vicious boat

    Been puttering around with boats lately. Have discovered several things 1 not nearly as expensive as cars 2 if you stick to old pre 1965 or so 40 hp and les engines they are VERY reliable especially Johnson eventide and gale- they did not change 35 and 40 hp engine for about 15 years. 3 uses points (dual) and coils and magneto 4 carb is easy to rebuild- one barrel easier than an A model. 5 cables for shifters can usually be cleaned oiled and revived 6 steering is usually very easy to rebuild-the old cable spring system is very safe and reliable new cable is available at almost all hardware stores 7 parts are very easy to find actually napa has points carb Kit condensers etc. here are a few pics of my just finished 54 feathercraft all aluminum and the 57 blue star made for and sold by sears. the feathercraft has a 35 hp evinrude1959 star has a 61 40 hp they are a lot of fun to work on now lets see if they are fun on water!! By buying older "junk " boats and motors I put these 2 together for less than 2 grand each- including everything like tire and bearing new lights or old if usable.
  10. Well here it is vicious boat

    The second red one is a blue star made for and sold by sears. I actually have a redfish 17 footer that I am starting on now
  11. Well here it is vicious boat

    Not aware of anyone making it illegal but it can be hazardous if not set up right. The securing of the springs and the tension on them is critical. All the set ups I read about recommended no more than 80hp on that steering system. another problem is stretching when you tilt the motor up. You should disconnect the cables from the motor before you tilt or have longer springs- some times double them up. I appreciate the warning. Does anyone have any suggestions on how ti rig a kill switch on a magneto engine? thanks Lou
  12. Brake Issues

    As far a brake shoe contamination is concerned- if the contamination is recent then you could take lacquer thinner or carb cleaner and spray the shoe and wipe it off then heat it with a torch some - not to on fire but where the fluid still in or on the shoe will smoke and be evaporated. I have done this several time with on ill effects. Also find a place that re lines turk and bus brakes. they can usually reline the shoes for you at about 10 bucks a shoe- either glued or riveted. Also remember to tell the guy regular or over sized(thicker) shoe- I always get regular because there is plenty of adjustment in Plymouth's. As to the drum that same shop can probably turn the drum. Lou
  13. oil pressure

    probably the oil pressure or release spring is keeping pressure high at idle. Think oil should be around 10 to 20 lbs at idle and 40 to 50 at running speed. My 50 did same thing new oil spring and cleaning plunger fixed ti, Lou
  14. Traced the problem of gas gage to the sending unit- anyone know where I can get one or a replacement 50 Plymouth single wire? Why named my 50 Fastback Fireball 1- 1-The paint is Nason Fireball red- 2The car is now Fireball red 3-In 1950 The year of the First Southern 500 at Darlington speedway was run (expected a crowd of 5,000 fans-25,000 showed up-) and won by Johnny Mantz in Guess what- A 1950 Plymouth fastback!! He won because he ran truck tires and had very few blowouts on the track. The Lincoln in the race has 21 blowouts in 2200 miles and dropped out. The original car is on display at Darlington speedway. The above information from article by Smokey Yunick in Hot Rod September 90 issue [/img]
  15. Bob T asked me what I did to get an old engine started Here is what I sent him - a method i am now using and it has worked well on about 4 engines What I would do: DO NOT CRANK 1 drain oil 2 put about 3 quarts kerosene or diesel in the oil pan 3 blow air down the oil fill and dipstick tube with long rod on your air blower from compressor to agitate the liquid. This should loosen up and put in suspension any gunk that might be around oil pick up 4 drain and then add 4 quarts or 5 to the oil pan. 5 remove plugs. 6 go to farm supply and get big hypodermic syringe and needle. Bend the needle to 1/2 moon shape 7 fill syringe with marvel mystery oil and then insert it too the plug hole aiming the needle to the center of the engine ans squirt some oil in the cylinder You should be able to get most but not all,because the intake valve Will be open on a couple and blocking your ability to get the syringe in. then bump it with the starter to just move it some so you can complete putting oil in the cyls. Let it sit a bit overnight is best 8 with the plugs out try and crank or turn it over - watch your oil pressure and when the gage starts moving you have gotten oil to the main and rod bearings and ready to start. 9 then hook an electric fuel pump pumping form a gallon can, to the carb and also pour some gas into the carb and try and fire it up. Of course I put in new plugs auto lite 45r- points and condenser but not new wires- why not because I can spend that money later if it is a good engine and I have Had 50 + year old wires work just fine. If it starts up and is good I would then drop the pan and clean it and then change the filter because u are getting ready to rock and roll As to sea foam If i get the car going then I put a gallon of gas and about 10 ozs of sea foam in a jug and run the car for about an 1/2 hour making sure it get hot. I have saved many a carb rebuild buy doing this. Also I would grease the water pump well before starting it is probably fine and this pre greasing can prevent pre mature wear. Anything else I can help you with? Anyone else got Any other ideas on how to get the flattie started and running? Lou
  16. switch - switch - switch

