Lou Earle

I got to thinking about the heater location of the return and intake hoses. Think About it. One hose is at the back of the block ant one of the furtherest points from the cool water from the radiator as is the temp Gage. Also, water returning to the radiator is forced up and into the radiator from what ? the cooler water( remember the water pump is connected to the lower radiator hose) being pushed thru the head by the pump. So does it make sense that the designers of the heater would have colder water going thru it or get water from the hot source and return it to the cooler? I am going to measure the temp on both hoses by hand and by the Lazar temp Gage. Which one you want to bet on is the return hose? I bet it is the one from heater to above water pump. Lou

I thought the rear heater attachment was for water flowing to the heater and the front was the return to the system. Am I wrong?/ Is it that the front attachment it the beginning and the rear is the return? Lou

on the front mount on my 34- basically the same as the 48 etc when it came apart. I ground off the top studs leading and going thru the steel front mount then clamped it all together and drilled thru top plate on the rubber thru the rubber and thru the lower mount plate that gave me a straight shot thru all. I then put bolts thru and welded them to the mount. Then when I pt the mount on the bracket on the motor and it works just fine Lou

pic of my new heater/temp gauge hook up[/img]

hope this woerks

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cannot find the infpo

could not get the rear plug out--Sooo made another hole!!! Lou http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/redpen42/MVC-011S.jpg[/img]

Anyone got any suggestions on removing the plugs in the water by pass connection and the block so I can install fitting and connect the hoses?/ Have wire brushed the threads(exposed) to remove paint then shot it with pb blaster- still will not budge- Think it would help if I ran engine and got it hot? Lou

No but I stayed at a express inn last night !!!!!!!!!!1 will probably get the same results that you get by sending the money!!!!! By the way some princess in Mnasfujweprow wants me to marry her because her uncle's will says she gets millions if she marries an American Lou

Installing a 6 volt tropic air(Old but very good) heater in my 48 4 door cab. Question will the variable speed control knobs sold today at auto store work ok on 6 volt? Lou

On A model Fords many folks put STP intheir trans and rear ends it really does seem to quiet them down some and maks shifting a non syncro. trans better. Of course these people are in the south mostly- So I was wondering if anyone does that with their plyms or dodges? Or what other addativies does anyone use in trans or rear? I have heard that Lucas products are good Lou

I am told that about 15 to 20 percent of an engines ability to dissipate heat is from the block itself being exposed to the air. Powder coating could drastically inhibit that process. I have actually seen engines with 5 or 6 coats of paint heat up above normal . This is especially true in early flathead fords. That is why you will not see an original paint on an engine with primer underneath. Lou

Big block Ford gaskets of the 60 s blew head gaskets all the time until someone discovered alunimum spray paint!! They used that onthe gasket and the head as a sealer. Let it get tacky and put gasket and head on and torque her down. Solved that problen on the Ford. I do the same thing with all my gaskets and not had a problem Lou

Yes it is a big job to take the steering colum out. Either the whole unit or just the tube. But just the tube and gearshift would be easier. On a convertable you ,I think< can remove the tubve and gearshift from inside the car. O a a closed car u usuall rip the headliner when removing the tube inside the car. Lou

George Asche had me run 30 weight non detergent for 100 miles then drain. then regular 30 detergent until broken in. How do you know broken in? watch your fan after heating up- turn engine off if it does not kick back it is NOT broken in. When it kicks back ( usually around 1200 miles) it is broken in. Then run detergent-your choice. As to the by pass. It does an adequate job and in fact large truck have a bypass filter in addition to the regular one. Why? they run a very fine filter in them to catch the smallest particles. Why because it is slower than regular full flow filter, The Amsoil site has some info on this. As a practical matter the by pass works well if you drive and the oil pressure e is over 30? or some level. George Asche has a 51 or 52 he has driven almost 300 thous using by pass filter and synthetic oil - he says he is going to rebuild it soon- smoke a little now!!! In A model fords we make our own bearings and those engines are lasting 100 thous now before burn any oil. And with NO filter the vast majority run multi weight and high detergent oil . If your really concerned about particles in the oil change it every 1000 miles like the book says. On my 48 Plymouth I had in 57 yes 57 it had over 100 thous when I got it - (my mother drove it on dirt roads and a public health nurse in Va.) It Burne a quart every 3 to 400 miles- but I note the new 52 wagon Tom McCall tested in 52 burned a quart every 330 when he drove it over 60. I used used motor oil in that car and my later52 and later 54 for untold miles and years. not good or bad just did. No problems except with my slender pocketbook - that was why used oil!!I ragged the hell out of that 48 - Did you know you can go to 50 in second gear?? Never any engien problems in any - but Did you know u could get a used trans or rear end for 10 bucks then? When all the dust settles it is quite simple-- these engines will last forever if treated and serviced properly with the better oils of today even with the by pass system. And remember the by pass system was an option early on!!! but if worried convert to full flow or change oil a lot. Lou

got a 41 I will be rebuilding and wondering it the rear end dimensions are the same so that a whole swap would work drum to drum? Lou

Well the Taxi got home fine but on way over and back I notice a slight jerkiness or missing at over 45. I changed points- badly worn- plugs very good-clean light tan color gaped at 35- But problem persisted UNTIL I pulled the choke out a bit then ceased and ran great. I have installed a new hose to the wiper-no leaks there I do not think. So what have I got? Maybe air creeping in somewhere? Thu throttle ? Help Lou