Lou Earle

No I put one in my 46 coupe

I will be installing in a 50 fastback. looking at clearances now onthe floorplan - will i need to cut pan? How did you get thel Old bushing out and the new one in? I plan to use the orginal throwout or clutch release bearing and housing by milling the sleve onthe s-10 trans and abit of milling on the bearing housing - Do yu have better plan. That way I believe I can use the 50 throw out fork. Also how did you mate to the driveshaft? Any help greatly apreciated Lou

Did you do it -the swap or transmission with engine in car?? Please gvie update I am getting ready to do it .

how many ozs of glass cleaner do you take to clear blurred vision? I used to drik listerine or scope and got blurred vision. !!!

I am looking at putting a t/5 overdrive transmission from s10 Chevy Pu Have the adapter kit- new bushing plate to mate trans to bell housing etc. Question is has anyone changed the clutch and input shaft bushing with the motor still in the car?? This is a 50 Plymouth Thanks Lou

Was having brake chatter on my 50 red plym. Pulled the front drums-The were worn or turned to 65 and 75 thousand ts over respectively. Replace with 51/52 drums( they do work on 50) from old 4 door Tims sole d em a few years back as a parts car. Turned out the drums were never turned on parts car- had to turn them 15 to get them on with to oversize new shoes that were on the 50 . All chatter gone- I think that drums turned beyond tolerance- 40 thou will cause chattering - that is the only explanation I could find- anyone had similar experience? Lou

Gas gage on red 50 was not registering but when hooked the sending unit to ground it shot to full. car is now 12 volts-I had put a reducer in line but never worked . Checked everything Tim and I spent hours on phone trying to figure it out Put in we gage- 2 of them - both no good-the thin I mean THIN wire on the back from coils were severed from the power supply post. Well out of desperation I did the one thing I hate to do- read the manual- no help. But then on the wiring diagram I notice power went to heater switch and defroster switch from gas gage- that meant 3 wires needed to be on that post originally- so it had to be a post and nut situation not a single wire plug in. But the gage had a single wire plug in and a post and guess what the #$@#$@%@ was wired backwards!!! re installed the old gage and sending unit and works fine. Anyone want 2 NOS (Tim says that stands for nasty old S$@t!) that don't work very cheap!!?? Lesson learned - AGAIN- check the simplest first!! It costs a lot less. Lou

Dublin Georgia

Is that an anti siphon valve or just a filter??-looks just like the filter on mine

thanks blueskies just ordered 2 from speedway 18 bucks each

Sounds to me like you ol codgers are a bit incontinent... I resent that- I will discuss thsi later - got to go pee now

Has anyone converted their car 50 or later to 12 volts and run the fuel gage on 12 volts.? Inquiring (and ignorant) minds what to know. I will be getting a new gage and don't want to mess it up. I have a resistor in line I got from Ebay but oddly when I got the car the gage was running on 12 volts and was fine then went haywire put a resistor in line did not revive it so been playing with other options and got a new gage on the way. Help - also if you converted to 12 v and used a resistor or what ever what one/ Thanks Lou

I am getting tired of my mish mash of bits - mostly old and worn out and not great to begin with. So, based on your experience or experience of others you know about,(and staying at Holiday Inn is not experience with drill bits- brain surgery- maybe- but not drills).Who makes of sell a very good set of twist drills fro metal. there seems to be a lot of hype out there and so I am looking for favorable impressions of you guys.

I run diamond back 16 inch radials on coupe, off the shelf radials on cab, 50 Plymouth and I do not have tubes in any of them. I believer I used truck stems because of some wear on the hole but I have no problem except with one tire loosing air - about 5 Pound a month. I cannot hurt to run tubes but why do it? Lou

The black soot can be caused by at least 2 things-improper timing- firing to late or early and therefore not all gas burned effectively- check plus if sooty it can be timing and /or restrictive air filter - I had that on a model A and Don had it on his big block in Plymouth- remove air cleaner and run 5 or so miles if clears up you have found the problem. These in my experience are the most common causes Lou

"That is correct. Smoke on acceleration would be rings" Don- or anyone can you all explain how that works- I thought that deceleration caused back pressure and therefore sucked oil past the rings- I was told that years ago - is that wrong? Lou

Why don't you try mixing and running a pint of sea foam to about 6 gallons of gas or marvel mystery oil and running it some - it acts as a top lubricant that way might help some cannot hurt. Remember first rule of mechanics,Doctor and Attorneys - first - do no harm. 2nd rule of mechanics -if your are sure it is a carb or fuel problem check your ignition!! Lou

Just remember for some reason if you constantly run these engines 55-60 for sustained time even a new engine will burn a quart every 300 miles. Old Tom McCall even mentioned this in a popular mechanics article on the 49/50 station wagon he took from NY to Fla. You mention 100 lbs across board so if your burning a quart every 200 and running 55-60 a lot that might be normal. If I run 60/65 with no overdrive in mine it burns oil - about a quart every 300 just like Tom said in the 50's Lou

I think a lot of the hard starting problems have had are often related to a weak battery. We drive around town a bit - on off 2 3 times draw the already weak battery down and then when we go to start there is very little juice left to fire the ignition. I have found that a 2 2 amp automatic charger hooked up overnight really makes a difference. Every time I hit these won't start issue I have almost always found it to be a weak battery problem. Lou

Was someone looking for one - here are 2on ebay Item #250241380745 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1946-1951-DODGE-DESOTO-PLYMOUTH-Parts-1947-48-49-50-51_W0QQitemZ250241380745QQihZ015QQcategoryZ140682QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Your engien is ready [/img] [/img]

I went to the electra sol dis washing detergent in the 90's when the counter man at a very good parts store told me they had pretty much quit selling radiator cleaners because they ha been so radically altered as to become more or less useless. They might have improved but I find electra sol has worked for me I just put it in - a cup run it for whatever - minimum of 20 minutes- and drain the re fill with water run a few minutes and drain the re fill with antifreeze/water mixture. By the way engine sluggish carbon maybe built up due to never really blowing it out on long distance drive? Try 8 oz. water into the carb spured slowly never shaken- Talk to Tim about that. Lou

What I do - I am a member of AA and I just call local AA group and ask someone if he knows anyone who knows something about cars-old. I have always found someone in the town. I tell them I will make a contribution to their club if he will report back to me on the car- has worked every time I would suggest calling a church with which u are affiliated, member of model A club Mustang club just any club and offer a contribution if someone will take a look for you Works for me Lou

I run the diswashing electra sol in the rad for 10 to 20 miles. Once ran it fro a week and did not notice any improvement in the cleaning ability.

is this for the bumper boltsthey might tell u they don't have them but they do yes