    Also you can remove the wires- then with test licht check and see if the hot wire is hot- then attach to brake solenoid press brake pedal tne use test light to see it power is now on the output post-= if it is you then know the problem is in the line from brake solenoid to the light itself. Lou
  17. Found this little beauty rotting away in a driveway in Macon GA got boat and trailer for 200 painted trailer and bottom of boat with rustolieum off white and gloss white with hardener.came out great then had local talented painter bas/clear coat the top - Came out beautiful. Found used 1963?? 40 hp Johnson rebuilt or freshened it up for 200 and runs good- will get seats in - bench cut from plywood- this week then off to the river!!!! the steering wheel is a curtiss wright vintage nos 57 wheel- great when a plan come together. The car ain't bad either!!! The final plan install hitch on this and then ready with color matched boat!! Lou
  18. 230 problems

    No.
  19. Never seen this option?

    Marvel I believe still sells them- says so on a 10 0r 15 yo can I have. Alas I could not find them for sale on net Many police cars taxi's etc used them as top oilers in the 50's and 60's. I actually talked to a taxi co in NJ it the 80's that was still using them and swore by them. They claimed it really reduced their engine maintenance costs-nearly eliminated doing valve jobs- and ring jobs were reduced a lot. I also know a man in Hazlehurst ga who adds a qt. of oil to every tank of gas in his chevy van- it has 400+ thousand on the engine and still going- no wrench on motor at all burns qt oil now about every 1500 miles. I really do not think it is snake oil or voodo- to much favorable experience- Here is marvel home page- do not think they sell th oilers anymore. I do run oil in my 60 desoto gas- I am hoping it will delay or avoid a valve job in my 383 Lou update I just found another company that makes an inverse oiler- and it still has adaptor plates for sale! Think I will get acouple and install on DEsoto and my 49 plym daily driver here is site http://www.ampcolubes.com/index.php?content=products
  20. On my 34 200 ci rebuilt 34 engine I discovered a crack running from the water neck down to the next to last head bolt on drivers side. the machine had tried to preen it shut but it was leaking and weeping. used wire brush on drill to remove ALL paint old JB weld patch, removed water neck and went to work. got the head shinny clean a path about 1 inch wide with the crack in the middle. The took cutting wheel and cut the crack a bit deeper and wider. Next I heated the head with a propane torch to just under red hot. Mixed up the JB weld and put it on with a nail and a few minutes spread it with finger- very fast!!! I could see where the JB was going into the groove I cut- there was a depression on top of the JB clearly indicating where it was going down the crack and groove I cut. When it got tacky grabbed a hand full of fine sand / dirt and sprinkled it on the patch. Left it alone for 36 hours. Brushed off the sand and have nice gritty - not slick - surface like the head. Ran it for 20 minutes and no weeping - by block or me - no leaks - I think I got it this time. I did this on a friends Model a engine 20 years ago - that patch was still holding after he died . Both the model A and the 34 are non pressurized so I think it Will hold for - what 25 years- I am 67 go figure- my son or someone else can do it again in 2035. Lou PS If it does not hold Tim Will use brass rod and Braise that sucker!!
  21. Cracked head and JB weld to the rescue

    That is my understanding to. But the crack went from the inner edge of the water outlet to the next to last head bolt so no need to drill it already ahd split as far as it could go
  22. Cracked head and JB weld to the rescue

    I have filled a bunch of cracked steering wheels with it- takes about 3 layers but not had a patch come loose yet
  23. MOPAR 501/551 heater?

    that is what is in my 49. My opinion get a 6 volt heater like arvin and install inside car - a lot easier- e bay has them all the time I mihght have one that would work Lou
  24. flex fans vs stock fans

    YOUR 53 SHOULD HAVE A SHROUD- COVERING ABOUT 1/2 THE FAN AREA. Also if your 12 volt put a pusher fan in front of a/c or radiator core. FYI my 48 runs a 6v gen an a/c compressor and a 12 v alternator and has never gotten over 195 or so in traffic- I have turned on the 12 fv fan then and cooled right down.
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